I've been reading some posts that talked about tapping tubing with right hand threads on both sides.
I can see the reasoning in that if the jamb nuts work loose, the links don't re-adjust their self. It would be a pain to adjust initially though.

I'm getting ready to do some DOM tubing and was thinking of trying this. Has anyone had experience w/ this?

With tapping? Yep. Make sure the cut is SQUARE and I chamfered the tubing before starting the thread. Other than that, its pretty much the same as tapping anything else

GM used jam nuts on mid-80's Blazers and pickups. Right and left hand threads. I'd think if it was prone to doing unsafe things, like adjusting itself, they'd have not used that setup.

I think the theory behind the tierod not adjusting itself if the jam nuts work loose, is a cover for the fact that in many cases, the left hand tap is very expensive.

I've never actually seen a tierod that has adjusted itself like that. By the same logic, all tie rod setups should be right hand thread, because if the little lock strap bolts work loose, the tie rod could adjust itself.

But as was recently pointed out, I'm an old fart.

Scott,
Long time no see, haven't been by the new shop yet (don't get to Longmont much).

I think it ws Nick @ Extreme Engineering that was talking about this. I wanted to get some other opinions on it over here.

I assume that if the tap job is sloppy, the jamb nuts would work loose easier. So you really think it's just a factor of not wanting to spend the $70-$125 to have a tap made? I'm all for not spending the cash, but have no problem with doing it. Although I have had you make a tierod for me, I really try to do everything myself.
Thanks
Greg
PS, If you are an old fart, I guess I'm a stale old fart (I'm maybe 4yrs older than you).

Originally posted by Oldmule
I assume that if the tap job is sloppy, the jamb nuts would work loose easier. So you really think it's just a factor of not wanting to spend the $70-$125 to have a tap made? I'm all for not spending the cash, but have no problem with doing it. Although I have had you make a tierod for me, I really try to do everything myself.

If the tap job is loose, the jam nuts will likely work loose easier, but realistically, with the tube tapped directly, with nearly 4" of thread engagement into the tube (with typical straight axle tierod ends), even that's unlikely.

And if you want a tap to do 7/8-18 LH, stop by the shop. I've got a bin of dull taps that are still usable for hand tapping, but too dull to machine tap--and if I can't machine tap with 'em, they're toast to me. Save yourself the cash by (literally) relieving me of some trash.

The bigger concern with the tap job is that it be straight--with that deep of a tap job, if it's misaligned to start with, it'll have problems all the way down, possibly as bad as flat-out breaking the tap off. Flat seat on the jam nuts is another concern--if the tube isn't square, it's also more likely to be an issue.

And I have great respect for (and support of) DIY'ers... that's why almost everything I sell, is available in bare-component form. I haven't figured out the liability of selling wheel parts to the general public yet (prolly don't want to figure it out) but other than that... well... pick-n-choose what you need. :)

Do you lathe cut your tubing or chop saw it? I was wondering about angles, If I cut steel too fast I get a "friction taper"
as I call it. I have been able to get around it by using thicker blades and cutting slower. But, was concerned about cutting DOM stuff w/ the chop saw. I have access to a friends lathe and Mill/drill, but not sure if it is worth the effort.

Thanks for the offer, I will take you up on it!

Greg

Bandsaw. :)
Horizontal self-feed--not a real big one, I think it's spec'd as a 7x12.
Used to chop-saw it before the bandsaw, but it's been years. I don't even have my chop-saw any more.

I had the COOLEST thing happen to me on ICEMAN in the Black Hills: I had a new tierod on the front of my big ol' Scout II. Did it the "propper" way, that is, left and right hand threads to ease in alignment. Well, I must have had it on backwards, cuz as I was climbing a waterfall, I dug the tierod into a long edge, and heard a loud banging sound of something falling underneathe my truck, then the steering wheel kicked over to the left and I dumped the Scout on its door.
What happened you ask? I'll tell you! The ledge rolled the tie rod right off its threads and it fell off! It took me like 15 minutes of standing there holding it with a dumbfounded look on my face and scratching my head! I just couldn't figure out what had happened! So, since that embarrassing moment, I use only right hand threads. Makes adjustments a PITA, but no matter how hard I jamb the links, they will not change on me.

Originally posted by Oldmule
I've been reading some posts that talked about tapping tubing with right hand threads on both sides.
I can see the reasoning in that if the jamb nuts work loose, the links don't re-adjust their self. It would be a pain to adjust initially though.



While having right hand treads on both ends is is easy and the toe-in won't change if the jam nuts get loose, the problem is that setting the toe in will not be very accurate. This is because you can only ajust it by one complete turn at a time. This won't matter with a trail only rig, but it may be a tire wear and death wobble problem with larger tires.

The major reason that you commonly have a right hand thread and a left hand thread on the other side is that the toe-in setting is continuously adjustable.

I just bought some right hand taps on ebay. They work great! It's really easy to do. I already had a 85 blazer tie rod, so I just just cut the tube leaving the left hand threads intact, then re tapped the right hand threads. Using that as a temp until I come up with a good source(reasonable price) to buy a left hand tap.

The problem I have with using all right hand theads is I need to use the chevy end that has the hole for the drag link to connect to. Of course that one is left hand!

For my new steering we slit the DOM and are using lock straps. Found the straps for 1.5" tubing at a semi shop. If you don't like jam nuts that could be another solution.

Originally posted by bigdude
For my new steering we slit the DOM and are using lock straps. Found the straps for 1.5" tubing at a semi shop. If you don't like jam nuts that could be another solution.

Something like this?

Originally posted by 350 Samurai


Something like this?

Hard to say, the bastards still haven't shipped them :D I only know what we decide over the phone :flipoff2: