Copyright 2005 - BillaVista Offroad Tech
(click any pic to enlarge)
carrier bearings from a differential is a real bear of a job at the best
of times - and without the proper tools it's almost impossible to do without
damaging the bearings in the process.
This can be frustrating if
you're installing new gears or a new carrier but plan to re-use bearings
that are in good shape.
Worse - imagine you've just
set up the gears in a Dana axle and are running a final pattern and backlash
check after having replaced the set-up bearings with the new bearings.
What are you going to do if you find you need to adjust the backlash by
changing the shims under the carrier bearings?
You have two
One - you can ignore the problem,
and leave the setup less than optimal. I can tell you from experience
that this is a mighty tempting option after a long day of setting, checking,
and re-setting a gear set. Obviously this isn't the smart option though.
Two - you can pull the new
bearings off the carrier and do the job right. The problem is - how do
you get the new bearings off without causing them any damage?
Cheap, wobbly, 2-leg pullers,
pry-bars, chisels, etc. may be fine for getting off old bearings you plan
to replace - but they fully suck at removing a new bearing without damaging
having the right tool really helps - not only to enable you to remove
the bearings without damaging them - but also to allow you to do so without
damaging the carrier - especially important if you're working with an
There are some carriers that,
for various reasons, (either they have no reliefs cut in the carrier beneath
the carrier bearing seat, or they are too small to actually allow a leg-puller
to grip anything) make it virtually impossible to get the carrier bearings
off without a clamshell puller.
Because of the seal
housing between the bearing and carrier, the ARB 14-bolt Air Locker is
just such an example, as can be seen in the pic at left.
these situations, and also for speed, ease, and just the thrill of having
and using the right tool for the job, I recently swore off my usual yank-pound-hammer-and-curse
method to check out the Yukon Clamshell Bearing Puller from Randy's Ring
It's a big, beefy
tool, as can be seen from these pics, that comes nicely painted in bright
colours and with a dandy little stand/carrier to hold all the pieces together
when not in use.
Best of all - it is really
simple to use.
components of the tool are:
Main puller body
Using the Tool
procedure for using the tool I shall illustrate here depicts the removal
of a carrier bearing from a stock 14-bolt carrier. However, the procedure
is the same for any carrier.
The first step is
to MAKE SURE the race is in place on the bearing. If you leave the race
off and attempt to remove the bearing with this tool you will damage the
Note the still-installed
inner-part of a destroyed bearing on the bottom journal of the carrier
in this pic - evidence of my handiwork before I decided to use the Yukon
Next, set the
plug in place by inserting one end into the carrier bearing journal so
that one of its shoulders (red arrows) butts up against the outside end
of the journal.
The plug has different diameters
and shoulders machined into it for use with different carriers.
Here I am test
fitting the plug in the 14-bolt carrier. Note the gap between the plug
shoulder and the end of the bearing journal (red arrow) - this is WRONG.
The shoulder must butt up against the end of the bearing journal. If it
does not, when you use the tool, you will force the plug into the splines
of the carrier's side gears.
For the 14-bolt, you must place
the "shorter" end of the plug into the carrier (180 degrees
from what is shown i this pic).
the centre bolt generously with anti-seize. This is critical and must
be performed every time you use the puller - you're going to be applying
some serious force to those threads when you pull the bearing. Failure
to do so will result in the centre bolt seizing in the threads of the
main puller body.
main puller body over the plug...
This is how it now
the lower adjusting ring to the left until it seats snugly against the
There are two
sizes of clamshells that fit over the adjuster rings. The large is blue
and the small is red.
Select the clamshell that fits
most tightly around the race without spreading apart where the two halves
Place the first half of the
selected clamshell around the bearing and adjuster rings
then turn the top adjuster ring to the right until it fits tightly against
the top of the clamshell
the adjuster rings are properly adjusted:
The lower ring
should be snug against the race (lower red arrow)
The upper ring should be
tight against the top of the clamshell (upper red arrow); and
should not be able to move up and down on the rings and race
With the rings
properly adjusted, install the other half of the clamshell
slide the retaining ring down over the top of the main puller body and
over the two halves of the clamshell
tighten the grub screw on the retaining ring to secure it in place
With a 1/2"
impact gun, use a 1-7/16" or 36mm socket on the hex head of the centre
bolt and drive the centre pin clockwise into the main puller body.
The centre pin will drive against
the plug, causing the main body, adjuster rings, and clamshell to lift,
which will pull the bearing from its journal.
When the main body
comes loose, simply lift it off the plug. The plug will remain in the carrier
and the bearing will be neatly contained in the clamshell
loosen the grub screw and slide off the retaining ring to find the bearing
removed and resting comfortably in the clamshell.
The Yukon bearing puller is fast
and simple to use and does an excellent job.
I'm sure it won't be long either,
before I'm finding or inventing new uses for this puller. I can easily envision
designing my own custom attachments to use for pulling all sorts of bearing,
pulleys and the like.
Whether you're serious
about setting up gears or just want to spoil yourself - the Yukon Clamshell
Bearing Puller from Randy's Ring & Pinion is a nicely-finished, heavy duty,
quality piece - and it's the right tool for the job!