Anyone have some links (or can post) pictures of Samurais sitting on 37" tires?

Fender hacking prefered! :)

r@m

How much hacking are we talking about :D
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1271524

not 37s but 38s

godzuki do you have any pics of how the rear is cut?? do you still have the fender wells back there?? im trying to get some ideas on how to cut mine. not ready tube the whole back out yet..no rust..thanks

opened wheelwells (http://www.geocities.com/redidbull1/wheelwells.html)
here is a wrire-up me and a friend are working on. There are no captions yet but you can get an idea. The tires in the pics are 35's and there is plenty of room. 37's should work fine. Its amazing what you can do with the stock sheet metal. The wheelwells are still intact and its clean looking

Allot of you have already seen this but here it is again.

Pic1




SAR_Sammy
Mike

I can send you a series of pics from when I posted here sometime ago....



pic2




SAR_Sammy
Mike

Anyone can cut the wells out... The trick is to put them back....

And one last one to show the fender wells were put back in

pic3

SAR_Sammy

Hey, again, SAR! How are them 'Nellis treating you? Any troubles with sidewalls in 'em yet? How's the tread life? For some fawking reason, I am tiring of running 38" SXs on every rig I build.

Originally posted by SAR_Sammy
Anyone can cut the wells out... The trick is to put them back....

And one last one to show the fender wells were put back inattachment.php?s=&postid=1274624


Cool - that was the kind of cutting/proportion I was hoping to see.

Few Qs for you.

You think you could get away with having the truck sit lower/tighter to the tires without it affecting articulation much?

If you were forced to add fender flares (say because of no-trailer and "policing issues") do you have any ideas on how to go about it? Maybe you know of an aftermarket or OEM flare that could be modified to work? Not much material at the top of the fender opening to work with but...

Go ahead and shoot some images at me. I'd appreciate one image per email if if isn't too much of a bother - less than 28.8 out here at the farm. If it is a bother, go ahead and stick the images all in one email. I'll just tap my toe for a while. :)

Email is chris at moose dot ca.

Thanks!

r@m

Originally posted by Islandzuki
godzuki do you have any pics of how the rear is cut?? do you still have the fender wells back there?? im trying to get some ideas on how to cut mine. not ready tube the whole back out yet..no rust..thanks here is a few

2

well 2 was to big

depending on how much flair you needed, garden edgeing would work or some of the universal stuff from jc whitney.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1274624

Originally posted by T1H5_TA3
depending on how much flair you needed, garden edgeing would work or some of the universal stuff from jc whitney.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1274624

Good point.

Since I posted last night I've been thinking of fabbing something up like an LJ-80 fender. Should be pretty straight forward and look kinda cool.

r@m

Samiguy: I like the option of keeping the stock fenderwells...

Could you explain it on here how you went about the process? Things involved, problems you had, tips and tricks, etc...

Do you have any shots of the finished inner fenderwell?

the rear is easy, about 2 hours each side for the sheet metal work, then fiberglassing it to keep water out varies depending on how neat you want it to be. That part was a pain, it was about 10 degrees in the garage and the resin was thick! If you remove the stock metal flare mounts carefully you can reuse the stock flares. Basically what you are doing is coming strait accross from the top of the inner wheelwell. I used a cut off wheel in a circular saw but a normal one will work. Bend the lip down that joins the well to the outer skin and cut it off, this will seperate the two. Cut tabs like in the first picture, you can make them wider then I did. Bend the inner tab in, then overlap with the outer tab and pop rivet them. When they are done cover it up with fiberglass cloth and undercoat it. I undercoated the hell out of the inside too (no fiberglass there). I dont have any more pics but from the inside it looks stock, you put the side panels back in and all the work is hidden behind it. The front is pretty much the same but I moved my axle forward a few inches so I hacked a little more. With the flares on it looks good, once it gets muddy up in there it wont even be noticable that they were cut. If you got any spicific questions let me know. I type VERY slow so it was hard to get into too much detail. Its easy, clean looking, and gets rid of a rusty area if you live in the rust belt. I can stuff my 35's with inches to spare and no bumpstops, 37's should be easy.:)

http://zook94.xohost.com/my_rear.jpg

Like this?

Originally posted by ZOOK94
http://zook94.xohost.com/my_rear.jpg

Like this?

Nice Zook, you forgot to mention the auto tranny in yours (with bad converter) and the wifes special paint job! :rasta:

I stil think thats one nice Zuki :D but ya need a cage.....was that last weekend at the Mounds?

can any one post pics of a zukil that will have 37 mtr's on it as sowhen it goes to moab and it may have a vitara v6 in it by that time also

Originally posted by ZOOK94
http://zook94.xohost.com/my_rear.jpg

Like this?

What axles are you running? Looks narrow?

r@m

Ok what are your wheelbase vs. true tire height of the 37's mounted?

Rude Boggers?

SAR PJ's?