OK fellows, after terribly overheating my truck due to my stupidity, I'm tearing it down to redo the heads and maybe a new shortblock.

In the interim, I have run into a perplexing problem. I have broken five sockets trying to pull a single head bolt! Since then, I have bought a new impact wrench and can't get it to budge even using the impact.

I had hoped to do this project without pulling the block out, but that is looking less likely every passing minute.

I've tried the cheater bar route and only managed to scar the bolt.

Anybody got any secrets to how they handle such things? I do not wish to have to pull the block and use a drill or grinder to cut the head off the bolt.

BTW-once I pulled the valve covers and intake, I was surprised at how much sludge was present and the terrible condition of the camshaft. A new short-block is definitely in the works, but I'd prefer to wait for warmer weather.

I have other things to do with my time-like get Ike's parts off of the series and get started on the series!

Peace,
Paul

An impact gun is useless on head bolts. some times it can pull a few, but most have to be pulled with a breaker bar. A cheater bar is going to get you hurt in this situation. Get yourself a good thick breaker bar, The one from MAC is really good, but The home depot should have something strong enough. And then make sure you are using a good quality 6 point socket. This will get them every time, but you may need another helping hand, if there is an internal problem (ie overheating the block), or you are a light weight. There was a little chinese guy working at rover for awhile, and he had to have someone else break his head bolts for him.

Thanx KC,

In my defense :rolleyes: I'm using a Snap-On 18" breaker bar with a very tight-fitting (easy Merv!) cheater bar of black iron pipe that just slides over the end of the breaker bar.

Now that I have a good selection of six-point impact sockets, I doubt I'll be breaking any more. My biggest fear is of rounding the bolt off as the socket tries to slip off of the bolt.

I'm suspecting that it was the overheating as this bolt is the furthest away from the radiator and would reasonably be expected to have the least flow under the conditions I subjected it to.

I wonder if it would help if I were to torque the bolts around this one to some semblance of proper torque and then see if this relieves any of the tension on the last bolt.

I suppose this does not bode well for my desire to reuse these heads, eh?

Let us pray to the gods of Roverdom that it didn't get hot enough to drop a sleeve!

I'll try to bang on it some more this evening.

BTW- all of the sockets that I broke were Craftsman, six-point! Let's hear it for Craftsman quality, eh?

Paul

Head bolt's are a pita. I used a 24" breaker with a 12" cheater. Even then (with my 240lbs behind it) it was a major shock when they let go. I was putting HUGE amount of pull into it to get them loose...Then SNAP! I think I only bloodied one or two knuckles.

--D

OK, looks like I may also need more torque! I'll pick up another piece of pipe this afternoon, pound on the bolt some more, hit it with the impact and then go back to the cheater bar.

So far, no bloody knuckles, but one hell of a banged up elbow!

Not only do the head bolts let go with a snap, I was really surprised to hear the noise the intake made as I loosened the bolts.

Paul

Weaklings

3ft pipe over the breaker bar and they will pop right off (especially when you look like me :evil: ). I can even get them off with the ingersol 2131, most of the time.

You need a mechanics strait edge to check the head and block. If it were me I would have them machined down to flat and run composite gaskets with the new stretch head bolts.

BTW 3.9 head bolts are easier to get off than 4.0/4.6 head bolts.

Most all 3.9 cams are beat, especially at your mileage. Lifters usually are ok, but check them ditto for pushrods though rockers are crap. Pop in a 4.2 cam (3.9 cams are unobtainium at this point in time anyway) and call it a day.

Ron

PS even if your 3.9 heads are warped they are still worth something

Thanks for everybody who had a suggestion. I was really surprised at how easily that bolt came out Monday evening. The short cheater bar was plenty much for the job. I was pleasantly surprised to find the bores in good shape, however, one of the heads disturbs me somewhat. I found that two of the exhaust valves, adjacent to each other, will not close. I'm assuming they got hot and bent, but there is no evidence of intereference between the valve and the pistons so I'm at a loss here, hoping I didn't lose a valve seat. I assume this was where the gasket let loose.

Ron, thanx for the encouragement on the condition of the heads and their value. I have a very nice antique (but true) Brown and Sharp straight edge and I'll take alook at the block this evening. I'll leave the heads alone as I think it is more worthwhile to just have them surfaced, rather than wasting time measuring deviation.

Peace,
Paul