I've been thinking about getting some 37s for the CC this year, so I bought one and had it mounted to see what mods I'd need to do in order for them to fit. I 'm going to re-read Shane's writeup on mounting his but I wanted to get some additional feedback from others as well. Originally I thought I could go to 4.5" bumpstops in the rear, trim the flares bigtime and maybe cut down the sliders and rear bumper. It looks like I'll have to tub the body a bit as well, which for me, is the delimma. For those that are curious my 35's w/~7-8K on them measure just under 34" and weigh 92lbs each mounted on 15X8 steelies. The 37 measures a hair over 36" on the same rim and weighs 102lbs.

Johnathan

2

3

4

Looks very do-able. Other than a body lift option, you can limit up-travel fairly easily by getting some 2" x 3" steel and placing it in between the bumpstop and frame. Lookin Good!

Way

I also bought some 37 x 12.50 today. Blew two sidewalls out last weekend on my 33" tires.

Originally posted by Way
I also bought some 37 x 12.50 today. Blew two sidewalls out last weekend on my 33" tires.

pics:D

Biggest problem area I've seen is the fender behind the front tires. Not only will the tires hit the outer fender, they likely will hit inside the fender well itself. There's a panel with a couple screws going through it that had to be bent back with a hammer inside the fender well. With 36s I've come into contact with this area on the driver and passenger sides.

My 36" sx's fit just fine. Oh, and you think 102lbs is heavy. Mine are 175lbs per tire and rim. Took 2 guys to put one of them on the balancing machine today. Oh, ,and they were out by around 1lbs of balance. So I just left them. i have been running them for awhile now on the street, and they are not to bad.

And I dont have fender flares, with 3.5 stops up front, and wheel well stops in the rear:D

Ok if you keep adding bumpstop, aren't you worried about getting tippy?

j

Kyle-

can you send me some pics of your inner and outer front fenderwell I'd like to see how much you trimmed(you are still running stock flares right?)

KC-

Hows the accel with 36s and the slushbox, do you run 4:1s? What about stopping power, I've noticed mine is crap now that I've got the auto and can't compression brake(with 35s).

Johnathan

37's on a Rover...that's TOO extreme...even for the Pirate board.

Ok,

someone help me out here. Are you guys going to do anything to the range of motion back after changing (lessening) up travel?

Way, I know that on yours with your new rear arms, now longer wheelbase and 3 link front that this isn't such a big issue. Yours is such a slinky I don't think 40's would be an issue.

Jon,

Didn't you get rid of your 3 link front?


Am I missing something here? Wouldn't you want to keep as much suspension travel as possible and lift the body Jon? I would think that the extra weight in tires would easily make up for the COG changes by lifting the body.



j

Originally posted by redrangie
Ok,

someone help me out here. Are you guys going to do anything to the range of motion back after changing (lessening) up travel?

Way, I know that on yours with your new rear arms, now longer wheelbase and 3 link front that this isn't such a big issue. Yours is such a slinky I don't think 40's would be an issue.

Jon,

Didn't you get rid of your 3 link front?


Am I missing something here? Wouldn't you want to keep as much suspension travel as possible and lift the body Jon? I would think that the extra weight in tires would easily make up for the COG changes by lifting the body.



j

it is very hard to do a body lift on a series or defender since the body is bolted directly to the frame with metal tabs, so it wouldnt be very easy to make a spacer that would work and look good.

as for the loosing stability by adding bumpstop, i disagree. the most important thing for stability in a articulated situation is to have a balanced suspension. this has less to do with bumpstops and more to do with spring rates and binding and such.

by adding bumpstop you will lose a *little* bit of stability, but not so much as to really notice. the loss is more than regained by the extra benefits of large tires.

an example of this is most competition buggies. the majority of them are running more, much more, droop than compression, and dont seem to have any problems.

Ok, tis, wish I coul dgive you some pics, but they would not do you any good. I did not cut any metal on the truck to fit the tires, minus trimming the rock sliders. My front tires compress all th way to the top of the wheel well , and so do the rears. The sx's measure out to a true 36. I am running 764's in the rear, and Disco blue and whites in the front. I am also running a fairly large offset on my rims, and the rims are hummer rims. I have hit the wheel wells a few times but so far I ahve not bent any sheet metal, but i am sure that i will if I dont add some stop.

As for rangies question, yes adding bumpstops does cause instability, but not all that much. But when you add stop, your shock's should be dropped almost the same amount to maintain travel. Compression should ideally be equal to your drop, but this is not always the case. It is always better to keep the truck as low as possible, and it is sometimes more desirable to cut sheet metal than give up the CG of an ultra low truck.

Originally posted by DieLucas!
37's on a Rover...that's TOO extreme...even for the Pirate board.

What??? We had 44" tyres under our Rover already at '95 here in Finland:D And after those we used 125cm tall tractor tyres.

Jare From Finland

Range Rover on 44"

....well ok it just looks Range Rover, but hey that seems to be the thing these days. How many built Zukis or Jeeps and Toys have their own axles, engine, trannies etc.

Our Range Rover had Unimog 411 axles and frame and suspension (rover coils though), chevy 350 and th-350 and unimog transmission and t-case. Part of the body was hand made.

Sorry there that I'm of the topic :rolleyes:

Originally posted by 9V


it is very hard to do a body lift on a series or defender since the body is bolted directly to the frame with metal tabs, so it wouldnt be very easy to make a spacer that would work and look good.

Hey,

Has anyone thought of/done a body/frame isolation upgrade? Just thinking that IF our bodies weren't bolted directly to the frame, and had a bushing or *something* (anything!) between them, the trucks actually might have a little less noise/vibration???

Just thinking out loud.....

FWIW...a Defender chassis already does have a kind of body lift in comparison to a series chassis. The outriggers and rear crossmember sit nearly 2 inches higher. (not exactly sure).

Yeah I have the stock flares but they have been trimmed on each end. I never cut the body on the front fender area, instead I put a space on the 3-link radius arms to move the front axle a little bit forward about 1/2". If you look at how the 3-link arms sit, at normal ride height they are straight out with no angle. When the front axle moves up it travels in an arc so it swings up closer into the rear part of the front fenders. The stock arms on the other hand should move forward when the axle comes up, because of the angle of the arms and the way they travel in an arc. For some reason this was more of an issue on my passenger side as it was the only side that was damaged by the tire coming up.

I almost went 37s myself, I had a 37-13 bogger and the 36-12.50SX both mounted on a wheel and there was little difference in size. You know the risks of bigger tires but with your finesse driving style and ability you'll probably get away fine with them.

I wouldn't look for me at the CC but Tyler has been threatening to come down.

Awesome Jare....Your fab abilities never cease to amaze me.

Good job man.

--D

Originally posted by Puffdragon
It is always better to keep the truck as low as possible, and it is sometimes more desirable to cut sheet metal than give up the CG of an ultra low truck.

Thanks KC,

That was kinda my point. More offset and less fender rather than loose travel without getting more droop.

j

Jon,

Didn't you get rid of your 3 link front?


Am I missing something here? Wouldn't you want to keep as much suspension travel as possible and lift the body Jon? I would think that the extra weight in tires would easily make up for the COG changes by lifting the body.

Still running the 3-link, and yes my goal is to keep travel and a low COG. I'd rather trim than add lift. The extra weight in tires is marginal and my concern was more in relation to axle fatigue.

Johnathan

Originally posted by Serious One



Has anyone thought of/done a body/frame isolation upgrade? Just thinking that IF our bodies weren't bolted directly to the frame, and had a bushing or *something* (anything!) between them, the trucks actually might have a little less noise/vibration???



My mate Tim (with the coiled 101) is building a 90 from chassis up. He is doing a 2" body lift at the same time, and for some reason he has also decided to lift the motor and box 2" as well. The fabbing required is fairly straightforward so far - but as he hasn't got it running yet I can't comment on how tippy it will be. He has some sets of 36 and 38 swampers so it will be intersting to see which ones fit... I'll get some pictures next time I'm out there.

Originally posted by Jtisdale
Still running the 3-link, and yes my goal is to keep travel and a low COG. I'd rather trim than add lift. The extra weight in tires is marginal and my concern was more in relation to axle fatigue.

Johnathan

Cool,

I thought you got rid of it. Well if you still have it, then loosing a couple of inches up isn't going to be that big of a deal. I would go with as much trim as I could get away with.

j

Hey Tis,
Here's what I did to fit my 37s on my D90.
I have 37x12.50R15 Swamper SSRs on 15x10 stockton beadlocks with a 4.25" backspace.
My suspension is the SG stage 3 from Grego including the 3-link. I'm still planning on doing some softer, longer springs from Rovertym, but those will have to wait a bit.

1. Remove stock fender flairs
2. Trim front and rear of the rock sliders by a couple inches (basically back to where the frame mount is)
3. Trim body panels in front and rear of each tire back about 2 inches at the bottom.
I did this by first straightening out the angle in the fender at the bottoms and working up towards the top, then trim and leave an extra inch of material that you will bend over again with duckbill vice grips to give the panel some strength. Then I got some cheapo universal fender flares from the local truck accessory story and bolted them on to at least have some flare out over the tire. The key on the front is to whack the inner fender near the footwell back until it is as flat against the footwell as you can manage. I still rub a little there. The rear part of the front fenders is trimmed back to even with the footwell as that's about as far as you can go and still keep your footwells intact.

5. The bumpstops should be extended to about 4-5 inches.
6. I still rub a bit, but it hasn't eaten anything off yet. The worst rubbing I have is the top of the rear fenderwells and the footwells in the front. Neither of which are horrible, just a little annoying.

good luck,
John

37's are on and fit well. Trimmed rear bumper/quarterpanels, rocksliders, front fenders, flares, and flattened fenderwell in front as Kyle and John noted. It looks like I need 4.5" bumpstops in front but the rear would have to be ~6.5 to make a difference. I'm going to leave them stock because the spring fully compresses, limiting up travel, before I get fenderwell contact. I'll post some pics soon.

Many thanks to Jim C. who gave up his weekend and helped(in the freezing cold) get this project done before the CC!

Johnathan

lets see the flex shots .......
i guess now its my turn to start cutting :D ... beadlocks for the 37s should be here next week...:bounce2: :bounce:
Troy