OK, I'm getting back in to welding, and I've been laying some beads with a little craftsman 90a 110v MIG welder, and this is going OK, but I'm having trouble seeing where I'm going. I'll lay down a halfway decent bead, pop the helmet up and by the end of the weld, it's a 1/4" away from the seam I was trying to weld. When I'm welding, I can see the puddle and arc just fine, but I keep loosing track of the seam I should be following. This is especially true when welding fishmouths on tubing.

I'm using a #9 shade with the gold coating (supposed to reflect light back on the work), but I still get to where I can't see the seam I'm welding. When I get done, I feel like I'm really straining my eyes, kinda like reading a book in the dark.

Do you think a #9 shade is too light? I was thinking maybe it was letting in too much light and making my pupils dilate too much, but I'm not sure. Is there anything out there that works well for marking lines to follow? Any ideas/tips/tricks to seeing in the dark? I've already upped the carrot intake.

Thanks!

What process are you using? I normally use a 10 for mig/stick, but thats where Im comfortable.

Originally posted by erich_in_AZ


I was thinking maybe it was letting in too much light and making my pupils dilate too much,
Thanks!

The pupils of our eyes dilate and grow larger when its dark and you have contracted pupils when it's too bright. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Old Scout


The pupils of our eyes dilate and grow larger when its dark and you have contracted pupils when it's too bright. :flipoff2:

Good point! I think my pupils might be contracting if the shade is too light.

:D

I'm welding with .030 wire and gas.

Originally posted by mike
What process are you using? I normally use a 10 for mig/stick, but thats where Im comfortable.

I agree I use a 10 too and I love it...I have tried 11 and 9, but the 10, I feel, works best...oh and I dont have any reflective coloring on mine...jsut a regular old lense...if your eyes are being strained then I would say your lense is too light...try a 10 and see if it helps...

#9 is too light for arc welding.

A GOOGLE SEARCH (http://www.google.com) turned up this page

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/elcosh/docs/d0100/d000018/d000018.html

I use a #10 and it works for me. Have you tried "pushing" instead of "pulling" the weld? It makes it a lot easier to see since your hand isn't covering the area yet to be welded:)

Originally posted by reddwarf
#9 is too light for arc welding.

A GOOGLE SEARCH (http://www.google.com) turned up this page

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/elcosh/docs/d0100/d000018/d000018.html

He's using a reflective lens, so according to that page it's ok ;) I just find it too light to see a lot of detail

Originally posted by reddwarf
#9 is too light for arc welding.

A GOOGLE SEARCH (http://www.google.com) turned up this page

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/elcosh/docs/d0100/d000018/d000018.html

They recommend using a #11 for plasma cutting...have you ever tried using any welding hood for plasma...it doesnt work:D I use a 3 or 4 for plasma and it works great...but that is good info for a general reference

Originally posted by reddwarf
#9 is too light for arc welding.

A GOOGLE SEARCH (http://www.google.com) turned up this page

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/elcosh/docs/d0100/d000018/d000018.html


Looks like they are calling for a #10 or #11, but they add this:


*Numbers are for standard filter lens. If reflective lens is used, it's OK to use one number lower: So, for shielded metal arc welding indoors, you can use reflective lens 10.

so I might be a shade too light. I think I'll pick up a #10 reflective and see if it helps. I was also thinking of aiming a pretty bright halogen work light at it, and seeing if that would help visibility outside of the arc.

Thanks for the link.

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
I use a #10 and it works for me. Have you tried "pushing" instead of "pulling" the weld? It makes it a lot easier to see since your hand isn't covering the area yet to be welded:)

I can't seem to 'push' a weld worth a damn. I end up with a horrible case of booger welds fi I don't drag it. With some more practice, hopefully I can cure that.

Originally posted by erich_in_AZ


I was also thinking of aiming a pretty bright halogen work light at it, and seeing if that would help visibility outside of the arc.

Thanks for the link.

I know that when welding outside and the sun is shinning on your work it makes it TONS easier to see so this might be a good idea if you are still having a hard time with a #10

Actually, what you should be watching is the puddle, not the arc.

Weld shorter beads, stop, and take a look until you get back into the swing of things. Eventually, you get a sense for where you're going.

Also, I have an auto-darkening lens. I don't know if that would help your specific problem, but it sure makes starting the arc a helluva lot easier

Originally posted by reddwarf

Also, I have an auto-darkening lens. I don't know if that would help your specific problem, but it sure makes starting the arc a helluva lot easier

To me it depends on what you learned on...I learned to flip my hood so to try and use an auto darkening hood makes it awkward for me...

Well, I learned real quick that regular lens is a PITA so that's why I got the auto dark :D

I use a #10 lense for just about everyting and the only time I have a hard time seeing what I'm doing is when the lenses get dirty. It is surprising how little dirt it takes to ruin your view of the puddle. So try cleaning your lenses and put in new clear ones if they are even slightly discolored.

I had the same problem at work and it was remedied by what you said earlier by aiming a light at your work space. Try it, you have nothing to lose. By the way all it takes for me is a $5 clamp on 35 watt light from Home Depot if you dont wanna use a 500 watt halogen.

I'll second what florida 4x4 said. Just clean your lenses, not just the filter but the clear lens outside and inside your hood. Makes it much easier to see. You may also try holding your hand down a bit at more of a angle so your not blocking your own view. Not pushing the weld but just a bit lower.:)

Originally posted by florida4x4
I use a #10 lense for just about everyting and the only time I have a hard time seeing what I'm doing is when the lenses get dirty. It is surprising how little dirt it takes to ruin your view of the puddle. So try cleaning your lenses and put in new clear ones if they are even slightly discolored.

EXACTLY!
you can rub it clean and it seems to be better but its not.
You can REALLY see the difference when you replace your cover plate.

I betcha thats your problem

For mig I use a 9 lense. For stick a 10 or 11. In one of my helmets I have a 10 and when I use the mig it really sucks. Very hard to see similar to what you are describing. You welder isnt putting out alot so I would say you have two options. Go with a number 8 sheild or do what was posted above and use a light to shine on the work piece.

I keep a little flourescent drop light handy for lighting places where it is hard to see... That said; MIG with a #10 shade auto hood never is too hard to see even when working at night under the rig. I only use the light when I need to have absolute control over the puddle/direction and mainly just as a starting aid - not overly helpful while the arc is struck (helps some but not a ton)

I have tired those gold plated filters and they trip me out since the colors are way different - I don't dislike them, just something else to get used to... :rolleyes:

Matt

You welder isnt putting out alot

I would have thought that the rating of the machine has nothing to do with how bright the arc is. It's not like a 230 MIG is going to be brighter than a 90. It's the proces, no?

Just don;t want people reading this thinking it's ok to drop a shade because of a smaller machine (assuming I'm correct?)

I had a hard time going from flux core with a view to mig. I still drag most of the time and watch the puddle from behind. If you stare at the arc you won't be able to see much else going on. I use an auto darkening helmet fixed at #9 I believe. It can be really bright when welding at high amperages and I slip in and extra filter.

As for lights, don't bother with incandesants unless you have a glass sheild for it or use toughskin bulbs. As soon as a blob of splatter lands on them it puts a hole in em. I use a a floresent drop light after buying about 40 bulbs for the trouble lamp.
Ken

Originally posted by Scoutaholic
You may also try holding your hand down a bit at more of a angle so your not blocking your own view. Not pushing the weld but just a bit lower.:)

I agree.
Yeah, depending on the rod, some don't do well if you push.
Just a word to the wise, be carefull if you clean the reflective lense itself. Some tend to scratch easily, rendering them junk.
Periodically inspect it for scratches as well, they can cause distortion or even cause burns to your face or eyes.
I use a #10 myself.
And BillaVista is correct.

Originally posted by BillaVista


I would have thought that the rating of the machine has nothing to do with how bright the arc is. It's not like a 230 MIG is going to be brighter than a 90. It's the proces, no?

Just don;t want people reading this thinking it's ok to drop a shade because of a smaller machine (assuming I'm correct?)

I agree 100% with Bill...he is already saying his eyes feel strained after he welds and you tell hime to drop to a #8???:confused: he needs to cure the problem of his eyes being strained first or he will end up damaging his eyes in the long run...I still say go to a #10 and then shine a light on your work...:D

Originally posted by wild1
You welder isnt putting out alot so I would say you have two options. Go with a number 8 sheild or do what was posted above and use a light to shine on the work piece.

I stopped at the local welding shop on the way home, and they guy said just about what you are saying. He suggested dropping to the #8 (reflective) and said that the little welder (the 90 amp craftsman/century unit) I'm using doesn't make very strong arc, so it's pretty common to have trouble like this. I'll probably fire it up tomorrow night and see how it works with an 8. I'm looking at getting a hobart 175 but it depends on how xmas pans out.

Thanks for the input everyone. I'll let you know how the #8 works out.

Originally posted by Supergper


I agree 100% with Bill...he is already saying his eyes feel strained after he welds and you tell hime to drop to a #8???:confused: he needs to cure the problem of his eyes being strained first or he will end up damaging his eyes in the long run...I still say go to a #10 and then shine a light on your work...:D

I honestly think the eye strain is from trying to so hard to look where I'm at. I've zapped myself before (When I was younger and stick welding) and it doesn't feel like that. It feels more like trying to read in low light. I'm a little uneasy about dropping to #8 even if it's reflective, but I'll try a short pass or 2 and see how it feels. If I feel uncomfortable at all, I'll step it up. I also picked up a #10 non-reflective I might try out.

Erich, maybe try a +1 diopter

Originally posted by BillaVista


I would have thought that the rating of the machine has nothing to do with how bright the arc is. It's not like a 230 MIG is going to be brighter than a 90. It's the proces, no?

Just don;t want people reading this thinking it's ok to drop a shade because of a smaller machine (assuming I'm correct?)


The process as well as the amperage and size of electrode being used are going to have an effect on the intensity of the arc. Try it at home – run a pass with a 3/32” 7018 @ 70A then run a pass with ¼” 7018 @ 240A and see which is brighter.

One of the first things I learned when I started my apprenticeship: “Weld for a few minutes, lift the hood and blink your eyes, if you see light spots go a shade darker, if you see dark spots go a shade lighter” If you cannot see anything you flashed yourself and you need to go get some Pontocain drops and some :beer: how are your eyes Erich? Maybe time for a cheater lens?

Originally posted by erich_in_AZ
a little craftsman 90a 110v MIG welder

:D *Rule of thumb* if it glues metal yet plugs into a normal wall socket you don't need a welding helmet to operate it! :D

I used a #10 forever w/ my weldpak 100. hell torch glasses would have saved my eyes enough :D you can probably get a much lighter lens or weat 2 pairs of sun glasses and be cool :D

Originally posted by Sillyneck
*Rule of thumb* if it glues metal yet plugs into a normal wall socket you don't need a welding helmet to operate it! :DHey Lance, is there a way to add Silly to my ignore list, but only when the word "safety" is in the title? :flipoff2:

OK, I tried the #8 shield. I wasn't very happy seeing a white spot when I was done. :eek: So, I put I put the #9 back in and tried a few things. I tilted the gun down a little and pulled the gun away from the puddle a little more. I also increased the diameter of the puddle a bit more. This REALLY helped me see better, and helped the quality of the welds.

Thanks for all of the help.

:bounce: :bounce2:

Do like I do, wear some shades. You should always wear glasses while welding anyways, but try throwing some shaded safety glasses on, or even just some sunglasses. If your lense shade is too light then you'll find it easier to weld this way. That's what I do all summer long too is weld with sunglasses. Come night time I wear amber glasses, which seem to increase the intensity of the light.

Like the other guy said, try a cheater. They work great if you get used to one, but the first time I used one it was like welding with a hangover.

Originally posted by erich_in_AZ
OK, I tried the #8 shield. I wasn't very happy seeing a white spot when I was done. :eek:


Told ya :flipoff2:

Originally posted by reddwarf


Told ya :flipoff2:

exactly:flipoff2: like I said before, if your eyes are sore after welding with a #9 then why in the hell would you go lighter???:confused::D:D:D

I use a #10 shade with my arc welder.. but i also have 2 stand up hallogen lights thati shine down on my ghetto welding table. When working under the car or what ever, i have my portable hallogen light. THey make my life soo much easier.

BTW, as a side note.. remember that stacking lenses, or wearing sunglasses does not help shade your eyes.. putting a #4 and #8 filter in your hood still shades to a #8... just noting that.

Garrett

Originally posted by Hick
BTW, as a side note.. remember that stacking lenses, or wearing sunglasses does not help shade your eyes.. putting a #4 and #8 filter in your hood still shades to a #8... just noting that.

Garrett

Have you ever tried welding with 2 lenses? Or using sunglasses with a #10 on a sunny day? It will compound the light filtering, resulting in a darker shade.

you think it affects you like that.. but it doesent compound.. weld all day with 2 #5 lenses stacked up.. heck, that multiplys it.. so that will be a #25 shade!!

Garrett

Try a green #10. Those gold ones tend to scratch more than other colors. If the lens is scratched it lets in brighter light at the scratch causing your eyes to contract more......making it hard to see details. :)

I weld for a living and use the gold lens and I know that when going to a gold lens you should always +1 shade

You should not use them after the smallest scratch is put on them

I think you need to practice more and find a good position to where you can see well

Are you keeping your head back to far ?

I don't think anyone has yet mentioned this, but in the past I have had problems with light from behind me reflecting into my helmet and making it hard to see well. I ended up riveting some fireproof cloth to the top of my helmet and down a little ways, and letting it drape over my head and down to my neck. At first I caught a lot of shit about it from guys at work, but now there are a few other guys doing it.

I have to agree with Hick. Lens is a filter

Take for a simple example a blue filter. That only lets blue light through. If you put another blue filter behind it, what happens?