| |
|
HOME |
|
|
|
The Bull |
The Growing Bull |
The Bull Tail |
The BullPen |
Bull-O-Knee |
| |
|
THE BUILD -
Part 2 |
|
Assembling the Front Axle |
| |
| The basics on the
front axle is that it will be a hybrid 9" high pinion setup that
uses 35 spline axles. The targeted wheel track (from
outside of tire to outside of tire) is 79.5". We are using
the Pro Comp 37 x 13.5 x 17 X-terrain tires mounted on Pro Comp
9" wide beadlocks (locked by TrailReady) and their backspace is
4.25". The outer knuckle assemblies are Chevy Dana 60.
The WMS to WMS (Wheel Mounting Surface) ended up at
- I WILL INSERT ACTUAL
MEASUREMENT ONCE I HAVE IT. The reason we chose to go with this
width is to gain a stable footing with the wider track and at
the same time allow a strong linkarm setup that still allows us
to turn 45 degrees. Any narrower on the axle and we'd lose
turning radius from the tire contacting link arms, frame,
shocks, etc.
The first thing we started with was the
Diamond Axle housing.
It is a fabricated housing with a unique design that allows us
to gain under-axle ground clearance, while being easy to
fabricate around and light weight. The tubes were pressed
in and welded at Diamond by Brian Ellinger and his crew. I
gave him the offset measurements that would stuff the housing on
the far left side of the axle, giving just enough room for the
lower link arms, knuckles, and shocks. The total housing width
including the axle tubes but not the inner C's is
43 1/2". Using the diagram below, the measurements are as
follows: A to B = 22.750" B
to C = 16" C to D = 4.750" Again,
those measurements are the tubes and housing
only...unfortunately, I do not have a photo of the housing with
tubes but not inner C's for the diagram.
With the Dedenbear
inner C welded on, that left 2.5" of tube to work with on the
left side so the inner C takes up 2.250" of the tube when
pressed on. |
|
 |
| Before welding the
inner C's to the axle, the Dedenbear outer knuckles were
assembled and slid on so everything could be checked and
re-checked. We had to be sure there was clearance for
shock travel, link clearance, and steering clearance, just as we
had figured for the tire clearance above. To get things ready
to check, the races and bearings were installed into the
knuckles and the kingpin was installed on the inner C. The
knuckle was then place on the C and bolted together with the
high steer arms. |
|
  |
|
The first thing to check was
turning angle. I do not believe the Ackerman
argument applies in rockcrawling, I had Bender grind the
steering stops on the outer knuckles to a point where the
knuckle could turn 45 degrees in both directions. While
doing that, Bender found he needed to clean a tiny amount of the
front of the inner C off as well to get the 45 degrees I asked
for. We are
NOT worried about the loss of material affecting strength as
these parts are ultra beefy and won't be hurt by the loss of
that small amount of metal. It is hard to see in the
picture but the area where he had to grind on the inner C is
just above the lower horizontal section on the front. It
looks white in this picture. Also, you can see how the
steering stop was ground on the outer knuckle. |
|
 |
|
Next the
BTF high steer arms
were bolted on and you can see they are custom "double" arms
that extend forward and backward from the knuckle. The
Dedenbear knuckles use a 5th high steer bolt to add strength to
an already strong setup so the BTF knuckles will be made to
accommodate that extra bolt. We will
have a trick steering setup on this axle so the double arm will
be
necessary but only on the right side. The left will be
re-done to a rear facing arm before the build is finished. |
|
 |
|
The suspension was then mocked up and we'll cover that in the
Build 6 section. With the suspension mocked, we were able
to choose the pinion angle which is 3 degrees up at ride height
to get the proper driveshaft alignment. With the pinion at the
proper angle we used a digital angle finder to rotate the
knuckles to get the caster angle we were looking for. We
chose 4.5 degrees at ride height because it has worked well for us on our other
crawlers. At full stuff, the angle changes to 7 degrees
because of the link setup chosen to keep the driveshaft pointing
where it should. |
|
 |
|
In the middle of all of this there was a ton of other stuff
going on with the steering and suspension but I'm keeping those
in the other sections of the build story so each step is in its
own category. Trust me, the whole thing is a big puzzle
and you truly cannot do the build "one section at a time."
When everything is custom, it is best to mock everything up at
the same time, never making things permanent with full welds
until the entire picture is complete.
All along through the build, little stylish details are being
added. Check out the diamond cutout Matt drew up and cut
out to accent the Diamond Axle housing! |
|
 |
|
Next, the knuckles were tacked in place at the proper caster,
then the housing removed and placed on a high table for easier
welding. Dallas removed the tacks and brackets for better
access for welding then Dan went to town with his TIG gun. |
|
  |
|
  |
|
  |
|
  |
|
  |
| I'll get into the True Hi 9's, CTM
Axles and U-joints, knuckles and outers soon, so check back
later. Also, I'll come back with the final WMS to WMS
measurement once the outers are installed. |
| |
|
Back to "the GROWING BULL" menu |
|
Forward to the next story - "THE BUILD part 3 (rear end)" |
|
Back to "HOME" |
| |
|
All images and text Copy Right 2006
Blue Torch FabWorks, Inc
Red Bull
RockCrawling Team
Pirate4x4.com
Disclaimer |