What do you think is better or good.

1. Cut down a stock 150 or bronco tierod and draglink

2. drill knuckles out and and use rod ends and 1.25 sch.40 drag and tierod.

This is for a narrowed rc44, and will be street driven 80% of the time. This one will be the regular y-link in the stock location.

I have already done a custom steering setup on my bronco with rod ends and 1.25 sch.40. But it was crossover and highsteer.
This one turned out well.

I would run an inverted-T instead of an inverted-Y. Tap the knuckles for the rodends and make a crossover tierod (flip it over the knuckles), then link the draglink to the tierod via a set of tabs welded to the new tierod, essentially pinching the rodend on the draglink between the tabs on the tierod. This is what I'm planning to do with my junk if I can ever get started...

First read bill's page about steering.
http://www.rightcoastcrawler.com/billaVista/Steering/Steering_Index/SteeringIndex.htm

Then read my page on which axle to get.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

Only 1 thing, use real tie rod ends, and not heims. The're much safer on the hwy.

I would go with the cut and weld option. Hiems are fine for some things but not for an everyday street rig.

I initially was thinking of using tierod ends for sure for ease of mind since it'll be driven on the street.
For now I am going, cut and weld on either 150/ or fullsize bronco linkage.

Mr. N thanks to the tech link it's getting bookmaked next to billavista's. I all ready check his previously.
The axle I have is a 77-79 big bronco 44. It has already been cut down to 59".
I wasn't planning of going highsteer because for now it's cheaper and faster for me to get it done with a stock like setup.

This is the only thing left so I can get my heep out of the damn garage. It's been sitting there for at least 4 months. Then I can do the 9in. rear and finish the 4-link.:D, in my garage. :flipoff2:

Hey dean I remember you were selling a bunch of 44 parts
got any steering linkages lying around?

Originally posted by dgcooper
Only 1 thing, use real tie rod ends, and not heims. The're much safer on the hwy.

Care to elaborate on this? I see nothing wrong with heims, other then the aren't greasable and the bushing can wear out. Saftey? As long as you are running washers over the body of the heims, I think it's just as safe as TREs. I don't see the drawback, but I am always open to other viewpoints.

SeanP

Originally posted by bent70
Mr. N thanks to the tech link it's getting bookmaked next to billavista's. I all ready check his previously.
The axle I have is a 77-79 big bronco 44. It has already been cut down to 59".
I wasn't planning of going highsteer because for now it's cheaper and faster for me to get it done with a stock like setup.

Thanks for the nice words, and your welcome. Glad it might help.
Good luck

Originally posted by SeanP


Care to elaborate on this? I see nothing wrong with heims, other then the aren't greasable and the bushing can wear out. Saftey? As long as you are running washers over the body of the heims, I think it's just as safe as TREs. I don't see the drawback, but I am always open to other viewpoints.

SeanP

Heims (Spherical Rod Ends, or SRE's) are not only not greasable, but I've also found that they also have a shorter service life. It's also been my experience that once they start to go, their failure is quicker and sometimes more dramatic. Also, Tie rod ends have a more captive end - I've seen some pretty SORRY Tie rod ends that didn't fail...

Also, they're best in a double-shear application, and most people single shear their steering (even with washers, yes).

Tie rod ends (TRE's) use a taper bolt that is much less prone to egging out the holes like a SRE. Another thing is that the hole for SRE's has to be pretty precise, wheras the taper for the TRE's can be a little off, as long as it's the same pitch...

Oh yeah, Hysteer is a pretty big challenge. If you can beef up your tierod and run it stock, you're doing pretty well. :)

Cheers
Bob (running a full width 79 RC 1/2ton 44 with highsteer, TRE's on the steering and 7/8" SRE's on the trackbar)

I would second what he said. I have found that hiems work fine on the draglink because they only have to deal with the force exerted by the steering box where the tierod has many other forces to deal with.

Originally posted by Trango


Heims (Spherical Rod Ends, or SRE's) are not only not greasable, but I've also found that they also have a shorter service life. It's also been my experience that once they start to go, their failure is quicker and sometimes more dramatic. Also, Tie rod ends have a more captive end - I've seen some pretty SORRY Tie rod ends that didn't fail...

Also, they're best in a double-shear application, and most people single shear their steering (even with washers, yes).

Tie rod ends (TRE's) use a taper bolt that is much less prone to egging out the holes like a SRE. Another thing is that the hole for SRE's has to be pretty precise, wheras the taper for the TRE's can be a little off, as long as it's the same pitch...

Oh yeah, Hysteer is a pretty big challenge. If you can beef up your tierod and run it stock, you're doing pretty well. :)

Cheers
Bob (running a full width 79 RC 1/2ton 44 with highsteer, TRE's on the steering and 7/8" SRE's on the trackbar)

There are Greasable Spherical bearings, and if you need longer bearing life, its a bearing so you just need a larger size... The Spherical bearings snould be mounted double-shear.

The exactness of the mounting hole was a good point thought...

The greasable ones are even weaker though.