Got my new cage built last week...will get some "installed" shots soon, but here's the pic of it just prior to painting on Thursday evening...

http://www.ih8mud.com/photos/cage/cage1.jpg

My buddy Jim (Ridderbush Fabrication) did all the bend/weld work and I played "assistant/director" on the project. Started bending Tues evening 12/3, finished bending Wed evening, finished welding Thurs day, paint/install Thurs night, off to Attica on Friday. He runs a ProTools hydraulic and an ancient Miller 250. The dash and head hoops and the bent side spreaders are 1-3/4" x .120 wall, the rear stringers are 1-3/4" x .095 wall, and the seat brackets/spreaders, X-brace, and overhead stringers are all 1-1/2" x .095 wall.

saved a PILE of weight versus my previous cage!

It looks good but you could not compete with that cage in Sweden due to the bends in the fron hoop.

I like it. I'm not into the super bird cages. Iwas wondering how do you get the gas tank out with the seat mounting tubes? We had to do some creative tube to give it room to come out?
Tom

I've never seen anyone mount the rear bars verticaly to the body. Do you think that'll be stringer that a flat pad on the fenderwell?;)

Fuel tank was removed and is now a 15 gallon aluminum fuel cell. My old setup was such that the cage needed to be removed to access the stock tank tho as well...this has the advantage of allowing the seats to sit a bit lower and not interfere, one of the issues I had with my old setup. I do like the fact that the cage is removable for repairs to it or the body, yet every mounting point ties in directly to the custom/stronger body mounts.

When we redid the body 4-5 years back, the uprights at the back corners of the tub were junk, so we replaced them with 2"x2"OD by 1/4" wall tubing - with that strength and the fact that they tie directly into the body mount at that point allowed me to tie the cage in thru there and keep the fenderwells clear.