ok I needed a hand reamer
mine was too long and shaft a tad to big in diameter to fit a tap t handle.
So 1st I cut it in half, try bandsaw knowing it will dull the blade.........doh! wipped off all the teeth:flipoff2:
4" cutoff wheel, 5 seconds done:smokin:
then I fire up the 135 hobart that been unused last 4 months,tack on an old 1/2 bolt that I had turned the hex head off with my lathe for another project.
! bam done
Since I built it my girlfriend even likes to tag along to the junkyard with me, provided she has coffee and iphone. Both have proven to be quite handy :grinpimp:.
Since I built it my girlfriend even likes to tag along to the junkyard with me, provided she has coffee and iphone. Both have proven to be quite handy :grinpimp:. View attachment 1185178
I had one of the store bought version and found the damn thing would flip on unlevel ground with a load and turning. So I did an axle mod and moved the rear tires out 3-4" on each side. Now everyone borrows the wagon.
Took my shitty craftsman creeper and made it slightly less shitty by adding some shitty roller blade wheel casters from harbor freight. Rolls much better over debris now and is rated for 1,200 pounds :homer:
Check out this hacked up mess I found in a old toolbox I used as a kid...it's caps I made to pressurize a 2-stroke expansion chamber and pop out dents once heated! I'm thinking I was around 12 years old when I built these with a old drill press and some scraps , and from what I remember they worked great.
Those look pretty awesome... how did they clamp on? Looks like a box of jigs that we got from a machine shop auction years and years ago! I'm sure the stuff in there was useful at one time, but god only knows for what! Lol. :laughing:
Constantly changing grinding and wire wheels some days. Only have 1 grinder at work and sometimes being in a tight spot with the wheel jammed on. Took a wrench from ones we have multiples from all the tools we buy and ground it to fit the wire wheel size and welded it to the grinder wrench
Made some chile roasters: both are 10" in diameter (the largest the grill will accomodate) and balanced. One is 15" long and the other is 23" in length.
Then I figured that the wire size plus about .1" for the doubled up wall thickness of the terminals... But they are going to vary greatly by brand, and how heavy duty they are...
The holes I drilled were 9/16, 1/2, 7/16, 3/8, 5/16, and 1/4. I think that will be a wide enough range to work with, yet still close enough together so that if one size doesn't crush it down far enough you can go to the next smaller hole and get the job done. I have the HF hydraulic wire crimper that will do up to about 4 gauge realistically (the dies say up to 1/0, but there's no way in hell they are big enough!) Most of the battery cables I make up are 2/0 or smaller. If you do any 3/0 or 4/0 I would add in a 5/8 and maybe 11/16 just for shits and giggles to make sure I had a big enough option.
FWIW, I liked your answer and I really wish I took more math classes.
Though as you said, experience trumps simulation. Sometimes I don't trust others' experience, though. Still plenty young and that means I'm yet durable enough to be stupid for a while yet.
Lemme know how that works out for ya; hint, hint it's not true.
After being in a bad car accident as a toddler I have almost constant musculoskeletal back pain, no arthritis or bone/connective tissue damage but my back is fucked.
Also broke my wrist and ankle in a motorcycle crash almost two years ago(was 20) and if I over exert either I pay the price with pain for days afterwards. My body isn't nearly as tough as I thought, I'm not invincible, none of us are. Being safe is fawking simple and easy, being lazy about ppe isn't worth the risk.
After looking up a plane of bend bracket to buy, I decided quickly that I was not going to pay $40 for a piece of metal and a screw.
Grabbed a piece of 4"x6" 3/8" plate and went to town on the vertical bandsaw... then using an extra leaf spring center pin I welded the nut on and boom.... done
You guys must have hands that are VERY different from mine... This is what I'd call "hand-made":
I made that one in a JY from a car part using needle-nose & snips. The bolt hook was made with an angle grinder, but the clutch wrench was done with a hand drill & hacksaw.
Certainly not as pretty or impressive as most of the other tools in this thread, but somehow, making a tool from a tool using an automated tool just doesn't seem to fit the title of this thread.
You guys must have hands that are VERY different from mine... This is what I'd call "hand-made":
I made that one in a JY from a car part using needle-nose & snips. The bolt hook was made with an angle grinder, but the clutch wrench was done with a hand drill & hacksaw.
Certainly not as pretty or impressive as most of the other tools in this thread, but somehow, making a tool from a tool using an automated tool just doesn't seem to fit the title of this thread.
Here's a tool I made a few months ago. It's a guide/seal compressor for re-installing a Shaffer riser tensioner shaft on my rig. I was working at the limits on this 20" lathe, so please excuse the excessive tool overhang and poor practice in general :flipoff2:
Made from an 18-3/4" high pressure wellhead seal ring.
And then they figured out that they needed it to be a 2 piece design... :shaking:
How round did that come out? Something that big I would have used full pie jaws so it wouldn't be a six sided circle. Unless the wall is nice and think and your chuck pressulre was pretty low. Even a six jaw chuck has A LOT of power to out of round stuff fairly easy. Did you indicate as you tightened the chuck to see if it was growing at the jaw points? What was your indicator TIR and or dimension tolerance requirements? Just curious.
No offense but this was not a precision job really. Just had to provide a smooth tapered transition from major to minor diameter so the seals would compress and not hang going into the housing. Worked good and now hangs on the wall in the subsea shop until the next tensioner re-seal.
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