Im about to have my D60 front housing longside cut down and I wanted to be sure I got it down so the guy who is doing it understands me. Im not touching the pass side! My front (Toyota) perch width is 29". The D60 is 32.5". Is this basically what needs to be done?

Factory weld where housing meets knuckle removed.
Knucke removed from housing
Perch cut off and moved in to match 29" centers
3.5" cut off longside axle tube
Knuckle put back into housing, set angles, reweld knuckle

Now after that is done, I send the longside shaft to get cut and resplined, I tell them I need the inner shaft 3.5"shorter.

Does this all sound right?
:confused:

Thats how I did my 44 worked great for me.

Thats how you do it.

Wait a minute...Where is the pinion center relative to your t-case output? If your pinion is in line with your t-case output then you'll have to extend the short side too (to keep the same width...Or to keep your wms/wms and pinion centered, you'll have to have to cut 7" off the long side...And/or extend 3.5" on the short to keep the same width (that is if my coffee is working this morning). Unless you want to play with different backspacing on your left/right side rims...OR if you don't care about a little compound angle...Then don't worry about it.

Remember if you want to move your pinon over 1", then you will have to remove 2" of tube from one side to keep the axle centered, and live with a shorter dimention (wms/wms). Just think of tire dimeter...Increase from a 35" tire to a 37" tire and you end up with 1" better clearance (centered hub).

--D

Originally posted by RockRover
Wait a minute...Where is the pinion center relative to your t-case output?

Does it matter, will you loose sleep over it.

Originally posted by RockRover If your pinion is in line with your t-case output then you'll have to extend the short side too (to keep the same width...Or to keep your wms/wms and pinion centered, you'll have to have to cut 7" off the long side...And/or extend 3.5" on the short to keep the same width (that is if my coffee is working this morning). Unless you want to play with different backspacing on your left/right side rims...OR if you don't care about a little compound angle...Then don't worry about it.

WTF You would really spend all that time and money to move the pumpkin over an inch. How long do want your rig to sit in the drive-way, or in you're case how long do you not want to be able to cruise the mall?


Originally posted by RockRover
Remember if you want to move your pinion over 1", then you will have to remove 2" of tube from one side to keep the axle centered, and live with a shorter dimention (wms/wms). Just think of tire dimeter...Increase from a 35" tire to a 37" tire and you end up with 1" better clearance (centered hub).

Thanks for the lesson in measurements. Rick, I hate to break it to you, but he's right, do you know how much vibration you'll have out on the trail if you don't move that pumpkin over.

:flipoff2: Newbie, thanks for making my morning.

Originally posted by RockRover
Wait a minute...Where is the pinion center relative to your t-case output? If your pinion is in line with your t-case output then you'll have to extend the short side too (to keep the same width...
--D

Shouldn't matter... he's got a passenger drop and nothing is changing from the diff out on that side...think about it, the pass side spring perch is in the same location so nothing from the diff on out on that side will move.

Have some more coffee newbie :flipoff2:

Now if the diff is not located right currently when the passenger side spring is located on the existing perch you are correct.

Originally posted by jdjanda



WTF You would really spend all that time and money to move the pumpkin over an inch. How long do want your rig to sit in the drive-way, or in you're case how long do you not want to be able to cruise the mall?
Thanks for the lesson in measurements. Rick, I hate to break it to you, but he's right, do you know how much vibration you'll have out on the trail if you don't move that pumpkin over.

:flipoff2: Newbie, thanks for making my morning.

Well :flipoff2: you too Mr. Nugget. The 1" was used as an example...If he's using a Chev 60 front then his pinion offset is approx 8.5" to the right....I don't know what the off-set is on a Toy t-case front output, but if it's 4" (guess) correcting that should be something he should consider...Especially with frame rail clearance. If you look at the title of the post, it's about doing it right...Not what the fawk he can get away with...Man...Try to help and get flamed...Maybe you should switch to de-caff.

Originally posted by RockRover


... If you look at the title of the post, it's about doing it right...Not what the fawk he can get away with...Man...Try to help and get flamed...Maybe you should switch to de-caff.

Actually, I think everyone is saying the same thing...first get your pinion offset correct then see what you have to do to each side, if you're lucky you will only have to shorten one side

RockRover, you registered back in April I would think you've lurked enough to know :flipoff2: is not a flame but a little good natured newbie ribbing. Flaming is more like :mad3: or :flipoff:

:D

Ok, thanks for the info guys. I was just concerned with the how on cutting the longside down, just like the guys with the D44's on the Toyotas. I am not touching the pass side, first off because the perch is cast into the diff on a D60, second because I am technically running this axle full size. I just have to keep the distance from the center of the perch to the knuckle the same on both sides, regardless of the longside tube length. I see what your saying about moving the diff, but thats not a prob. All my rims will be the same and No it wont stick out more on one side than the other. That is why the longside gets cut and the short side does not to fit my perch width. As far as the shaft being a little different spot than straight on, I could care less, I'll never be able to tell.

Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to cut 3.5" out of the axle tube on the long side. Put a sleeve in it, set the caster, and weld it up. Grind the weld, so all your buddies don't ask you what the deal is???

That's all Sunray does.

Grinding the weld on the axle forging off, sounds like no fun.

Brian W

Originally posted by bwickert
Wouldn't it be easier/cheaper to cut 3.5" out of the axle tube on the long side. Put a sleeve in it, set the caster, and weld it up. Grind the weld, so all your buddies don't ask you what the deal is???

That's all Sunray does.

Grinding the weld on the axle forging off, sounds like no fun.

Brian W

This was another option I considered, but I like the other way better, don't know why, just do;) . I also feel it will look cleaner. I know you can grind it smooth and paint covers it anyway, but it wont matter now, the axle has been started on. Plus when we looked at the tube thickness, I couldn't believe how thick that front housing is. I did contact Sunray a while back. Although I have seen lots of their work, He made me feel like since mine was such a small project it would be put on the back burner until someone was able to do it. And they are only a couple of hours from me so that was nice, but the month or two time period I was not willing to wait for. Well my axle will be done by this weekend and I promise the price is right:D . And the work quality!

Thanks everyone

You are doing it the right way so don't worry about it.