Dont expect it to be a fast build :laughing:

I have been wanting a drop in camper for my M101a2 (btw those fat pigs lose like 300lbs when you convert them to a normal electric brake axle..anyway) So I have been checking craigslist and for sale ads with no luck as they were either crap or over priced (2g's for a 25yo Alaskan camper? yes, you are on crack) And I was just going to get a used pop-up slide when I said screw it, I will BUILD what I want :laughing:

I found the perfect donor for a steal on craigslist: a High build PLAIN Callen camper top. Aluminum skin, steel frame, WAY overbuilt and because this one was a retarded tall one no one wanted I got it for dirt :laughing:

Wagon train FORWARD HOOOOOOOOOOO :flipoff2:

First thing first was to cut a LOT from it :laughing: I just cut it to the next inside steel support. This will make it 4-5" taller than the JK.

So I installed some eye bolts that will stay installed for this very reason, lifted it up and attacked with the sawzall :evil:

Plans: (time dictacting as I will be driving back across the country soon)

Paint it green :laughing:
Remove all the unnessisary steel crap inside.
outside lights
a SOLID rear door unlike the crap in most RVs
scour the RV junkyards and get either 2 large side windows or 4 smaller ones, maybe a front window.
junkyard sunroofs
fully insulate (quite easy with the way this top is made)
inside and outside LED lights.
seal it very well.



Ok now long term or as time allows:
full integrated tub to allow it to be standalone
carpentry type shit
stove/frige
maybe make it a pop-up using the shell to slide up a smaller shell inside.
other expo/RV/camper type crap.


Give me ideas and input as this goes or tell me I am on crack and it will kill a bus load of nuns holding puppies. :D

No shingles please, and yes, for the love of everything good, paint it green, lol. Not quite as "tacticool" as a S-250, but I bet it was way cheaper and should be a bit easier to customize. I'd do whatever possible to get rid of the "kick" on the very back. I always hated that on the old camper shells.

No shingles please, and yes, for the love of everything good, paint it green, lol. Not quite as "tacticool" as a S-250, but I bet it was way cheaper and should be a bit easier to customize. I'd do whatever possible to get rid of the "kick" on the very back. I always hated that on the old camper shells.

I will post when I break $100 into it :laughing: I have to make a recycling run with the steel and aluminum I cut from it.

I kinda like the kick :laughing: good place for "porch lighting" for the tailgate and keep the rain out of the doorway. :flipoff2:

But yes, That bitch is getting painted a matching green ASAP. I will leave the roof white or silver to keep it from becoming an oven.

I despise the bad layout and wasted space in a lot of campers. Why do I need a stove? Baking brownies out in the woods? A sink IN the shower? I would rather have a larger shower and just wash my dishes in it. Carpet?? some nice rubber flooring is so much easier to clean. What do I need a "dining table" for? Or shitty upholstery that is hard to clean and feels like crap. Or fucking wood paneling EVERYWHERE :laughing:
too much wood and too much fluff. There are such nicer alternatives in storage at IKEA or friggen home depot.

I want to keep this LIGHT and clean with it being a nice place to sleep at the end of the day.

Yeah, I have been pondering a similar deal with a truck bed trailer and camper shell for a while. About all I need is a bunk that will fold against the wall, storage for food and supplies and maybe an awning of some sort in case the weather gets wet. When I go camping, I want to spend time outdoors so some folding chairs beside the fire will work as a kitchen/living room/bar, lol.

Get one of these trailers for like $500, ditch the surge brake axle and crap for a normal axle if you desire.
Less work than building a frame/shit for a truck bed and you can not kill them.

I was also looking at the truck bed route a while back :laughing:

I almost went with a normal fiberglass top till I found this one. I was just going to make a "riser" all the way around the bed rail to give it a little more head room.

I've already got a 2WD that we used as a cab donor so it's pretty much a trailer now, I just have to bow in the rails and put a hitch on it. It will pull double duty as an 8' bed to haul whatever won't fit in the Ramcharger and a camping rig for when I decide to camp and not deal with a tent and not want to have to pack up the Ramcharger when I want to go for a ride. I'm too broke to not have everything pull double duty or more, lol.

:smokin:

well I got it mountedish and cut to what will be its running height. This is as short as I want it as any more and you can't really use it as a "camper" without being a dwarf :laughing: I'm 6'1", so ya any more is gunna suck

I also ditched a shit ton of fatassedness off of it. Inside was mounting racks with a backing plate to keep the shelves from hitting the skin. They were 1.5" wide 1/4" thick steel :laughing: at 8 feet long this added up quick, I removed 6 of them :laughing:
I did leave the rectangular tubes as those will be very good for making mounting for storage and also sleeping area.

Then I went and made new mounting surface using the steel I cut off in the first place :D
I picked up some house flashing and sealed the bottom of the sides, caulked it and screwed it in place. Its also sealed on the inside as well and sloped to keep any water even inside condensation to drain away and OUT

Then I did some painting :flipoff2:

ok, I self etching primered all of it (except for the bottom that was still having the sealant dying) and will work on sealing the front tomorow.

:lmao: Awesome :D


The death to tyrannosaurus part.

Cool project :D

questions:

Anyone know a REAL RV/camper junkyard in SoCal and I do not mean the BS google search that pulls up old ass lists that are worthless. I mean eyes on you have seen rv/campers at this yard? (prefer pull my own)

Is there any significant difference between house and RV windows? by this I mean like the short sliding aluminum or vinyl "bathroom" type windows not a fucking bay window :laughing: reason being is they appear solid and are only $50ea and double pane/insulated.

Looking at my trailer I think it would be best to do an outside mounting for the camper using turnbuckles or other adjustable/solid mounting. anyone see any downside to doing this as I see LOTS of upsides :D

Looking good, except for that kick in the back, lol. As far as the mounting, how heavy is it? That frame inside looks like it actually has some weight to it, much more than the average aluminum framed shell. Just bolting it down would probably be the most secure, but also a bigger pain in the ass if you want to remove it. You could do a cable/turnbuckle deal on the upper outside corners like an S250 shelter uses but I would still worry about it shifting around on the trailer bed rails. Maybe add some angle iron to hang down on the inside to rest on the inside of the bed rails to keep it from sliding? It might make it a little more of a hassle to remove as it would have to be lifted up a little more to clear the rails to the sides but it would slide straight off the back with no issues. Then whatever method you use to attach it would only need to control it sliding to the rear and keep the shell from bouncing up.

What plans do you have for a door on the rear? I am assuming the shell was just an open rear like the tall worker transport truck shells on some job sites so there probebly was no provision for a door. So what will you fill the space with? Hard shelled door? Canvas flap? Screen or netting?

I am going to make a subframe and SOLID door (not a wussy ass RV door)
It will fill the entire rear an be bolted in for now but will be standalone so that if I make this a pop-up the frame/door will stay with the lower/tub and the outer shell raise with a folding filler panel above the header.

first I have to use the 20T jack and sguare it all up as that was not a major concern with an open back top. :laughing:

weight: 2 mexicans, 1 Doc-14 and another messican not lifting worth shit were able to get it on my trailer BEFORE I started it on its diet.

its not too bad.

IIRC the glass in RV windows is safety glass like your car windows

oh ya, I think I should just use a roller to paint this :laughing:

IIRC the glass in RV windows is safety glass like your car windows

Its funny how you can never find a junk or free rv/trailer/camper when you WANT one :laughing:

PM Redbulljeep. We bought a ton of stuff for his trailer from an RV salvage place up in Fontana and I know he'll know the name and info for the place. They have EVERYTHING there. Basically 5000 RV's all disassembled and stacked on shelves.

If you're serious about home windows;

They're great and tougher than you think, I have them on my ice shack and they take a fuckin beating. Mine are double pane with argon inbetween and low-e coating on the outside. It's been three years of pulling on the ice every second weekend from mid december to april and they're all fine.

Much, much niced and warmer than rv windows. I can PM you some pics if you're interested, I've used sliders and crank-outs.

should be looking at some RV parts today, found some people parting out :D

http://www.easternmarine.com/Horse-Trailer-Windows/
http://www.sundownerparts.com/.sc/ms/cat/Trailer%20Body%20Components--Windows

Well the bitch is painted :D

and I went over $100 invested as I had to buy a gallon of high quality color matched paint :laughing:
2 nice heavy rolled on coats and its good to go. I will do the roof after I install mounting points and the sunroof/skylights

I also figured the most simple and secure way of mounting it. I welded on some simple loops and run a ratchet strap through it to 2 tie downs on the trailer. This will also be perfect when I make it a pop-up as this will keep everything contained when its "down"
Inside is just simple steel angle that sticks down into the inside to keep it from sliding forward or sideways. It would take a LOT to bend or shear them as they are like a foot long an 1/4" thick :laughing:

I rolled it near the JK to see how it looks. It sits only like 6" above the top of my Jeep so it should be in the good air of my brick like aerodynamics :laughing:

and I located windows :D should pick then up tomorow from a dude parting out an RV. a large curb side slide open with screens, a smaller street side same and 2 front/cabover windows for the nose.
They should be perfect, only problem is the rubber outer gasket things have shrunk over the years. I will either replace it or just silicon the bitches in place.

Now, throw a twin mattress in there ... aaaand done.

Looks much better, lol. Your tiedown setup is pretty much what I was thinking. Quick, easy and versatile. For the windows, if they are the typical floating mount type that pop in the gasket like Jeep windshields, you can get new gaskets to put them in. A local Glass shop can get them for you or you can order from one of the many weatherstrip places on the 'Net. Hell, I got mine from JC Whitney when I put a new windshield in my M715 and it worked flawlessly.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=628319&stc=1&d=1319430303

I'd consider using turnbuckles over the nylon ratchets depending on how often you take the top off. The ratchets aren't going to hold up well to sun exposure over the long run.

Something like this:
http://static.traderscity.com/board/userpix23/19572-turnbuckle-shakle-rigging-1.jpg

You can get them with hooks at each end too.

thanks for your concern, but nylon webbing is a consumable item as far as i am concerned :laughing: this red shit will get replaced with green tubular nylon when i get home anyway. I always inspect and replace worn/sunbaked items.

I went with ratchets over turnbuckles due to ease of use mainly.

Just me, but I would toss one more ratchet strap on the front, just because.

Just one of those things that ends up getting forgotten at some point...

Just me, but I would toss one more ratchet strap on the front, just because.
Not hard, 5 min with the welder.

You thinking it lifting? The front i could put a couple toggle clamps as there is more space than the sides

I really dig this thing.

Not hard, 5 min with the welder.

You thinking it lifting? The front i could put a couple toggle clamps as there is more space than the sides

I doubt that it could given the way you have it strapped, but it's been my experience that is something can fail, it will.

I like the stupid simple way you have it tied now, but a couple of cam latches would be super slick and would look more in the style of the trailer.....

Edit: and yeah, this is one of the more badass looking trailer campers I have seen. Also nice when you

need to haul your shit back to VA....stack it in there and don't worry about the weather.

Edit edit: A latch similar to this:
http://images10.newegg.com/NeweggImage/ProductImageCompressAll300/03-008-262-01.jpg

I have some press to remove aircraft pins floating around the jeep, some simple drilled holes and it would hold the front down in shear, plass they may still have "remove before flight" tags on them :laughing:

I want to own this whole rig.

This thing is pretty cool. Definatly badass.

Glad you did the skulls since that is kinda a trademark for you. Just dont take a picture of the trailer on top of the wife :)

Glad you did the skulls since that is kinda a trademark for you. Just dont take a picture of the trailer on top of the wife :)

shit, you have a wife in Ca? does Bev know about her?

shit, you have a wife in Ca? does Bev know about her?


yes, she does, its the big green needy bitch parked in front of the trailer :laughing:

yes, she does, its the big green needy bitch parked in front of the trailer :laughing:

Funny how you can say your wife blows, and people really don't know what you mean.


:laughing:

yes, she does, its the big green needy bitch parked in front of the trailer :laughing:


if you come through tx. stop by for a bit and well make you a couple of cabinets or a fold up bunk for that bitch. I've got some left over birch from a kitchen job.

Very cool build, the best part is the name."The Doc-14 Tactical Modular Pimpomatic 3000." Thats awesome. Now you just need to get a Jackhawk 9000, available at Wal Mart.

I gots winders !!!!

and a sun roof :flipoff2:

I went to pullapart to hunt down a sun roof and they had a Kenworth with a sleeper there that had sleeper vent windows. So I go to the desk and ask how much for "the sleeper vent windows on the kenworth"

and the mouthbreather who runs the register (no I am not kidding, mouth agape, glazed look) has not clue WTF I am talking about so he is searching his little database.

uuuuuuhhh vent windows are $10

:grinpimp:

2 windows and a sunroof for $40

But...ummm... why is there a fetus drawn in whiteout on the inside of the sunroof :laughing:

anyway, I install the sunroof and it makes a HUGE difference in inside light. Sealed the everloving shit out of it as well. I will have to tie in some of the roof support steel later but that can wait.

Then me and Bill went and picked up the rest of the windows from an RV that was parting out and got a great deal as Bill needed the fridge.
So I got 1 large window, 1 smaller and 2 small "nose" windows.

Now here is the problem: the large window is so large I will not in any way be able to fit my kenworth window :laughing: slight measurement on my part :laughing: but more on this after the pics.

in its age the glazing rubber has shrunk. now should I go and get replacement glaving or just use black silicon with a nice smooth finger radius as the glazing?

I mean does it really make a fawking difference?

questions:
The big ass window is LARGE, like will take up 80% of one side. my concerns are as follows;

Use a smaller window as glass sucks for insulating or just make an insulating curtain like I was going to for all of them anyway and not worry about it.

I will be losing the center support tube and I want the roof to be able to be used for storage. this thing is overkill built anyway and you can see the steel subframe in the other pictures. So should I just double the horizontal top tube or should I run a new middle vertical one that goes over the window at the midpoint?

roof top coating? what is best?

I would ditch the large window and just use the smaller ones.


Caulk the shit out of it.

Sno coat is what a friend uses on all the trailers he fixes. He is in the rv business.

ya, I am also not installing them the same as they were. fuck that trim ring bullshit, they are getting self tapping screws from the outside frame :D

still debating the big window... it would be nice.

Big window looks like a slider for between cab an camper. I am disappointed I figured you would go over the local you pull it and grab a couple doors and use the parts to give yourself roll up and down windows!

Edit- Put the big window in. It would be sweet.

yes, she does, its the big green needy bitch parked in front of the trailer :laughing:

Ah yes, the other woman. :laughing:

Bitch has some nasty mood swings though.:eek:

Nothing to really add but I sanded the frames, self etching primed, painted and then lay the 1st of 2 beads of new black silicon glazing.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111027_172005.jpg?t=1319771141
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111027_172014.jpg?t=1319771124

They look so much better and "modern" instead of 1974 :laughing:


Question: The back wall/door.
I need to make a whole wall and I can just do it in the same construction as the rest but I saw a vinyl hollow core "privacy fence" at Home Depot and was wondering if this, bonded to a steel frame, hollow space filled with insulation would make a good wall and in turn door for the ass end?

Its outside UV safe vinyl, its easy to shape, it will be non-load bearing other than itself and will be easy to insulate/waterproof.


Or should I just fucking start welding and find a couple big ass sheets of aluminum for skin? :laughing:
I could use plywood and shingles? :flipoff2:

the hard part is the fucking door :rolleyes: I want a good solid well sealing door.

I dig it.
Make sure you don't use latex caulk, I made that mistake and had nice black streaks on my RV and a moldy cab over sleeper.:homer:

Question: The back wall/door.
I need to make a whole wall and I can just do it in the same construction as the rest but I saw a vinyl hollow core "privacy fence" at Home Depot and was wondering if this, bonded to a steel frame, hollow space filled with insulation would make a good wall and in turn door for the ass end?

Its outside UV safe vinyl, its easy to shape, it will be non-load bearing other than itself and will be easy to insulate/waterproof.

How much temp differential are you looking at? If you're gonna go somewhere with it that gets to freezing temp, not a problem (with a mild heat source inside).

Lower than that, and that vinyl privacy fence will bleed heat in between the insulated cells more than you can keep up with.

For the back wall, I'd go with steel. Mainly because I'm an asshole and I like overbuilding stuff, but also because I have an odd plan to make a door like on the back of an M113 and similar APCs. Small walk in door, but the whole wall could fold down to use as a ramp. Might not fit your application or intended use, but since you, like me, don't have a lot of cargo room, a trailer with room for larger cargo like a 4 wheeler, lawn mower or anything else that would be easier to load with a ramp might be useful. You could make a flange with a seal on the trailer and shell and then pull the tailgate off the trailer and mount the ramp to the tailgate hinges. Might also be cool to have if you are camping where it's warm so you could leave the ramp down and just make a zippered screen to snap onto the opening for a tent-like screen door. Just some thoughts...

i plan on doing the opposite :D i plan on making the back like a hatchback with a smallr door so it makes easy loading of gear.

And makes a nifty shade area when up

How much temp differential are you looking at? If you're gonna go somewhere with it that gets to freezing temp, not a problem (with a mild heat source inside).

Lower than that, and that vinyl privacy fence will bleed heat in between the insulated cells more than you can keep up with.

I want it to be 4 season anywhere in the lower 48 capable. Ya...i don't think that fencing will work. :(

Make from scratch :laughing:

I gots mothafuckin winders and shit :flipoff2:

Front windows

street side windows.
I spaced them to leave good vertical interior area for tall shit like my heater/microwave/toaster oven stack or for anything that will be high without interfering with ventilation.

Now mind you the windows have not been finish sealed (hence the still silver screw heads) and the glass has not been tinted.

curb side big ass window :laughing: sorry but it was dark when I got this pig in there.

I just have to double some beams for my own reassurance and then I will start insulating it while gathering parts for the rear/door

you're gonna need to put a tilt out bunk beside the second window for Chister when Bev goes camping with you.


other than that I like it.


maybe some 1" sq. tube on the side like hitch points so you can insert shelves for a camp stove and table?

you're gonna need to put a tilt out bunk beside the second window for Chister when Bev goes camping with you.



why do you think I am adding back roof support and around the sunroof :flipoff2:

edit: oh ya, and total investment including stuff just passed $200.

i plan on doing the opposite :D i plan on making the back like a hatchback with a smallr door so it makes easy loading of gear.

And makes a nifty shade area when up

I had one like that.

The windows look really good. Doin' a hell of a job.

nothing more really but sealed, tinted, added skulls, siliconed and finished the windows.

Yes the skull fade was needed to match the trailer and the Jeep :laughing:

nice love handles :flipoff2:

wanna know why your gay:
nothing more really but sealed, tinted, added skulls, siliconed and finished the windows.

Yes the skull fade was needed to match the trailer and the Jeep :laughing:

Your reply=

nice love handles :flipoff2:

I will put money that you are a tubbier bitch than me :flipoff2:

You suck at taping. What's with all the kindergarden finger paint overspray?



:flipoff2:

Better pics might help to see the detailing.

wanna know why your gay:


Would it have been better if he had said "nice tits"?


:laughing:

You suck at taping. What's with all the kindergarden finger paint overspray?



:flipoff2:

Better pics might help to see the detailing.

I wanted a fat chick outline but your mom would not stand still. something about the spray paint getting in her eyes :flipoff2:

Later, I have not figured if I want to doo it as sorta a midline stripe or leave it as is

I wanted a fat chick outline but your mom would not stand still. something about the spray paint getting in her eyes :flipoff2:


My Mom has a way of laughing at noobs like us that makes us feel warm and fuzzy inside and at the same time still makes us look over our shoulder.

Just sayin'


Never mind the pimp decorating, get your specs (and performance envelop) sorted out, and post how you're going to achieve it.

Drawing board to implementation. Either in flux, all good.

Of course you have multiple "spec" variables in mind: money, time, effort, capability, capacity, materiel, project end time, and "is it finished enough".


Who the fawk doesn't? It's looking good so far.

:D

:smokin:

Beadlocks? On a camper?

Beadlocks? On a camper?


Shrug.
They came that way from the .gov - more spares :D

wanna know why your gay:


Your reply=



I will put money that you are a tubbier bitch than me :flipoff2:


Haha. I didnt say I was in better shape! :flipoff2:

Regardless, pretty sweet build. I've been wanting to build something like this.

I have to insulate and line it and I have to figure out how to make an entire rear wall and door.

question: should I drill 1/4" holes in the steel beams and foam fill them? will that make a significant change in insulation to make it worth my time?

Beadlocks? On a camper?

There are no inserts in them, they are just recentered hmmwv beadlocks. And thanks to the great job at getting me the centers from C&M Performance Machine they match the JK.

Just think of them as "split rims" :laughing:

Also it allows me to run the same rim and tire on everything.

question: should I drill 1/4" holes in the steel beams and foam fill them? will that make a significant change in insulation to make it worth my time?

This I very, very much doubt. The steel will just conduct the heat/cold around the foam insulation.

I have to insulate and line it and I have to figure out how to make an entire rear wall and door.

question: should I drill 1/4" holes in the steel beams and foam fill them? will that make a significant change in insulation to make it worth my time?
I would not drill and insulate, just creates more opportunity for rust. I would cut foamboard for in between.

I bet you could use some old aluminum truck caps as raw material to make up a fairly light back door section. I have always wanted to make a shower curtain for around my rear hatch on my VW bus. Toss a solar bag on the roof and bam, warm showers.

i rubbed one out in this today. i'll clean it up tomorrow for you.:flipoff2:

i rubbed one out in this today. i'll clean it up tomorrow for you.:flipoff2:

thats fine, guess what I was doing at your computer while I watched the house?

ya, thats not spilled soda on the keyboard :flipoff2:


You feel like being rented with your truck should this craigslist dude get back to be on a parts camper?
I may have stumbled across ALL of my remaining needed components :laughing:

You feel like being rented with your truck should this craigslist dude get back to be on a parts camper?


wait whut?

wait whut?

was going to borrow bill to haul a "parts camper" that I was going to get for the door and tub but it appears that camper may not end up that way :laughing:

bummer.

I just realized a friend of mine still has a 30' 5th wheel I may scrounge the interior from for the same purpose as yours, just in a box trailer.

thanks for the motivation.

when the wife tells me "you're not buying a camper" it usually means i'm buying a camper.:laughing:

when you said too nice to cut up, i thought it was a fixxer upper. doesn't appear to need much fixin to me.:smokin:

when the wife tells me "you're not buying a camper" it usually means i'm buying a camper.:laughing:

when you said too nice to cut up, i thought it was a fixxer upper. doesn't appear to need much fixin to me.:smokin:

happy links

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=eccotemp&hl=en&safe=off&client=ms-android-verizon&pwst=1&prmd=ivns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1280&bih=800&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=13279671581082725456&sa=X&ei=oRm0TryMC-7WiALW4qB_&ved=0CHMQ8gIwAA
eccotemp L5 hot water heater



http://www.amazon.com/SEPTLS373MH18B-Heater-Portable-Buddy-Heaters/dp/B0045WT6N6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1320426194&sr=8-7

Big Buddy cat type heater, get filter/adapter



So for around 300 you get a hot water heater that ill be overkill and a heater that is overkill and much easier to work with/install than normal RV shit.
AND you can pull them out to use in the other RV or garge :D

I've been using the big buddy for night time in my ice shack for several years now. Works great, except it's got no T-stat, so it either gets fuggin hot, or fuggin freezin.



This does----->http://www.mrheater.com/product.aspx?catid=57&id=361

And it's in the same ballpark price wise.

pimp :D but is the heater blower and t-stat DC or AC (cant veiw the PDF right now) ?

If its DC with a little ac power plug that is easy to make run on bat power, if its AC only I would rather go with something that I can run without the serious power draw of an AC inverter.

I am 99% sure that the heater may be fully ran without any type of batteries or electrical power. The big buddy has a place for a bunch of D cells to run the fan, but it's not required for operation. I think this one is similar, since if you needed 120 VAC all the time it wouldn't have a AA ignitor...

It has a 120 VAC blower (no transformer or any electronics shown between the household plug and the blower motor).

AA battery for electronic ignition.

It calls the T-stat a thermo-bulb or something, dosen't sound electrical at all.

NOTE: This heater requires an external regulator (unlike the big buddy). No big deal, as long as you know.

I will be calling Mr Heater to verify all this and will report.





Here's a small part of the manual:

SAFETY DEVICE
This heater has a pilot with an Oxygen Depletion Sensor
(ODS) safety shut off system. The ODS/pilot shuts
off the heater if there is not enough fresh air.
IGNITION SYSTEM
– The heater is equipped with an electronic manual ignitor.
This system requires no matches, or other source
to light heater, but does require one AA battery to operate
ignitor. (AA Battery included).
To install or replace battery unscrew the ignitor cap
(red button), insert battery positive (+) terminal up
and replace cap.
(AA Battery included)
THERMOSTATIC CONTROL
These heaters have a control valve with a thermostat
sensing bulb. This results in the greatest heater comfort
and may result in lower bills.
These heaters also include an electrical blower. The
blower switch has three positions: MANUAL, OFF and
AUTO. In AUTO, the blower will turn on and off as the
heater cycles on and off. On MANUAL, the blower will run
continuously. To turn blower off, use the OFF position.

Just got off the phone with the Mr Heater guy.

Absolutely no electricity is needed in any form.

The T-stat works off the heat from the unit.

WTF?!
You promised pics of this door you have been working on. Get to posting bitch!:flipoff2:

Digging this so far Gil! Keep it up bro!
Scott

Digging this so far Gil! Keep it up bro!
Scott

+1 this is really clever:smokin:

WTF?!
You promised pics of this door you have been working on. Get to posting bitch!:flipoff2:

The woman has spoketh! Must delver results!

WTF?!
You promised pics of this door you have been working on. Get to posting bitch!:flipoff2:
Somebodies getting impatient!

hey uploading images via a Xoom is not as easy as you think :flipoff2:

got the frame done with some free steel from Bills garage that usssd to be a plexiglass display rack :laughing:

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111105_134950.jpg?t=1320638981

door is hung and the entire rear opensss like a hatchback

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111105_143125.jpg?t=1320638910

I even went and welded in what I saw as the most simple solution for surface to mount door weatherstripping to

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111105_152027.jpg?t=1320638800

Speaking of Bill..I fucking hate him :laughing: I have this knak of finding anything for anyone for dirt cheap as long as I am not looking for me.

I was looking for a "tub" to use for inside the trailer. I found this and could not cut it up, It was too big for anything I could use and at the price there was no way in fuck i could let it sit there.

Bill took custody :laughing:
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111105_165119.jpg?t=1320638684

Well I skinned it in leftover aluminum that I cut off in the shortening and window installs, I layered it "siding" style and sealed each seam. Then I installed my last window today as it was raining out and being sucky. I will hunt down a door window this week, i aam lening toward a porthole.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111105_173427.jpg?t=1320638421
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111105_173405.jpg?t=1320638637

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111106_160059.jpg?t=1320638070

It needs paint, trim and itss assortment of weatherstrripping so keep that in mind. Also door knob and lock will be done this week and maybe the interior with the rain permitting

Damn - we Europeans may not be able to build nice tube buggies... but yall don't know how to build a good looking camper instead. :barf:
Not saying I don't like it - it just looks like ass. :shaking::flipoff2:

I think it looks good....especially considering the pretty lowbuck theme of it all.

Damn - we Europeans may not be able to build nice tube buggies... but yall don't know how to build a good looking camper instead. :barf:
Not saying I don't like it - it just looks like ass. :shaking::flipoff2:
Form follows function and i am at around $250 into it.

What is a "good looking" camper anyway :laughing: they all are diffrent levels of ugly :flipoff2:
Seriously, what looks like "ass"? Because if something looks hack, half assed, dangerous, shady or fucktarded I may be able to fix it at this point.

I think in it's current state the rear door looks like ass. But I realize it is no where near finished, I realize the edges are trimmed out yet, it's not painted, that the sealant is only like half applied and so on. So unlike some jackasses I just sit and wait for your updates.

I do have a question though. How much space is there between the tailgate and the "hatchback" when the gate is up? Any concern with water shedding down while you are tooling down the highway and pooling in the void between the two "doors" and then creeping through your man door?

I do have a question though. How much space is there between the tailgate and the "hatchback" when the gate is up? Any concern with water shedding down while you are tooling down the highway and pooling in the void between the two "doors" and then creeping through your man door?

There is like a 1/2" gap at the bottom of the trailer tailgate when its up, the m101 tailgate was made to hold stuff in that has size but not like dirt/gravel. There is aroundan inch of clearance between the camper wall/hatch and the tailgate when its all up.

No worries for water at all.

There is like a 1/2" gap at the bottom of the trailer tailgate when its up, the m101 tailgate was made to hold stuff in that has size but not like dirt/gravel. There is aroundan inch of clearance between the camper wall/hatch and the tailgate when its all up.

No worries for water at all.

LMFAO! I forgot we're dealing with a military trailer here. Much like the M715 gates. Carry on with the bad ass command base. LOL

I was with you until the rear lift gate window. Personally, I would have left it out - for the purpose of being able to lift the rear gate and camp with it in the lifted position, by adding a "skirt" to the lifted wall. That would essentially add more camping space, and give you a nice "foyer" for gear, entry/exit, etc.

I was with you until the rear lift gate window. Personally, I would have left it out - for the purpose of being able to lift the rear gate and camp with it in the lifted position, by adding a "skirt" to the lifted wall. That would essentially add more camping space, and give you a nice "foyer" for gear, entry/exit, etc.

Still can be done, its not like the hatch is waterproof anyway with the huge door seal :laughing: so the window makes no diffrence as the hatch would require a tarp or some shit anyway

Form follows function and i am at around $250 into it.

What is a "good looking" camper anyway :laughing: they all are diffrent levels of ugly :flipoff2:
Seriously, what looks like "ass"? Because if something looks hack, half assed, dangerous, shady or fucktarded I may be able to fix it at this point.

Well it probably wouldn't have hurt to spend an extra 100 bucks and fiberglass that fucker instead of using pieced together leftover shop siding...Kinda reminds me of that wood camper abortion in the other thread. :laughing:

As for the safety part - the steel frame looks good, I think it'll hold up. I just don't find the looks of it very appealing at this point.

Well it probably wouldn't have hurt to spend an extra 100 bucks and fiberglass that fucker instead of using pieced together leftover shop siding...Kinda reminds me of that wood camper abortion in the other thread. :laughing:

As for the safety part - the steel frame looks good, I think it'll hold up. I just don't find the looks of it very appealing at this point.

You do realize the "siding" he used is the siding off the damn top right? He cut the height of the top down and is using MATCHING siding on the rear hatch.

i am wondering if i should gas ram the hatch or just leave it manual.

Ya, i was unable to finish the seam sealing and paint due to rain. It will look exactly the same as the rest of the outside except the "ribbing" on the door will go vertical. I have to go junkyard hunting for a door window.

So should i go "normal" van type side window? An actual boat type porthole? Or 1970's bubble van type? :D

i am wondering if i should gas ram the hatch or just leave it manual.

Ya, i was unable to finish the seam sealing and paint due to rain. It will look exactly the same as the rest of the outside except the "ribbing" on the door will go vertical. I have to go junkyard hunting for a door window.

So should i go "normal" van type side window? An actual boat type porthole? Or 1970's bubble van type? :D

Tear drop bubble FTW! :flipoff2:
I would personally use a hack saw to cut a crescent moon into it and put a piece of smoked poly behind it. Ya know since the whole thing "looks like shit" anyways :flipoff2:

Is the door big enough to put a van type side window with a slider built into the bottom in it?

no bubble windows :( so i got a amberlamps skide door window for $12 :D

Not much done, got dark and cold quick today.

Got the door window installed, its a nice solid window.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111108_173557.jpg?t=1320809494

And then at the hinge top I made an overlap seal from this nice weatherstripping used to seal garage doors. Its sandwiched in place under some aluminum channel and will definitely stop wind/rain and is easily replaceable when it wears out.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111108_173646.jpg?t=1320809684

Who taught you how to caulk? :barf::flipoff2:

Window turned out awesome and I was wondering how you would solve the piano hinge seal nice work

Who taught you how to caulk? :barf::flipoff2:

Window turned out awesome and I was wondering how you would solve the piano hinge seal nice work

You never make fun of another mans caulk :flipoff2:


It was just "recycling" :laughing: as i was sealing the windows and tooling it I took the excess and worked it into the seams "putty knife" style. The excess will be trimmed and you will never see it once its primed and painted.

Rear door(s) are done :D paint is mostly done, I have to do the skulls :laughing:
Installed "real" door knobs and a dead bolt.

I also made a couple ladder rungs for getting access to to the roof for storage.

You reckon you put enough windows in it? :laughing:

Looking good though now that it's painted. I'll be watching how the interior goes with interest.

You reckon you put enough windows in it? :laughing:

Looking good though now that it's painted. I'll be watching how the interior goes with interest.

No shit. Those windows give me a case of the WTFs. I mean, I like it, but in an "ugly girl that gives off the right pheromones so I'm strangely attracted and might wind up bangin' 'er" sort of way....

You reckon you put enough windows in it? :laughing:

Looking good though now that it's painted. I'll be watching how the interior goes with interest.

you gotta be able to see what way the zombies are coming from :flipoff2:

But seriously, windows make it more open/airy even if they can be a pain in the ass to insulate. It also allows you to air it out as I have learned from extended time in tents that a small space can get assfunkified in a short time without the ability to dry/vent everything well. :laughing:

I wanted it to feel bigger inside than it actualy is and the windows help a lot, I feel the white lining I will do this week should do the same.

Looks good Doc. I'm not sold on the skulls around every item on it but it's not my trailer so that don't matter. What's next interior?

Looks good Doc. I'm not sold on the skulls around every item on it but it's not my trailer so that don't matter. What's next interior?


Its got to match teh tow vehicle :flipoff2:

Yup, inside lining next

Its got to match teh tow vehicle :flipoff2:

Yup, inside lining next

Does the tow vehicle have skulls around every window opening? :confused:

The skulls on the Jeep look good in person and in photos - the skulls around *everything* end up looking like a bad seam sealing job from a distance in the pics. Maybe it looks better in person?

I agree. Ditch the skulls around the trim and leave it along the base. It will look much cleaner.

Does the tow vehicle have skulls around every window opening? :confused:

The skulls on the Jeep look good in person and in photos - the skulls around *everything* end up looking like a bad seam sealing job from a distance in the pics. Maybe it looks better in person?

This was my thoughts. The jeep is done subtly this is a bit much. Get it dirty wont matter then LOL

who know, its only paint :laughing:

i'm working on some penis stencils to make this look better.:smokin:

Interior insulated and taped
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111119_142747.jpg?t=1321764024

Lights installed
_http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/IMG_20111119_142804.jpg?t=1321759031

who know, its only paint :laughing:

Honestly dude, the black paint around the windows does look like shit. I would make it green, and leave the skull pattern at the bottom.

let me try something this week and see how it looks

Doc whats the interior going to be finished with?

I vote wood paneling it will give it that "warm" look :flipoff2:

Doc whats the interior going to be finished with?

I vote wood paneling it will give it that "warm" look :flipoff2:

Leaning towatd that white plastic shit you line bathrooms with....or stucco :flipoff2:

I could do it in luan/melamine/press board as it is cheap (half theprice of the plastic shit) but wonder how long term it will handle just normal moisture exposure

Leaning towatd that white plastic shit you line bathrooms with....or stucco :flipoff2:

I could do it in luan/melamine/press board as it is cheap (half theprice of the plastic shit) but wonder how long term it will handle just normal moisture exposure

Unless it's fastened every 6" it will sag on the ceiling and probably buckle on the walls. That shit is NOT temperature differential friendly at ALL.

Its going to be self tapping screwed to all the "studs".
So stick with the plastic shit ?

Keep the skulls!! You need a large skull that covers the entire top, and some biohazard symbols hehe. Don't listen to the f'n f's who are not likin the paint. Skulls rule.

Unless it's fastened every 6" it will sag on the ceiling and probably buckle on the walls. That shit is NOT temperature differential friendly at ALL.

^^^ This, and it's heavier than buckshot filled shit.

Its going to be self tapping screwed to all the "studs".
So stick with the plastic shit ?

I would. And it's easier to seal between the panels with that clear draft caulking.

well its going on pause :D I have to get ready for the drive back east so no new additions or modifications till I get it "home"

well its going on pause :D I have to get ready for the drive back east so no new additions or modifications till I get it "home"

Oh come awn... just stop at every home depot/lowes/RV junkyard (or anytype of junkyard for that matter) between there and here, and do one thing at each. I'll bet you'll have it finished by the time you hit Tennessee. :flipoff2:

well its going on pause :D I have to get ready for the drive back east so no new additions or modifications till I get it "home"

You pulling it with you?

Guess you'll find out in a hurry if it's anchored properly. :D

yes, i am towing it :D it handles well. I did just added a hitch extension to it so it is not as twitchy while backing up

Build thread on the Jeep?

Sweet build.

Best thing i have ever built :laughing: sitting in new mexico wind right now being softly rocked to sleep withoutbeing curled in a little ball. Tows well with not as much wind push as i thought

Best thing i have ever built :laughing: sitting in new mexico wind right now being softly rocked to sleep withoutbeing curled in a little ball. Tows well with not as much wind push as i thought

nice.:smokin:

good to hear Doc

Love your work! The windows are a bit... funky... but overall brilliant. Can we see some photos of it where it belongs (i.e. behind the Jeep in the ass-end of nowhere)?

Does the Jeep have a build thread?

Looks great to me. Great Job!

The jeep build can be found in assorted locations here but mainly on the front page of jkowners.com

So, what heater did you end up with?

I ordered the 20,000 btu wallmount with ceramic plates from mr. heater to replace my big buddy in the ice shack. This year the little guy, 13 months, will be sleeping on the top bunk so the t-stat should prove invaluable.

I received the 10,000 btu model by mistake, and since it has no t-stat I shipped it back, still waiting on the correct model.


I had to order from the states thru e-bay since the wallmount's are confusingly illegal here in canuckistan.

Still hopin' it makes it past the border.

Updates?

^^ x2 !!

Civilian version:

removed from CL

No updates, finishing other projects first. I did pick up a fiberglass cabover thing and I am stuck as to if I should finish this and use the fiberglass for the tub or sell this (it is usable as is for a camper) and build the fiberglass one in a much smaller lighter unit :laughing:

I will post pics and get input.

should I:
a) cut the tub out of this and use it for the liner of the current build
b) sell the old camper for what I have in it or less (Its main thing was a place to live while going cross country) and build a lighter, smaller, more aerodynamic version out of the new one.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/2012-03-01_17-20-45_1.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/2012-03-01_17-20-34_93.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/2012-03-01_17-22-02_274.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f177/usmcdoc14/2012-03-01_17-20-56_999.jpg

Mind you this one only cost me $50 so either way does not hurt :laughing:

Build a lighter more aerodynamic version

What does the inside look like? I'm assuming some sort of cabinet deal with some sort of folding bed? I think I would avoid mounting that exterior to anything I own like the Black Plague. It looks like a camper for a gay man's Subaru Brat. Looking at it closer, it seems it's just a couple benches inside? I can't help but think that you could build a better custom setup.

What does the inside look like? I'm assuming some sort of cabinet deal with some sort of folding bed? I think I would avoid mounting that exterior to anything I own like the Black Plague. It looks like a camper for a gay man's Subaru Brat. Looking at it closer, it seems it's just a couple benches inside? I can't help but think that you could build a better custom setup.

its a tub, the shape on the inside is the same on the out :laughing: There is nothing but bare fiberglass so it literally would be however I want it.

But instead of steel like the old one I would do it in fiberglassed wood like a boat :D cut it so it is a pop-up from that flat area on the side, make the "cabover" bigger and do the interior however I want.

you can never leave anything alone, can you?:laughing:

you can never leave anything alone, can you?:laughing:

look who is talking :flipoff2: you still have the same toyota as when I left? :laughing:

is that a crack running down the middle of it?

Maybe hack below the rain drip/rail so you can raise the roof.

is that a crack running down the middle of it?

Maybe hack below the rain drip/rail so you can raise the roof.


nope, just dirt. The only damage is some corners are roughed up and there is a crack in the floor. all easy to fix fiberglass areas.

I was thinking split at at the lower drip rail/bump and raise the entire sides. Then have swing down/up spacers for the front and rear that also double duty to "lock" it in place once you raise it.
The door I would leave be, it would just have a sill that is 1' higher when you lift the top.

It would sit maybe 3-4" higher than now to fit the side panels and sliders in place, then when raised it would be a full foot or more higher. Fiberglass in more supports to the base so its self supporting even if held up on stands and widen the inside with "storage".
Leave the roof alone except maybe a sunroof.
leave the drivers side window alone.
delete the passenger side windo for a replacement panel with 1/2 smaller windows and vents for the stove/whatever. also water/elect hookup and whatever other outside access shit I need.

If I can drop the floor of the cabover to allow sleeping. If not that will be reinforced and the clean water tank put there for gravity feed. I could also make a "slide out" that slides under it ...but thats just a whatever idea, I only realy want it to go up not out

Ok, the old shell for sale on here :D

So I will start a new thread for the fiberglass one when I start on that. :laughing: More tech because now I will try my hands at layered composites :grinpimp:

I'll be watching to see how you can make that giz blob of a camper into something "tactical" :D I think I could dig the fiberglass one if it wasn't so rounded.

should I:
a) cut the tub out of this and use it for the liner of the current build
b) sell the old camper for what I have in it or less (Its main thing was a place to live while going cross country) and build a lighter, smaller, more aerodynamic version out of the new one.
Mind you this one only cost me $50 so either way does not hurt :laughing:

Wow that thing is cool! I've never seen a cap like that. What bed size does it fit? Looks like something like that would fit well in my Dakota quad cab bed.

Give you $100 for it :flipoff2:

Your build is way cooler.