Anyone ever used pvc as a onboard air tank> I am thinking about using some 3" PVC with caps on the end and drill and tap it for the fittings I need. It is 320 PSI stuff. I will glue the caps on the ends. Anyone tried it?:(

Hey I've thought about the same thing, small light, mount wherever, Why wouldnt it work? they rate the stuff for high pressure... the glue must hold right? the fittings are my question.. you'd need three, and input, an output... a drain..( optional...depending on your beliefs..)
how could a guy make sure one didnt come flying out of the thing at a million miles an hour..? i thouht about a large washer and a coupling inside the are all in pipie thread....
come on lets think this thru......
thanks
sean

Welll they us pvc to run air lines in shops so it should work. I dont know about going over 110psi though. I was thinking the same thing though as you guys,.

I seem to recal as soon as you put fittings on PVC that the psi rating goes down quite a bit.
PVC will shatter if it ruptures...maybe try abs.

http://www.monarchplastic.com/QualityControl/qualitycontrol.htm
http://tomacorp.com/ballistics/ABSvsPVC.html
http://www.cheresources.com/plpipezz.shtml
http://www.ppfahome.org/pdf/absguide.pdf



MJ

Ok,
I';m an electrician, we work with the sched. 80 stuff, up to 5 inch.
Im running a ac unit on my chevy...( it'll pump air...;) )
I have air lines, and connections, I'd like a tank.
I'd mount it under the hood, or beside the tcase..
the sbc takes alot of room in the engine compartment...
a guy could run a pressure regulator, and blow off any excess pressure, but would he need to? how much pressure can a ac pump build anyhow?
and how much pressure would be too much?
spud guns are cool, I just dont like to be around them when they go off.... the shit (pvc) explodes when it fails underpressure. :eek:
any thoughts?
thanks
sean

I have 2 PVC air tanks under my pickup. I used 4" Sch40 PVC pipe and fittings, even a 22.5* elbow to match my frame right where I wanted to mount the tanks. I drilled and tapped for 1/4" brass fittings at the thick spots where the fittings and pipe overlapped.

Important Lessons Learned: allow a minimum of 24 hours for the PVC cement to set up firm before attempting to glue on the final cap, drill one hole for a brass fitting at the other end
I couldn't overcome internal pressure long enough to keep the last cap on my first tank. A relief hole on the other end in the spot where I wanted to put a drain cock fixed that.

I pressured my first tank to 120 psi after about 12 hours of glue drying. The last glued joint slowly pushed out, but not all the way off. I guess it expanded to a point where the pressure was reduced and it could hold. I now regularly pump up to 120 psi with no problems.

Here's a picture (http://community.webshots.com/photo/31559591/31560116cEzLTHSPew)

Thanks Slinky I think I will give it a shot,but I might use ABS only to be alittle save incase of bursting. Its only going to be full of air when I need it other wise it will be nonpressurized.:p

Why? I found my tank at harbor freight for less than 10 bucks.

good for you,but thats not what I am looking for.....

There was a magazine that did that years ago don't remember which it was.Some of the wood working sites I was on didn't recomend it because of the shattering when it did go. Like was said before tanks are cheap and safer.

Originally posted by gna
good for you,but thats not what I am looking for.....

Why risk hurting you or your family because a steel tank might cost a few $ more

Originally posted by 4x4extreme


Why risk hurting you or your family because a steel tank might cost a few $ more Well said

Originally posted by 4x4extreme


Why risk hurting you or your family because a steel tank might cost a few $ more



I'm with ya on this safety above and beyond saving a couple bucks:)

check into the air tanks from big rigs small relatively light and the
thing are already plumbed just change fittings accordingly and there ya go

It wasn't a money issue... I just was trying to save weight and space. Thanks for you help>>>>>>>>>>

"I just was trying to save weight and space. Thanks for you help"

When the tank shatters and explodes you will have more space and less weight. And probably need new shorts. This is not the place to save a little weight.

Originally posted by gna
It wasn't a money issue... I just was trying to save weight and space. Thanks for you help>>>>>>>>>>

Honestly, how much does a cheap metal air-tank from Walmart weigh? Not a lot. It's probably not much smaller (if any) than your PVC tank... especially if sized like the one shown above.

The hell with plastic I just bought a metal tank. See ya

PVC + cold temps = fragmentation grenade

cm "or one dead dumbass" k

Originally posted by gna
The hell with plastic I just bought a metal tank. See ya

Bahahahaaa!
Pushover!!!

MJ:flipoff2:

If you are wanting to save weight what about using the bumpers or roll cage. Something that is already on the Jeep that isn't plastic.

alright, hey every guy has to try to save some green.....
i wont jeprodize my family, but those damn detroit lockers are expensive......... i had to try didnt i?????

I am thinking about converting to propane how about a PVC propane tank :confused: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by scouter77
I am thinking about converting to propane how about a PVC propane tank

That should work just fine. One thing though, be sure and get plenty of video footage of the conversion in action.
:cool:

I disagree with the pvc idea but if ya have to what about wrapping the crap out of it with duct tape to cut down on the shrapnel if and when it does explode.

arndog

Originally posted by arndog
I disagree with the pvc idea but if ya have to what about wrapping the crap out of it with duct tape to cut down on the shrapnel if and when it does explode.

arndog

That is what I do when I build air powered tator cannons
Because It is only a matter of time before the pvc blows

Originally posted by GPERX4
There was a magazine that did that years ago don't remember which it was.Some of the wood working sites I was on didn't recomend it because of the shattering when it did go. Like was said before tanks are cheap and safer.
Bought tanks don't fit anywhere/everywhere. I have about 5 gallons of compressed storage on my truck tucked under the body, against the frame, and pretty much out of harm's way. I can completely air to street pressure a totally flat 35" tire with one charge of my system.

How did you attach the tanks to your frame?

The nice thing about PVC is you can fill all those spaces underneath where a metal tank won't fit... especially if you have a link suspension. I've got some sched 80 6" pipe that measures about 1/4" wall thickness, with cap or joint thats 1/2". Should be plenty thick enough for a 1/4" NPT. Wrap it with duct tape for protection and it should support 100psi without much problem. I've seen people run them before, never heard of them exploding. Put a 100 psi popoff to make sure they don't get overfilled and fill up all those nooks and crannys an air tank won't fit.

It's plenty strong, but PVC needs to be supported properly, and like cmk said, the cold can make it a bit brittle.

Originally posted by krankitup
How did you attach the tanks to your frame? No detailed pics of this, so I'll try to explain as best I can.

Take a **-inch diameter coupling (whatever pipe dia you're using) and it's your start point for making a solid mount. I used a table saw to cut it into 4 quarter-round pieces, then cut these in half long-ways to give me eight quarter-rounds. These will match the OD of your pipe. I think there's a lip in the middle of a coupling that has to trimmed flush. Then I got the largest hose clamps I could find at Home Depot (can't remember if I had to link two together). I used panhead machine screws so I could counter sink them into the coupling quarters, mounted the quarters to the frame, slipping the hose clamps behind the quarters. Two of these mounts per tank on each side of my truck. The countersunk screws made sure the tank fit tight into the bracket and no hole-wearing by a screw head into the tube.

Did this make any sense at all? Was that a thousand words? :D

Sounds easy enough. I'll have to give that a shot when I get a compressor. Does it have to be PVC or can it be SCH40 ABS?

Originally posted by krankitup
Sounds easy enough. I'll have to give that a shot when I get a compressor. Does it have to be PVC or can it be SCH40 ABS? Dunno. I went with PVC cuz I'm familiar with it. If ABS has a higher pressure rating for a given size, it would probably be better. Unless it costs a lot more (I know how it is with us cheap bastages :D ).

If you are going to try the PVC tank use schedule 80 C-PVC that's a higher quality Plastic pipe that is designed to handle a greater range of temperature. It's more chemical resistant and it also holds up to UV better. UV exposure is the biggest killer to any kind of PVC, that's what makes it brittle and causes it to shatter. So after you build your tank buy a special UV resistant coating and give it a healthy coat.
Also scedule 80 is some thick ass shit and with a good quality primer and glue it should hold up just fine. As long as the glue has the proper alloted time to cure. And like previously posted it's good to a fairly high pressure rating ( 300 psi + or - ).

I know this because I work with the stuff in pressurized chemical injection systems up to 150 psi.

So after you've spent all that money and time to build a decent tank you'll wish you bought a cheap metal tank for ten or fifteen bucks.

Go to a wrecking yard for trucks, they've got all kinds of little hotdog shaped tanks for air brake systems, from size big to very little. I got one for my rig for $5 bucks, it's about a three gallon tank and about 5 inches in diameter . Fits perfect inside the frame rail.

BTW, no offense intended but those scedule 40 PVC air tanks up under those rocker panels are the stupidest thing I've ever seen :eek: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by scouter77
I am thinking about converting to propane how about a PVC propane tank :confused: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


Make sure you wrap it with a shit pile of duct tape. Good to go.
:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Reddog
BTW, no offense intended but those scedule 40 PVC air tanks up under those rocker panels are the stupidest thing I've ever seen :eek: :rolleyes: How so? If you mean cuz they'll get hit, I'll have to crush my frame first or find that lucky rock. If they do blow, the lowest part of the tube is higher than the rocker, so all schrapnel will blow down or bounce off the body and go down to the ground. I didn't have a body cavity large enough for a decent sized tank. I didn't want it/them in the bed to get busted the first time a 2x4 slammed against it. Tucked way up under the body like that, UV is pretty much a non-issue.

Help me out here. Which part of the tanks underneath is stupid? Had I found a skinny enough steel tank, that's where it was going.

Well I guess it all a matter of opinion and what type of wheelin you do.

The type of wheeling I do that pvc would be blown apart after the first mile of trail.

I've had body mounts on my rig in that same area, between the rocker panels and the frame rails. They've all been torn off at one time or another and since been modified. In fact I don't even have any rocker panels anymore :eek: A sawzall took them off a long time ago.

I appologize if I offended you, I just kind of assume this forum is for extreme four wheel drive and I think it's a dumb idea to use shedule 40 in the first place and it's even more dumber to put a plastic air tank in that spot unless you do all your wheeling on speed bumps in shopping mall parking lots.

This isn't even my preferred forum, I was just Cruising thru looking to find some parts. So don't worry I'll go back to where I came from and leave you guys alone.

take it easy Reddog nobody said anything even close to :flipoff2: to you I think your reading into those post alittle to much..... :crybaby2:

Originally posted by Reddog
Well I guess it all a matter of opinion and what type of wheelin you do.

The type of wheeling I do that pvc would be blown apart after the first mile of trail.

I've had body mounts on my rig in that same area, between the rocker panels and the frame rails. They've all been torn off at one time or another and since been modified. In fact I don't even have any rocker panels anymore :eek: A sawzall took them off a long time ago.

I appologize if I offended you, I just kind of assume this forum is for extreme four wheel drive and I think it's a dumb idea to use shedule 40 in the first place and it's even more dumber to put a plastic air tank in that spot unless you do all your wheeling on speed bumps in shopping mall parking lots.

This isn't even my preferred forum, I was just Cruising thru looking to find some parts. So don't worry I'll go back to where I came from and leave you guys alone.


I just kind of assume this forum is for extreme four wheel drive


Exactly!!!!

Only an engineer would want a plastic tank. It is not a good plan for anyone who actually USES their trail rig for the trail!!!

Ok, so you want a lighter tank? Buy an Aluminum one. In the meantime, go wheelin and see where the best place to mount a tank would be. Wanna clue? It's that magic spot without dents!



:flipoff2: Fawkin Newb

When it comes to safety don't skimp! Even if it is mounted under your rig...don't you ever crawl under your rig or has anyone else?You never know when it will blow...just that it will in time and I would hate for anyone to be near it. IMO there are better and safer items to use as a tank...they have all been mentioned here. They are small, light weight, and cheap.

Only an engineer would want a plastic tank. It is not a good plan for anyone who actually USES their trail rig for the trail!!! :flipoff2: Fawkin Newb Who said I had the PVC on a trail rig? 99 Ram 1500 is my TOW RIG. I use OBA to air up at the END of the trail before I flat tow my Zuk home (trailer soon I hope). :flipoff2: Fawkin Newb

Originally posted by Tuffjarhed


<snip>
Only an engineer would want a plastic tank.
<snip>


Real engineers would know better. Only an idiot would use an unprotected PVC tank.

Compressed air contains a huge amount of stored energy. Any external incidental damage to the pipe, a nip or an unusual pressure surge in the system can greatly compromise the integrity of PVC pipe. PVC pipe also can be damaged by oil and other contaminants contained in the air supply. Subsequently, failure of the pipe can result in an explosion with fragments of shattered pipe flying in all directions.

There are some pipes approved for compressed air, but they will be labeled as such. Generally the only time you should use PVC for compressed air/gas is when it is buried or encased in something shatterproof.

here's some info I found, as it states, it is the mode of failure (shrapnel) that is the cause for concern:
http://www.tssa.org/boilers/advisories/sb00_8.pdf

Hey... I think 2" sch 80 PVC would be lighter for my roll bar protection...and I wouldn't need one of those expensive benders because I could heat bend the radius portions.......I could save major bucks there.....
Hmmm I wonder if abs would be better though??....:flipoff2:

I could maybe even use it as my air tank!!!

Originally posted by BossBuilt
Hey... I think 2" sch 80 PVC would be lighter for my roll bar protection...and I wouldn't need one of those expensive benders because I could heat bend the radius portions.......I could save major bucks there.....
Hmmm I wonder if abs would be better though??....:flipoff2:

I could maybe even use it as my air tank!!! Okay, we have definitely crossed over into the world of ridiculous.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Steve N



Make sure you wrap it with a shit pile of duct tape. Good to go.
:flipoff2:


OOPS I forgot the brackets ;) Anyways YEA and a garden hose for the fuel line too (right next to the cats)! I was joking.

At work we had a surge tank for a multi-stage air drilling operation made from 200 PSI PVC. After a month of operation, the end cap decided to let go. :eek: It sounded louder than a 12ga shotgun going off. It shreaded a sweat shirt that was hanging nearby, and sent shards of PVC over 100ft. Luckily no one was near it or in the path of the shraptnel. It would have killed or seriously injured someone if they were. Looking for cheap, find some 4" sch 80 PIPE and some weld caps.

Originally posted by Tuffjarhed
Only an engineer would want a plastic tank. It is not a good plan for anyone who actually USES their trail rig for the trail!!!


Hey Topper, care to rephrase that? ... present company considered. ;)

cm "nevermind them Indiana folk" k :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Slinky
Okay, we have definitely crossed over into the world of ridiculous.:flipoff2:
Crossed nothing>>>> I'm always in the "other world"....that's where the best trails are...:D

what in the fawk plastic air tanks??????????????
duct tape to hold in the shards???????????
seriosly you guys are fawkin kiddin right??? maybe a wee too much egg nog???
stop and think about it yeah you might not ever crush it with a rock but what about one get shot up from your tires.


anyways yall just lett me know when n where you wheel so i can avoid.


oh and you the driver might be protected but what about spotters, bystanders,etc,etc.



plastic is :rainbow: :rainbow: :rainbow:

Originally posted by Slinky
I have 2 PVC air tanks under my pickup. I used 4" Sch40 PVC pipe and fittings, even a 22.5* elbow to match my frame right where I wanted to mount the tanks. I drilled and tapped for 1/4" brass fittings at the thick spots where the fittings and pipe overlapped.

Important Lessons Learned: allow a minimum of 24 hours for the PVC cement to set up firm before attempting to glue on the final cap, drill one hole for a brass fitting at the other end
I couldn't overcome internal pressure long enough to keep the last cap on my first tank. A relief hole on the other end in the spot where I wanted to put a drain cock fixed that.

I pressured my first tank to 120 psi after about 12 hours of glue drying. The last glued joint slowly pushed out, but not all the way off. I guess it expanded to a point where the pressure was reduced and it could hold. I now regularly pump up to 120 psi with no problems.

Here's a picture (http://community.webshots.com/photo/31559591/31560116cEzLTHSPew)

Also given that the bursting pressure of a 4" Sch 10 A53 A,ERW is approx 550 psi, and it weighs about 5#/ft vs. Sch 40 PVC at 2.030 #/ft and it will not be affected by heat like PVC will, why would you even consider it? PVC is derated starting at 80 Degree f, with it being derated to 50% at 100 F and a max temp of 140. So your 4" sch 40 pvc which starts out at 220 psi would be good for 110 psi at 100 f, and 48 psi at 140 f. Lets not forget about the explosive power of compressed air, as your 5 gallons of air, if the tank(s) went at once with 120 psi in them would have enough explosive force to blow off body parts never mind the shrapnel.