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The dana 70 thread

536K views 739 replies 248 participants last post by  cj8scrambld 
#1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the 70 bible. I don't claim to be the be-all, end-all, expert on these, although I have learned quite a bit about them while assembling this. If you have good info to share, post it up. If you want to know what version of the 70 you have, read this and look for yourself.

I want to add more info about the Super 70 (the 70-1SU?) to this, if you have any or know where to find any good info, please share with the class.

Identification...

The 70 uses (basically) the same cover as a 60 (everyone knows how to spot a 60 right?). The bolt pattern is the same and for all practical purposes the covers are interchangeable. As far as I know the easiest way to tell a 70 from a 60 is the lip on the bottom of the pumpkin. Most stock 70 covers will cover all the way to the bottom of the 70 housing, but the mounting lip is about 1/2" wider than a 60. With a 60 cover on a 70, the thicker lip is very obvious, but with the stocker you may have to look closer.

There are a lot of different versions of the 70, for the most part the parts are pretty interchangeable between them. They came in trucks, vans, and industrial equipment in a wide variety of widths, with bolt patterns ranging from heavy duty 6 lug, the standard 8x6.5”, and up to 10 lug, and have several different spline counts available. Almost all of them are 8 lug, with 35 spline or 32 spline shafts.

The tubes are fatter than a 60, and thicker than a 14 bolt. My 70-B uses 3-9/16" tubes (a 60 front or rear is typically 3-1/8"). The 70-HD has 4" tubes. Tube thickness seems to be ½” on pretty much all of them. The tapered down sections are rolled smaller, so the wall gets thicker in these sections.

Here is a pic of a 70-B, showing both the lip on the bottom (that is a high pinion 60 cover on it), the lip on the top, and the taper down on the tubes (note that I cut the stock brake flanges off). The wider lips are not normally so obvious, because factory 70 covers have wider flanges, so look closely when your axle hunting.

The lip on the bottom can be shaved down for the same ground clearance as a 60. I reccomend using a saw to remove most of the material, then finishing it out with a grinder.



Here's a better view of the taper down...



Variations...

There are several versions of the 70:

*70 (.500" pinion offset, used from late 1950's to '71 according to dana) these would likely have the lower spline counts, least desirable
*70-B (.625" offset, '71-82) Probably the most common version. Generally 35 spline, but checking is the only sure way.
*70-U (.625" offset, '82+) There seems to be less of these than the 70-B. Known as the "Teardrop 70" because of it's smooth underside. Shares all bearings with the 60
*70-2U (unknown offset) same pinion and carrier bearings as U, but big wheel bearings.
*70-HD (.625" offset, '68+) These come in big trucks, lots of them out there but many in weird widths.
*70-3HD (.969" offset, '87+) Out of newer trucks, not a lot of low gears available for these ones.
*70-High Pinion (unkown offset, 2000ish+ Kodiak/Top Kick K4500/K5500 fronts) 10 lug high pinion 70, with 1550 joints (a 60 uses 1480) 5.13 gears are the only ones available for these axles.
*70-1SU (.625” offset) Super 70. Little info available, Dana lists only available ratios as 4.10 and 4.56. Teardrop housing and HD tubes and outers.

Often the variation will be cast into the housing, but not always, and in the case of the 3HD, it may be labeled as 2HD according to rocklobster87. The only way to know for sure is to check the BOM number. It is a 6 digit number, typically starting with a 6, stamped into the axle tube just to the right of the diff, when looking at the cover. Go to www2.dana.com and look it up to see what you’ve got.

The 70-U uses a smaller pinion bearing than any of the others (the same as a 60) All the others use the same inner pinion bearing. Carrier bearings and outer pinion bearing are the same as a 60. Wheel bearings vary, and can range from the same part numbers as 60’s and 14 bolts, to bigger.

The carrier bearings on the 70, 70-B and 70-U are all the same size (same bearings as a 60 carrier). The HD carrier is .125” narrower than the others, and can be use in the other 70’s with the addition of a 1/8” spacer. This leads me to assume that a normal 70 carrier won’t fit in a HD.

Because of the different pinion offsets available, it’s important to know exactly what you have when looking for gears and carriers.

If there are other ways to distinguish the variations with visual checks, post up what you know and pics if you can so we can make this as complete as possible.

Differences and similarities with the 60...

The std 70 uses some of the same bearings as the 60, the outer pinion bearing is the same one (splines and seals are also the same as a 60, so yokes are totally interchangeable), but the inner pinion bearing is significantly bigger. The carrier bearings are the same as a 60 also.

The inner wheel bearings are bigger than a 60, but the outers are the same. Here is a pic of a 4.10 pinion out of a 60 and one out of a 70. The bearing in front of each pinion is the inner wheel bearing. Which is the 60 and which is the 70 is pretty obvious.



Here's another view...



Shafts...

There are also different axle shaft spline counts available. The 35 spline is the most desirable (and I believe the most common too). Off the top of my head, here's the list, 16(?), 23, 30, 32 and 35 spline. Can anyone confirm these, I'm like 80% sure about those #'s.

Donor vehicles...

There are just about a million different applications that came with Dana 70 axles. There are too many to make a useful list. There are links to Dana's backdoor website below that list most of the applications. There is a ton of info in them, so make sure you're in a comfortable chair if you choose to navigate through them.

Misc info...

The ring gear diameter is 10.5"
The 35 spline versions are the same spline as the 35 spline 60’s and 9 inches we are all used to
The pinion nut requires a 1-5/16” thin wall socket, and should not be torqued beyond 300 lb/ft
The axle shaft flanges are typically larger than 14b and 60’s, and often use tapered cone washers on studs :smokin:
The oil capacity is about 3 quarts, Dana recommends 80w90 gear oil
The housing is ductile iron (a high quality type of cast iron)
The input torque rating is 7000 lb/ft max, 1750 lb/ft continuous for most (all?) versions from what I have gathered, the main differences are in the GVW rating.
Swapping SRW hubs on a DRW housing will make the axle effectively wider, not narrower.
Disk brake swaps are pretty much just as straightforward as they are on a 60. ¾ ton GM D44/10bolt front rotors, and the common 7-1/16” GM calipers.

Helpful Links

Dana BOM lookup page
Dana 70 Maintenance Guide
Dana 60/70 Powr-Lok LSD Service Manual
Dana Ring and Pinion Pattern guide
Dana shim kits
Ford application guide 1995-2005 (70 info p.34 to p.39)
Dodge application guide 1999-2001 (70 info p.40 to p.44)
Dana axle application/BOM guide 1979-1998 (all models, not just 70)
Dana axle application/BOM guide 1967-1978 (all models, not just 70)
Dana Light Axle General Information Guide, about a million applications and their BOMs (for all models, not just 70), from 1979-2005)


I'm planning on updating this post with anything you guys have to add, since it's missing more info than it has. It should make a pretty handy reference for all us 70 fans.

-Redd
 

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#206 ·
Do I have a Dana 70 or a 70U? Its the original axle on my 95 2500 Ram diesel with an auto trans. Has, er had 32 spline shafts originally and a Powerlok diff.
 
#209 ·
Look around on the webbing. Most of the Dodge diesels are D70-2U's and 32 spline. Where a D70-U out of a Dodge gas truck is 35 spline. Either will use 5/8" offset gears and a D70U master install kit.
 
#211 ·
What's the BOM#? That's the only way to truly tell wihtout seeing it.
 
#214 · (Edited)
BOM will start with a 6xxxxxx x(x) and it will be stamped into the rh axle tube for a rear axle. It is not cast into the housing. It is probably a late '60s axle.

Gus
 
#215 ·
What wheel studs are you guys using once you throw the rotor on the hub after its been on the lathe. The rotor I'm using is almost a 1/2" so the original stud will not work as it went into the drum prior which is a lot thinner. 240 thousandths did the charm for getting the 77 3/4 ton chevy rotors to clear my 84 dana 70u hub. You guys probably already know this but the 35 spline 70u takes the same carrier as a standard 70 not the 70hd like east coat gear supply sent me. They sent me some shims to make up the difference. We will see how that goes.
 
#216 ·
Correct, HD will work in non HD with a .125" shim. HD carriers are typically cheaper than non HD. Say Detroit, is like $20 less.
 
#217 ·
Got some good info for dana 70 disk brake conversion.

Wheel stud
- Dorman 610-283 .6500 knurl 9/16 18 thread 2 17/32 length. The trick to using these is to machine down the shoulder right after the knurl. It is .6728. You could also just drill out the rotor with a 43/64 drill bit. Their application is for GM dana 60 fronts.

The hub was drilled out to 5/8. My buddy set me straight on this one. I was going off the knurl size and not the shank body. Measure before or after the knurl to get your pressed fit.

The 77 k20 rotor throat was opened 240 thousandths. Autozone rotor number 5523.

Ruffstuff has the correct bolt on caliper brackets

autozone calipers C502 C503


Ok now you guys can help me out. I cant for the life of me remember what goes between the spindle nut and the outer bearing. Were there washers of any kind. I only have the outer axle seals and hub nuts in my parts pile. The Dana website shows everything except the hub assembly.
 
#218 ·
Got some good info for dana 70 disk brake conversion.


Ok now you guys can help me out. I cant for the life of me remember what goes between the spindle nut and the outer bearing. Were there washers of any kind. I only have the outer axle seals and hub nuts in my parts pile. The Dana website shows everything except the hub assembly.
no washer, just nut to outer bearing.
 
#222 ·
Snap-on makes a thin wall impact socket in 1/2" drive that will work with a 1310 yoke.

Gus
Yup! You can also check Grainger as they have Proto's...
 
#229 ·
This is what I have too (in my 06 diesel van). Have you done anything to the gear/carrier, or know any more about the differences in a D70S versus D70/HD? I want an ARB in mine, but am told that they do not make one that will work (according to Randy's and ARB Corporate). If it's really just a difference in how the ring gear is set-up (adjusters), seems that either a D70 or D70HD carrier would work...but I don't know and don't have any other carrier to compare with. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I'm currently at the point of looking for a 14BFF for this project...and using my D70S brakes for a disk conversion. I'd much rather just slap an ARB and gears in what I have though. Only has 48K miles...and seems stout otherwise.
 
#227 ·
Im looking at the weird 70-3hd in the local JY ($120) for a rear axle in my tow rig project... Not a definite, could go with a 14bff and probably will, but the 70-3hd is stronger and cant find any regular HDs or Us that arent Dually... I haven't looked at the 3hd's gears, but from what I have found, they will be either 3.73 or 4.56. Those are no good to me, but if I could get 4.10s, I would run it... Any one know where in the hell I can find gears, are they even made?? I have searched the Google and found nothing... The Dana/Spicer Axle Information PDF only has the two ratios above listed and they are discontinued... Might be too much trouble but worth a shot...
 
#234 ·
Digging into the Dana Super 70 rear axle (as used in the vans)

I have a Dana 70S as identified in another thread in the rear of my 2006 GMC Savana Cargo Van. I'm moving forward with the project and have selected 4.10 gears. Since the van currently has 3.73's, I need to change gearing in the back. I figure I have a few options for this.

* Keep the existing axle and regear.
* Find a 4.10 version for replacement.
* Find a 14BFF in 4.10 gears.

This would be a simple answer if I was planing on keeping the open carrier, but I am not. I want to have an ARB locker in the back some day (sooner rather than later). With this in mind, I contacted ARB and asked about the application. After several email exchanges (great customer service!), they sent me a form to fill out to see if they have a carrier that will work (i.e. maybe a 70U or a 70HD version). They just don't know enough about the axle and therefore say they don't have anything.

So, I'm in a position where I have a low mileage axle with excellent brakes that I will only regear if I can get an ARB. Otherwise it's be better to swap in a 14BFF, IMO. The money saved on gears is spent on the whole axle, about a wash I think, but a lot more work.

Does anyone have a carrier from a Super 70 rear axle (or complete axle) they can measure for me? I'd like to get the form filled out and back to ARB. I also need bearing numbers. If not, I can certainly pull the cover on my axle and start measuring, but it won't be as timely as the van is driven on a regular basis, and I really don't want to be dropping the carrier right now. If so, please PM me your email address and I'll forward the ARB form on to you.

Any other Super 70 info is appreciated too!

Thanks!
 
#235 ·
I have a Dana 70S as identified in another thread in the rear of my 2006 GMC Savana Cargo Van. I'm moving forward with the project and have selected 4.10 gears. Since the van currently has 3.73's, I need to change gearing in the back. I figure I have a few options for this.

* Keep the existing axle and regear.
* Find a 4.10 version for replacement.
* Find a 14BFF in 4.10 gears.

This would be a simple answer if I was planing on keeping the open carrier, but I am not. I want to have an ARB locker in the back some day (sooner rather than later). With this in mind, I contacted ARB and asked about the application. After several email exchanges (great customer service!), they sent me a form to fill out to see if they have a carrier that will work (i.e. maybe a 70U or a 70HD version). They just don't know enough about the axle and therefore say they don't have anything.

So, I'm in a position where I have a low mileage axle with excellent brakes that I will only regear if I can get an ARB. Otherwise it's be better to swap in a 14BFF, IMO. The money saved on gears is spent on the whole axle, about a wash I think, but a lot more work.

Does anyone have a carrier from a Super 70 rear axle (or complete axle) they can measure for me? I'd like to get the form filled out and back to ARB. I also need bearing numbers. If not, I can certainly pull the cover on my axle and start measuring, but it won't be as timely as the van is driven on a regular basis, and I really don't want to be dropping the carrier right now. If so, please PM me your email address and I'll forward the ARB form on to you.

Any other Super 70 info is appreciated too!

Thanks!

Whats your plan with the van? Why the bigger tires?
 
#237 ·
Glad I found this post, need info on dana 70. Just bought 1988 gmc dually 4x4. I believe its the dana70 HD. It does have 4" tubes and 4.11 gears. I was thinking that I MIGHT (!!!) go to a single wheel and would like to know the best and cheapest way of getting a single wheel on that rear, Pros and cons of either or,. I want to put true 37" tires on this truck (wrangler M/Ts) and dont know if I can get all that meat on the dually rear without spacers or a narrower 37" tire. Would sure appreciate your input of staying dually and what it would take to get those 37's in there or going single and what that will take. Thanks for your time ,
 
#240 · (Edited)
not necessarily.

Couldn't he run 14 bolt SRW hubs on it or just run stock h-1 beadlocks? Only downside is your DRW hub would stick out if you ran h1's. If you combine SRW hubs and stock h-1's you would be about the same width as a dana 60 DRW front, and your hub would be more tucked in.

I'm assuming you aren't towing running a single 37" MTR.

if you are towing and want drw, then you might have to find dually wheels and tires that will fit. You already have a narrower perch width on the 1 ton so there is a bit more room. but 37's on a tow rig is pointless.
 
#249 ·
Cleaned my garage up the other day and moved my axles into one place. Found some lugnuts laying in a box in the shop so I since my axles didn't come with lugnuts I did a test fit.

They fit my 79 HP Ford Dana 60 wheel studs with no problem.

Found out that my Rear Dana 70 has bigger studs.

What are my options to have matching studs on both axles and will this effect my wheel choice?

I plan on working out in the garage tonight on another project so if needed I can get the BOM and any markings that may be needed on the dana 70.

I do know that it's a 65wms, with 35spline axles.
 
#251 ·
Reid Racing. New castings. Better material as well. :grinpimp:
 
#252 ·
I bought a 70HD from a 79 Chevy Dually. It had been rebuilt in the past with a new ring and pinion and I noticed it had play at the pinion bearings. Someone had set the preload by backing the nut off.:shaking:

The shoulder for the shims on the pinion was machined about .080 deeper than another 70HD pinion that I have. The pinions look identical except for that.

After making a spacer I was able to set it up correctly. Anyone ever have this problem?
 
#254 ·
So no one has brought up anything about setting gears up in a 70. I'm currently putting a 70 rear in my 'yota and putting 6.17s and a detroit in, but having a PITA taking the origional carrier bearings off. I have all new bearings etc., but I want to take off the origionals so I can measure the shims to get in the ballpark for setting the backlash on the new carrier. There isn't much for my bearing puller to grab on.

Any help?
Or am I missing something??
 
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