Don't know who all has read it on the D-90 list yet, but my Defender is in the process of demodication to ultimately sell. The plan is to take the proceeds, buy an '87-'92 Rangie and, well, have fun building a vehicle up on my own as opposed to paying people to install things.

My original plan was to take the McNamaras out of the D-90 and drop them into the Rangie w/ a 24-spline conversion. But after looking at the cost of GBR's axle kits, I'm wondering if it wouldn't be more cost effective to sell the Macs and go after all-out different axles.

The only limitations I have -

I won't have a tow rig, so it'll have to be able to get to and from places five hours away. Of course, going from a D-90 to a RR, it'll be the lap of luxury no matter what.

I would prefer to not have to deal with mass relocation of key components such as, oh, the gas tank. Ample interior storage is part of my decision, so taking it away doesn't make sense.

I would prefer to not have to change out the t-case or tranny, since that is a whole other money pit waiting to happen.

Are something like 'mog axles even an option? Whatever I go to would have to be substantially stronger than the Mac/24-spline HD combo.

mogs are not practical for a non-towed rig. i could go into it now but it has been covered before.

whats your price range?

i would build a 35 spline SF dana 60 rear and run a D44 front.

Well - assuming base cost from Bill for 24-spline HD stuff front and rear, I'd be looking at $2400 in just parts. And then there is shipping, and the additional "Murphy's Law" cost.

I figure I could get a grand apiece for the Macs, give or take.

So let's say $4500 - $5000.

damn! definetly build some dans for the rig. what size tires are you planning? can you weld yourself?

get in touch with a race car shop that can build axles and talk to them about a SF dana 60 or ford 9" rearend for your app.

Matt,

Why use all the upgraded stuff when you can run your Mac. diffs, and some standard 24 spline stuff (lots avail. for pretty cheap). This will be an upgrade from the 10 spline stuff in the Rangie. Have you broken any axles running 35's in the 90? If not then why are you worrying about the Rangie? What size tires are you going to run?

Alternatively, give KC a call and he may be able to help you with the upgraded front end components (24 spline stuff) for less money than GBR. I have some used Ashcroft 24 spline axles I would sell you cheap.

If you are going to do the Dana route, then expect things to cost more than you expect, and you would have to have access to a real 4x4 shop for free/cheap and a very good welder/fabricator. If not I would stick with bolt on stuff for the Rover axles. I have contemplated this mod for a very long time and it is still not reasonable for me (even though I have access to all of the above). We shall see how all the stuff holds up to 38"s though :flipoff2:

Say:
Used front 24 spline axles and CV's - around $250
Used rear 24 spline axles - around $150 (upgraded about $200)
You do the install yourself - free:flipoff2:
A couple of tubes of swivel grease - $25

how about a grand total of $400 to $500 for the upgrade of the Rangie axles.

Used axle sources are: any junk yard with a Disco 1 or D90 or some of the online places like RoverCannibals.com, or from the many that have upgraded their axles, or from Bill at GBR who takes alot of stuff in trade for the upgraded stuff.:flipoff2:

Anyway, that is my take on things. Those that preach using non-LR axles are many. Those that have actually done it are few (maybe 2 or 3 successful).

Billster

Adam,

Planning on running probably 35's. Unfortunately, I can't weld...but have several friends that can, and one or two who are finally buying good welders.

Bill,

I'm still in the very advance planning stages of this - namely stripping down the D-90. Basically everything but the lift is coming off (unless I can find all OEM links, springs, shocks, and the wheels and tires for cheap) - the Macs come out this weekend.

Between selling the Defender and various parted out pieces, I'm going to have quite a war chest put together to put into making a badass Range Rover, considering they are readily available for a fifth the price.

Since the wife-elect has forbidden me from taking action until after the wedding (so I can concentrate on planning), I'll have plenty of time to figure out where I want to take things. But the dark voices in my head keep saying "axle swap" - which is almost pointless, given my overall driving style and the trails I run.

RE: 24 splines - I was under the impression that there were different shaft lengths based on MY (at least up front). Sorting through LR's axle machinations in the early '90s is pretty cumbersome.

Well - some good food for thought as I'm in the garage cleaning up the undercarriage...thanks guys

--Matt

Matt don't think you'll need the axle swap buddy. Yeah it'd be nice but let me tell you what a pain it is to make new links for an axle and brackets and such and that's if you have a pretty well set up shop. There is lots of welding involved and even when you finally get it back together there are lots of other considerations. You might want to do a search on the general board for 4 link setups and see what people are doing for thier rears and decide if that is something that you really want to tackle with the rangie. I think it'll be fine on regular 24 splines. I think that there are going to be several new options for cheaper upgraded stuff in the near future so keep checking back here. I know KC is working on some front stuff and I'm working on some rear stuff (I'm just the testing end as usual because I know how to break stuff and that's it) :flipoff2: :flipoff2: So I wouldn't worry so much about an axle swap until you really start breaking a lot of stuff. I've got a 24 spline 3rd drop me a line if you're interrested.

-ben

Ben,

I think the only time I've wheeled with you and you HAVEN'T broken anything was that lame LR Austin event. :flipoff2: I don't think I'll be needing any 3rds - the macs pretty much have me covered there.

I agree that I don't need an axle swap - its just the voices in my head tempting me. Since I have some time before all of this happens, its worth thoroughly exploring all options. And if I can track down stock 24-spline stuff for the $500 range, I could even pick up a complete set of spares and be perfectly happy.

Will the guts of a Disco I axle fit a pre-93 RRC? That's the big question.

Also - random and I'm not sure where to get an answer, but are D-90 radius arms interchangeable with RR radius arms? I'd love to keep my wrister if at all possible.

Originally posted by TxD90
Also - random and I'm not sure where to get an answer, but are D-90 radius arms interchangeable with RR radius arms?



Yes the D-90 arms are interchangeable with all NAS RR's. If you go to an early RR or 90-110 the arms, and the mounts are thinner.

-Jeff

you said you didn't want to swap out the t.case but the early 90's range rover t.case are not any good for hard off road use you will need to get rid of the borg warner box anyway if you want to run 35's
Drew

Originally posted by green rover
you said you didn't want to swap out the t.case but the early 90's range rover t.case are not any good for hard off road use you will need to get rid of the borg warner box anyway if you want to run 35's
Drew

Drew - I've heard they hold up fine unless tackling very difficult obstacles. And that swaps are very $$$. I think I'll see how I do with my planned modifications, and take things from there.

And while some of the stuff I take on here in Texas may seem difficult, I know it doesn't have anything on a Farmington or Moab...

Originally posted by green rover
you said you didn't want to swap out the t.case but the early 90's range rover t.case are not any good for hard off road use you will need to get rid of the borg warner box anyway if you want to run 35's
Drew

Drew I usually trust your judgement, but I know of more than one on 35's with a BW.

What's your thought there? Strength of the chain?

j

After doing some more digging (seem to be doing a lot of that these days) - the LT230 swap doesn't look all that bad. Modifying the console and sourcing the shift linkage could be rough, but aside from that, if it bolts up I'm pretty confident I could figure it out eventually.

Or, since I haven't actually purchased a RR yet, I can always just keep my sights on an 87/88 to stick w/ the LT230.

If you do the work your self, a 230 swap can be done for arround $750, or even less if you are resourcefull.

-Jeff

I saw two Borg Warner boxes in RRs give up the ghost in less than 200 yards on the same trail. Tough trail but not extreme. One had 35s the other had 33s, both locked in the rear and LS up front. Needless to say it didn't give me the utmost confidence in them.

Johnathan

I have to say that at least on open differentials, I think the borg-warner works better than the LT230 locked.

throw in a rear locker and the point is moot - but this is my observation from wheeling over the same trails alongside similar open-diffed/LT230 D1's

comparitively the BW unit seems to work very effectively in transferring torque from front to rear,especially during ascents - it also allows you to use a bit more throttle, and is easier to maintain momentum over obstacles.

not that you guys care much about this here, just thought I'd pitch in a vote for the BW based on stock'ish rigs -

cheers

isaac (zipping up)

i'm sure the tractive effort attainable on a 4500lb rig on 35" swampers is beyond the design limits of the viscous coupling.

dat dar is a lot o payeetas on the ground :D

Originally posted by SeaRover
i'm sure the tractive effort attainable on a 4500lb rig on 35" swampers is beyond the design limits of the viscous coupling.

dat dar is a lot o payeetas on the ground :D

Um, who's truck here weighs that little?

:eek:

j

I'm not sure if my Defender falls under 4500, let alone a Rangie!

ran B/W in my truck with 35's and front and rear lockers and it sucked at transferring power, didn't break it just wouldn't allow both drive shafts to turn at the same time in most instances. i do think it is a strong box but i feel the viscous coupling is at limits with bigger tires i would highly recommend the lt 230

Drew

Originally posted by green rover
ran B/W in my truck with 35's and front and rear lockers and it sucked at transferring power, didn't break it just wouldn't allow both drive shafts to turn at the same time in most instances. i do think it is a strong box but i feel the viscous coupling is at limits with bigger tires i would highly recommend the lt 230

Drew

Thanks Drew. I feel the same. I thought you were referring to strength. I think it has a lot to do with terrain as well. I think I will be all right, as I don't do silly obsticles just to say I "did it".

j

Um, who's truck here weighs that little?

mine? oh i forgot . . . all the shiitte you guys bolt on really weighs 'em down. no wonder you folks are always breaking axles :rolleyes:

.
.
.
just KIDDING!!


-isaac (going back to my corner . . . )