: Zj - 249 ---> 231


CincyZJ
11-05-2001, 06:51 PM
I have a 96 ZJ 5.2 with 249 TC. I am trying to help out another Jeeper who needs my 249 by replacing mine with a 231 of unknown origin. I have no idea what Jeep it came from. I have tried eyeballing everything to see if it will bolt up but I'm still not convinced. It looks like the front shaft should be no problem. Just unbolt the U joint at the 249 and rebolt it to the 231 now the rear is a different story. The 249 case has the slip joint at the case I think. Just a hole on the back of the 249 accepts the driveshaft. The 231 on the other hand has the rear shaft exposed. My question is can I bolt this thing on so I can sell the 249? I won't be wheeling it until I get the final lift on and order the Tom Woods shaft and SYE combo.

Will the 249 rear driveshaft be compatible with the 231 output? It only needs to get me to work and back NO WHEELING.

Any other pointers or concerns. I assume the spedo gear ect can be transplanted.

Ken Williams
11-05-2001, 07:42 PM
NO WHEELING????:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

CincyZJ
11-05-2001, 08:08 PM
I'm not gonna wheel with the 231 til January when I get the 3" lift, SYE and DS installed. I just need it to be mobile until then. I'm gonna abuse the underside at Tellico this weekend as a matter of fact. Then its mod time for the rest of this year.

Rodney YJ
11-06-2001, 07:14 AM
See ya in Tellico this weekend.

Trango
11-06-2001, 07:36 AM
Yo cincy-

About 5 million people have done the input shaft swap on the ZJ board. Start there and do a search in the older forums for information on input shafts...

Bob

borton
11-06-2001, 11:55 AM
first off you'll have to take the imput shaft out of the 249 and stick it in the 231, make sure the teeth on the inside end of the shaft are not warn, if they are and you stick the thing together, it will put pressure on the shift fork and burn up the plastic washers on the fork then the destruction process snow balls. as far as the output (where the driveline hooks) if the slip from either shaft won't work swap them, or find a local driveline shop to fix your problem, its much cheaper to change a yoke or an end or build you a new shaft from your used parts than it is to have tom build you one, and they will be, most likely, the same quality.
tom dosen't sell anything special, just spicer stuff, that he buys from six states.

CincyZJ
11-06-2001, 06:08 PM
Guys thanks for all the advice. I left a message with George at Transfer Cases UNlimited and he will get back to me with the exact details. He mentioned 3 things while playing phone tag. The rooster inside that indicates what range I'm in. Not quite sure on that one. The input shaft most likely will need to be swapped from my 249. He also mentioned a seal or something that can be 2 different thicknesses. I think he will call me back in the morning and confirm this.

The front shaft he assured me is OK since I have a double cardon already its a simple u joint unbolt. as for the rear Borton was right. Woods makes great looking stuff but he wanted $550 which is too steep for my blood. I found a local place that will do a SYE and new rear shaft for $300. They did mention that with the 3.5" lift I may need it to be a double CV rear shaft. IS this a common thing I asume to overcome angles ect?

borton
11-07-2001, 07:29 AM
quincy, it is common to need a double cardon off the t-case, but another thing you can do is roll the rear pinion up, this will take some diffrent arms or adjustable ones,

bgc71
11-08-2001, 06:05 AM
I thought you are selling your 249? Or maybe you're using your buddy's input gear (not shaft) from his unit. The input gear is Grand Cherokee only from what I'm told. Also, compare the clocking position of the six mounting studs on both cases and make sure that they match. Anyway, the swap should be pretty easy, just get some good flat-tip snapring pliers and go to your local tranny shop and get some "ZEP" silicone to reassemble your case. It is NOT good to use parts store silicone. Have fun:smokin: :beer: :nuke: