YEHAAAA~!

Double YeHaa!~

In all reality, the shifter is just two short, so we were playing with some all thread trying to get the optimum shifter height. Here is how small the blasted thing is when it was installed. yup ~ kinda hard to reach when you're strapped in by a 3" 4-point harness.

I know, I know. I'd never let this Scout leave the office with THAT steering wheel. So we picked up this one!
:eek: < MOMO!

All I can say is :rolleyes: If your gonna be starped in, why not put that shifter in a more realistic location? Like next to the seat? That long azz arm looks gay as hell, not to mention it will increase the throw required to shift.

Originally posted by Scoutillac
All I can say is :rolleyes: If your gonna be starped in, why not put that shifter in a more realistic location? Like next to the seat? That long azz arm looks gay as hell, not to mention it will increase the throw required to shift.

Ditto!!

Move the shifter up next to the drivers seat like a boat throttle.

I could just see you bending/breaking that long shifter, the first time you get tossed around in there and grad a hold of it.

My B&M is mounted far back on the trans tunnel cover. As far as I could get it without mounting it to the trans tunnel itself.

I would've gone to the tunnel, but that's where the fire extinguisher is.

I've also mounted the starter and kill switch under my seat.. reaching the dash was problematic when strapped in with the 5pts.

I sure hope that you guys didn't think we were going to put the shifter there. Besides the fact that you couldn't shift into park (dash in the way), you could barely put it in low gear (seat in the way)...We just bought $2 worth of all thread to see if we could fit an extention on it for placement, then we'd hook it up with alluminum shifter that raises the knob an inch or two (decission is the customers) so he didn't need to lean so far forward to get in out of park.

Ugly Scout came up with the closest guess ~ we were going to put the shifter on the cage, but then we couldn't remove the cage easily (customer preference) nor could we get the center console in.

Either way, we figured we'd put the whole dang stick on to see what it'd look like ~ for fun. so I thought I'd snap a picture or two and post them. Hence the title of the post.

I could send you a good pic of how mine is mounted. I have no star and am a little curious as to where it went. How long has the red star been in affect? I bought mine when it first came out and it disappeared about two months ago. Oh, well, i'll get another but if you want to see a good one let me know.

Originally posted by Brawler
I could send you a good pic of how mine is mounted. I have no star and am a little curious as to where it went. How long has the red star been in affect? I bought mine when it first came out and it disappeared about two months ago. Oh, well, i'll get another but if you want to see a good one let me know.

Please ~ I welcome info/ideas on this shifter...thats why I posted it.

Anyway ~ the red star is good for a year. After that year it goes away until you pay the $20 again. My star went away a bit ago as well. So I renewed it by re-donating to POR. SO, in other words, its time to pay up!

Snoop, what kind of T-case is that double-sticked in there? Twin-stick D-20? D-300? Or something expen$ive?

Originally posted by Sully
Snoop, what kind of T-case is that double-sticked in there? Twin-stick D-20? D-300? Or something expen$ive?

Well....something VERY expensive. That little lever between the auto and the twinstick is the Klune underdrive selector (2.7 drop) and the TwinStick belongs to the Atlas II w/ 3.8 low range.

Yes, in all, that Scout has a total reduction of 255:1 when you combine the low TF727 gears, the klune, the atlas and the w/ 4.56 gears in the axles. Oh, and its a sweetly tuned 304 w/ TBI and HEI...

Its getting picked up at the exhaust shop as I type. Custom 2.25" Duals w/ 26" glass-packs....oh yeah.

:eek:

I can't help but be jealous of people whose transfer case alone costs more than my whole rig did!

Got any more pics of that rig? How much length does the Klune add to the drivetrain?

Originally posted by Sully
:eek:
Got any more pics of that rig? How much length does the Klune add to the drivetrain?

The Klune was like 6" or was it less...hum.. Between that and the massive Atlas case, the front drive shaft measures out at 31" and the rear shaft is 30". Pretty sweet deal since the motor is in the stock location. We swapped ArtCarr's RV gearset into the TF727 and put a Jeep Tailhousing on it to get the 6-bolt round pattern. I'm attaching a couple pictures for ya'll

another

Here's what the rig looked like a week ago. We put the cage in, seats, and have driven it around a little today after the new dual exhaust was put in. I have some pictures of it outside but I can't download them on this computer. I'll take the camera home tonight and post them in the morning. The rig is a SWEET looker and actually rides real nice (shocks aren't charged yet, but soon).

It gets it's RockSliders and Rear Bumper w/ Carrier tomorrow (sat).

Tuesday it gets tow'd to RhinoLinings for 'Cat Skin Tan' interior (tailgate to under dash), over the bed lip and on the insides of the doors.

Then we charge the shocks with some Nitrogen and it'll be time for some serious TESTING!!!Woohoo!:D :D :D

Originally posted by Sully
:eek:I can't help but be jealous of people whose transfer case alone costs more than my whole rig did!

Ah common. I sell Klune's for $1575 + shipping. You have to have more in your Scout than that....

Did you all fab that dash or someone else?

Originally posted by ihbeast
Did you all fab that dash or someone else?

Yes, that would be a D and C unit. $100 normally...for POR members you'd be looking at $85 + shipping. Yes its aluminum.

:D

Originally posted by ihbeast
Did you all fab that dash or someone else?

Mke your own, 3 bucks in metal and 20.00 in hole saws.

255:1 with an auto is gay

i will laugh when he cant stop

Originally posted by 9V
255:1 with an auto is gay

i will laugh when he cant stop

How do you know? Do you have experience driving a low geared auto or are you going with what everyone else has said? There is a time and place for the gearing.

Originally posted by jdjanda


How do you know? Do you have experience driving a low geared auto or are you going with what everyone else has said? There is a time and place for the gearing.

true, maybe 120:1 with the auto. but 255:1? come on, thats what a torque converter is for- unless your engine is build to make power at 6000rpm (which no IH could be)

Originally posted by 9V
255:1 with an auto is gay

i will laugh when he cant stop


:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Originally posted by 9V


true, maybe 120:1 with the auto. but 255:1? come on, thats what a torque converter is for- unless your engine is build to make power at 6000rpm (which no IH could be)


I sense a little envy....:D

It does not take that much to be 120:1...and like you said a torque converter is for assisting such things.

Do you think that at 255:1 you will really be needing your brakes? At that ratio on flat ground you would be snoring let alone adding the slow down of an obstacle requiring that ratio...can you say sllllooooowww?

Envy:flipoff2: definitly envy:flipoff2: if not from you than at least from me:)

Originally posted by 9V
255:1 with an auto is gay

i will laugh when he cant stop
Actually happened...freak'd him out. That was when it was only 180:1 and he decided to ditch the last drivetrain [304, stock tf727, mr. Scout Creeper (2:2) and a TeraLow D20 (3.15)]. The problem was that the stock torque converter wanted to apply power at idle (you know what I mean, if you're not on the brakes - you're moving forward). Well with all that reduction the front tires would stop the truck while the rear tires would remain spinning...very very slowly ~ talk about the slowest roasty you've ever seen.

So you're right ~ in a way. That experience made him take another look at the trans ~ originally he wanted to keep it stock since it had been rebuilt <30K before he brought it in. But the non-stopping issue is what made him want us to pull it back apart. Thats when we went with a 2K stall TC and the ArtCarr RV gearset. NOW it doesn't start moving the truck untill we hit 1,100 rpm. By 1,500 we're moving pretty good. By 2,500 rpm the TC is locked and the trans scratches the tires when it hits 2nd.

So, even with the 250:1 crawl (Thats accounting for the TC) ~ It doesn't push the truck unless your physically on the gas. But when you're off the gas, your able to stop it without any problems.

I took if for a 3 mile drive a couple days ago (Fri) and even in low range I was able to drive it wihout any problems with stopping/turning ~ and that was on the street, with lights and all.

Originally posted by Sully
:eek: Got any more pics of that rig?
More pictures: (I just downloaded a couple pictures from the camera. I didn't get any outside of when we were having it tow'd to the muffler place.
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/1.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/2.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/3.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/4.jpg
Gotta love a sweet IHC being tow'd by a sweet IHC
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/5.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/6.jpg

got a closeup of the curello seats?
and what material/pattern did you orde for them?
i have a set that is black tweed/vinyl.

just curious.
pat

Originally posted by Witty
got a closeup of the curello seats?
and what material/pattern did you orde for them?
i have a set that is black tweed/vinyl.
just curious.
pat
Sure ~ XR3 w/ the XR color style Black with an outside of 'Cat Skin Tan'(I think ~ the site is down.)
If you need some of these, let me know
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/7.jpg http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/pro3/8.jpg

By the RV gear set, do you mean the 2.77:1 planetarys? So i take it that setup works farily well huh? One more thing for me to look into.

Garrett

Originally posted by Hick
By the RV gear set, do you mean the 2.77:1 planetarys? So i take it that setup works farily well huh?

Yes, those would be the ones. They work REALLY well. Besides being made out of metal (vs. Stock Alum) they also have 4 planetaries vs. the stock 3. I freakin' dig um.

Put it this way ~ We ran 4.27 gears and 35s in Pro4 (usually I'd consider than highway gears) However we also rebuilt the TF727 w/ these RV gears at the same time ~ I'll just say that it has pleanty of gear to get up and move....yet we were able to drive it to Vegas for the guy at 80 mph without any problems.

In short, I love them. They are stronger and give a NOTICEABLE difference in the gearing.