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trade saginaw flat taperd 1-ton Pitman for non tapered one?

656 views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  peesalot 
#1 · (Edited)
trade my saginaw flat taperd 1-ton Pitman for your non tapered one?

Figure I'd toss this to the LC forum first..

I need to get a "new" flat 7" long Saginaw pitman arm and figured I'd throw out the idea of trading with someone who is planning on moving to 1-ton TREs.

Does anyone want to trade a stock 7" , non-reamed, flat pitman arm for one already tapered for 1 ton TRE? If you plan on going to 1-ton stuff, this will save you some legwork and money since mine is already set up for you. You wont have to get yours reamed. Mine has the TRE sitting below the pitman arm, tapered on the "flat side" of the arm.

I need to get one which I can ream to run the TRE above the arm, between the pitman and the frame so it won't hit my spring.

The clearances between my steering box and frame as so close that I can't just flip the arm I have over and have it work. I also don't want to reweld the hole in mine and then ream it again.

The caveat is that I need the arm sent to me so I can get it reamed by 4x4 labs and install. Then I will send you mine. You can ask around- I am good for my word. My rig is my daily driver so I need to keep the arm I have on there now until I have a replacement.

Let me know if youre interrested.

cheers-
Dustin
 
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#2 ·
so with a flat arm and the tre below it hits spring.
I can tell you that I got one from parts mike to try exactly what you are doing and....
It was dropped like 3/4 in and reamed top down. The TRE hit frame ( to tall).
I would say it is gonna take an 1.25" drop arm tapered from top to clear.

If a perfectly flat ( and I mean FLAT) one reamed from bottom will work PM me. I will hook you up. I will need any pitman arm you got ( new or old) that you know fits your splines as a donor for the splined part. Or it can be bent to clear a top down TRE .
 
#3 · (Edited)
hey John-
so, the deal with my set up is that I am running Butch Lewis's PS plates (Like Decker and Mudrack also do)- and my PS box sits level with the frame instead of pointing up like the other kits do. This puts my TRE lower than the others. Atleast I think it does, since my pitman arm swings level with the ground instead of in an arc.

My pitman arm is flat on the side its reamed at- the bottom side, and it tapers downard from around 3/4 thick at the box to prob 7/16 at the TRE- ontop. So it looks like it drops a little, but I dont think it does.

The pitman arm is about 2 3/8 inches below the lowest part of the frame. The TRE with the zerk is about 2 1/4, so I will be cutting it really close. AND- thats assuming the next pitman arm I get doesnt seat higher up the splines on the box. If that happens I will be looking at the TRE rubbing the frame, and I will need to heat and bend a little.

Another option is to spend $115 on this bling flat one CustomCruisersfj40 sells - get it reamed by someone like Luke since they dont have the proper reamer, and then heat and bend. This is a more stout way to go, and bending 3/4" flat stock steel will compromise the material less than heating and bending cast. BUT, its alot more money. Which I don't have. http://www.customcruisersfj40.com/powersteering.htm

Gary is super swamped and I don't have time to drive up to Sonoma to get an arm made either.. Unfortunately, and like always, I need a mailorder solution on this.

I'll try to get pics tomorrow. Camera is being finicky and not taking pics. hopefully charging the battery will fix it..

Let me know if youre interrested.

cheers-
Dustin
 
#4 ·
You want mail odred , call parts mike , should be about 40 bucks for an arm that will fit yer splines , flat or close and tapered from top. Do not let him send you a ford arm , they fit the splines wrong and are indexed differently. IMO parts mike is your one stop shop.
 
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