: no front locker in 404 axle


macarthur4x4
10-03-2011, 07:45 PM
hey there guys..
need a little advise if possible.. My locker in the front 404 axle of my lux wont engage.. the engaging arm just rotates freely not locking anything in, it was ok the last time i wheeled, i pulled the lever out and found there wasnt anything in the hole for it to make contact with???
Iv been told you need the locker to be engaged when pulling the centre out is this true or not ?? if it is can it be done easy enough other wise..

So much for factory reconditioned diffs like i payed for... once again a bit thanks the Swiss Army Vehicles for supply an inferia product.:mad3:

Any advise would be great ..

weps
10-04-2011, 06:43 AM
THe locking collar may have broke. you said that it worked fine before.
There are a lot of 'sharp' edges in the bore of the collar,( too many IMO) and when broached, I think there are tons of stess risers just waiting for it to break.
a 20$ part that takes 5+ man hours to replace. been there,done that.

zukibrit
10-04-2011, 10:49 AM
its more likley the locker acuating arm (it snaps the lug off the arm that operates the collor) if the lever spins (new kit can be got on ebay) but like been said its a diff out to repair it

macarthur4x4
10-04-2011, 01:39 PM
Its not the actuator lever pin as i had had out when it happened... the diff has only had 2 drives on it since they were ment to be "factory recoed"... and they have always been locked in no engageing on the fly etc... it has to be with the fork im guessing... and yes a complete strip down to fix it...:mad3:

thanks guys...

Public_AenimA
10-04-2011, 04:50 PM
There are two fork tines which the eccentric pin at the bottom of the engagement lever pushes and pulls on. You probably just broke one of the tines off. I did this same thing. The rebuild kit from EI is like 100$ if I remember correctly. I just pulled mine out and welded it back together. I also added a plate to the bottom of the fork so that 'next time' it would hopefully sheer the small pin off of the bottom of the lever. I feel it would be better to sheer the pin off since you do not have to pull the third to perform the repair.

macarthur4x4
10-04-2011, 05:33 PM
There are two fork tines which the eccentric pin at the bottom of the engagement lever pushes and pulls on. You probably just broke one of the tines off. I did this same thing. The rebuild kit from EI is like 100$ if I remember correctly. I just pulled mine out and welded it back together. I also added a plate to the bottom of the fork so that 'next time' it would hopefully sheer the small pin off of the bottom of the lever. I feel it would be better to sheer the pin off since you do not have to pull the third to perform the repair.

Thanks mate.. sounds like a good idea to me.. ill probly do the same kind of thing. What shits me is it was the second drive only ...

Public_AenimA
10-07-2011, 01:03 PM
If your axles are retrofit into something which did not have them originally it is possible you are pulling too hard on the fork and that that is why it broke. On the MB implementation of the pull rod they have a tension limiting spring which also gives you "lock on the fly" if your pull mechanism for the bell crank does not have a spring of some kind in it you might consider adding one.

Also with some careful pick tool work it may be possible to grab the remaining fork tine from under the outboard lip and pull it far enough in that you can engage the locker before you tear it apart. If you can do this it will make removing the third a little easier.