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Guido's 1965 Scout 80

162K views 303 replies 69 participants last post by  bk2life 
#1 · (Edited)
Guido's 1965 Scout 80 + 7.3L PSD

Alright fawkers:flipoff2: I've had my Scout since July 2006, it started off as a simple frame on restification to get it driving, then the project creep began, fixed a bunch of rust, swapped axles, power steering, disc brakes, etc. Nuthin' really Pirate worthy.

I've only driven it three times, once into the garage, once onto the trailer and once off the trailer. :laughing: Although, that's 3 more times than Brandon's driven his:flipoff2: looks like he's on the home stretch now though.

For me, it's rare to have the holy trinity (time, money, and motivation), but with a nice tax refund from Uncle Sugar the planets aligned and I stumbled across a wrecked 4x4 1996 F250 7.3L International PSD, ZF 5 speed :idea:

If the guys at Petersen's 4WOR can stuff a Cummins 6BT into a Jeep I can get a 7.3 PSD in my Scout with some slight firewall mods:grinpimp:


Can you guys help me?:flipoff2:


7.3/ZF 5 speed/203/205 10b/14FF yeah, yeah 10bolt sucks but it's what I got for now.

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#124 ·
Thanks BinderBound :beer: I remember reading through your TracTracTor build back when I first got my Scout.
 
#126 ·
Sorry, I'm back in Iraq. Ask me again in about 3 months. :flipoff2:
 
#128 ·
Thanks, will do :usa:

plug ugly, something that might help you with your spring placement, I read a thread about setting shackle angle (there were a few posts by trkklr77 IIRC) and using the measurements of the flat spring when figuring out spring/shackle placement.

Here's what I did: I dropped a plumb bob from the frame where I wanted the axle centerline to be, then measured forward the same amount as the center pin to the center of the eye (26" for 52" Chevy springs) and tacked my front spring hangers on. With the springs bolted up to the axle, lowerd the weight down on the springs with a block of wood on each side to make sure the spring eye would clear the frame. I bolted up the shackle and set the shackle angle at ride height to see where I needed to mount the hanger. Double checked to make sure everything was square and even. I still had to mess with my shackle angle a bit before I got it where I wanted it bit it seemed to work pretty well. HTH :beer:
 
#130 ·
All right...time for some updates!!!

I made it home from Iraq at the beginning of October and after some relaxation I got to work on the Scout. Once again, I'll be getting transferred again soon and I have to get the Scout street-worthy, registered and insured so the Army will ship it to Hawaii.

First, I redid both sides of the floor with .125" diamond tread floorplate and built some seat brackets with some 1.25"x.080" square tube:









 
#131 ·
Once I had my floors fixed up, I could get to work on my mini boatsides. The mini boatsides are 2x2x.188 angle, 1x2x.080 rect tube, and 3"x.188" strap/flat stock. There are 20 bolts in each one (eight 3/8" bolts countersunk along the bottom, and twelve 3/8" bolts along the top edge with nut plates inside) the mini boatsides took care of my rusty rocker panels, protect the stock side gas tanks, give me some protection and a little more clearance under the doors/rocker panel. I will be trimming the fenders and clean up the edges.









 
#133 ·
I've got the 19 gal F250 tank, but I'm keeping the saddle tanks becasue I'm thinking about using the saddle tanks as a reserve, or for waste veggie oil and/or bio diesel and use the Ford tank selector valve to switch back and forth.
 
#140 ·
Hope you racked up the hours while deployed, I hear they're hard to come by in HI.
Nope, I was on a MiTT with the Iraqi Army, not flying :(

welcome back quido.

just a thought, but what about putting 1/4 or 3/8 flat stock between the bolt heads, to prevent a rock from snagging and tearing a bolt head.
I like the exposed bolts, but if it's a problem, I could always use some button head allen head bolts.
 
#139 ·
GLAD YOU MADE IT BACK SAFE AND SOUND!

Good to see some progress being made.



just a thought, but what about putting 1/4 or 3/8 flat stock between the bolt heads, to prevent a rock from snagging and tearing a bolt head.
That is a great idea:smokin:
 
#143 · (Edited)
Happy Thanksgiving :beer:
The Scout is on the way to Hawaii. I had it dropped off in Dallas yesterday, it gets shipped to San Diego, then on a boat to Hawaii.


After a serious wrench-a-thon I got it put back together and registered.

After fabricating, installing and removing so many parts to make sure everything was going to fit together correctly it feels good to be on the home stretch of "final" assembly. Over the last three weeks, I fabricated a new dash (I'll post pics of that later), installed the rollbar and seatbelt mounts, installed the XRC10 winch, fabbed up emergency brake system, pulled the top off, and sprayed Al's DIY bedliner on the tub.

http://www.alsliner.com/index.php

The Al's Liner is some pretty cool stuff. It's a 3 part polyurethane bedliner that you mix and spray on. I'm sure it's too thick in some places and too thin in others, but for a rookie bedliner sprayer-on-er I think it came out pretty damn good. I used 2 gallons.

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I wanted to sink the winch down behind the bumper, but I'm running out of time to get it done, so I just stuck it up top, looks pretty good so it will probably stay there. I added some blingin' stainless hood louvers too (à la Rick Westra)

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Here's the top going back on:
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Next up: ARB locker, and reinstall the dash and finish some electrical wiring for the turn signals and speedometer.
 
#144 · (Edited)
The Scout is registered and about 90-95% complete and ready to be my daily driver. I I finished up some wiring and got turn signals and running/parking lights hooked up.

My brake light switch seems to have shit the bed. It's a hydraulic switch plumbed in just off the master cylinder. I can get the brake lights on with a jumper wire, but the switch isn't working. I got a replacement, but with the limited tools I have since the movers came and packed up all I couldn't get the old switch off. I think I'm going to have to re-do some brake line plumbing to get my brake lights fixed once I get my Scout and tools back in the same place.

I have to pass inspection to get it from the dock once it arrives in Hawaii, so I'll rig up a momentary switch on the pedal to get past the inspection (I hope).

Here's some pics of the dash, I still have to finish up a little finish work around the edges and install the rest of my gauges (pyro, boost, oil pressure, and water temp) but it's mostly done. I built a frame from 1.25 x.083 and 1" x .063 square tubing and bent the aluminum diamond tread around it. I did the long break along the top edge with my sheet metal brake, and the rest I beat into submission with a 3lb deadblow hammer. There's about 60 screws holding the diamond tread skin on the frame.

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I also got the ARB installed in the rear. I still need to plumb the compressor and airlines.

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That's a Ruff Stuff diff cover: 3/8" thick, fully welded and machined flat for a leak free fit.

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Nothing to do now but find a place to live that's Scout friendly, and wait for my junk to arrive.
 
#146 ·
Thanks, I can't remember where I got the idea:flipoff2:

:grinpimp:
 
#151 ·
:( That sucks dude, hang in there. Good luck on the job search.
 
#153 ·
So I was going back through my pics and found a few that I hadn't downloaded yet.
Hey Mechanos, I finally got around to fixing my caster angle on the front. :flipoff2:

When I first swapped in the 10 bolt, I had mounted the front of the springs just under the bumper, as I didn't want big fangs sticking down and killing my approach angle. Unfortunately, that gave me about 14* positive caster (top of knuckle tilted back) which wasn't a big deal when it was sitting on jack stands :laughing:
I ordered 7* STEEL caster shims from DIY4X but when I finally got around to putting the shims in... springs hit the tie rod:mad: I tried taking out the overload, nope. :mad: Still hit.

So... I ended up cutting off the spring hangers and making new ones. I used some extra 3/8" shackles from Ruff Stuff, 3"x.250 square tubing, and some 3/16" flat stock. The angled piece is part if the original spring hanger. I still need to add some gussets, but I don't think they are going anywhere. I dropped the front mounting holes down about 3.5" which gave me a MUCH better caster angle and leveled out my springs.

I haven't measured it yet, but it looks like it will be good, and I shouldn't have to do a cut and turn. Which is good becasue I don't plan on keeping the 10 bolt anyway...

I might have a lead on a D60::grinpimp::









 
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