twgshooter
11-15-2011, 12:33 PM
Ok, so after my six month obsession! I have finally gotten my Raider! It is a KreemPuff! Great story behind it. It is a 1988 Dodge Raider 2.6 Auto. Has 110,000 miles one owner.
The owner (Wisconsin Guy) had one new in 88" and after it started to act like a Raider he sold it. i.e. Salt/Rust fenders, doors, Head issues etc...
Fast forward 14yrs later "2002" same (Wisconsin guy), finds one in Texas that never left the showroom floor! Missing his youth or whatever! Flies down to Texas drives her back! First thing he does is completely rust proof everything internal and external. Ziebart, rhino coats everything he could. Drives it the first 40k and head starts to go. Gets new head from Clearwater, FL CCH. Replaces waterpump, and has head installed by dealer. Drives for another 50K until 2009 and it starts running rough, checks compression and sees that cyl 3 low. Parks it!
So, Enter me! 2 yrs later! I drive up to Wisconsin from Indy 9hrs. Fire it up running rough trailer it anyway $500 I bring it home.
Checked compression on Cyl-1= 170lbs, Cly-2=80lbs, Cyl-3=0-5lbs, cyl-4=150.
Ok, so I take off head and see intake valve -3 Burnt hole right on edge. Seat was Loosey Goosey! Took to shop for rebuild! Guy said E-Tab open. So it got above 250 Degrees!
Ok, so here is where the advice is needed! Obviously, this guy had overheated for this to happen!
I know controlling temperature is an issue on these Mitsubishi 2.6 G54B Engines is essential. Any tips you can give me to ensure this wont happen to me?
I have factory manuals. So I did read about the4 thermo switches, sensors,valves. Should i start with these. Obviously after I make sure Thermostat, radiator are good. The Emissions on these are so intense! I dont want to miss anything!
Help! ShOOter
The owner (Wisconsin Guy) had one new in 88" and after it started to act like a Raider he sold it. i.e. Salt/Rust fenders, doors, Head issues etc...
Fast forward 14yrs later "2002" same (Wisconsin guy), finds one in Texas that never left the showroom floor! Missing his youth or whatever! Flies down to Texas drives her back! First thing he does is completely rust proof everything internal and external. Ziebart, rhino coats everything he could. Drives it the first 40k and head starts to go. Gets new head from Clearwater, FL CCH. Replaces waterpump, and has head installed by dealer. Drives for another 50K until 2009 and it starts running rough, checks compression and sees that cyl 3 low. Parks it!
So, Enter me! 2 yrs later! I drive up to Wisconsin from Indy 9hrs. Fire it up running rough trailer it anyway $500 I bring it home.
Checked compression on Cyl-1= 170lbs, Cly-2=80lbs, Cyl-3=0-5lbs, cyl-4=150.
Ok, so I take off head and see intake valve -3 Burnt hole right on edge. Seat was Loosey Goosey! Took to shop for rebuild! Guy said E-Tab open. So it got above 250 Degrees!
Ok, so here is where the advice is needed! Obviously, this guy had overheated for this to happen!
I know controlling temperature is an issue on these Mitsubishi 2.6 G54B Engines is essential. Any tips you can give me to ensure this wont happen to me?
I have factory manuals. So I did read about the4 thermo switches, sensors,valves. Should i start with these. Obviously after I make sure Thermostat, radiator are good. The Emissions on these are so intense! I dont want to miss anything!
Help! ShOOter