-tapping the tubing
-weld-in threaded inserts??
-welding on nuts

Just wondering what the dis/advantages are to each strength-wise??

I would really like to hear that everyone is welding nuts on, just because that's so cheap. I don't know much about the threaded inserts, but it seems tapping is the most expensive choice.

I'm just threading the tube with a tap. I don't think welding on nuts would be even close to strong enough, but, to each his own. What size heims are you using?

I haven't decided what size yet?? What all is involved in tapping the links (tools and $$$$). I'd rather do it myself then pay somebody else to do it.

Well first you need the right size tap $10-$25 . Then a tap handle, but you could use a rachet handle. Don't forget the WD-40.

Originally posted by convertiyota
I haven't decided what size yet?? What all is involved in tapping the links (tools and $$$$). I'd rather do it myself then pay somebody else to do it.

For 3/4-16
one LH tap 16.00
one RH tap 12.00
One tap handle 14.00
one 11/16 drill bit. 18.00

Originally posted by convertiyota
I haven't decided what size yet?? What all is involved in tapping the links (tools and $$$$). I'd rather do it myself then pay somebody else to do it.

If all of your heims are right hand thread the tap won't be too expensive, Just get the right size tube and screw the sucker in. No big deal.

-The only disadvantage of running all RH is that it's not as easy to lengthen/shorten, right??

-Where's the best/cheapest place to get all the taps and handle from??

Tool Town around here. Try any industrail supply house. Stay away from places like Home Depot or Lowes they'll be expense. Try J&L Industrial for mail order +1 (800) 521-9520

Anyone here using sleeves? I want to make heavy duty DOM steering links when I do crossover steering and I'm thinking about using sleeves

Originally posted by convertiyota
-The only disadvantage of running all RH is that it's not as easy to lengthen/shorten, right??

-Where's the best/cheapest place to get all the taps and handle from??
I shopped around and found great $$ and good service here:
http://www.victornet.com

Originally posted by convertiyota
-The only disadvantage of running all RH is that it's not as easy to lengthen/shorten, right??

Correct, I bought mine used and it was a homeade setup along with the hy-steer arms. All RHT. I thought it would be a PITA to get it right, but it's a just a heim. Take the bolt out and get the desired length, and put it back in. No big deal.

Here's some garbage I wrote a while back....probably overcomplicated as usual.

The slugs cost me $3.60 each

Using the threaded slugs might give you superior threads than having the
local shop cut the threads in the end of the tubing, particularly if the
slugs have the threads rolled and not cut. In fact, it is now not
permissible to have cut threads on SAE rated fasteners.

I'd at least want to see how buddy is going to cut the threads, especially
in a 3' tube, and if he's just going to turn a big tap in the end by hand
I might be worried. Not to mention there are pages and pages of references on
different thread forms ( R type, J type etc.) , radius at the root, pitch,
profile, different classes of thread (2, 3, 5 etc. - not to be confused with
grades of fastener (2, 5, 8 etc.))etc and I'd want to be sure the male
threads on the TRE were the same as those cut in the tube. The
rod ends and radius slugs I use are designed to work together. However, I’m probably overcomplicating the thread form concern (as usual) and they’re all probably some sort of SAE standard, so this is likely not a big concern (other than the previously mentioned bit about SAE not allowing cut threads – I guess in the past some SAE bolts used to have cut, rather than rolled threads, and they were not as good. Hey, now I think about it, How are the internal threads on and SAE nut “rolled”?? Can’t se how it’s done??)

To see the radius slugs and how they fit in the tube look at look at pics 2462 and 2463 in the “XJ Hybrid axle” album at

http://photos.yahoo.com/bcaliftan

Essentially they are a tight slip in fit inside the tube about an inch, and
the edge is beveled for the weld.

Also, note the "radius" after the main body and before the end, where the
jam nut is. In terms of flow of stress and therefore fatigue life, this is
a superior feature over just having the threaded tube end abruptly at the
point where the threaded shank of the TRE enters. The abrupt change in
diameter causes a concentration of stress and forms a weak point at this
area, as the stress flowing along the tube has to "bunch up and get around
the sharp 90* corner" formed at the abrupt change in radius. That's why I
keep calling them "radius" slugs.

One more thoght about slugs vs tapping tube.

Obviously tapping the tube you are limited to the alloy the tube is made
from, and I'm not sure your standard low carbon 1020 DOM mild steel is the
best thing for thread forms.

On the other hand, the slugs can be made from an alloy better suited to
thread forms, as long as it is weldable to the tube.

anyone have some web pages for slugs?

I used 1026 DOM tubing, with tubing adapters made from the same type steel, turned adapters down to fit inside the tube, cut with left and right hand threads. left interference fit of .007, press fit the adapters in to the tube and welded um up. You can see um at http://www.superford.org/registry/?vID=144

m.o.r.e sells tubing and the end inserts and hiems also
http://www.mountainoffroad.com/catalog/Rod-Tube%20Ends/Rod-Tube%20Ends.htm

use 1 1/4 weld in inserts

I'm pretty sure these guys have the slugs:

http://www.afcoracing.com

and prob.

http://www.bicknellracingproducts.com/

these guys do:

http://www.bakerprecision.com/rodacc.htm

and

http://www.chassisshop.com/npta.html

Only prob is - nobody makes them in anything larger than 3/4-16.

Any enteprising machinists wanna start turning out 7/8-18 so the 1 ton TRE's can be used???

there commin...

I've delt with www.colemanracing.com and had no problems.

You can buy custom length panard bars made from 1.25 OD x .28 wall DOM with 3/4" Aurora heim joints(not the tephlon ones) for $71.80. 40" and under are $65.25.

They also have the 3/4" R or L slugs (threaded tube ends) for $4.65 each.

Price seems good, but will the aurora heims hold up?

TIA

I bought my weld in adapters from Baker Precision (http://www.bakerprecision.com) . They were for 3/4 rod ends. They were $12 each. They are 1 1/4 OD and they fit 3" into the tubing

for my rear links i used 1.75 .250 wall dom and made my own inserts from 1.5 .250 wall dom . my heims are 13/16 thread which is a odd ball size.


i taped the inserts and welded them into the link.

Camo, what made you decide to set up the rear links like you did?

Here's a pic of a 3/4 with a "bung" attached. I use these on all my links.....looks cleaner to install.....Weld the "bung" in the DOM and your done.....:D :beer:

Originally posted by Shaker
Here's a pic of a 3/4 with a "bung" attached. I use these on all my links.....looks cleaner to install.....Weld the "bung" in the DOM and your done.....:D :beer:

Hey Sean E-mail me and I'll send you the pics..... cfryer9968@home.com

try 1 more time:mad: :mad:

What size tube do you use with those "bungs" for a 3/4 inch heim? 1 1/4 x .120 wall?

Any enteprising machinists wanna start turning out 7/8-18 so the 1 ton TRE's can be used??? Avalanche Engineering started machining 7/8 18 thread tube adapters about 1 month ago. They fit 1" ID tubing and run $12.25. Jam nuts also are available. They do not appear on the website , but are available. Clifton:jeep: http://www.avalancheengr.com/parts/steering/Imga0039_med.jpg

Originally posted by GhettoRig
What size tube do you use with those "bungs" for a 3/4 inch heim? 1 1/4 x .120 wall?

Those right there are for 1.25 x .095 but you can "sleeve" it with a piece of 1.5 x .058 and it will be real thick/strong......:beer: :D