Ive started to put my new rig together.

Goint to be 112in WB, Mog 404 axles, 302W, np435, np205.

This is where its at so far as of today. Its a chassis with the axles and tyres solidly welded to it. I did this so I can push the thing around as I work out the suspension links.

Sam

cant wait sam :D

ive been toying with the idea of throwing together a monster from parts i have as well, only problem is i need a good frame to start with, and i need a tranny/transfer and front axle :(

i have a motor, rear axle, and all the body parts for it already.

WOW, this thing is cool! :D

Okay I got some more teaser pics for you all, he is going to compete in this thing in 3 weekends time, so he has a lot of work to do, but he has been helping me with mine, which has slowed him down a lot :(

Sorry Sam.

Anyways, he should be able to tear into it now!

Another

:eek: I forgot to turn that pic over :flipoff2:

Anyways, he also made some progress on the frame, I'd post up pics of how he converted the pinion to run Range Rover drive shafts, but is there any interest?:confused:

Thickness of his lower links, and check out how flat they are!!!

This machine will run a lot of standard rover parts the link ends are similar, and so are the bushings, engine locations, steering box!

See how low it is, even with portals! UNREAL!!

Its got a range rover frame, and standard rangie coils will be installed with no lift!

Here is the picture of his links thickness!

I see you are all quiet except for 9V? Cat got your tongues?
Cmawwn, somebody has to think something of it right?

The tubes being horizontal shouldnt load up with the weight of the rig and should more slide, allowing less bending force on the links, despite that

50mm = 2" (inches)
25mm = 1"

So the links are BEEFY all the same!

42" tyres and loads of clearance!:p

In the background of the measured pic you can see the pinion conversion which sam made himself! GENIUS!

I think:

Bootiefull !!


:bounce2:
Green with envy......

POS if you ask me:D

Is it rover 3-link both front and rear?

awesome, keep it coming sam, lets see it done :D

Originally posted by jbt
Is it rover 3-link both front and rear?

Im going to use a triangulated three link in the rear and 4 parallel links plus a panhard in the front.

Sam

HEY!

Quit working on that POS truck and get those bushings done!!!!



























Looking sweet! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Serious One
HEY!

Quit working on that POS truck and get those bushings done!!!!







Looking sweet! :flipoff2:

AH - how easily I forget. Ill chase the dude up today.

Sam

RIGHT ON!!!

Keep um' coming Sam! How is the engine oil pan clearance going?

I'm seriously considering going with a Mog rear...What was the final drive ratio again? I think I would be close with a 7:17 gear set in the front?

BTW, my rig performed flawlessly in Las Cruses on just about everything. Once I limited the front drop-out with the winch, she stuck like glue....Especially after I grooved the TSL's!!! Man what a difference (thanks for use of the groover KC!) Sam you should DEFINITLEY cut your TSL's...Night and day mate!

Good work on your project...I'm loving the link geometry so far man...I'm going to make a new rear set with a bend in them...Originally I kept them straight to provide a ramping affect over obstacles, but they only helped in slowing down forward progress...Not that there was much of that! :flipoff2:

Can I be the first to say....

PICS!!!!!!!!!!!!

not to high jack your thread, but Doug how did the tires do. more traction, more flex, etc. what did you see as the ultimate benifit, aside from looking better:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Looks sweet sam, looking forward to seeing it together, Oh and Groove those tires.

Originally posted by RockRover
RIGHT ON!!!

Keep um' coming Sam! How is the engine oil pan clearance going?

I'm seriously considering going with a Mog rear...What was the final drive ratio again? I think I would be close with a 7:17 gear set in the front?

BTW, my rig performed flawlessly in Las Cruses on just about everything. Once I limited the front drop-out with the winch, she stuck like glue....Especially after I grooved the TSL's!!! Man what a difference (thanks for use of the groover KC!) Sam you should DEFINITLEY cut your TSL's...Night and day mate!

Good work on your project...I'm loving the link geometry so far man...I'm going to make a new rear set with a bend in them...Originally I kept them straight to provide a ramping affect over obstacles, but they only helped in slowing down forward progress...Not that there was much of that! :flipoff2:

Great to hear you machine went well. Would have to be a great feeling.

The oil pan clearnace is a bit of a PITA. The diffs are very tall and the pinion is only 4in off the centre line so basically the pinion is going right below the motor. Ive clearanced the sump (oil pan) as much as I could and Im just going to remove the bumpstops let the front axle come up as far as it can go, sit the motor on top of it and weld it on. Should be a snug fit. The front pully of the motor will be behind the mounting face of the third member so my engine will be about 10in further back than before.

Diff ratio is 7.54:1 (or is it 7.56 I can never remember). I thought it was too far from 7.17 to run the d60/mog rear which is what I was wanting to do initially. But anything possible.

Sam

7.54 to 7.17 is a bit of difference!

the mog is 7.54! Although a mog 9" hybrid could be made to suit a 7.17

try
JR (bronco guy)
or daniel (6x6 guy)
or that steve gerstetner

they all have things to do with the 9" portals, which use mog reduction boxes and 9" flipped centre sections (super cool)

Yea, mmmmmmm....Mog/9" hybrids....MMMMMMMMMM...But a bit too spendy right now...

The groving was awesome!!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! I'll post up a pic of the pattern....

The flex and grip of the grooving was simply amazing....4lbs of rubber per tire and 1" gain in height (someone else did the same pattern on his 42's and that was his report)....

Anyway...Still wanting to do portals...In a BIG way. Too bad there isn't a 7:52 gear ratio for a 60...

Volvos can be had in 7.14

Ron

Sam....

Pinion conversion write up PLEASE!!! Am I the only one dying to see how you converted them???

Pics pics pics!!!

Thanks!

J-L

Originally posted by HandBuilt
Sam....

Pinion conversion write up PLEASE!!! Am I the only one dying to see how you converted them???

Pics pics pics!!!

Thanks!

J-L

Really, really easy to do as long as you got the tailshaft and the torque tube. Ill take some close up pics and give a bit of an explaination.

Sam

Sam

are you using rover driveshafts that have flat flanges that bolt to a drive flange, or yoke style shafts like is likely found on your NP205? Perhaps a combo of both?

I'd be interested in knowing how to adapt those monster MOG axles to rover driveshafts.

I LOVE mog axles. There's a local unimog guy that has a spare set, I've been working on him for about a year but he won't sell. I find the design is so well engineered, everything is so well built. If only a RH drop axle case wasn't so hard to make (dual wall housing, longer splines on one shaft for locker, etc).

It's their incredible engineering that makes them so hard to use for anything else!

I await your pics salivating...

J-L

Originally posted by Daniel
I just like the tape measure!
Never seen one like that before!

JK... Very nice setup...

It is fairly standart i would assume? :flipoff2:

I dont want to steal sams thunder, BUT i have a few pics of his converison, that I can post and he can go into detail on what he did?!

He is running the flat flange style at the diff and the yoke style at the t-case.

He says it was simple to do the conversion...... :p

post em.

We all know Sam's the shit.

He's the man. He's the dude. The Habanero. The guy. The shiznit. The boss. Shall I go on?

You're not going to take away from his thunder. He's up to his armpits in argon right now. Let the man weld in peace. Help him out a bit! Save him some time!

I want those pics. :evil:

:flipoff2:

J-L

He is up to his armpits in argon too ;)

anyways

Another pics (again he will have to go through the process, as he did a lot of it while i wasnt there, and i dont have a pointy head so any math is beyond me) :flipoff2:

another

:flipoff2:

ok, ill start the fund to buy sam some new shorts:D

paypal your donations to samsnewshorts@pirate4x4.com

:flipoff2:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 9V
[B]ok, ill start the fund to buy sam some new shorts:D



my thoughts exactly, if sam gains some Lbs ill give him some of my shorts:eek:

Ribz

you guys are lucky, man he normally wears no shorts, :eek: :eek:


i lent him some of mine for the pics :flipoff2:

I think we hurt Strange's feelings. :D

- So, from the pics, I can see a few things.

- Firstly, you cut down the torque tube and use it as a bearing retainer. Is the bearing there originally or do you have to add one?

- Second, you cut the tailshaft female end off (I'm guessing) where it fits over the pinion, and then weld a plate to the end, which gets drilled for the drive flange pattern. How do you keep the splined bit from falling out? How do you keep the oil on the inside?

- Third, dude, you are the man. The stuff you build is just awesome as it's true engineering with what you've got at hand. Bravo.

After getting stuck so badly in the snow this weekend, I can't help but dream at how awesome mog axles would be..

J-L

Wow, looks really good, what unforseen problems have you run into? I have a 404 rear and am looking for a front to swap into my fullsize bronco. I too am planning on a triangulated 3-link rear, and am still unsure of front (hard to vision w/o axle). Was thinking keeping it simple and going w/ a radius arm, and possibly wristing it. I'd love to hear more on the pinion conversion, and to see some more pics/hear feedback as you go. Looking good.

Originally posted by HandBuilt
I think we hurt Strange's feelings. :D

- So, from the pics, I can see a few things.

- Firstly, you cut down the torque tube and use it as a bearing retainer. Is the bearing there originally or do you have to add one?

- Second, you cut the tailshaft female end off (I'm guessing) where it fits over the pinion, and then weld a plate to the end, which gets drilled for the drive flange pattern. How do you keep the splined bit from falling out? How do you keep the oil on the inside?

- Third, dude, you are the man. The stuff you build is just awesome as it's true engineering with what you've got at hand. Bravo.

After getting stuck so badly in the snow this weekend, I can't help but dream at how awesome mog axles would be..

J-L

Sorry for being so quiet guys been really busy.

I just cut down the torque tube, machined it a bit to mount an oil seal. The bearing preload and retainer is totally seperate to the torque tube so you can do anything you like with the torque tube. It may not have even needed a seal in the end of the torque tube because there is already a seal in the end of the housing onto the pinion shaft but i put anouther one there as well cause everybody does it that way

The tailshaft bit is correct. I just put a "grub screw" in through the side of the flanged yoke (through the side of the female spline section) and ground a notch in one of the course splines for it to sit behind and stop the pinion comming off. I was going to drill and tap a hole into the end of the pinion shaft but found the end of the shaft very hard and I couldnt drill it. So I went to plan B and did the booty fab grub screw thing. I have since learned that the trick is to cut about half an inch off the end of the pinion shaft to get rid of the hard facing and then it is easy to drill and tap. Now remember that the flanged yoke only has to not come off the end of the pinion shaft (it doesent have to preload the pinion bearing etc) so the grub screw will work OK. If it does get torn off by a rock of something then I will drill and tap the end and bolt it on. Drilling the tapping the end and using a blt is not strictly correct either as the spline is very course and the freeplay in the spline would very quickly make the end bolt loose nd it would fall out. What I would do is just do the bolt up finger tight and tack weld the head there so that it carnt rotate and fall off. IMO there is no point doing the bolt up tightcause it wont do anything except make the end of the pinion rub on the inside end of the flanged yoke.

Oil is kept on the inside by the external seal although there is still another oil seal just inside the torqus tube so this may not be necessary as I said before.

Sam

Originally posted by smoothcharlene
Wow, looks really good, what unforseen problems have you run into? I have a 404 rear and am looking for a front to swap into my fullsize bronco. I too am planning on a triangulated 3-link rear, and am still unsure of front (hard to vision w/o axle). Was thinking keeping it simple and going w/ a radius arm, and possibly wristing it. I'd love to hear more on the pinion conversion, and to see some more pics/hear feedback as you go. Looking good.

Nothing really inforseen ATM. Just hard to get such a tall dif into something that I want to run reletively low. Motor/axle clearance is the hardest part as well as front DS to gearbox/bellhousing clearance but it is working out well.

Sam

Heres a couple of more progress pics. Got all the links tacked in. triangulated three link rear and four link plus panhard rod in the front. The front has the lowers on the outside of the chassis and the uppers on the inside of the chassis. The lower attach to the diff housing in line with the bottom edge of the axle tube (didnt want to hang them down below the rear track bar so I went above it as low as I could) so that means that the uppers are very high (8.5 inches above the lowers - hope this is enough) and come up beside the motor on full bump. Everything in the front setup is very close. The rear was easy by comparison.

This first pics was when i was checking the binding in the links and got a bit carried away. Makes for a cool pic though.

Sam

Got the motor sitting where I want it. Hopefully I will have all the mounts tacked in this week. Front pully (single multirib) is about on the centre line of the front axle which is as far forward as I can get it with keeping the motor relatively low. I would guess that the crank on the 302 windsor would be only 3-4 inches higher in the chassis than the rover motor was sitting and would easily be 12in further back. I think that the body will still just fit over the motor with the body sitting at the same height above the chassis. So everything is looking good. With the axles on the bumpstops and 20psi in the 42s the centre of the chassis is 17.5 in from the groung. So if I air the tyres down to normal and give myself 4-5in of up travel I should be around the 20-21in from the ground which is about 2in heigher than it was before.

Sam

Another angle of the front

Rear triangulated three link. Can mount the upper a frame at two different heights at each end so that I can get a fair variation in anti squat. Would guess without going into numbers that I will be able to get anywhere from about 10% to 100%. ATM is on its lowest setting (rear mount low front mount high).

In these pics the frame is sitting on the bumpstops (actually no bumpstops in the rear) so will come up about 4-5in from there.

Sam

gonna b a bad ass truck when ur done, keep the pics commin...

Strange,

Please excuse my typing. i burned the shit out of my hand extending my tire chains today (don't grab red hot chains with your bare hands):flipoff2: i'm stuck typing with one hand. :rolleyes:

thanks for the info on the axles, i really appreciate it. There are a few other questions i have for you.

what's the maximum spring pad spacing on the front mog axle? lets say one was able to switch the offset to the right side, and wanted to use the axles (sprung under) on a rover. Is the front axle housing wide enough?

second, what are you doing for brakes? My friend's Mog has the stock brakes and they perform quite well. I think I'd be happy with mog drums and 20" wheels ( I can get military tires cheap, especially 20" rim stuff).

The more I go adventuring through this white snow the more I think that swapping out the rover axles for regular axles (non portal) is only a slight improvement in most any conditions. For the conditions up here I think that I might be better off saving up for a set of 404 axles. The pinion conversion isn't all that tough and the lockers are really easy to hook up. The gearing can easily be remedied on my lwb (run a brownlite aux tranny backwards to get a 50% overdrive on the rear).

Maybe this is the best alternative...

J-L

that tube you used for the trailing arms, looks like swing set equipment with the spiral markings and all.

Originally posted by Puffdragon
that tube you used for the trailing arms, looks like swing set equipment with the spiral markings and all.

He was so taken by my rear driveline on the CrewCab he couldn't be upstaged! :flipoff2:

Nice work Sam. Most of it is above my head, but it looks like it'll be something to contend with once it's done!

Originally posted by HandBuilt
Strange,

Please excuse my typing. i burned the shit out of my hand extending my tire chains today (don't grab red hot chains with your bare hands):flipoff2: i'm stuck typing with one hand. :rolleyes:

thanks for the info on the axles, i really appreciate it. There are a few other questions i have for you.

what's the maximum spring pad spacing on the front mog axle? lets say one was able to switch the offset to the right side, and wanted to use the axles (sprung under) on a rover. Is the front axle housing wide enough?

second, what are you doing for brakes? My friend's Mog has the stock brakes and they perform quite well. I think I'd be happy with mog drums and 20" wheels ( I can get military tires cheap, especially 20" rim stuff).

The more I go adventuring through this white snow the more I think that swapping out the rover axles for regular axles (non portal) is only a slight improvement in most any conditions. For the conditions up here I think that I might be better off saving up for a set of 404 axles. The pinion conversion isn't all that tough and the lockers are really easy to hook up. The gearing can easily be remedied on my lwb (run a brownlite aux tranny backwards to get a 50% overdrive on the rear).

Maybe this is the best alternative...

J-L

The stock axle would be easily wide enough as I can get my spring purches on the axle tube and the maw width is about 43in. Swapping the offset to the right side would be a big job. The housing is double skined and not symetric but guys like exact do swap them and I think that you will need a custom axle made so that the locker will still work. Would be easier with Volco C303 axles I think they almost "bolt" straight in.

For the brakes Im running my 15in steel wheels with about a 3.5in backspacing over the stock drums. I havent got the drums back from the machine shop, I had to skim the outside a bit and machine off the "dust seal" lip. It would be really easy to fit 16s or 16.5 though.

Sam

Strange, thanks...

I've talked with Exaxt about it, it's not as hard as it seems as from what he tells me. You need to reshape the housing but it's doable.

The axleshafts I'll likely cut, weld, and reharden, like my spud shaft in the tranny.

Hmmm..... :)

J-L

Hey Sam!

Good news! Look what's for sale in Auzzie!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2915934987&category=125

<grin>

OH yeah Merv, those look schweet!

Too bad Sam's not :rainbow: .

(or is he....????) (not that there's anything wrong with that...)

:flipoff2:

Oh damn, I can hear it now..."Mate, you got your arse spanked by that guy with the rainbow seats and hot pants".

Sorry Sam, but that was just too easy. ;)

My GEAWD!!!!

:barf: :barf: :barf: :barf: :barf: :barf: :barf:

I'm a whore to sponsorship...And if somebody GAVE that crap to me...Well...This is just plain crossing the line!

I dunno' though...This matching wheel look's just plain SAVAGE!

-D

You could kill two birds with one stone!

The rainbow coalition and sponsorship!




:flipoff2:

Fawk Yea - I just put in a bid. This gear is going to look awesome with my hat :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Sam

i love that picture :D

cmawwwn sam...buy my seats :D

Did a trial body fit up today. It looks fairly funny but its starting to grow on me. i had it a bit further forward than this and it looked to far forward and now I think its too far back. So I may move it forwards another inch. I got two weeks to go before the comp but i will think I will make it.

Sam

:D

Its sitting at what I hope is ride height - about 4in up travel before stock bumpstops. Havent got any springs for it yet all my 200lb/in + are too long. May have to go with the 130s for the time being.

Sam

Got ground clearance - about 18 inches under the lowest part of the pumpkin.

Sam

Its looking good Sam. I can't belive the speed you are moving with this project all my project seem to move in terms of years not weeks :eek:

Nigel

Originally posted by Strange Rover
Got ground clearance - about 18 inches under the lowest part of the pumpkin.

Sam

Wow. :eek:

that is totally badass

:vader:

Noice.

lookin sweet....it kinda reminds me of "350 Samurai"s truck....i like :D :D

Worked out where the body is going to be mounted (both height above the chassis and forwards/backwards), gearstick and transfer levers (when I make them) look good, radiator in front on motor looks good. Pulled it off again to make the rear x-member and sliders. The rest of the mounts I can fab up once the body goes back on for the last time.

Totally welded up the cross members, sliders, tailshafts done (thanks ruff), got the twin stick worked out and will do tomorrow, picking up the engine dizzy tomorrow so will get motor running, got the steering worked out and will make drag link tomorrow. Got my springs worked out (i think) going to use cut down disco progressive coils. Got my drums back from the machine shop and my 15in wheels fit over them with about a 3.5in backspace.

Havent got brake lines or brake master cylinder or power steer hoses yet and I have to get my power steer box reconditioned but hopefully it will be driving in some form by the weekend.

Sam

Rear view

NICE!!!!

Once again Sam...You da' man!

Lemme' guess....118" wheel-base?

Can't WAIT to hear how she runs man.

Now get off the freakin' computer and get back to work!

--Doug "Sam must not be married" Marbourg!

--D

Totally cool Sam. I have really liked your truck ever since I first saw it here on the PBB. It just keeps getting better and better.

Really this stage of the buildup.....I have to say, I think this is one of my favorite project trucks I have seen on the PBB: Definitely ranking up there in the top 5 or so on my list.

I wish good fortune to you in your upcoming competitions. I want to hear that you royally spanked some of those non-budget comp vehicles that I have seen pics of from comps over there.

I know that you are in a hurry with the comps coming up, but I see what you are saying about the body positioning looking funny. I think it has to do with the cutout radius of your fenders in relation to the wheelbase. I am not sure if you are going to be able to get it looking right just by repositioning the body. And Definitely do not cut all of the radius out of your fenders as they look KILLER! What about a little bit of body stretching, either in front or behind the cab?

Regards,
Sean

Well done, Sam!!!!

Looks good!!!

Doug, the WB is actually at 112 inches . Its just that the body is so short. I know what you mean about the marriage thing but it isnt as bad as you imagine. ATM im working on it during the day (almost full time during normal working hours) which means we had to hire another guy in the workshop for the busy days to do the stuff that I should to be doing. So I guess its costing a bit more money to do it this way but it will only be for four weeks total and this thing is going to be finished (sort off)

Station, I hear what you are saying about the fenders (my thoughts exactly). Im just going to run them as is for the moment and probably get some new front guards eventually and redo the trimming. The rears is a bit harder cause the start of the cut at the front (of the rear guard) is actually in the stock location but I could get a LWB tub and cut and shut it to put the cutout exactly where I want it. But Ill see how it turns out with a bit of tubework on it as well. It might end up looking OK.

Sam

Originally posted by Strange Rover
It might end up looking OK.
Sam [/B]

OR it might look like a dinky ol' series 2 Landrover sitting on top o' Mogs and 42's :flipoff2:

Quit worrying about the aesthetic implications I want to see that thing movin:D

Plus the :eek: factor was alway part of its charm - right StrangeRover? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Bodgerover


OR it might look like a dinky ol' series 2 Landrover sitting on top o' Mogs and 42's :flipoff2:

Quit worrying about the aesthetic implications I want to see that thing movin:D

Plus the :eek: factor was alway part of its charm - right StrangeRover? :flipoff2:

Yea you are right. And heres a pis of the dinky ol' series 2 Landrover that is started out as.

Sam

that thing had no idea what was coming to it!!

look at it, all innocent and baby-like :D :p

When I look at that picture I can see why you thought ...

"Its all there it just needs some mogs and big rubber":D


Probably the same style of thinking that went into that lowered Gemini in the background:flipoff2:

wow. It is amazing to watch something come together so fast without looking like cobbled turds.
impressive stuff.

SAM!

I want the bullbar! That's the sweetest fawk-you-rhino-bastard-two-ton-roadblock-on-fat-legs bar I've ever seen!

Wonder what shipping a chunk of steel across the world would cost.

J-L

This thing came to life today(sort of) but i got no pics for yas cause im slack :flipoff2:

There should be some backyard wheelin pics tommorow.
And we all know how good Sams Back yard wheelin pics are.
Remember he rolled his shiat in the backyard :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

damn your rover looks awesome.. always have been drooling at your rover.. im still hunting for a same body as yours.. but lwb one

hope it will do great at comp soon

Lookin' totally bitchin Sam. Keep up the good work. Methinks you would do well on Junkyard Wars, given a goal and a short time to get there.

Billster

Almost got it driving today (although it has moved under its own power).

Over this weekend we got the body back on, hooked up the steering, the clutch, accelerator, brakes (havent bled them yet but got all the lines in), gear stick, twin transfer levers, radiator and plumbing (no thermo fan yet), motor totally wired. Welded up the wheel centres (didnt bother removing the tyres - just went at it with 10psi in them :D ), mounted them up again with the machined drums (machined on the outside :D )

The sort of work to do all this is basically just swapping a different ,motor/gearbox/transfer as well as doing an axle swap because the way I built the body in the first place it that the body has all the wiring and brake lines and everything else on it.

Anyway heres some more pics.

Check out the engine bay - very full but I think I got it all in there and the bonnet almost closes.

Sam

And heres another pic as it stands there at the moment. Its got about 190lb/in springs in the front (they are 15mm wire with about 8 turns) and 150lb/in (14.2mm wire and about 8 turns).

It would be sitting about 4in too high ATM and needs some custom wound springs (or I could cut these - would lower it and increase the spring rate which is what I want) but for the moment Im going to run with it as it is.

At this height is got about 23.5 inches under the chassis with about 7 inches of vertical travel before contact with the stock disco bumpstops.

My biggest fear with building this with the mog axles was that it would be way too tall (caused by the height of the front diff under the motor and also because the pinion is only offset 4 inches from the centre line) but i think that I have got it beat and will easily run the height that I want - about 20 inches under the chassis and about 4 inches of vertical up travel. And all this under a body that I have mounted about 1.5 inches lower on the chassis with a motor and gearbox that is also a lot bigger. It has taken some thinking but it liiks like its going to all fit (although the front upper links will come very close (read too close) to the bottom of the radiator on full bump - but it will do for now)

Sam

AH - wrong picture.

Here it is.

The next big think that I have to get done is to get a new exhaust put in and to build myself a proper roll cage and some front bar work.

Sam

anyone else notice that the slider clearance is like what, one meter!

Incredible as always Sam.

j
:flipoff2:

Originally posted by redrangie
Incredible as always Sam.

:flipoff2:

Yeah.....what he said!

faaaaaaaaaantastic!

effin ell

eyes poppin outta ma ead

That thing looks so awesome SAM it makes me want to start building one myself........

Originally posted by Bodgerover


effin ell



Bodge!!!

I gotta figure out a way to get that onto a license plate! In Nevada I only get 7 characters. Lesse.....

FN L

EFFNELL

EFINELL

EFN ELL

Methinks Sam ought to try to get one of them on that thing.



:flipoff2:

I had never thought of that!

Could be $ here - must see if any of those variations have been taken down here...:D

Well it drives and i got some backyard pics :D

A guess adding the pic would help :D

More pics HERE (http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2931)

Oh and its been exactly one month since Sam posted this pic at the begining of this thread so i dont know what takes you guys so long to build your junk. Stop thinking about it and just build the shiat its not rocket sience :flipoff2:

Uhmmm. Somebody needs to tell Sam about that right rear spring. :p

Truely inspiring. Great work Sam. Now, can we please have some damn bushings?:flipoff2:

That left rear spring doesn't look very happy either.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/download.php?id=2959&sid=47433a6389d6fab6c4cd4f7547bc9dbe

About the springs - thats what happens when you dont clamp them in (not anywhere) and you dont have any shocks. In that last pic the front left spring fell out and the whole thing just keeled over. Thought I was a goner but we pulled it back over with the disco, put the springs back in together with a few zip ties and managed to drive the line.

Today I should have the body bolted on (its only held on with good luck and gravity and 2 G clamps at the backin the pics), tie the springs in, mounts the shocks and get the exhaust done.

Sam

Got Body Mounts :flipoff2:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

:eek: I noticed the clamps earlier today and figured you just hadn't mounted the back end yet. I know how you feel...so eager to test it out that you just rig up something temporary. And if you remember SeriousOne's sig line (I think it was his) "There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix." :cool2:

Originally posted by 97XD
:eek: I noticed the clamps earlier today and figured you just hadn't mounted the back end yet. I know how you feel...so eager to test it out that you just rig up something temporary. And if you remember SeriousOne's sig line (I think it was his) "There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix." :cool2:


like the front shaft sam fixed for me, ill bodge one up for you right now, keep wheeling the rest of the day, itll only be temporary, i looked at him and said if it lasts the rest of the day its staying :eek:

anyways, tribute to his good work, itll be competing against his machine in exactly 4 days!

excellent effort sam!

Originally posted by 97XD
And if you remember SeriousOne's sig line (I think it was his) "There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix." :cool2:

Wow, I've been quoted, and correctly too! (blush) I'm flattered.

But yeah Sam, your spring retainers are only marginally worse than the ones I didn't have on the CrewCab. I ran with a spring out of it's upper perch for so long the rear tire started to smoke. Doh!

Now I have the el-cheapo CB spring retainers, 1 inch nylon webbing tied around the spring/frame. Been on there for 3 months now, I see no reason to 'upgrade'. :flipoff2:

Bit of an update.

Got all the springs tied in finally. Got the front shocks in. Got the cable lockers working. Got the handbrake done (except it doesent work :confused: ). Got the exhause done. Got the power steer done (works really good - can palm the steering wheel lock to lock standing still on dirt and this is with a stock rover box and stock ford saganaw pump.

About the only setback I got so far it that while throttling the thing forwards and backwards on flat dirt (just oading up the drive train a bit) I popped the front drive shaft. Basically bacause its sitting baout 4in higher that I want the uni nagle at the pinion end is a bit steep and with the rubber mounts that Im using (stock rangie radius arm to chassis on one end each of the upper and lower front arms) Im getting a bit of axle wrap and it bound the uni. Im going to swap all these mounts for poly ones and die grind the front uni for a bit more clearance and just run with that.

Got about 48 hours to go before I have to load it on the trailer and still got a bit to do but I think I will get there.

Its going to be very untested and very new for the comp though. Really seems like someone elses rig to drive at the moment.

Sam

So your using the stock LR drive shaft?!! Sounds like upgrade time (to 1410's) to me my friend...They are good to 30+ deg without double cardon.

Keep the faith Sam...You'll kick some major butt!!! Cut those tires though...And NEVER air up past 4 psi.

Looking very good btw. You've got me thinking about a hybrid rear already you bastard!!

--D

I probably really do need to go to something with more angle in the front drive shaft.

I have set the front pinion to be totally horizontal when at full compression because of clearance issues with the motor. Now with the upper links shorter than the lowers, as the axle moves away from the motor the pinion actually rotates down as well which makes the DS angle even worse. Throw in a bit of movement as the diff rotates with load with the pinion being so long and Im binding the uni.

Im just going to run it with the poly and try to be carefull. I could also put a limit strap on the end of the pinion to the motor mounts as a quick fix solution (I might actually do this)

Sam

Who else thinks it's pretty cool that Sam has the longest most viewed thread in the LR section?

You're gonna kick ARSE Sam!!!

Now, where the fawk are my bushings! :flipoff2:

Yea I guess its fairly cool - what about the holey bush thread?? it had a heap of views.

And yep the bushes will happen next week!!! I guess Ive been busy. :flipoff2:

And in terms of kicking arse I will see. The comps here are only just starting to happen. We had that one late last year that I helped organise and this is the next one. This one isnt as well organised as the last and there will be a lot less rigs competing (instead of the 12 we had last time I think there will only be about 5 or so) which is a bit dissapointing but will be fun anyway.

I think my rig will be the biggest, longest , widest and fattest one there and the guy setting the courses (and running the show) has absolutely no experience with these types of rigs (he runs winch challenge comps - and he does this very well). So who knows what sort of courses he is going to set.

But it will be fun.

Sam

Originally posted by RockRover
My GEAWD!!!!

:barf: :barf: :barf: :barf:

I'm a whore to sponsorship...And if somebody GAVE that crap to me...Well...This is just plain crossing the line!

Holy :rainbow: Batman!

Can you say, seatcovers :D I hope their cheap :flipoff2:

PS: your rig buildup is looking great!

Originally posted by Strange Rover
I probably really do need to go to something with more angle in the front drive shaft.

I have set the front pinion to be totally horizontal when at full compression because of clearance issues with the motor. Now with the upper links shorter than the lowers, as the axle moves away from the motor the pinion actually rotates down as well which makes the DS angle even worse. Throw in a bit of movement as the diff rotates with load with the pinion being so long and Im binding the uni.

Im just going to run it with the poly and try to be carefull. I could also put a limit strap on the end of the pinion to the motor mounts as a quick fix solution (I might actually do this)

Sam

I have that issue in the rear....My pinion rotates down and with a offset rear t-case output, it becomes more accentuated when one side or the other drops out. However with the 1410's there is enough misalignment not to cause (significant) binding.

A limit strap in the front, IMO for the really hard-core stuff, is almost mandatory...The front is going to un-load regardless of suspension on the verts, and it's nice to pull it down with the winch when necessary (especially with coil-overs).

I'm going to put a center limit strap on the rear too...Haven't had any harry "down" experiences yet, but I will! Nice to know I won't totally unload and have to test my bonner-bar!

--D

Finally got there. Everything done and everything worked very well. This pic is from yesterday.

Sam

Axles were great. Ground clearance meant a lot on this terrain. Steering lock is incredible, as was the rear disconnect which meant I was more manouverable than the couple of very narrow and short tube buggys.

Axles seem super strong. I drove it as hard as I possibly could, naver winched and finished every stage. Was a lot of fun. Hit some cones though.

Sam

Suspension worked very well. Spring rates were good (although will probably go stiffer in the rear and I could also go stiffer in the front- ATM im at 200lb/in in the front and 150lb/in in the rear - basically the springs arnt stiff enough to support the axle at full extension so if I go stiffer I will get more stability with the same travel)

Only problems I had was that it overheated a few times (electric fan not big enough) and most of the poly bushes that I used fell apart (in using the rover radius arm to chassis mount bushes) but neither of these problems stopped me from driving.

For its very first outing (didnt even get to drive it at home) it went incredibly well. Everything about it is such an improvement on what it was before.

Really had a blast driving it but Im really glad that it is finished cause ive been working on building it at every spare moment Ive had for the last 4 weeks and Im glad that now I can just leave it on the trailer and look at it.

Sam

Fawkin' sweet man. Very nice job.:eek:

Billster

*splat*

that was the sound of me creaming in my shorts :eek:

congrats on the win and on the great rig sam :flipoff2:

AWESOME!!! hand clap....hand clap.....


And congrats on the WIN!! Why didn't you mention that you won? If you did mention it, I am about to fall asleep, and missed it. lol


Sean

Yea I actually did win. I guess I didnt mention it. It wasnt a very big competition (only 8 rigs competed) because this style of competition is only something that is something new. A lot more rigs would have entered except they wernt finished being built (and I only just made it - was still welding stuff on at 5pm the night before the competition and still had to trailer it for a 3 hour drive to get there) The next one should be really good.

I guess how well my rig went really over shadowed the win.

Heres a link to a guy who took a heap of pics.

http://www.offroadvw.net/xrcc/

And there is a couple threads on the outerlimits BB. This is the main one.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3031

Sam

Sam,

Congrats on the win! I completely understand how the win would be overshadowed by a strong performance by the truck though. I think it's cool that you didn't mention it and talked more about the truck.

We all knew you would win anyway.

Now, where the F are all of our bushings!!!! :flipoff2:

Did I forget to say congratulations! :)

This is another good pic.

Sam

I like this shot, makes it look like he's driving a stock Series 2! Just kinda cracked me up...:rolleyes:

http://www.offroadvw.net/xrcc/images/DSC00111_JPG.jpg

NICE work Sam...Congrats!

Your using the 351W right? Did you get the injection figured out? I supose so if your running it!

Soooooo...What's next?

It still amazes me how fast you can put a truck together. Congrats on the win.

-Jeff

Doug,

Its a 302 Windsor and I havent got the fuel injection on it just some small 2 barrel carb. It flooded a bit and was a bit hard to restart a few times but didnt actually let me down. Just ran out of time to set up anything better. Ive really got clearance issues with the top of the motor and the bonnet and there is no way I could have ran the stock f-truck injection. Had to run a snorkle type of the thing off the top of the carb to a remote air cleaner to make what I got ATM fit under the bonnet.

So things I still got to do is to sort the carburation out, sort the overheating probs out, remake the roll cage, do some front bar work, sort the suspension bushes out and I really want to do something with the rear axle like on the front with the winch pulling up on the front diff. I think it really worked awesome on a couple of climbs (sort of hard to tell) and definately worked great on this off camber down hill bit where it felt a bit tippy. Just winched the front axle in (it lowered it about 4 inches) and it sat there rock solid.

But for the moment its jst going to sit there and do nothing for a while.

Sam

congratulations sam.

your drive on the last stage was :eek: awe inspiring to say the least.

good work on winning, and not running Tony over.

I am more stoked that you beat the buggies ;)

Well, you cut a hole in the hood, install a Ford hood-scoop, install your injection and your done...No more stalling probs! :flipoff2:

Nice winching down the front eh? Greg has a small 3K winch on the rear of his chassis. Works the same way as the front for decents. No pics, but it's a nice little adder...Of course a short rear limit strap (for comps) would probably be adequate.

--D



Originally posted by Strange Rover
Doug,

Its a 302 Windsor and I havent got the fuel injection on it just some small 2 barrel carb. It flooded a bit and was a bit hard to restart a few times but didnt actually let me down. Just ran out of time to set up anything better. Ive really got clearance issues with the top of the motor and the bonnet and there is no way I could have ran the stock f-truck injection. Had to run a snorkle type of the thing off the top of the carb to a remote air cleaner to make what I got ATM fit under the bonnet.

So things I still got to do is to sort the carburation out, sort the overheating probs out, remake the roll cage, do some front bar work, sort the suspension bushes out and I really want to do something with the rear axle like on the front with the winch pulling up on the front diff. I think it really worked awesome on a couple of climbs (sort of hard to tell) and definately worked great on this off camber down hill bit where it felt a bit tippy. Just winched the front axle in (it lowered it about 4 inches) and it sat there rock solid.

But for the moment its jst going to sit there and do nothing for a while.

Sam