Lots of wrenching, but mostly trivial stuff.

Drain plug in front diff.
Front breather tube
Replaced front brake pads, the old pads had come loose in the rivets, and the driver side had blown out a quarter of the pad...
Rear brakes adjusted out a long, long ways (stops much better now)
Raised the bottom mounting point of front shocks so it is fully above the bottom of the axle
Measured and marked steel plate to bolt onto upper rear shock mount holes, to move upper shock mounts inboard.
Ground steering stabilizer bracket off front axle...
Rattle canned my wheels black again (hammertite)
Buttoned everything up tight.

So, 4.10 gears in there now, with lockright in the rear and detroit ezlocker in the front. New wheel bearings at all four corners. New brake shoes and pads. New front diff bearings and seals. New rear axle seals.

Not much to brag about, but it should be a lot happier on the trails. Now I have to save for some larger tires...

Took it out for a spin, first time in a couple months. I had forgotten how much fun it was to drive....

Didn't get a whole lot accomplished. Finished gettin the 345 block completely cleaned. A couple other parts cleaned. And Oh! discovered a little nick in the #1 cylinder yesterday, that made me real happy! :mad: Gawd I hope honing them out will take care of that. Can't afford a boring out job, and new pistons.

worked

Got to go wheelin' Saturday at Elbe. Sorry no pictures(wife didn't go) Had a good day til' the end when I laid my windshield against a tree and cracked the pass. side.
Started working on the RV Sunday gotta get it ready for memorial day. It needs alot of work after putting it away mad in November.:(

finished rear bumper and rock sliders, got 4 points of cage mounted to frame, just have rear hoop to mount to frame... finished electrical...ran out of por 15 to finish bumper, rock sliders, diffs, the only things left are to reinstall on board air tank and lines, buy weld in beadlocks, and buy soft top , then wheel the fawk out of it again....:p

and yes the mud flaps have quick connects, I live in friggin Utah.. oh ya and put the other seats back in:rolleyes:

Originally posted by harkinoff
finished rear bumper and rock sliders, got 4 points of cage mounted to frame, just have rear hoop to mount to frame... finished electrical...ran out of por 15 to finish bumper, rock sliders, diffs, the only things left are to reinstall on board air tank and lines, buy weld in beadlocks, and buy soft top , then wheel the fawk out of it again....:p

You really need a couple dents in that thing. It sure is purrrtttyyy

Originally posted by Hooper


You really need a couple dents in that thing. It sure is purrrtttyyy


yes it needs some dents, rust, something.. its a trip to drive it now, totally different from old body.. everything works:cool:

looks very good harkinoff, i like that cage as well...did you mount it straight to the frame or did you have a bushing in between a plate from 1 tube to the one on the frame???

adjusted timing so it quits running like shit, pre-inspected everything so I can get it inspected today...forgot to check the license plate light, so of course, it doesn't work:mad: I'll fix that tonight. Then I need to do some general maintence to prepare for the big breakdown this weekend. Selling off the axles and tires and rims, making room in my garage for a 60 and a 14 bolt. :D It's gonna be a fun spring:D Maybe I'll get everything done in time to hit the trails this summer, man that would be sweet.:D :bounce:

I was werkin....:flipoff2:
http://hoslap.net/pimp.gif

Gettin ready for a gallon of Duracrap.

Originally posted by Joe V
Gettin ready for a gallon of Duracrap.

Took me a gallon and a half to do mine...

I dropped off my 345 block to be bored .020 over, cleaned, decked, and have new freeze plugs and cam bearings installed. While there, I picked up my rods, pistons, crank, harmonic balancer and clutch from being balanced. Hopefully will have the motor ready to drop in next week.

Did jack squat! It was Valentine's day and the wife b-day this weekend, so I was a little busy....

But this morning I did get my waggy pitman arm swapped in. MAN! What a difference that made in the power steering assist... I knew it would make a difference but. WOW! It is better than new, on finger on the wheel parked in the garage and I was turing it lock to lock - no power steering whine at all!! With the high-steer and the long azz scout pitman arm the pump made all sorts of noise and didn't like to turn when I was parked.

Now why didn't I tackle that 20 minute job a month ago???

RACING, of course.

Two weekends in a row with minimal carnage. Woo-hoo!

Supposed to be an "ice race" in Bozeman.. turned out to be more mud..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun32/icerace012.thumb.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun32/icerace017.thumb.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun32/icerace019.thumb.jpg

More Pics, Video Clips (http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/postnuke/modules.php?set_albumName=albun32&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)

I finished 4 out of 4 in the Unlimited class. :D

I had a hard time keeping my foot out of the throttle, and the course was too mucky to get any traction.. but the crowd enjoyed it. :D

Still won a boatload of prizes at the end of the day.. some Mechanix gloves, 2 cans of Brake Cleaner, and a roadside repair/safety box with a 12V compressor, safety triangle, jumper cables, first aid kit, and a bunch of other stuff. :D

Had the only Farm Equipment there, too.

Still waiting on my 2.5" heater core from my radiator guy to put my trail rig back together.

Did pick up my YK kit for the front 60 while I was in Bozeman (finally.. bought it in September), and got the front hubs and stub shafts for the 60 in the mail on Monday. :D

Originally posted by tsm1mt
RACING, of course.

Two weekends in a row with minimal carnage. Woo-hoo!

Supposed to be an "ice race" in Bozeman.. turned out to be more mud..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun32/icerace012.thumb.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun32/icerace017.thumb.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun32/icerace019.thumb.jpg

More Pics, Video Clips (http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/postnuke/modules.php?set_albumName=albun32&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)

I finished 4 out of 4 in the Unlimited class. :D

I had a hard time keeping my foot out of the throttle, and the course was too mucky to get any traction.. but the crowd enjoyed it. :D

Still won a boatload of prizes at the end of the day.. some Mechanix gloves, 2 cans of Brake Cleaner, and a roadside repair/safety box with a 12V compressor, safety triangle, jumper cables, first aid kit, and a bunch of other stuff. :D

Had the only Farm Equipment there, too.

Still waiting on my 2.5" heater core from my radiator guy to put my trail rig back together.

Did pick up my YK kit for the front 60 while I was in Bozeman (finally.. bought it in September), and got the front hubs and stub shafts for the 60 in the mail on Monday. :D

That looks like more fun than I had!!

Originally posted by snoop dogg
looks very good harkinoff, i like that cage as well...did you mount it straight to the frame or did you have a bushing in between a plate from 1 tube to the one on the frame???

its mounted straight to frame, the floor board is sandwiched between two 3/8" plates bolted together, so cage can be unbolted and removed without cutting... I used 2" square stock coming off of beefed boxed frame to meet cage hoops

'bout all i did this weekend was propose to my lovely girlfriend.










































she said yes :flipoff2:

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3
'bout all i did this weekend was propose to my lovely girlfriend.
she said yes :flipoff2:

So when is the big day?

You're right! It was Valentine's Day. And I spent it with my Scout. Got the coils mounted and started on the lower control arms. Can't seem to find very many people who can bend 1/4 wall tubing? Pulling the Vortec 350 from '97 Z-71 and preping for installation to the Scout tranny. Picked up the 203 output shaft after being resplined for the Ford 205. Got the Rockwells Licoln locked. AND, managed to squeeze some wheelin in with some friends at some event called "Zukifreeze" and believe me it was! Severe storms Friday night and then it snowed all weekend. You can check out the pics on this board over at the Suzuki board. All in all, it was a full weekend as usual.

1/4" wall tubing? Don't they call that sch 80 pipe?
HF bender.:D

not sure. I just know they call it either 1/4 wall or 0.250 wall.

Not actually a weekend report - but today the weather actually was excellent for wrenching - high of 35!!! First day above freezing in way too long.

So I got into the brother inlaws garage for a solid morning of wrenching.

Slapped a rebuild on my AC air compressor - it had been freezing up in the cold azz weather. Took OS advice and ran some alcohol through the lines and tank. Seems to have cleaned it out pretty good. While I was at it I chased down a couple little leaks in the system.
Built some new front shock mounts, both upper and lower --- ran out of welding wire about mid project :mad: and I knew I was about out when I started....

Realized as my SOA has settled over the last month, my Tie Rod is hitting the bottom of the springs!!!! :mad: :mad: Now I gotta figure out a solution for that!

And it was almost ready to wheel again....

Originally posted by Hooper


So when is the big day?

havent set a date yet, but it'll prob be some time next spring... i want little Hunter to be my ring berer.. and since he's not due till mid may....
but every one will be invited to the reception.. it'll be out in snohomish.. many kegs involved :D

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3


havent set a date yet, but it'll prob be some time next spring... i want little Hunter to be my ring berer.. and since he's not due till mid may....
but every one will be invited to the reception.. it'll be out in snohomish.. many kegs involved :D

Very cool. Reminds me, we are playing out at reider pit Saturday. It would be nice to have another IH along...?

where is reider pit any way...?

I have only lived in this area for about a year now and hopefully will be able to come and play someday...

I can't wait to find the trails around here this year! I at least got to watch the entrance to the trail that they just closed...what was it again...Highrider?

Hooper, I P.M. you about Saturday. Please get back to me when you have time Thanks TT:)

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow
where is reider pit any way...?

I have only lived in this area for about a year now and hopefully will be able to come and play someday...

I can't wait to find the trails around here this year! I at least got to watch the entrance to the trail that they just closed...what was it again...Highrider?

Reider Pit is off Hwy 2, East of Sultan and Startup. You take two, past startup, past the McDonalds there, then take a left on Redier Road. Follow it to the Y, take the right fork, follow that for about 10 minutes, and you will see a large open gravel area on the left. That is the meeting/parking area.

Originally posted by uglyscout
Realized as my SOA has settled over the last month, my Tie Rod is hitting the bottom of the springs!!!! :mad: :mad: Now I gotta figure out a solution for that!

And it was almost ready to wheel again....
It's called high-steer. A couple of flat tops and a couple of steering arms.

Originally posted by Hooper


Very cool. Reminds me, we are playing out at reider pit Saturday. It would be nice to have another IH along...?

any one got one the want to lone me so i can drive? remember, i sold my flamed 800 in dec...:(

Originally posted by TORC

It's called high-steer. A couple of flat tops and a couple of steering arms.

No it's called high-steer with only the drag link raised. I've got the flat tops knuckles and a steering arm. :p

I didn't raise my tie rod as I was unsure if it would clear the engine, while at the same time clearing the tops of the springs...

Originally posted by TORC

It's called high-steer. A couple of flat tops and a couple of steering arms.

He already has raised drag link. His springs are hitting his tie rod, so he has to deal with raising his tie rod above his springs now.

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3


any one got one the want to lone me so i can drive? remember, i sold my flamed 800 in dec...:(

Rats. Forgot about that. Sorry.

Originally posted by uglyscout


No it's called high-steer with only the drag link raised. I've got the flat tops knuckles and a steering arm. :p

I didn't raise my tie rod as I was unsure if it would clear the engine, while at the same time clearing the tops of the springs...
That's what I'm sayin'...... the answer to your problem is called high-steer. Get the frickin' tie rod up above the springs. :rolleyes:

Notice I said a COUPLE (that means two) of flat tops and a COUPLE (yup, it still means two) steering arms.

Originally posted by TORC

That's what I'm sayin'...... the answer to your problem is called high-steer. Get the frickin' tie rod up above the springs. :rolleyes:

Notice I said a COUPLE (that means two) of flat tops and a COUPLE (yup, it still means two) steering arms.

Torc, how did you handle your tie rod to engine clearances? I have seen several IH rigs with the tie rod raised that slammed the tie rod into the oil pan...

Originally posted by Hooper


Torc, how did you handle your tie rod to engine clearances? I have seen several IH rigs with the tie rod raised that slammed the tie rod into the oil pan...

Ditto on the question.

TORC-
Also High steer is technically only the drag link.... but lets not worry about symantics... Thus I have high steer ;D - But know exactly what your saying...

lift springs on SOA with reverse shackle. But I did change some things earlier this week and it's in pieces again. I hope to be putting the knuckles and all back on tonight... we'll see if I now have a problem or not. Update forthcoming......

Originally posted by TORC
lift springs on SOA with reverse shackle. But I did change some things earlier this week and it's in pieces again. I hope to be putting the knuckles and all back on tonight... we'll see if I now have a problem or not. Update forthcoming......

Yep, that works, in most wheeling applications. But, how would you do it if you did not want to use lift springs...? And, lift springs should increase the static distance between the tie rod and the oil pan, but on compression (dropping off a ledge, etc) what keeps the engine/frame from coming down onto the tie rod? Your springs should be flexy enough that you still get full articulation and axle movement.... which means your tie rod and oil pan can still mix it up, right?

Originally posted by Hooper


Yep, that works, in most wheeling applications. But, how would you do it if you did not want to use lift springs...? And, lift springs should increase the static distance between the tie rod and the oil pan, but on compression (dropping off a ledge, etc) what keeps the engine/frame from coming down onto the tie rod? Your springs should be flexy enough that you still get full articulation and axle movement.... which means your tie rod and oil pan can still mix it up, right?

Yeah, I suppose so. I'll have to wait a while longer until I can get it flexed up on forklift or something, but I imagine the trail test will be the real test as to whether or not to tie rod feel like playing whack-a-pan

Originally posted by TORC


Yeah, I suppose so. I'll have to wait a while longer until I can get it flexed up on forklift or something, but I imagine the trail test will be the real test as to whether or not to tie rod feel like playing whack-a-pan

Right, a fork lift test will not do it. Most springs have a sufficient spring rate that the frame will move away from the axle enough to keep the tie rod out of the oil pan, even up on a forklift. The problem arises when the weight of the front end comes down with inertia onto the springs.

Good case at roundup last year. Dan, (Binderbound) had just finished his high steer. At roundup, for part of the obstacle course, vehicles have to drive perpendicularly over a log about 8 inches high. Part of the competition is to drive it without using brakes. When his from end came off the log, it dropped fully down, evenly on his front springs, and tagged his tie rod hard enough to crease his oil pan.

One solution would be to lower your bumpstops enough to keep the oil pan and tie rod separate, but then you are giving up articulation... Stiffer shocks will also mitigate the problem, but not eliminate it.

Another would be to RAISE your engine, although that is not a good option. Also, an oil pan with a higher front sump would help. Moving your engine back so the tie rod goes in front of the pan would also solve the problem. IH solved the problem by putting a dip in the tie rod, and that was for SUA rigs.

Some type of bump stop, in near the center of the axle, that would decrease the impact of the tie rod against the oil pan would work, and would not sacrifice much (any?) articulation....

It is not a problem that happens very often, but hit the oil pan hard enough, and either the tie rod, or the pan are going to be very unhappy.

Well, I didn't get the tie rod on last night. Turns out that with the changes I made earlier this week, my tie rod and springs are now trying to occupy the same space. *sigh* I have to deal with issue now, but I think I have a work around. I did mount the left side rubber for giggles though....
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001521.JPG

I have a slight interference problem with the calipers and the inside of the custome BS wheels, so the calipers are in need of a smidge of clearancing.
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001526.JPG

No problems with tie rod end to tire clearance though :flipoff2:
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001524.JPG

Originally posted by Hooper

It is not a problem that happens very often, but hit the oil pan hard enough, and either the tie rod, or the pan are going to be very unhappy.

Denting the oil pan, or bending the tie-rod is a fixable problem.

Breaking the oil pump off the block ala Terry K, is NOT fixable.. particularly in the field. :D

I got some work done last night..

7 of the 8 con-rods are ready for the flap-wheel.. should be able to send a bunch of stuff to the machine shop Monday.. rods for reconditioning, then assemble with the pistons, turn flywheel, and balance the whole mess..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun36/DCP_0006.sized.jpg

Then, since I'm still waiting on my new 2.5" heater core.. I started upgrading the blower based off some tips from Steve T. Steve's Heater Upgrade (http://www.justscoutnaround.org/heat.htm) ..

I'm just going to the bigger squirrel cage. $20 mod.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun22/DCP_0016.sized.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun22/DCP_0018.sized.jpg

Oh.. did some decorating over the last week, too.. :D

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/gallery/albums/albun22/DCP_0025.sized.jpg

Hmmmm..... interesting location to store a can of Glyptol, Tom.....

Originally posted by TORC
Hmmmm..... interesting location to store a can of Glyptol, Tom.....

Creative, aren't I? :D

Makkat asked about it when he was here two weeks ago, too. :D

Mostly, I couldn't get the lid back on (probably because I grabbed a sandwich bag instead of the saran-wrap).. had my Quick-grip handy to hold it down tight.. but it doesn't stand up so well.

:idea: Hey, I haven't finished hanging shelves yet, and there's that shelf bracket right there...

I'll be Glyptal'ing the 392 soon so I'll find a better storage method when I'm done. :-)

Originally posted by TORC
Well, I didn't get the tie rod on last night. Turns out that with the changes I made earlier this week, my tie rod and springs are now trying to occupy the same space. *sigh* I have to deal with issue now, but I think I have a work around. I did mount the left side rubber for giggles though....


I don't want to say it but... :flipoff2:

http://www.hundekeandroyal.com/graphics_ebay/products/haha.jpg

I had to use a 1" block under my high steer arm to get the drag link no to want to pass through the springs... And with my engine in the stock location, and hoping for tons of travel, I didn't think my tie rod and oil pan would get along.

I would have been just fine, but I shot myself in the foot when I made changes to the spring hanger. D'oh!!!

Originally posted by TORC
I would have been just fine, but I shot myself in the foot when I made changes to the spring hanger. D'oh!!!

On another note - looking at your TRE's did they have gouge marks in the threads when you bought them? When I bought mine every single one had a gouge in about the same spot. Just wondering....

Originally posted by TORC
I would have been just fine, but I shot myself in the foot when I made changes to the spring hanger. D'oh!!!

Why did you make changes to the spring hanger and what changes did you make???

Originally posted by uglyscout


On another note - looking at your TRE's did they have gouge marks in the threads when you bought them? When I bought mine every single one had a gouge in about the same spot. Just wondering....
I didn't look super close at them, but I didn't notice any gouging. FWIW, I'm using the 7/8" GM stuff. (1) ES2027L (2) ES2234R's & (1) ES 2233L.

Originally posted by Hooper


Why did you make changes to the spring hanger and what changes did you make???
Didn't like my original design... wanted something beefier. The new design was a little shorter. I just need to shorten the shackles by an inch and slip a 2* shim under the springs and that should do it.

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3
she said yes :flipoff2:
ANOTHER ONE BITES THE DUST! Congrats...welcome to the club.

I may have covered some of this stuff previously, but here's the picture version of it.

1) Sold old cage for $250
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0670.jpg

2) Built new trans crossmember and got it mounted.
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0725.jpg
2.5) Oh, I also built the Cantilever's (those are the small things hanging from the forklift)
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0730.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0744.jpg
3) Test fit T-case (didn't have right bolts ~ DO NOW!
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0731.jpg
4) Modified old steering column for new wheel and PS setup.
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0797.jpg

MY GAWD!!!!!!! How much weight have you added to that thing? The cross member, judging by the radius of the tube looks to be 1/4" and all of the 12 ga. floor plate, are you building a tank?

Originally posted by Scoutillac
MY GAWD!!!!!!! How much weight have you added to that thing? The cross member, judging by the radius of the tube looks to be 1/4" and all of the 12 ga. floor plate, are you building a tank?
Actualy the floor plate is 14 guage (just heavier than the 16 ga. stock floors) and the crossmember is 2"x2" with 3/16" all ~ the rise being 1/4 angle gusseted by more 1/4" plate. The whole crossmember is like 10 lbs or less. And I don't care to measure the flooring. I wager that the new cage, 22 gallon fuel cell and my custom hummer rim w/ a 38.5x14.50 spare is going to weigh it down some too.

I should have went to 5.86s. Perhaps a 345 head and a header will give me an extra bit of HP to get it moving. :)

Looking good Snoopy, did you ever get those new springs under it?

Originally posted by TERRA-IZER
Looking good Snoopy, did you ever get those new springs under it?
You mean these ones?
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0718.jpg
Yup...even got the Cantilevers made for the back
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0722.jpg
The front springs are in, I'm goint to set up the axle this week. Then I'm going to finish the rear pivoting perches, 2-link and install the Cantalevers.

Even got the Hummer rims blasted and the new 3/8" centers are at my machinist for the lug holes. The outer rings have been powdercoated white hammer and the insides will be black once the centers come back and are welded in (monday-tuesday).

finally got the tires!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!http://photos.imageevent.com/capaz/scout/large/scout%20v%203.1%20024.JPG

nother onehttp://photos.imageevent.com/capaz/scout/large/scout%20v%203.1%20019.JPG

for anyone wondering, 38-13-16 tsl on 16x8 4"backset. overall width in front is 81.25" bulge to bulge.
http://photos.imageevent.com/capaz/scout/large/scout%20v%203.1%20017.JPG

Originally posted by Snoopy

You mean these ones?
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0718.jpg


Got any pics on what kind of steering arm you used to clear those springs?

Originally posted by SortaScout
for anyone wondering, 38-13-16 tsl on 16x8 4"backset. overall width in front is 81.25" bulge to bulge.
http://photos.imageevent.com/capaz/scout/large/scout%20v%203.1%20017.JPG

NICE!!! Good to see another 800

thanks snoopy-

also started the electrical this weekend.

http://photos.imageevent.com/capaz/scout/large/scout%20v%203.1%20010.JPG

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Snoopy
[B]
You mean these ones?
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/snoopy/800/IMG_0718.jpg

Snoopy , you gonna do any thing to correct the caster from your spring angle?

just wondering?

Originally posted by Old Scout
Got any pics on what kind of steering arm you used to clear those springs?

I can get one. They are the Bonz stuff (Identical to the RockStomper ones ~ He's the maker of the RockStomper arms.) I get them bent to clear the springs. Works REALLY well. Bonz is making me up a special set with their *custom* skull and x-bones. I'll post them as soon as I get them... Yes they'll work ~ I've done this before.

Originally posted by SortaScout
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Snoopy
[B]Snoopy , you gonna do any thing to correct the caster from your spring angle?
Yes, of course. I ground the housing round and that allows me to tip the pinion up as much as I want. Then I will turn the knuckles back until I get 6 degrees of caster.

So it'll be right where I want and I won't have to worry about caster or pinion angle.

http://www.dandcextreme.com/images/extremeimages/pro1/d6_a.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/images/extremeimages/pro1/d6_b.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/images/extremeimages/pro1/d6_g.jpg

Looking pretty good, Snoop. Just be careful of that pinion angle. Due to the angle of the leaf springs you have left the pinion out in the open for rocks! If your not running a high pinion axle, a high pinion angle is almost a must for valuable clearance on your front driveshaft and u-joint

worked all sat

worked till 2 on sun

insalled the new U bolts for the truck and swaped brakes

I'm a bit narrower than I used to be. I should have some pics scanned tomorrow, plus the whole story.

Also wrenched on my white pickup. Got the engine running, with the fuel line stuck in a can of gas. Looks like I have clogged lines, or tank switch or something. It pulls fine from a can, idled for 20 min or so, but when I hook to the tanks, with either tank selected, it dies when the bowl dries out...

Scrubbed the floor boards and wire brushed them, prepping for POR...

YEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH....

The Bitch is out of the garage!

Rebuilt the carb Friday evening and slapped it on. Then got too :beer: at "The Old Peculiar" in Ballard to continue on.

Did some final clean up work to the engine (ignition side fix's) harness and made it look pretty...cause pretty runs better:D .

Then yesterday with the wife at work fired her up with the two little boys outside and man it runs like it used to and better...amazing what the correct igition parts will do to a POINTS ignition. Messed with the Idle mix screws about 1-1/4 turn out and lowered the idle and drove it around last night.

Went to our loading dock last night and did some ramping poser shit to check for clearance's on my new tie rod and front end...:D

Such a beautiful day I drove it the .9 miles to work:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow
YEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH....

The Bitch is out of the garage!

Rebuilt the carb Friday evening and slapped it on. Then got too :beer: at "The Old Peculiar" in Ballard to continue on.

Did some final clean up work to the engine (ignition side fix's) harness and made it look pretty...cause pretty runs better:D .

Then yesterday with the wife at work fired her up with the two little boys outside and man it runs like it used to and better...amazing what the correct igition parts will do to a POINTS ignition. Messed with the Idle mix screws about 1-1/4 turn out and lowered the idle and drove it around last night.

Went to our loading dock last night and did some ramping poser shit to check for clearance's on my new tie rod and front end...:D

Such a beautiful day I drove it the .9 miles to work:flipoff2:

My brother in laws scout will be back from the shop on Wed, then he will have it bedlined, and we will do the body lift on it....

So, another couple weeks and we will be ready to take it out and beat on it. You going to be ready....?

Should be...

My wife will be working during the week at that time so My little ones will not HAVE TO come with me...not enough seats at this time.

Still need to rewire the winch harness for the hydraulic valves. Then do some other little things.

Then I will be ready to break some things!


How was Reider....who all went?

Originally posted by Harvester of Sorrow
Should be...

My wife will be working during the week at that time so My little ones will not HAVE TO come with me...not enough seats at this time.

Still need to rewire the winch harness for the hydraulic valves. Then do some other little things.

Then I will be ready to break some things!


How was Reider....who all went?

It rocked. I did a writeup and posted it at...

http://ftp.vandermeerfp.com.xohost.com/Wheeling/Trails/TA/

Scanning in pictures now.

Originally posted by slipscomb
Looking pretty good, Snoop. Just be careful of that pinion angle. Due to the angle of the leaf springs you have left the pinion out in the open for rocks! If your not running a high pinion axle, a high pinion angle is almost a must for valuable clearance on your front driveshaft and u-joint

I'm not sweating it. All will make itself known in due time.

Well, I've got the high steering clearance issue resolved.
Wheels straight ahead:
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001537.JPG

Wheels cut to the left:
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001536.JPG

Here's a pic of the tie rod to oil pan clearance (full weight is on front axle):
http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001532.JPG

Spring-over looks good Torc. High steer , full size huds, and high pinion angle. I'll bet that'll work pretty good for you when you get it finnished.

That looks like crap TORC :flipoff2:

But seriously, are those stock springs? On my 80, the springs are sitting like that without the weight of the engine resting on them. Also they are real spongy, (I know, old & worn out). I think I might have to either rebuild them, or put add a leafs. What are you running?

TWC, those are 2" Godjackers... can't wait till I roll the fawker out of the garage and fire it up for camshaft break in..... but that's still a little way down the road from now.

Originally posted by TORC
can't wait till I roll the fawker out of the garage and fire it up for camshaft break in..... but that's still a little way down the road from now.


:cool:

I know whatcha mean

Originally posted by TORC
Well, I've got the high steering clearance issue resolved.
Here's a pic of the tie rod to oil pan clearance (full weight is on front axle):


Looks pretty clean, TORC.

Also looks like, if the Skyjackers flex, you'll want to be concerned about the oil pan.

With the RS, it'll definitely want to come rearward on compression, right into the front hump of the pan.

Bumpstops'll fix that, of course.. but it looks like you cut yours off. ;-)

Yeah, it will be getting bump stops to control up travel and keep the tie rod out of the oil pan. When I started the RS, I wanted EVERYTHING out of the way so I shaved off the spring hangers, shock mounts and bump stops. Since the front axle was repositioned about 2" to 3" forward, there is a good chance that the stock bump stops wouldn't have been in the right location anyway, so I'll just fabb up some new ones. I'm planning on making them just low enough to keep the tie rod out of the pan with both sides of the front suspension compressed.

TORC, it looks like you braced your steering box...well even if you haven't im sure you could answer this for me.

All you do is get some steel, drill where the steering box bolts are going to go and just weld it to the frame, right?

With Hydro assist, i figure im going to need it more now.

Originally posted by snoop dogg
TORC, it looks like you braced your steering box...well even if you haven't im sure you could answer this for me.

All you do is get some steel, drill where the steering box bolts are going to go and just weld it to the frame, right?

With Hydro assist, i figure im going to need it more now.

With hydro assist, you probably won't need it as much. :D

But yeah.. I used a 12" long piece of 4"x.250" plate. Drilled for the steering box holes, and put against the frame.

I didn't weld mine in at the time.

12" goes from the shock mount area all the way to the core-support body mount pretty nicely.. really distributes the load.

Not long after that, I turned my draglink into a U on Holy Cross. Upgraded that with a GRT DOM draglink while at RMIHR.. cool.. a month later, I was replacing the now-bent stock tie-rod with a GRT unit, too. :D

After that, I haven't had anything let loose yet..

Yeah, I just used a piece of .25" plate, outlined the frame profile on it and trimmed it. I would have used a longer piece if I'd had it, but that is what was sitting over in the stock pile. I inquired here whether or not to weld it on or just bolt it on and got an almost overwhelming response to weld it. With the engine out at the time I just tacked it in place and then used the holes from the inside of the frame to guide the drill and drilled the holes out. Then burned it on around the full perimeter of the plate. Tom is rightk, you will need the bracing less with hydro assist.