Hey all gather up all the cool tide bits ya got on stock zuke axles.

Please help out by saying what/where it needs to go, else ill try to sort it best i can...

Suzuki Axles
-General Information
5x5.5" Bolt circle (same as jeep/ some fords etc)
weights?

-Gear Swap Info

- Birfs

- Bearings

- links

- ?

- ?

Thanks All !
-yag

Gear swap info link.:D

http://4play4wheelers.com/tech_ring_and_pinion_replacement_on_a.htm

Originally posted by jones
Gear swap info link.:D

http://4play4wheelers.com/tech_ring_and_pinion_replacement_on_a.htm

Thanx for the plug thats my article, I wrote for IZOOK last year. now i have to actually go find something to contribute

:D

Herees an article on birfield rings
orc tech (http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/reviews/rrbirfield.htm)

First – Get rid of the little breather cap and extend ½ or 7/16 fuel line from the dif vent up to high ground. The front I plumbed up near the intake to the air cleaner. The rear I plumbed up by the gas filler neck inside the tub.

WHY – After a day of running through mud (I usually avoid the stuff, but succumbed to boredome), before I got home I could hear the rear getting “crunchy”.
I changed oil in both the front and rear as soon as I got home.
Two weeks later I was installing a lockright in the rear because the mud and grit destroyed the thrust washers behind the spider gears. I could have just replaced the washers, but might as well do a lockright while I’m in there.

If you have an 88.5 Samurai – do the backing plate conversion when you pull the rear axles.
This will prevent you from having to disassemble the brakes and remove your backing plate next time you pull the axles. I bought the SJ410 bearing retainers for about $7.00 each from my local Suzuki dealer.

It is well worth it.

Here’s the web address with more info
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/tech/backplate.htm

Cut and paste into your browser
(I don’t know how to link stuff.)

LOCK RIGHTS
I was apprehensive about installing one in the rear and hurting my on road drive-ability.
I installed one in the front first and have had sore arms ever since.

DO NOT INSTALL ONE IN THE FRONT, UNTIL YOU DO THE REAR.

The install is simple and straightforward. Just make sure you mark everything and use lock tight on the ring gear bolts. Make sure you change the cross pins, the stock one’s won’t last.
The cross pins are supplied, just hidden in the bottom of the box.

The front locker really hurt me off-road without the rear. I would start up something, and the front end would starting “hunting” and got me into some bad situations,

Definitely put one in the rear first.

I love my rear one; on road I hardly notice it. You have to get used to pushing the clutch in when you are doing low speed tight turns or it lunges.
At high speed around curvy roads, it unloads sometimes. When it does, you have to make a small correction in the steering and keep driving. The first couple of the loud “CRACK” is un-nerving. But you get used to it. It will scare your passengers to death, though.

Definitely no substitute for having lockers off-road. I feel crippled driving a rig without them.
Just do the rear first.

I have had no reliability problems with them or birfields using 31’s.

DONT GO OVER 32'' TIRES ON STOCK AXELS!!!!

Godzuki.... i agree that you don't want to go over 32's with stock axles..... but ... i am running stock axles with 4.57's and lockers front and rear. i have installed birfield rings and have not had a problem. however i am always kinda nervous when i am wheeling around or i load a tire. my opinion skip building zuk axles and go straight to toy axles or d44's!:D

If you are going to keep the stock axles...the best thing to do early on for the rear axle is the backing plate conversion:

SJ410 backing plates on the SJ413 axles, with holes cut into the factory drum brake backing plate for the bearing to pass thru. theres a write-up somewhere.... this way oyu dont have to dismount the rear brakes to change out an axle and the spare axles are easier to carry becouse you dont need the backing plates.

this will cost under $30 to do, and save ALOT of time if you snap a rear axle on the trail. well worth it.

Thought I'd add for SJ guys that the old LJ gears(if you can find 'em) which are 4.56:1 something will drop right into your SJ housing. Also you can swap Barfields from an '85 Zuk into your SJ410 housings(but not complete axles) for a low buk way to beef:rolleyes: ya right, them up a bit.

howdy,

1985 sj410 e-brake assembly is a bolt on for 1986 1987 1988 and some 1988.5's. use the stock 1985 sj410 e-brake cable.

when installen a long diff brather tube use the hard line plastic yellow line. it is a coil and will allow the diff to flex with out pullen the line off.

1986 thru 1988 sammi have 12 mm flanges, some 1988.5 to. 1989 thru production end use a 14 mm flange.

samurai hubs are the same size as sidekick tracker hubs (check year for fit).

front third of the 1986 threw 1988, and some 1988.5 have 4 pins. 1989 threw production end are 2 pin.

you can run large tyres than 32's on the samurai axles, but you have to modifry them. silver bullet made front axle shafts that use the 26 spline with a toyota birfeild. calmini makes new beefy rear shafts. and the best thing you can do to save your axles is to use the lighter hub fuse.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by jimzuki
[B]howdy,

1985 sj410 e-brake assembly is a bolt on for 1986 1987 1988 and some 1988.5's. use the stock 1985 sj410 e-brake cable.



SJ410 model designation ended in 1984.

A 1985 is a SJ413(one year only North America)

1986 became Samurai.

Well up here in Hockey land anyways.

I had an 85 SJ410. Go figure.

If sticking with stock axles don't run bigger than 35's even if beefed, calmini makes alloy rear shafts, they also make front shafts that use a 26 spline inner that uses rear side gears, they are alloy steel 4140, it can also be used with a set of longfields, or stock birfields with birfield rings. Trail Tough also makes custom front axles, they are 26 spline alloy's 4340 ( use rear side gears) and have a custom birfield that is larger than factory, they also make a full floater kit for rear axle. If you will be runing in rocks go 33's max with either of these setups. If you are in the wet slimy climate some have been known to get away with 35's, but in my book that is pushing even the beefier shafts to the MAX..


Scott

Just my two cents:D I'm running stock axles with 5.38:1 R&P's, EZ-Lockers, 6.1:1 T-Case and 33x14 Boggers. No problems but still cautious:goofball:

E-Z lockers = shit
I broke one in just 2-days of serious wheeling....never again!
I went to mini-spools. I'd rather sacrifice some lose of streering over getting STUCK anyday!
Also, save your money on the stock front end and buy a either one of these:
Spidertrax 44 (http://www.spidertrax.com/drivetrain_sdw.htm)
Trail Tough 44 (http://www.trailtough.com/axle.htm)

dude chill, we all know there are better solutions to the zuke axle problems. This thread is an attempt to collect "stock" axle upgrades and mods for those who wish to do so.... Saying upgrade really doesnt help those needing tech from this thread...

IMHO, for a medium duty DD ish rig the zuke still pack more puch per pound than most others....

-mike

Now you can get smurfields from travis rankin in canada.. both birfs treated and sent to your door for like 70 american.. Oh ya run these with calmini 26 spline inners and it should be a good setup. around 310-320 bucks.. cuts Brent's double tough's cost in half..My 0.02

later, Scott:flipoff2:

Originally posted by zukipuke
dude chill, we all know there are better solutions to the zuke axle problems. This thread is an attempt to collect "stock" axle upgrades and mods for those who wish to do so.... Saying upgrade really doesnt help those needing tech from this thread...-mike I see you point. You seemed to have missed mine, being how the thread was evolving.
My point was to out right save money.
Any one of the venders metioned above pertaining to axle shaft 'up-grade' are only an expensive band aid. I've already have been down that road. It's a fact.

86 Daily driver
The rear axle bearing went south, got new ones and they are wider than orginal, do you through away the stock spacer that sets against the the outboard chamfer.

I put new bearings in mine and did not need the spacer. JC

This is a great thread---i am new to the sami and basically wanted somthin that would run 32"s---i got the &^$* kicked outta me by a sammi while drivin a yj--when i asked he said he had $2500 in it--compaired to my $11,000---but now that ive switched ive become super tightwad---i bought the runnin spua lifted, 4.56 geard, smog passin sami for $650 and its pretty clean---so why not spend a lil on it---well ya see--theres nothin like spankin on someone with a rig under $1000--especially one that gets made fun of so much---id live to put other axles under it---but would much rather keep the small stance if i can (squeese thru rather than go over) kinda approach---

finally i havent heard anybody talk bout the ultimate tightwad traction device---lincoln locker---how does this do in a sami stock axle--and i only prefer to do the rear---i know not as good as a spool or locker---but keep in mind---i have welding rod so my budget goes up nadawhich = more wow factor when they hear how littile $$ i have invested in it

I have been running a welded rear for almost a year and have not had any problems. Tire wear can be kept minimal if you take a bit wider corners and keep 32psi when street driving. A welded front is really s*^ty on the road and can hurt the arms with out hydro assist / power steering on the trails.

86 Samurai hubs can go onto 85 SJ413

Keep the weight down to avoid excessive load on each side.

85 SJ413 - Chopped & Decked

i am building a new axle for my sammi,after bending the old one and breaking a cv yesterday.
i have added a truss to the long side and armoured the diff casing.
i have birfield rings to fit and plan to fit them to a pair of japanese birfs i have rather than the spanish ones that are fitted which im told are weaker.
as we all know getting a birf off a shaft is a real pain,i want to know if i can fit my new birfs without the clips so it will be easy to change a shaft if i break one(the next weak link)

DO I REALLY NEED THE CLIP?

All I can say is Lincoln Locker approved :) I've ran welded sami diffs for about 3 years with 33" tires and I beat the sh*t out of them. no problems

For those who actually care - folks like me who are building a super light micro 2 seat buggy. My goal is under 1000 lbs. You can't do that with toy or dana axles :flipoff2:

Ya I searched- If it's posted here I guess I missed it.

Front samurai axle without rotors (mine were missing when I weighed it), with tie rod and drag link: 160 lbs. (for search purposes: #, pounds, weight, zuki, zook, )

Rear sammy axle without drums but otherwise complete: 99 Lbs.

Hey Guys,
Any one out there with a front locker the 4340s with 32's have any issues ? I play in the rocks.

- Jason

I play in rocks as well. Both my bud Bob and I run these with 33"s Pit Bull rockers, 4.16's and 5.12s. My axles are GEN IV (non-EMPI) with CTM 300M inner shafts. Bob's are the newer EMPIs.

We've been beating the friggin snot out of them, and no breaking. This included backing up STEEP rocks, turned to lock, with the front end bunny hopping. Normally, even ring'd stock Birfs puke at that.

Honestly, I think these new CVs make the Sammy axle a more do-able solution for the 35" and under crowd. Seems for 33"s, they are damn "bulletproof", whatever that means.

While I have 4140 Chromo rears, I really wish someone would come up with a 300M rear shaft. That would make the rear really strong, and I would then consider 35"s.

Above 35"s, its still Toy or Danas.

The thing that make a diference on tire size is the center of axle to ground.This is why some break axle with 33 and some can run 35.