Pirate 4x4 banner

Slammed 2wd Tow Rigs? Is anyone cool enough for this?

13K views 61 replies 36 participants last post by  RustoleumWhite 
#1 ·
Just wondering if there was anyone who was towing with a frame dragger? I did a search, nothin. So lets see some pics/ specs of whatcha got. If there's a similar thread, please post the link. Thanks.

I just bought a 2wd F350 dually crew, looking for some inspiration, cause mine will be on its nuts after EJS:) I'll post a build when it gets crackalakin...
 
#8 ·
I'd be all over it!


Seen a couple of NICE slammed duallys out there... and I like them.



My idea rig would be a 4wd, slammed (as reasonable) with bags for a little more height when I need it.


I like Chevy IFS 1-tons for this fact, the 4x4's are alread almost as low as a 2wd, yet you still have that front axle for when you need it. Ride and drive nice as well until they get old and start to as squeak... then you need to decide new rig or rebuild the front bushings.... not a big fan of huge, lifted tow rigs.


I have plans for my crew-cab IH shortbed to be that way. SUA front D44, or possibly on coils/bags and 4-link. Keep it as low or lower than it is now as a 2wd and make it nice and smooth.

Now if I wheeled at the Hammers or another place what had sketchy access I might rethink my plans, but all the places I have hauled too soo fare have been easily accessible with 4wd really only being use around my yard :rolleyes:.
 
#14 · (Edited)
if I wheeled at the Hammers or another place what had sketchy access I might rethink my plans,
I've been to the Hammers I dunno how many times with a 2WD tow rig.
Gotten stuck in the lakebed once.
Never gotten stuck on the access road.
Been down the access road a couple times with the enclosed (not mine, no beating it up) and a lot with my open trailer. With mine, I don't run enough tongue weight to impact traction much, so I tend to baja it a bit, plus it'll take it. Under threat of dismemberment and then beating-death with my own limbs, no bajaing the enclosed, but it runs enough pin weight typically to where it's not an issue.

That said, I'm debating going 4x4 on the next tow rig, largely because of how much I got stuck this past winter, in my driveway, in the street in front of my house, on the sidewalk, in the parking lot at Safeway... :rolleyes:

I've thought a lot about lowering my Dmax, but I rack up miles too fast on tow rigs, gotta leave 'em mostly alone, try and save some resale value (and some cash outlay).
 
#9 ·
Yeah, I'm gonna get it down as far as I can without C notching. I'll be pulling a 5th w/ 2rigs as soon as my brother buys the trailer. I've taken my old tow, "The Pimp Van" in some sketchy spots with the trailer hooked and loaded. Not worried about it. It forces you to find a good parking spot :)

Lowering your tow rig creates more power via straighter drivelines, this comes with better fuel mileage. Not to metion, your pushing less air.

The other hand, lifting a tow rig is so dumb. It ruins the truck for towing, shity fuel mileage with big tires, more expensive parts, you can't load it cause so high, your girl bitches about getting in it, on and on... its not like your gonna wheel your tow rig anyway, oh and that sweet 20" drop hitch...lol
 
#10 ·
Lowering your tow rig creates more power via straighter drivelines, this comes with better fuel mileage. Not to metion, your pushing less air.
1.) Power increase? I don't see where it would made any real world difference, but I'd be interested in this theory.

2.) Please explain how you figure that you will be pushing less air. The way I see it, the profile of the truck will be no different, just closer to the ground but still have to push through the same air. Come to think of it, air is more dense with lower altitude, so maybe it will be a wash?
 
#11 ·
I've had my 2wd Dodge stuck twice with a trailer behind it... And I've only owned it for 5-6 months.

I wasn't 'really' stuck either time but I had to unload the trailer the first time and unhitch the trailer the second time and come at it from a different angle (think Austin Powers in the hallway, except it was mud pinching me in on one side and a fence on the other).

And I am sure I will get stuck many more time if I keep towing and leaving the pavement.


BUT - I'd wager I get better mileage than a 4x4 version with all other specs being the same. And if I dropped it an inch or two - I bet mileage would increase a touch more (probably no where near enough to pay for the cost of lowering it even if I drive it another 50,000 miles). AND - it is real easy to load the bed, get into/out of (but my arms and legs aren't broken so a higher vehicle would be no 'real' difference).
 
#12 ·
Power increase? You can definetly tell a difference when you decrease a driveline angle. I thought that was common knowledge; you loose rotational force with increased driveline angles (toyota school).

Less air? By lowering, its slightly more aerodynamic when towing. ie; more gradual increase of airflow from low to high. Helps a bit, but its still a brick going down the road.
 
#13 ·
Okay, agreed on the angle, but is it really going to make any real difference going from stock height to say a 4-6inch drop? In stock form the drive shaft angle is pretty good.

The reasons you mentioned seem neglable at very best. Makes me think you are trying to have ammo to get the lowering your truck plan past your wife.

I am putting drop shackles on the back of my truck 2wd PSD this afternoon. For no other reason than I think it will look better sitting closer to level. I too have plans of one day putting a nice bag set up on it for apperance and hopes of a better ride.
 
#16 ·
I think you guys are missing my main point here. That is 2wd slammed duallies are sick! I am on the highway trying to haul-ass more than worrying how close to the trail head I'll park. Yeah it might get stuck, thats why I'm hauling a rockcrawler with a winch, have tire chains, and also why hotels make $(Ex:snowstorm stuck somewhere in the mountains, etc.)!

I just wanted to see if anyone had any pics of their slammed tow rig, cause it looks sweet...
 
#24 ·
I think the only thing that put that superduty out of range in the $100K that he sunk into the interior, audio/visual setup. IMO the rest is doable on a reasonalbe budget, I'm gonna try and prove it.
 
#28 ·
I have had low riders in the past and tried all the arguements.. when it comes down to it, once you have lowered a truck, it becomes a car.
They handle great, they ride pretty nice, but as a truck they become useless. As for driveline angles, I assume you mean after you shorten up the driveshaft so that it doesnt jam into the trans once it has been lowered. Also have to worry about axle hop, unless you plan on 4 linking it, which will suck with payload, trailering etc...
The issues I had with a lowered truck were, frame dragging and high centering, the rear becomes even lighter (great for rain,snow,ice,etc), zippy payload, increased wear of all steering components, just to name a few.
I want another low rider at some point, but I wont try and kid myself into thinking it will still be a truck..
I am thinking a stock 4wd will cost about the same as a lowered 2wd in the long run.
$.02
 
#41 ·
A shop around here pulls a 3 car trailer with theirs. How is axle hop any different than before, unless you're using weaker springs, etc? Frame dragging and high centering? Well no shit, get airbags and realize it's not a 4wd. the rear becomes lighter? How does lowering it remove weight? It sounds like yours wasn't built right, as there are plenty of lowered vehicles without those problems.

That being said, what is the best company for airbags? I'm just looking for helpers, as I want to lower the rear of mine just enough to level it out, and have airbags to keep it level when towing.
 
#30 · (Edited)
It is bagged and body dropped. It has a small 2" notch that is only about a quarter of the frame. People that have had issues with them aren't driving them like lowered vehicles. Yes the truck lays on the frame but it will go up about 8 inches from where it sits. If I got new bags (which I need to do) it would go up 10". The front has tubular arms and drop spindles that's it and it's what I would recommend to anyone trying to get a dually low and maintain strength. The rear is a custom 4 link not the best design (reversed 4) but it works. This is my second bagged dually the 1st had a much beefier suspension and could tow just about anything without problem. This truck I probably wouldn't put my 30' goose behind but I'll tow a single car trailer or my enclosed trailer all day.

I don't think that it turns them into a car at all you just have to adjust your driving style. It's just like rockcrawling you have to look for obstacles ahead of time and realize your limitations. But of course having a custom tow rig brings the same problems that having a custom off-road rig brings. You have to be ready for something crazy to go wrong. But with a toolbox in the bed I could probably handle just about anything that could go wrong with my truck.

Not sure why others had problems with their 4-link but I didn't have problems with either of mine especially in the weight carrying capacity. If you design it to tow it will without a problem. I am not sure how a parallel 4 link would have any problem with any load. As for axle hop put in a traction bar that has travel and it won't hop. My other bagged dually had a 450hp 807 lb/ft torque cummins in it. It didn't hop until I ate up a bushing and once I replaced it there was not a problem.

I am actually going to rework the rear end of that truck in about two months and I can take some more pictures of what's underneath. That truck that is in diesel performance is a static drop truck (no adjustability in the suspension) and would actually be much more difficult to drive offroad.

Just read the posts again teh truck has a tbi 7.4 with some performance mods. The rims are 16" alocas but I'm probably going to 19.5 pretty soon because I had my fenders widened. Think that answers most of the questions.

-ben
 
#32 ·
#34 · (Edited)
none of those vendors are going to get the truck even close to as low as mine. If you want it low you'll have to do a custom setup. kelderman are way overpriced and I have not met anyone with a lowered truck that likes their stuff. Airlift has been doing it forever and makes nice bolt on stuff but it won't get you all that low that other lowered dually pictures is about an inch lower than airride stuff will get you. The roadtamer doesn't lower the truck at all just creates a swing arm rear suspension. The systems will work and are bolt on for the most part but won't get the truck all that low. Granted for most people it's the combination of drivebility and functionality. if you want to have a good compromise of both use one of those systems if you really want the truck to be low you'll have to go custom

For the comment about using my dually as a 1/2 ton truck I have two other duallies so I can pretty much do what I please with mine. Eventually I'd like to parse down the fleet, but I would like to combine some of the trucks and it takes time. I would not hesitate to put a load of gravel in the bed I wouldn't hesitate to tow my 24' enclosed trailer. I have used it as a 1-ton many times, but I don't have to.

-ben
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top