who has one, and how was it done, I know curry takes a ford 50 hub assy, turns it down so the wheel will fit over it, then redrills the assy for 5 on 5.5, then they use the ball jointed nuckles of the 50.

I want to use a king pin setup, and this is what I have in mind, using ford 60 knuckles, and ford 44 stuff from there out, the spindle will bolt to the 60, allong with the caliper bracket, there may be some interfearance with the ford caliper on the knuckle, but maybe not. from the measuring I've taken off the 60 outer shaft and the spindle junk, if the spindle bearing surface on the 60 outer was turned down to the 44 spindle bearing size, the axle would fit the spindle, there would be about a 1/16" space inbetween the end of the spindle and the start of the splines on the axle, but the hub dosen't sit that close to the spindle anyway, I may have to trim some of the spline end off the outer axle, then I put a 30 spline hub in the 44 hub.
the concern now is weakening the outer axle by turning the spindle bearing surface down, it wont be the smallest part of the axle yet, any comments?

Excellent idea I have a 60 spindle that is ruined Ill cut it in half and figure out the thickness once its machined to the size of a 44 and compare it to the thickness of a stock 44 spindle:D :D :D :D :D

The way most people do this is to use the D60 hubs and turn them down to fit through the 5 lug rims, turn the backsides down to fit the 5 lug rotors, and then redrill the flanges. Then you just have to make a caliper bracket to fit.

Your idea sounds interesting, but the main drawback I see is that when you turn down the stub shaft you will cut away most, if not all of the heat treated material in that area. That will make the shaft signifigantly weaker even though, as you pointed out, it would still not be the smallest part of the axle.

Originally posted by techguru73
Excellent idea I have a 60 spindle that is ruined Ill cut it in half and figure out the thickness once its machined to the size of a 44 and compare it to the thickness of a stock 44 spindle:D :D :D :D :D
I guess that would be fine if I were planning on using a 60 spindle, but I'm looking at using a ford 44 spindle on a ford 60 knuckle, the spindle bolt pattern is the same, I'll have to machine a collar for the lip that fits into the knuckle on the back side of the spindle, and the 60 outer axle does fit inside the 44 spindle, with the exception of the spindle bearing surface, so I can do one of two things, turn down the bearing surface, or not run a spindle bearing. if I turn down the bearing surface, I'll probably loose any hardening in that area, if I don't run a spindle bearing, it may bind in a turn. if I make a spacer that will house a 60 spindle bearing and bolt to the 60 knuckle and the 44 spindle will bolt to it, this may work, then I'm not limited to a ford spindle and break junk. but my question now is will a 30 spline 60 outer axle fit in a 30 spline 44 hub? I have a friend that sais yes, but I haven't seen it.

quit being gay and just buy new rims:rolleyes:

Brent...
if i remember correctly, you have 16in rims already....why not just run the eight lug ford 60 stuff up front and run 8 lug 16in rims? seems to me buyin a new set of rims would be alot cheaper than converting the axle to 5x5.5, not to mention im sure the eight lug stuff is a tad stouter.
and you wont have to worry about custom stuff.
just a thought.
~John

John, true, but, I don't plan on changing the rear axle anytime soon. it gives me no problems and I just put disk breaks and moser axles in the thing.

I know a guy who knows a guy that is running some sort of an adaptor/spacer inbetween his knuckle (60) and spindle (44), if I can get one of those, the only custom parts will be that spacer, and it could easily house the 60 spindle bearing and space the spindle out far enough that the 60 outer would fit through the 44 spindle and not have to cut the spline end down so the hub would fit on. since the 60 outer axle is a good inch longer than the 44 outer axle.

if I did this, I could use the spindle out junk that I allready have, with the exception of the locking hub. so to do this project, I need some 60 knuckles, and duplicates of the junk I'm running now, so I can sell my housing complete.

is there a weak link now?

Brent,

What bolt pattern is the rear and is it a semi-floating?

I ask, because it may be easier to run the 2 different bolt patterns, mount your spare on the larger 8 lug wheel, and carry a single spacer to adapt the rear to the front so that if you blow a rear, slap the adapter on, then your spare.

Only issues are: do they make such an adapter?

try:

http://adapters-store.com/

and tire rotation

Originally posted by BillaVista
Brent,

What bolt pattern is the rear and is it a semi-floating?

I ask, because it may be easier to run the 2 different bolt patterns, mount your spare on the larger 8 lug wheel, and carry a single spacer to adapt the rear to the front so that if you blow a rear, slap the adapter on, then your spare.

Only issues are: do they make such an adapter?

try:

http://adapters-store.com/

and tire rotation
good point....
spider trax also has a bunch of adapters...
~John

Dynatrac

Originally posted by 0 Brent

I know a guy who knows a guy that is running some sort of an adaptor/spacer inbetween his knuckle (60) and spindle (44), if I can get one of those, the only custom parts will be that spacer, and it could easily house the 60 spindle bearing and space the spindle out far enough that the 60 outer would fit through the 44 spindle and not have to cut the spline end down so the hub would fit on. since the 60 outer axle is a good inch longer than the 44 outer axle.



I've heard of this set-up before, never seen it though. Talked extensively with a gut in WA that makes a kit like that but wants $900 for it!! What he does is make a spacer, bore out a Big bearing D44 spindle till the bearing fits, adapts D60 hub internals into a D44 lock-out. Not sure if thats the right way to do it but thats what he told me!

Ant

Brent,
I converted a sixty over to 5 on 5.5 this fall. I used a mix of dana 60 parts and dana 44 parts to get it done.
all parts are Ford 1979 Dana 60, Ford half ton, or chevy half ton.

Heres the parts list:
Dana 60 spindle

Dana 60 hub machined down and redrilled to 5 on 5.5

Dana 44 rotor (f-150/bronco) center bore machined out to fit on the dana 60 hub

Machined brake caliper bracket out of 1/2 steel. Basically flat but machined to allow 1/4" clearance for brake pads. Incorporated dana 60 spindle pattern and chevy brake calipers.

Howe twin piston chevy calipers. These were needed for clearance at piston and knuckle. Knuckle needed slight grinding to allow free caliper clearance. But they work awesome so worth the extra jing.

F-150 wheel studs

Getting the hub and brakes machined and redrilled was cheap. Around $150. The brakes cost substanially more. I hate to say what I paid for the brake bracket. But if you have a buddy who is a machinist you could probable replicate for alot less. the Howe Calipers were around $220 for the set. Well worth the extra over standard calipers in my opinion.

Later

thanks mike, I do have some guys down the hall in the machine shop that could do me a favor or 5 :D do the howe calipers have a bigger displacement, or are they a direct replacement for the stock gm junk? (is it going to mess up my break proportuning that I have now, I'm now running the gm junk?)

Great parts list Mike. I did the same conversion to 5 lug on my Hybrid 609 front.

Some pics:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=601558&a=9410876&f=0&sp=1&showall=true

60 hub, redrilled. 1 hole is almost 1/2 way into one of the old 8 lug locations. I tack welded the stud to keep it straight. OD turned down, back side matched to F150 rotors.

I had a local metal shop flame cut the caliper brackets from 3/8" plate (7/16 would be better). I had a tracing of Dynatracs bracket. Transfered the spindel bolt pattern.

I used GM / FSJ 2 bolt calipers. A little grinding on the knuckle, and slid them out 1/8" or so for more knuckle clearance. No problem with 15" wheels.

Took a lot of figuring and measuring, but came out great and pretty cheap. I have a good connection for machine work, but really nothing too sophisticated.

BTW, Sunray will do this conversion with your parts. $800 :eek:

Rick

Brent,
The Howe uses two smaller diameter pistons. But equats out to more braking force than the larger single piston. I had the information somewhere but I can't seem to find it. They are a bolt on replacement for the GM style caliper. Although you may need to remove some material from your bracket to allow room for the twin pistons. Took me a couple of minutes with a grinder to clearance the bracket.

As far as proportioning for me it has worked with no changes. I run the standard single piston calipers in the rear and the twin piston's calipers up front. So the increased clamping of the front seems to have worked out to balance the system.

Rick,

Yeah after I got the twin piston done I could have moved the caliper out and retained the single piston. But my braking was improved so I was happy with it. Cost more and if you are on a budget I would go the route you did.

Later

you guys think that this woud work with a 5 on 6.5" BP too? and rick, where in MA are you? im in southborough. let me know if you ever want to go wheelin.

don't see why not, you just redrill the hub to 6 on 5.5, and use a chevy rotor. also the hole in the center of the chevy rotor is bigger, may not need to be turned down, or not as much.

Only problem I can see with six bolt pattern is you may hit more than one of the existing eight bolt holes. But like Brent said just use a chevy rotor instead.

Should work the same on 6 bolt. Heard of a few people doing it. You do really mean 6 on 5.5 right?

Cadillac man, I am in Lakeville. I ride with New England 4 wheelers. Here is a local NON-hardocre board:

http://pub59.ezboard.com/bnewenglandwheelers

Also, I PM'd you on dana 60's I saw you inquiring on. I think they are all sold now...

Rick

no, i mean 5 on 6.5 :D land rover bolt pattern. yeah, its weird, but the goal for my truck is to keep it as stock looking as possible externally but have bad ass parts underneath (sleeper kinda thing). thanks for the link, rick.

ok, found out the junk they are using to do this, a chevy 60 knuckle, a 60 outer shaft, a chevy 44 spindle, a 1/2" thick spacer/adaptor to bolt to the 60 knuckle and bolt the spindle to, then you use a 44 hub, rotor, backing plate, and caliper, the hub can be bought from warn, its the one they are using in their rear full float conversions, same 30 spline as the 60 shaft, and fitts in the 44 hub, they are running no spindle bearings, you do end up trimming a little off the spline end of the outer shaft, cause its to long, but it all goes together, and the only thing the people running it have broken is a hub, I'm ok with the hub being the week link.... so now its a parts scavanging game, and is it worth the $ to swap out the 44 for a 60 in my xj?

Brent,
My article on doing this is up on bc4x4.com now heres the link:
http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2001/hpd60front

This thread ROCKS :D:D:D

I may consider something like this for mine, that way I can keep my 6 lug MRT beadlocked wheels :D:D:D

Originally posted by Brent Orton
ok, found out the junk they are using to do this, a chevy 60 knuckle, a 60 outer shaft, a chevy 44 spindle, a 1/2" thick spacer/adaptor to bolt to the 60 knuckle and bolt the spindle to, then you use a 44 hub, rotor, backing plate, and caliper, the hub can be bought from warn, its the one they are using in their rear full float conversions, same 30 spline as the 60 shaft, and fitts in the 44 hub, they are running no spindle bearings, you do end up trimming a little off the spline end of the outer shaft, cause its to long, but it all goes together, and the only thing the people running it have broken is a hub, I'm ok with the hub being the week link.... so now its a parts scavanging game, and is it worth the $ to swap out the 44 for a 60 in my xj?

screw that i broke more hubs on my old dana44 than i did 297's!!! you can modify the 60 hubs to be 6 lug. turn them down on a lath so the wheel will fir over it, weld plugs into the existing 8 holes, and then redrill the 6 lug pattern into the hub. you then use 1/2ton brakes. the caliper mounting braket has to be modified but it can be done. this is how sunray does it anyway. leader did his own 5on5 1/2 this way too. me personally i stayed 8 lug.

btt - good info here :cool2:

So assume you turn down the 60 front to fit 5 or 6 lug... what are you gonna do for the rear? USe some kind of semi float or what?

right now I've got a scout 44 in the rear, the thing has been there for 4 years and no problems yet, its got moser shafts, and there is no sighn of wear. when it becomes an issue, I'll probably do a semi float 60 with a ford motorsport disk break kit and a20 bearings,

I do have a friend at six states that was taking a full float 61, turning down the hub part some, welding up the 8 lug holes and redrilling it for 5 on 5.5. he also had to open up the inside hole of the wheel a little, just to keep some meat arround the axle bolts. then he was coming up with some way of mounting a disk and caliper bracket, but he hasn't finished the project yet.

A 14-bolt full float rear hub lends itself to a better 5-6 lug conversion since the OD of the 14b hub is smaller than the
comparable 60 FF hub.

Originally posted by SHERPA RIG
A 14-bolt full float rear hub lends itself to a better 5-6 lug conversion since the OD of the 14b hub is smaller than the
comparable 60 FF hub.
true, we are planning on throwing one under a rolled xj for a beater, cause we have a 14 bolt and a detroit for it, week link will be the 44 front we also have and also are tossin in the front.

There is a sweet one on ebay right now. Priced at $1500. Looks to be worth much more. High pinion, 5.13, locker. :smokin:

--Steve