I've done some searching and have read several articles about this swap. I am planning to put an ODBI 4.0L HO from a wrangler in my 1982 fullsize wagoneer that currently has a 258.

I've determined I need a speed sensor from a 91/92 dodge so I don't get ripped by Hesco.

Fuel pump.. Someone posted that a 1989 Ford F-150 w/ 302 fuel pump would work since it is external and easy to hook up to an existing gas tank. I looked it up on partsamerica and the notes are "Externally Mounted; Vehicle Has 2 Pumps; 1 InTank & 1 External". Why the hell would it have 2 pumps, and can anyone confirm that this one will work? Is there a set fuel pressure needed for the engine that I can use to order a fuel pump from Summit Racing?

Computer.. The computer I'm getting is for a manual transmission. I'm going to use an automatic. Is there any big difference between the two computers?

CPS. Is it possible to fab up something similar to Hesco's harmonic balencer CPS kit without paying out the :flipoff2: for their junk? Is it just drilling some holes on the balencer and then fabbing a bracket to point the CPS at it?

SEARCH!!!!!!

search my name and CPS

Fuel pump..
Use an in-tank or near tank low pressure pump to draw fuel from the tank and another high pressure (around 42-43 PSI) pump to provide the correct spec.

Computer..
The auto's computer compensates for idleing in gear.
You might have trouble there ...

CPS...
You'd need to be one hell of a machinist ...:flipoff2:
Why don't you use an OEM 1991+ bellhousing, flexplate and pickup sensor?

Jaffer, you're saying I definately need 2 pumps? Still looking for more options.. thanks for the feedback.

Originally posted by mellocj
Jaffer, you're saying I definately need 2 pumps? Still looking for more options.. thanks for the feedback.

No, but if you mount a high pressure pump outside the tank, it doesn't hurt to have a low pressure pump closer to the tank to draw the fuel, even if it's just a little Carter rotary...

When I was in the middle of my 4.0 swap into my CJ7 I got the most usefull info from a group on yahoo. Search their groups by entering "strokers" in the search. This will be the last place that you will need to look for anything involved in swapping a 4.0 into another vehicle or stroking a 4.0. Hope this helps.

That is the exact pump ('89 5.0 f-150) that I have been using for going on 3 years. I do not have an internal tank pump. I was not even aware that there was one. It has worked perfectly, without fail. I also used the filter for the same.

Also, $79.00 at Autozone with a lifetime warranty.:D

Originally posted by mellocj


CPS. Is it possible to fab up something similar to Hesco's harmonic balencer CPS kit without paying out the :flipoff2: for their junk? Is it just drilling some holes on the balencer and then fabbing a bracket to point the CPS at it? [/B]

I have read that Novak will machine your bellhousing for something like $50. Then you can use the factory CPS.

this thread has the smackings of a newbie clusterfuck:flipoff2:

CPS:
1) go to jeepconnection.com. buy the mopar MPI kit's sensor bracket for the damper. $50
2) call anywhere and order the Hesco Damper, take it to a machinist or any fool with a drill press and copy the holes on the damper $50. send the Hesco damper back
3) use a CPS from an automatic tranny

Originally posted by Sundowner
this thread has the smackings of a newbie clusterfuck:flipoff2:


I resent that smart ass :barf: remark,Sundowner.
Guys like dorfs and I have been generously helping newbies like you with their 4.0L engine and head swaps for quite a few years now, first on Parts Mike, the ORC BBS (try some seaches there if you really want a bunch of 4.0L tech :flipoff2:) and now this Pirate site.
And all you say is "search for MY thread" where you're crying about and putting down HESCO, the developers of the MPI conversion and then suggest one should scam some unsuspection dealer to booty fab an MPI kit style balancer. I suppose you'll next recommend re-using a old balancer too?
Yer a real prince ...:rolleyes:

I resent that smart ass remark,Sundowner.

I said search MY name because I know (without searching) that I posted the exact same method before several times here and elsewhere. besides, you're encouraging poor ettiquite on part of the newbie.:flipoff2:

where you're crying about and putting down HESCO, the developers of the MPI conversion and then suggest one should scam some unsuspection dealer to booty fab an MPI kit style balancer. I suppose you'll next recommend re-using a old balancer too?

hesoc charges $400 for a kit that's made up of about $150 in parts and you wonder why I'd be upset with them.
booty fab? what do you think Hesco does? machine all-new balancers? and why WOULDN'T you machine the old balancer? do they go bad?:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Sundowner
and why WOULDN'T you machine the old balancer? do they go bad?:flipoff2:

They certainly do go bad.
The thick steel outer 'balancer ring is attached to the core wheel by thick rubber. That is how it 'damps'.
The rubber seperator DOES deteroriate, can develop slop and can even seperate.
Most of these guys have 100,000 - 125,000+ miles on thier rigs.
Get the picture?

Anywho, I'm glad you replied in a civil manner.
Alls forgiven. You just might make prince status after all!
:flipoff2:

Oh, BTW Parts Mike was one of the first to recommend the Ford pump ...

****************
"Posted by PM on November 11, 1999 at 08:08:23:

In Reply to: PM, Carb Engine to MPI Engine, Fuel pump requirements posted by YJMutt on November 10, 1999 at 20:53:05:
The one in the tank (stock YJ pump) works the best. The pump that was on the Ford E150-350 vans 1988-90, the Borg Warner parts number is EP7109 will handle the job and mounts externally on the frame close to the tank. Mike"

************

To elaborate on that dual pump concept ...

The MPI kit setup calls for a high quality fine filter before the external pump mounted close to the tank on the rear cross member.
The problem is these high pressue pumps push gas a lot better than they draw it, especially from a deep low tank.
It can be suggested one might want to install a clear, cleanable filter first and then an inexpensive (like a carter rotary, not pulse type) pump next.
The external pump is mounted down line, usually after the 90* turn to go up the right frame rail (which helps keep it out of the mud and water spray of the wheel) and THEN install the fine mesh canister filter. The reason for this being that when one of those high pressure pumps lets go, it desintergrates and will destroy your injectors. The canster filter will prevent that.

Anywho, I'm glad you replied in a civil manner.

I'm in a better mood today. I was busy throwing tantrums over on shit-shat yesterday. :flipoff2:

Iv'e a stock 94 damper in my CJ's 4.0L and it's yet to bad, I dont' think there's a big worry on a damper less than 15 years old on an engine with a 5500 redline. but that is my opinion. by that token, you could buy the hesco damper of your choice for $190(?) get the bracket seperate ($50) and the CPS ($50) and still come out under the hesco kit.

Thanks for the fuel pump clarification Jaffer. Sundowner, I will check out what you recommended. Looks like I've still got some more digging to do on JU and partsmike.

I saw on JU someone said that Hesco is bound to only sell at list prices because they manufacture for Mopar.. and Mopar doesn't want people buying their same stuff cheaper from Hesco.

Originally posted by mellocj

I saw on JU someone said that Hesco is bound to only sell at list prices because they manufacture for Mopar.. and Mopar doesn't want people buying their same stuff cheaper from Hesco.

Kohler Dodge consistantly has the best price ($1695) for the MPI kit.
I talked with Bennie at Hesco a while back and he wondered how they could sell it so cheap cuz they were making practically nothing on it.
I'm not touting this nor that. Just trying to help out and give good and acurate advice.
There are lots of ways to ...
In fact, I just recently bought an almost complete 4.3L GoodWrench crate engine for the price of an MPI kit ... and those who say "go 350" have a good point too.
What ever ...

Whew. After 1400 miles of driving on my rattly smoking tired 258, I now have my 4.0. I snagged it on ebay for 600, its from a 93 wrangler so the water pump should be good on it for my purposes.