Pics of my custom steering with a Big Block on an FJ40.......helocat

[468LC]

Here are some of my pics with a custom Flaming River/Borgeson 3 U joint steering shaft setup on my 77FJ40. The first pic is the 3/4"spherical bearing pillowblock and simple bracket.

[468LC]

Another shot of the steering shaft from above.

[orangefj45]

if you're trying to snap the rear pinion, i think you got the perfect setup!:flipoff2:

hope you got some kind of traction device on that baby.:eek:

[468LC]

LOL orangefj here is a pic of that for ya.:flipoff2: :D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1066627

[468LC]

From way above.

[468LC]

Steering box and damper.

[468LC]

Tie rod and draglink.

If someone has some ideas on the best way to get that tierod higher off the ground I'm game for hearing them.

[468LC]

Pic of my "homebuilt steering arm" that I'm sure most SOA guys have seen in here.:flipoff2:

[Big DW]

Originally posted by 468LC
If someone has some ideas on the best way to get that draglink higher off the ground I'm game for hearing them.

Have you ever heard of High Steer?

[orangefj45]

:D

[468LC]

Originally posted by Dave W


Have you ever heard of High Steer?

Hey dave I have been out of the landcruiser sceene for probably 6 years or so.:emb4:

LOL Sorry I meant to of course say tierod.:D
I can remember almost 9 years ago when my steering set up with the Warden style steering arm was state of the art.;)
Can you fill me in with some high steer info?

Steve

[Mr McGee]

what rod ends did you use and what are the wear characteristics on them? (ie, slop or no slop :D)

how have they held up?

[orangefj45]

check with allen @ rockbuggysupply.com , he's got a pretty cool website and good prices.;)

[BJ On Roids]

Originally posted by 468LC
LOL orangefj here is a pic of that for ya.:flipoff2: :D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1066627

bet that thing hops like a mofo when you wail on it :eek:

put a strap on that axle :D

[ranger]

Looks like that big block came as a factory option...Looks smooth!
Nice job on the custom steering design!
If you decide to go high steer, keep me in mind for that arm...I have uses for that! :skull:

[morgan]

Originally posted by 468LC
If someone has some ideas on the best way to get that tierod higher off the ground I'm game for hearing them.

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/high-steer/

Morgan

[Nomad]

Originally posted by 468LC
LOL orangefj here is a pic of that for ya.:flipoff2: :D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1066627
Hey 468LC, nice rig, what did you use for your rear disk brake set-up??
Thanks,
Cheers:beer:

[468LC]

Originally posted by BJ On Roids


bet that thing hops like a mofo when you wail on it :eek:

put a strap on that axle :D

BJ I have never had this thing hop on me and LOL I don't wail on nothing with the big block in there.:D That ladder bar goes up to a big shackle on the crossmember.

What exactly were you thinking?:confused:

[468LC]

Originally posted by Mr McGee
what rod ends did you use and what are the wear characteristics on them? (ie, slop or no slop :D)

how have they held up?

Sorry man they have been on my cruiser since about 94 and I can't remember where I got them.:emb4: I just know that I ordered them from a guy back in the midwest. It was like 200 for the tie rod and drag link made to my length specs. Been on there for about 20k miles and just a little bit of wheeling.
No play at all in this time frame.

[468LC]

Originally posted by Nomad

Hey 468LC, nice rig, what did you use for your rear disk brake set-up??
Thanks,
Cheers:beer:

Nomad those are TSM brackets and chevy calipers with late model chevy rotors.

[468LC]

Thanks for the link morgan. Looks like a really cool setup to use.
I just barely remember seeing these setups in some of my old 4wheeldrive and sport ute mags.:D

I have to wonder if that tierod in a highsteer set up would hit my frame with my current springs which damn near bend over backwards articulating with no bumpstops?


Can do ranger on that steering arm but I doubt I would make a change any time soon since I might as well run what I have until it gets bunged up.:D

[Mustard Dog]

That's the exact same steering arm I had before high steer:D

Looks good man;)

[40_Bones]

Originally posted by 468LC
LOL orangefj here is a pic of that for ya.:flipoff2: :D

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1066627

I can't tell from this picture, but are the brackets on the housing boxed? I would highly recommend doing that as well as adding a couple of gussets running diagonal from the bracket to the housing. I have a similar set-up on mine but It's more centered on the housing. (you have 2-3 inches more bracket above the housing). My 1/4" brackets are no-longer straight and parallel because I didn't box and gusset. Now they have to be cut off and replaced.:mad: Also, I have seen non-supported brackets like that fail completely tearing in 2 pieces from the top of the weld at the housing in a straight line towards the front of the rig causing the axle to rotate and the driveline to twist and break.
Box and gusset! Real cheap insurance.

My .02

Brian

[helocat]

Steve,

Outstanding work on your steering set up. I was wondering if that rod end was bolted to the shock mount on the first shot I saw of our engine compartment. I like the small bracket you built for it, makes since. Is the slip joint located right in that first shot you posted up on this thread? Did you get the parts directly from Flaming River? (shaft and joints)

As for the high steer set up, it is a great way to go. With about three companies offering the arms you have your choice. I have helped set this up on two SOA rigs now and will soon convert my modified arms (home brew high steer) to the commercially made units. All you need is the outer knuckles from a 79’ on Toyota 4x4, as the arms are really made for the mini guys. AllPro off road used to sell the knuckles for $40 each, but I have seen them on sale on this board for $20 each. One thing to keep in mind, people running the high steer set ups have found it imperative to keep an eye on the studs and nuts that hold the arms on the knuckles. Some have sheared them; some have just found the nuts and cone washers backing off, so keep and eye on them. (just make it part of the pre-flight)

Mark

[cruiserbrett]

Hi-steer companies

Rockstomper Offroad (http://www.rockstomper.com)
Marlin Crawler (http://www.marlincrawler.com)
Kongs 4x4 (http://www.kongs4x4.com)
Allpro Off road (http://www.allprooffroad.com)
Sky manufacturing (http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/)
Extreme Gear Offroad (http://www.extremegearoffroad.com/)

Those are the ones I can think of for now...

I think the Sky and Marlin arms are the same...

[LC Hamma]

BB Chebby + birfields = :nuke: Go ahead & try it :rolleyes: Are 'ya:rasta: Very clean looking conversion though :cool:

[468LC]

Originally posted by helocat
Steve,

Outstanding work on your steering set up. I was wondering if that rod end was bolted to the shock mount on the first shot I saw of our engine compartment. I like the small bracket you built for it, makes since. Is the slip joint located right in that first shot you posted up on this thread? Did you get the parts directly from Flaming River? (shaft and joints)

Mark

Thanks for the highsteer info both Mark and Brett.

I'm not sure if I'm gonna mess with that until I truly find it necessary. I have been wheeling here in the cascades for years and have never bent a tie rod. Knock on wood.

Mark I have no real slip joint in this system and have not really found in necessary.

I bought all my steering parts from Art Morrison Enterprises here in Fife Wa.
They are a local chassis builder. I monkied around with a bunch of 3/4" tubing and some napa u joints and it looked way rigged up if you know what I mean. I got pissed and grabed the credit card went down there and spent 300 bucks on the proper parts.
3 joints and two pre splined shafts. I also got the special pillow block rod end for that price.
You can get the shafts in a thousand different lengths and spline configurations.

Let me know if you want further info on Art M.

[468LC]

Originally posted by LC Hamma
BB Chebby + birfields = :nuke: Go ahead & try it :rolleyes:

LOL I'm getting on in years and I'm not as crazy as I used to be.:eek:

For most people I would agree. I however have owned this shitpile for 14 years and I have never changed a birfield but have watched many other guys change them on the side of the trail.
Part of that is my driving style and the other part is just not putting myself in birfield danger.:D

I will be honest, I have not wheeled this thing with the BB in it yet. I do have confidence that I could do it for some time with out breakage.

Oh yeah I also want to add that most of the wheeling here in Wa is not as hard on parts as most of what the Hardcore guys are doing I see in here.:flipoff2: :D

LOL I love this place already.
I only wish I would have had access to a site like this 10 years ago.:)

[EricFJ40]

I think if you're easy on it you shouldn't have Birfield issues. I've been wheeling mine with the TBI 454, 39.5s and a dana 44 in front for about a year now without major problems. You just have to drive using the big head. I could break axles at will if I wanted to, but then I'd just have to fix them:mad: .

Nice looking swap too. That steering shaft set-up looks similar to what I came up with to clear the BB.:cool:

[468LC]

Originally posted by EricFJ40
You just have to drive using the big head. I could break axles at will if I wanted to, but then I'd just have to fix them:mad: .




exactly and exactly.:D

Hey eric do you have any pics of your cooling system?

[EricFJ40]

Sorry no pics. I just have a Howe 19"x27" two core aluminum radiator, a 19" Flex Fan, and I'm in the process of building a fan shroud. On the road it usually runs about 190, on the trail it has a tendency to creep towards 220. That is why I'm building the shroud. The cardboard and duct tape mock-up I built kept the temps between 190 and 200 no matter what.

[BIGBLOCKFJ40]

i just want to know what headers u used?? im running a bbc in my cruiser and just cut some standard bigblock headres to run outside the frame.. i hate em and want some block huggers. what headers did u use?

[468LC]

99 DOLLAR Dynomax block huggers.
They fit great and were cheap to boot.:)

[EricFJ40]

Originally posted by 468LC
99 DOLLAR Dynomax block huggers.
They fit great and were cheap to boot.:)

Ditto for mine too. If youv'e got money to blow, you might check out a set of Sanderson cast headers. They fit the same as the typical block huggers, but are super heavy-duty and last forever.

[BIGBLOCKFJ40]

thanks alot guys :D $99!!! damn.. mine were $80. and a spent an entire day cutting and rewelding them at different angles to run outside the frame.

[71fj40]

Hey can you possibly take a shot of the bracket for the front of that traction bar? I have a similar set-up, but I don't like the way may bracket attaches to the cross member. If you get a chance I would appreciate it.
Thanks

[468LC]

71fj here ya go.

I know it's not the strongest possible setup but it has been working flawlessly for 8 years.

I used a threaded tubing adapter welded into the stock crossmember with a polyurethane rod end and a shackle to another poly rod end. I'm gonna change the upper poly rod end to a regular teflon lined rod end that will tolerate the flex better.

[468LC]

pic 2

[71fj40]

Looks good. Similar to my set-up.
Thanks a lot.