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CJ10-A Build

162K views 392 replies 76 participants last post by  spidr 
#1 ·
Well I lucked out and got this CJ10-A for $1100


I after one hell of an ordeal with Government Liquidation and 2 months later, I brought it home on Wednesday. That little turd's heavy! I pulled it home with my dad's F150 since my Cummins dually had gotten a hole in the radiator. It wasn't fun.

The Jeep was contracted for a short period to build aircraft tugs for the US military. They used the cab of the CJ10 built in Australia. Only around 2100 or so were built. It has a "Nissan SD33 inline six, 90 hp 175 lbft of torque, TF727 3sp auto, NP198 transfer locked into low range, Dana 70U rear that is 75" WMS-WMS 4.88 gears with a power lock. sitting on a HD FSJ Waggy frame with a dummy D44 tube housing in the front."(jeepinwilson)


It has a super short wheelbase as is, and very heavy metal "bed" that'll be the first thing to come off.

I'm starting fairly mild on this project since I still have a my mud truck completely tore down. But I couldn't pass on the opportunity to have such a unique crawler.
I'm gonna start by stretching the wheelbase and I'm going to make a bed out of a wrecked CJ7 tub that I'm going to comp cut with Gen Right corner guards.
I'm just going to go spring over for now and run a set of 36" Goodyear R/T IIs on H1s 'cuz I got a bunch of 'em.
I'm basically goin' for this for now:


courtesy of Jeepinwilson

My best bet would probably be to go with a Dana 60 with dually hubs up front to match the rear, but that's just not in the cards for now.

I'm thinkin' about sellin' the 70U and pickin' up a 14 bolt rear and Ford 44 for the front. I'm gonna recenter the H1s for the optimum width and I'll probably be running a 37" tire within a year.

I know I could do good with just a 208 or Dana 300, but I was thinkin' about running a doubler. If I did go doubler I'd want 2 cases with low ranges that aren't really close. That way I have a wider range of ratios.
Since I'm gonna stick with the Nissan Diesel for now, I might need range of gears optimize it's wheelin' ability.

I'm considering runnin' XJ rear leafs to extend the wheelbase, but I'm thinkin' of 4 linking the rear on air shocks or maybe just some TJ coils or something.

I'm really up to suggestions as I'm a total Jeep newb(but I've been searchin' and reading since I saw this thing) and this'll be my first crawler.
 
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#280 · (Edited)
It is still cast, just a different iron type. You still need to preheat, and post heat or it could crack. You might want to look into welding nodular iron.

Here is a little info from a welding site for Nodular Iron.
Nodular Iron is not cast steel; it is cast iron with various alloying materials like Magnesium which cause the excess Carbon to form spheres of nodules rather than long thin flakes.
WRT alloys to use when welding, when Nickel is molten, it can dissolve higher levels of Carbon which are rejected as it cools; this both removes some of the excess carbon from cast iron it is welded to, and provides a shrinkage rate similar to the cast iron. It is also ductile enough to deform during the cooling, preventing stress from building in the joint.
The amount of Chromium and other alloying elements of the filler also need to be considered due to their effect on the hardening properties.
 
#284 ·
The forces applied from a short drop, since they are a sudden stop can create higher forces than you would think. My mother (yeah, osteoporisis at her age) exploded her lower spine by driving into a ditch when a rear wheel came off a semi trailer and hit her truck. Compression fractures in 4 vertabrae.
 
#285 ·
I've got a little while to figure out the harness stuff.
....................

Got my stuff in from DIY4X

As I thought, the springs are a little too long for the stock hangers.



That's with all the weight of the front on the springs. I've already moved one of the front hangers up almost 3". I'll do the other tomorrow.
I hate rivets.

If that isn't enough, I'll move the back hanger back a little.
 
#292 ·
The front spring hangers look like they are in the perfect location...

But with how many bent Main leafs I've seen, and how many friends I have that replace front leafs every year or twice a year. I've kinda just always hated front shackles.

but if you plan to link it later I say run it. It will prevent you from having to go to a long travel slip on the front axle wich is a down side to shackle reversals with the axle wanting to walk away from the T-case.:shaking:

We also stuck with leafs in my buddys cj-10a but We couldnt make a standerd swing shackle work without z-ing the frame up or modifying the tub so we ended up fabbing up spring sliders like the one's Liquid Iron is selling. Wish a four link was in the budget but ehhh... its not a deal breaker and I think it will work good.

How high are the side bolsters on you lowback baja seats? We trying to figure out seat's for the rig... and damn these tub's are Tight... haha :shaking:

Your build is moving along sweet :beer: keep up the good work... we'll be watching... :D
 
#293 ·
Yeah to pull off a shackle reversal, with these springs, I would've had to have the perches really angled to work.

I still have to rotate the pinion up some before I weld in the perches.

The bolster come up around 4". I have a 34" waist and a big ass, and they are fit me nice. If I put on 20 lbs, they'd be a little snug. But now that my knees doin' good I'm gettin' back down to fightin' weight.
 
#294 ·
I got a little work done over the last few days.

I built a headache rack for my tow rig. It's not done.



I got to do a little more to it. I'm gonna build a removable "H" for the back of the bed, so I can haul full sticks of tubing.

I'm tired of having them cut in half and having lots of wasted pieces.

I knocked out the basics of my bed "cage" for the harness and shock mounts.




It'll get some gusseting, and I'm thinking about making the top a shelf I can strap stuff to.
The fuel cell will be built to fit right under it.
I'm going to pick up some 2.5" receiver hitch tubing that will be under the be and it will bolt into it so I can still remove the bed.
 
#295 ·
I ended up trimming the floor just a little more.


I had to really cut out a lot to be able to get the drive train level.

It wasn't really a problem in the stock configuration since it didn't have a front driveshaft.

I could of redone the motor mounts to lower the engine some, but the oil pan already hangs down alot.

I've got a ton of room under the t-cases.


I can clock down the front output several inches and and still have a flat belly.

The rear shaft will be 33.5" long and be angled 31* and it current setup. So I'll probably go with a CV.
The front should be fine without one. It's like 4' long and I can lower the front yoke.

The D.D. flipped twinsticks come out right where the seat'll be. So, I'm gonna have to modify them slightly.
.....................
Here's what I've come up with so far on the 4 link.
Text Line Parallel Design Font


I was planning on doing it dual triangulated but the calculator is showing -8* understeer with that setup.

Any advice or ideas?
 
#296 ·
Ignore the 4 link #'s above. I forgot to account for the height of the tires on the frame's height.
I've got it figure out now, and I'll post that up later.
___________________________

Made a crossmember for the rear links and rear mount doubler.


It bolts in, but it isn't exactly removable. Since it's inside the channel frame, and the frame starts to neck in before and after it.
But I can unbolt it and slide it back like 5" to remove the t-cases.

I clocked down the Dana 300.


I can still run a flat skid. But I won't be able to use the D.D. Machine flipped twinsticks(so they're for sale now). I'll figure something out.

I cut out a piece to fit over the back cover.


I'll mount a poly bushing to it and it'll bolt to the rear crossmember.
 
#298 ·
For those who have been keeping up with this build, I'll fill you in on what's been goin' on:

I was laid off from my day job the last day of Oct. and I've had plenty of free time, but my budget for parts has gone down the crapper.
My audio business has mainly been a way to have extra money for parts and wheeling expenses.

I went to one of the top colleges around here, but with situation around here, I don't have enough experience for any job worth a crap in sales.

I finally said screw it, and decided to start a career path doing something I'll really enjoy.
So, I've started flight school to become a commercial helicopter pilot. Right now I'm in the process of finding a job that's flexible with my flying.

I have a couple things lined out.
__________________

I have made some progress on the Jeep since my last post. I'll post some pics later. I've been busy flying, looking for job, and meeting up with a buddy to get a little bit of machine work done.

It'll be awhile before I can make much progress on the GMC. It's too far away from where I live to work on it often.
 
#300 ·
Sorry I didn't get to take any pics today.

My dog died this afternoon. I know some of you guys will understand that it's a big deal.

She was only 8 months old, she had never gotten into stuff, but while I was making a run to the hardware store she got into a pill bottle.
I got home and she was having a seizure. I took her straight to Animal Hospital, but Houston traffic sucks. Her heart stopped a few minutes after we got there.

My wife and I got her in our first year of marriage; so she's taken it pretty hard.

Funny how a 16 lb. ball of fur grows on ya.
 
#303 ·
Thanks guys.

Azzy, on the board, welded my perches on the front.



I was able to get the front springs to settle around a inch by using a ratchet strap between the axle and frame and holding it down for several days.

I make a mount for the dana 300.


Got my rear disc setup almost done and knocked out a the mounts for the upper links.


With the pinion rolled up for a CV the driveshaft is at 24*. So I'm plannin' on using a straight axle yota front cv.

Got the upper link frame mounts lined out.
 
#304 ·
sorry to hear bout the dog! amazing what they will do when your not looking. there family man just dont talk like we do. hope things will get better soon.


looks like your doing well on the build. keep the pics coming.

as for the job change, good for you, its better to do something you like than something you don't. hell i just did the same thing man. want from framing wood/steel for 18 years to school at wyo tech for diesel and chassis fab. best thing i have ever done! so again good for you.
 
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