Before I get bashed, I know this isn't the best platform to work with...but I really like this truck and currently have a '99 4dr with 100k on the clock and it runs like a dream. :)

With that in mind, I'd like to get some ideas on how I can turn my 7k-lb rig into a great expedition vehicle. I will never climb bolders with it and I like my rig w/o big dents in it...but I would like it to be able to handle multiple terrain elements...again, nothing extreme.

This rig must also be able to drive comfortable for long distances on the highway; which is one reason I'm shying away from a front axle swap.

I know the 1/2t IFS is weak and this is where my current attention is. I'd like to retain the 6lug pattern b/c I have almost brand new 17x9 Mickey Thompson's.

Through my research, I believe GM did make a 6lug 14bolt rear for the 3/4t - is that true? I've read it's plug&play with the existing mounts....

However, for upgrading the front, I haven't been able to find 3/4t components that are 6lug...any ideas? Is it true that the 8lug GM fronts will not match up with the mounting pts on my Tahoe and it will need to be frabricated? If all the above are true, are there any aftermarket that cover these heavy duty components for 6lug Tahoes?

I'm currently cranked about 2" with blocks in the rear. After reading about the Dick Cepek (extreme suspensions) IFS 6" lift, I'm really impressed with the durability of this setup and may go that route. Any thoughts?

I've got TONS more ideas, but I thought I'd keep this first one dedicated to heavier suspension parts!!!

I look forward to getting to know all you guys. I've been going through lots of posts and checking out photos and I'm seriously blown away by the talent here!

First off, check out my build thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=853123

But note, that it's a 3/4 ton. I wouldn't have wasted any time/money on a half ton. GM's IFS just doesn't cut it, and neither does that 10 bolt they use in the rear...


Sound like you have a nice rig, so my vote would be to SAS. Don't even think about that 6" IFS lift. For that price, you can do the SAS.
You mention ride quality as a reason for not going with a solid axle. Well, I can tell you that my '77 K5 and '84 K10 both ride better than the 88-98 chevy's that I've owned. Don't run a ridiculous lift spring on the front, and it'll ride just fine, and be reliable to boot. F*** idler arms.

As for that 6-lug 14bolt you speak of... My dad's truck has one from the factory, and I've done quite a bit of research to try and find out why. My conclusion? They just felt like putting it in there that day!

Here are the specs on his truck (which he bought brand new in '98):
1998 K1500 4x4 (not Z71)
Ext Cab short bed
4.3L V6
Automatic
3.73 gears
6-lug 14b semi floater
3/4ton rear springs

Maybe you can look for a similar factory freak in a salvage yard to rob that axle form. Why they thought that a fullsize with a 4.3L would need a 3/4 rear axle, is beyond me.


Good luck!

Holy...an axle that heavy on a 4.3?? Would have been nice if they put that in my 5.7L!

I'm a newb so bare with this question....instead of using springs up front, what about independent coils?? I've seen the solid swaps with springs on Tahoes, but I've always wondered they don't use coils.... (i'm new to suspension mods, apologize if the answer is obvious)

everything will bolt up under your tahoe if you swap the SF14 bolt. you will need to get a crossover u-joint to match your existing driveshat to the new rearend or just upgrade your driveshaft yoke to match the rear. everything else is straight bolt in.

i put one of these under my dad's 95 when the 10 bolt let go. no more rearend trouble. his truck was a 350/5 spd/ 33's.

Hey like your post, screw the A holes who bash on here don't worry about them. As far as your build goes I personally would steer clear of a 14 bolt 6 lug it's not a full floater. My second part of advice, don't build your rig around rims. Ditch the 6 lug you can sell your rims for good money. Dont sacrifice durability for looks. As far as ride quality goes a sas if steering is done properly will ride very nice. I have a 92 chevy on tons that I daily drive in the winter 80 miles to and from work. Good luck and have fun!

And as far as coilover goes I hope you have deep pockets. Sweet setup yes lots and lots and lots of money to do this. Did I mention it's really expensive. And if your not gonna be crawling with it coilovers are not what I would use. I run 52 inch stock rear leaf springs on my front axle obviously with the overload spring removed.

Hey like your post, screw the A holes who bash on here don't worry about them. As far as your build goes I personally would steer clear of a 14 bolt 6 lug it's not a full floater. My second part of advice, don't build your rig around rims. Ditch the 6 lug you can sell your rims for good money. Dont sacrifice durability for looks. As far as ride quality goes a sas if steering is done properly will ride very nice. I have a 92 chevy on tons that I daily drive in the winter 80 miles to and from work. Good luck and have fun!

Full floater - what are the advantages?

With regards to the rims, I've been thinking the same thing to selling the setup and just biting the bullet...plus an 8lug Tahoe would look pretty sweet to guys that know HD setups!

You mentioned driving on 1 tons. If instead of going with 3/4's, I head straight to 1t's, what are the advantages/disadvantages?

I am converting to hydroboost on this truck. I have a BRAND NEW AC Delco complete setup sitting in my garage and this may be my winter project. I currently have 3/4t calipers on the front (but it would be cheap to buy new 1t's)..so stopping this heavy beast will be no problem.

Also, when you say expensive for coils. Can you guess a total cost (labor + parts) rounding to the thousands?

Really depends on what you want to do with the truck. Going much larger than a 35" tire and adding a locker, I'd look at replacing the stock 10 bolt. If you aren't going with large tires, the 10 bolt will hold up just fine. It is a much maligned axle that gets some spillover hate from its little brother; the truly terrible small GM 10bolt. The big 10 bolt is easily the equivalent of the Dana 44 and some would argue even a bit stronger. The small 10 bolt never went into the full size trucks/SUVs. It was limited to the S-10, Astro and cars. It did make it into the LS1 powered F-Body cars which is probably why you hear about them destroying rear ends with mild power adders and sticky tires. Not one of GM's smarter moves...but that doesn't apply here.

If you want a bigger axle, the semi-float 14b is a fine choice. The ONLY reason to go with a full floater is if you are going to run big tires, lockers and a big power in some combination. If simple overland travel is what you want, the 14b Full floater is overkill.

The front suspension is what would concern me. Big tires are going to beat up the suspension. Better shocks are a must. You will need to do some sort of lift to fit those larger tires. Big tires also take their toll on wheel bearings. You mentioned a 9" wheel so I suspect you aren't going that large. Heavy duty tie rods are a must for any IFS setup that will encounter moderate wheeling.

Just need to examine what it is you are actually looking to do.

Thank you Ivy, some really good intel all around.

Right now I have 33's and I'm thinking of moving to 35's...but b/c this is a dd and will see a lot of highway, I don't think i'm going larger then 35's.

I'd like to keep the total lift within 6" b/c I'm not looking to create a very tall truck, just a very "tough" one. As an example, if I were to take this truck on a 1yr expedition throughout the US and some back country, I want it to be able to handle quite a bit of terrain.

I was looking at this build today...really sharp b/c he keeps the total lift @ 6"
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=661346

I guess the main thing I was thinking is that you will want to build for the terrain you are going after. Don't get dragged into a spec race where you are concerned with numbers. I was taught that 4x4 is to get you out of where 4x2 got you stuck. Build only what you need to reach your destination.

If you just want it to get you places other vehicles might not go, then you aren't going to have to change out too much. ARB locker is nice because you can turn it off and not stress parts when not off road. There are also things you can do to your 10 bolt to make it survive longer although a build on the rear doesn't always make sense when 14 bolt axles are so plentiful.

If you are planning on getting to those places and then driving the truck through 5' of Alabama mud or rock crawling in Moab then you will want to look at big upgrades. I'd go solid axle up front at that point. Find a suitable Dana 60 for the nose and a 14 bolt FF for the rear and lockers for both. Run your big tires and drive anywhere you damn well please.

Check this build out. It's the best of all worlds...not too much lift, great ride and handling, super tough components, and should be as reliable as a new one. Wouldn't be super cheap, but the money is spent in all the right places. You could go with 35's instead of 37's and forego the engine swap obviously, but everything else would be worth it including the custom spring pack in front.


http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/37105-95-2-Door-Tahoe-SAS-project?highlight=95+2+door+Tahoe+SAS

The semi float 14 bolt would be a great upgrade for what you want out of the truck, plus some piece of mind.

Not that I think you need to do a SAS but take a look at this kit from ORD.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/88-98SolidAxleConversion.htm

How long are you planning on keeping the truck? If you aren't anticipating driving it more than 50k miles or so, upgrading/ replacing the IFS junk makes sense. If you plan to keep it for years and many miles, save yourself some money and grief and sas it.
edit snip blah bla.

Here's a 95' with ORD SAS kit (52's front and rear) and an 8 lug semi floater rear/D60 front with 37's and ARB's rockin a 6.5L/4L80E.

It makes a helluva expedition rig....2 dr's nice for wheelin, 4 dr would be good for wide open spaces (alaska anyone?)

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/wahlstrom1/photo2.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/wahlstrom1/307138_10150808756970500_726345499_20692550_187604 6420_n.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/wahlstrom1/297078_10150808757335500_726345499_20692557_156759 7999_n.jpg

Hey... That truck looks familiar :D

Good looking truck. Build thread?

thanks guys, some really good advice all around.

I've been reading all over the web about tahoes swapping, but I've seen all-in costs from $12k - $20k

I ran through a basic checklist and it's hard for me to compute the costs getting that high...i'm a newb, so I must be missing something!!

Are the costs I'm seeing accurate, or are those unique? (sorry for such a general question)

I took my 98 Tahoe everywhere in baja, for days at a time. Stock suspension never had an issue. For an expedition truck, simple is better.

Build thread is on CK5: http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283855

I've got between 20 to 25k into my Tahoe, including the 1800 purchase price (practically stole it :D)

arent all the 1500hds 6 lug? they come with 9.5 rear, but is it the 9.25 front?

For what you want to do with your rig, keep it simple. Don't lift it, trim fenders to fit tires, 35's might be pushing it, just depends on your driving habits. Skid plates, sliders, and some body protection with nice bumpers and a winch. Rear selectable locker and bam! you have exactly what your wanting. Lifting an IFS with drop down brackets puts extreme amount of stress on the drive train and won't drive as well. Don't do it because it looks cool. I'm running 37's on a '79 bronco with no lift, just trimmed the fenders. All of this could be achieved for around $5 g's. Good luck. :)

Sierra - a few questions if you don't mind:

- which ARB bumper did you go with?
- total lift?
- are you rubbing anywhere when the suspension is compressed?
- why did you go forward with a dual transfer case?
- how do you like the BFG's offroad and onroad?
- is there a "preferred" Dana 60 I should look for?

Am i at a huge disadvantage if I dont put a locker in the rear?

If i stick with the IFS, here is what I'm thinking:

2" lift (no more cranked t-bars) - http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/skyjacker/skyjacker-chevy-gmc-11.htm

Upgraded CV's - https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=35&products_id=36

Upgrade Tie Rods - still searching, can't find for OBS Tahoe - any ideas?

Replacing pitman/idler arms prior to departure. Any company make good HD versions?

I like the idea of a 14bff with ARB lock in the rear. Without using cheap adapters, is there anyway to convert my 6lug IFS to 8lug?

If converting it is not possible, how strong is the 14b 6lug that came in a few Chev/GM's? (could it handle a locker)

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/chickenman402/1325719564.jpg

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/chickenman402/1325719420.jpg

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/chickenman402/IMG_1374.jpg

http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k633/chickenman402/IMG_1380.jpg

If i stick with the IFS, here is what I'm thinking:


Upgrade Tie Rods - still searching, can't find for OBS Tahoe - any ideas?

Replacing pitman/idler arms prior to departure. Any company make good HD versions?



Try Cognito or better yet Blitzkrieg. My friend had Blitz tierods on a 3/4 ton. Pure beef.

If i stick with the IFS, here is what I'm thinking:

2" lift (no more cranked t-bars) - http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/skyjacker/skyjacker-chevy-gmc-11.htm



Make sure they are forged. Cast aftermarket ones often fail when wheeled.

my truck, 1992 chevy 1500 305 tbi (gotta 350 going in this spring) axles high pinion dana 60. rear sterling 10.5 factory disk brakes i got both axles for 500 bucks at a junkyard. they are from an 03 ford super duty. off road direct solid axle swap kit. high steer knuckle from C.J. Weaver at weavers rodshop in Cali. (have to send core in) full swap with craigslist 35inch tires $2500 i did the whole swap for. I will put my truck up against any IFS double the strength plus i have 4wheel disk brakes.

As far as ride quality, i used 52inch LSprings and it is a nice ride. Ever ride in a super duty? Thats what it rides like.

Lifting an IFS with drop down brackets puts extreme amount of stress on the drive train and won't drive as well.


Hmm...so this would not be a good option? (skyjacker 2.5" lift)
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/skyjacker/skyjacker-chevy-gmc-11.htm

Any small suspension lifts that do not weaken the overall IFS? (I'd like to run flat tbars with no crank)

I hate to say this, but is my best option a simple 2.5 - 3" body lift and de-cranking tbars? I would REALLY like the added ground clearance, but overall I prefer a stronger suspension (minus SAS) to more clearance.

I see you are in New Jersey...well being as I live in Arizona I have no idea what kind of wheeling you do out east so I can't really say what you must have in a 4wd.
But based on my experience with the "overland" & "expedition" style travel it is all about the journey not the rig.

So my advice is the same as a few others...
First travel with your rig just the way it is...find out what is keeping you from going where you want to go? Mud, snow, fallen trees, rocks? This will tell you what you need to mod on your rig as far as tires/susp/recovery gear.

If I was going to buy anything I would buy a fridge & dual battery system. That will make a huge difference in your travel comfort.
Then I would pack up my camping gear and go on 2-3 day outings. See what else you need...better tent, awning, chairs.
Then I would go on 3-5 day trips (depending on vacation)...see what you need.

So much depends on where you are going, for how long, and if you are going solo vs with others.

More important than building is going...so go & post up some trip reports and let us know what you think you need.

Thanks 1 leg, great advice!

The tough part with this trip is that we're starting with a multi-month trip across the US, Canada and part of Alaska.

Once i finish the build, I'm going to test it locally for a few days...but unfortunately I'm trying to cover as much as I can before we live.

In addition to suspension...i have tons of work still to do!!

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n194/clemsonjeep1/100_6197.jpg

this was my old expedition rig. I sold it about a year ago to fund a KOH rig. I drove it hundreds of miles at a time and it rode great. If I was to do it again I would 4 link the front end with coilovers. It would be a lot more money, but worth it in the long run.
build thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=661346&highlight=livin+low

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n194/clemsonjeep1/100_6197.jpg

this was my old expedition rig. I sold it about a year ago to fund a KOH rig. I drove it hundreds of miles at a time and it rode great. If I was to do it again I would 4 link the front end with coilovers. It would be a lot more money, but worth it in the long run.
build thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=661346&highlight=livin+low

Justin, what do you think of the tire carrier?
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=1562&pictureid=11974
I also swapped out the Dana 70 for a Dana 60 with disc brakes.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=989322

Here's my build. I absolutely love this truck. It rides good with the SAS. You should do it ;)