Found from my last trail run excursion that my tierod is (has been) contacting my swaybar bracket. The top of the "Y" joint is contacting and rubbing on the lowest point of the passenger side swaybar bracket when the wheels are cranked hard right even on level ground.

I'm currently running the RE Long Arm Lift and JKS adjustable disconnects. Apparently the drop pitman arm doesn't have enough drop angle to it as you can see that the joint is angled even on level ground. Have found that there is a bit of binding under flex which is definitely not good either.

Here's the possible plan:

1) Fabricate new swaybar mount to move the pin up at least 3-4 inches and shave off enough material to clear the tie rod. Only problem is that I'll have to either drill and tap a new mounting location for the securing pin on the frame for the new length or I'll have to re-adjust the swaybar link each time I disconnect it.

2) Possibly rotate the steering box downward depending on the angle of the steering linkage to better compensate for the angle. Problem here is that would take some engineering of the location (which is already tight) of the steering box mounts on the frame and probably would encounter issues with the linkage from the steering column to the steering box.

I'm open to any other suggestions should you have any ideas??

http://home.earthlink.net/~jrjolley/tierodprob_1.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~jrjolley/tierodprob_2.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~jrjolley/tierodprob_3.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~jrjolley/tierodprob_4.jpg

http://home.earthlink.net/~jrjolley/tierodprob_5.jpg

Either move the lower sway bar bracket, or increase the bend in the drag link. Total deflection on the drag link should be just under 2" and it'll work fine.

Paul

The easiest way to go would be to bend the drag link, and then adjust it out to compensate for the bend. How much drop does your pitman arm have? You could get one that has a little more drop, if it was too much, you would then have to drop your trac bar aswell to get it to handle right at speed.

If your steering and handling is good and you don't want to change it, I would say the best thing to do would be to raise the mounting point of your sway bar. Fabricate, cut off, and weld new one. Or, cut off old one, and weld an inch or however much you need on the bottom and re-attatch.

I would not recommend moving the steering box, at all, ever. That would probably just lead to more problems. My friend tried it on his jimmy, tried to lower it, and after failing to do it well, put it back where it was suposed to be, and then the frame cracked because of the extra holes he drilled, that were close to the original ones. Whatever you do, don't move the steering box!!

It is very possible that your drag link is bent inward in the first place. The point on the drag link where you are hitting is prone to bending in the first place. It's a week area.

Take the lift off and stay on the street where you belong :rainbow:


:fj:

Fawk it! Just slice off the mount and go crossover with hiems and DOM tubing. Relocate the mount if you really miss it :D Do a search, gobs of people have done this and there is more info out there than you could want. You'll be happier in the long run.

Originally posted by Jolleyman
http://home.earthlink.net/~jrjolley/tierodprob_5.jpg Umm is the tierod suposed to be bent like you see in this picture? if so move the the mount up and you have adjustable sway bar links so you can just shorten the passanger side one by the amount you moved the mount up. Seems pretty simple

The draglink is supposed to have that bend.

Mine doesn't hit the swaybar link, but it mashes into the steering stabilizer.

YES; it is supposed to be bent..... but.... at that mounting point where the steering tube attaces the drag link is known to bend more in either direction.

I bent my drag link in screwing around on dump bump back in September. I tried to put a hi lift inbetween the axle tube and the drag link, but it would not budge. We finally slipped a shackle around it and winched it open enough (gave it enough bend) to drive.

Bob