: SOA this weekend , any tips ?
mikecj5cj8 11-08-2001, 04:19 PM I'm putting together my parts list for my SOA this weekend for my 47 CJ2-A. I'm putting Wrangler superlift 1.5" rears on the front and back. I purchased Wrangler spring perch's, spring plates and spring hangers also. Anyone have any tips on what to look out for when doing this, I'm running an offset 44 rear and a open knuckle dana 30 for the front. I know the springs are quite abit longer and I will adress that when I get to that point. But, what about the spring perch angles? What did you do to get that measurement close? Again any advice would be greatly appreciated. and yes I did a search and didn't find anything that would help. Thanks
the sping perches should be welded after you have put the vehicle weight on the springs and axle and rotated the axle so that the angles on the 2 u jionts in the d shaft should be about even. you want to split the difference when you are running a non cv driveshaft. if you are going to run a cv then poibt it 2 degrees below the t case output. if you dont have this months jp they just did what your doing to a flattie and welded 2 inch tubing on the frame rails as bumpers which helped them lengthen the wheelbase and mount the longer yj springs
Jeepmangled87 11-08-2001, 04:30 PM Just put it all under the Jeep before you weld any thing point the rear up to the transfer case but dont move the front up or your caster will be all fawked up so be carefull on the front for sure also use heavy duty spring perches not stock Jeep ones.:beer:
arndog 11-08-2001, 05:03 PM depending on how the springs turn out I would do the front perches parallel to originals and bolt the rear up with nothing welded and get the weight of the vehicle on it. Purchase a 10 dollar magnetic protractor to verify your d-line angles. Set the rear pinion to be how you want it (cv or standard d-shaft) tack weld in place rip it out weld it up fully (could do it under the vehicle as well.
arndog
wild1 11-08-2001, 05:09 PM Have an extra set of seals in case you melt them with the heat of welding. That is if you are not stripping the diffs down to the bare housings.
mikecj5cj8 11-08-2001, 09:42 PM Thanks guy's, great advice!!!
CA_YJ 11-08-2001, 10:37 PM measure twice cut once...words to live by when going SOA. Not sure if anyone mentioned this but make sure that you don't worry about the pinion angle on the front axel ADJUST PROPER CASTER...wherever the pinion ends up is where is will be.
kutyafal 11-09-2001, 06:46 AM Depending on what kind of springs you use and how old I would not only let the weight of the whole jeep sit on the springs but load it up with tools and such and let it sit for a couple of days. Those springs may sag more than you think they would and you'll be sorry when the pinion goes skyward later even after all that measuring and stuff. Don't ask how I know it ... :)
orbitcat 11-09-2001, 08:53 AM Make sure all of your U-bolts will fit. I had to run all around trying to find them.
You might have to grind down one of the perches that is next to the diff in the front. Since the wrangler springs are wider, I had to shape the side a one of the perches to fit on the pumkin, so be extra careful when welding that one.
CA_YJ 11-09-2001, 10:22 AM Really good point made by kutyafal
:flipoff2:
Rock Taxi 11-09-2001, 01:10 PM Also, make sure you get the wife's minivan out of the garage BEFORE you rip the axles out from under the Jeep. I dunno, it just seems like a good idea now. Wish I had thought of it earlier.....:rolleyes:
cj2a1946 11-12-2001, 05:44 PM The short side perch may have to modified. You may have to fab an additional side, a little shorter and on the inside, to sit on the 3rd member correctly. Sometimes the perches may not sit squarly. Check, re-check, etc.
High5 11-12-2001, 06:27 PM some sort of anti-wrap setup....you WILL need it! :usa:
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