I am in the prosess of rebuilding my toy diffs to install them in the suzuki.

What I need to know is:

Is there a online web site where I can look at buying some perches? Or do I have to make them myself?I want to clear 35 with some fender triming so how high should the perch be?

When I weld the perches on what should I set my front caster angle at? (Pinion angle)Same as the suzuki?

What should the rear be set at?same as the suzuki?

As for d-shafts......will an 83 front toy shaft (with the cv) fit in the rear with the right flanges. I do know about having to machine one of the flanges.

What is the best solution for steering? I have look at ott and all pro............Is there anything else?


Any other info on this that I am missing? If so I am all ears(or eyes)

Thanks

I built a cross over steering combining toy and sami. I also used trailer perches from the local trailer parts store My rear was a cv dshaft from an 83 I cant remeber what I had to do to it to make it work and I dont have the sami any more. CHUCK

<font color="yellow">On thing to watch out for: On the passenger side of the front axle, the perch is partially on the third member!

Just so you know, toyota's had different height spring perches on the front axle from the factory - the right is higher than the left, and the factory springs compensated for this difference.

Most Toy guys simply weld a flat spacer plate onto the driver's perch to level them out for aftermarket springs... I just thought you should be aware of this potential problem before you started building new perches.</font>

Just run the front the way it is, ya the 83' will work . As for the rear just point the pinion at the t-case flange. I run the All-Pro Hy-steer and it's nice.:)

Generous use of a grinder made my perch fit as wellas a little cutting on the perch itsself...CHUCK
it seemed to work fine

Thanks for the replies.

What do you guys think of perches like this. Make the perches a little wider then the spring, so you can use a flat plate on top. Use grade 8 bolts to hold everything in place. I guess it is just getting rid of the u-bolts. So your welds on your perches is what is holding your axle to the spring.(did I say this right)


Hey fatkid do you have any driveline vibes? The diff not being in the right offset. Did you move your t-case over at all?


Thanks

I didn't do anything to my front end but redrill the spring perches farther forward. As for buy spring perches I think I used "Confer", bought them at a local shop. I also did the U-bolt flip, the Toy u-bolt stuff was :rainbow:

:p

Originally posted by zooki guy
Thanks for the replies.

What do you guys think of perches like this. Make the perches a little wider then the spring, so you can use a flat plate on top. Use grade 8 bolts to hold everything in place. I guess it is just getting rid of the u-bolts. So your welds on your perches is what is holding your axle to the spring.(did I say this right)


Hey fatkid do you have any driveline vibes? The diff not being in the right offset. Did you move your t-case over at all?


Thanks

the CV rear takes care of the compound angle, works well and the t-case is in it stock location...:)

bob:flipoff2:

Originally posted by zooki guy
What do you guys think of perches like this: Make the perches a little wider then the spring, so you can use a flat plate on top. Use grade 8 bolts to hold everything in place. I guess it is just getting rid of the u-bolts. So your welds on your perches is what is holding your axle to the spring.(did I say this right?)
<font color="yellow">Yeah, you did. That's exactly what we did to <a href="http://www.4wheelpartsmemphis.com/images/kevincamo.jpg">this</a> Suzuki's D44's when he went to 37" Boggers. (You boys must be sick of this by now - that's like the 3rd time I've posted this stupid picture)

Unfortunately, he hasn't wheeled it yet, so I can't tell you how it will hold up... but it makes me nervous. No longer is the perch simply clamped between the axle and spring by U-bolts. It's now being twisted off of the axle housing every time you gas it. If I were you, I wouldn't even think about going thinner than 3/8" steel, and I'd gusset the hell out of this setup.

But why do it at all? If you can't fabricate a U-bolt flip, you can buy one from All-Pro... If you have the threads pointed UP, then the U-bolts don't take up more than ~1/2" of clearance under the axletube, and that curved, round shape isn't going to hang up on anything. And it's MUCH stronger than what you're describing... just think about the side loads during cornering and hard wheeling, and the torque load they would be taking against the spring during acceleration. :eek:</font>

All pro makes a perch kit for the front and rear?

On the front:

The perches are closer together on the sammy so do you have to modify it so it would work? How much lift will the all-pros give me over all? I want to be able to run 35 with minor fender triming. I am also going to go with 40" springs in the front so it will move the axle forward about an inch or so.


Fatkid- so the 83 d-shaft is a straight bolt up?

<font color="yellow">Yup, AllPro makes a front or rear U-bolt flip for the Yota. <a href="http://www.allprooffroad.com/flip.html">CLICK ME, BYATCH</a>!

Anyway... I'm not sure how it would work after you move all of the shitzu for the perches around to throw them under a Sammy. Looking at the pic Tonka_Sam posted, it doesn't look like it would be that hard to build one with two piece of 1/4" plate and a pair of the right size round-bottomed U-bolts - but this isn't coming from someone whose run this setup - so take it for what it;s worth.. which isn't much.</font>

i did my perches with .5" steel plates sandwiched together with grade 8 bolts. no more ubolts. it's plenty beefy.

Poppy,hows the big block ,did it get rained on?:D

Do the flip kit, I think it works.

I hope so its supposta be on the porch now:D

Listen to Bob he's a wheeler...:flipoff2:

:skull: :skull: ..............:D

Whats the story with your rig Bob? Are ya building it? Is it "done", in the process of installing some High Pinion 60's front and rear? What gives?:)

gathering parts,toy axels 5.29 detroits,toy trans w/dual cases,1.616v,35 mtrs,,bla,bla,ect. ,,,,,:D

I've heard that the Toy sh*t gets it, should be as bad as P-Cocks. His fully get's it...:flipoff2:

grade 8 bolts are stong but they shear recomend if your going to
do that you us grade5 they'll at least bend just my thinkin
I'd rather limp home than have to leave it on the trail broken:smokin: :smokin: ;)

I'v heard that befor but then i think I also heard it takes alot more force to snap it.........maybe Tin Bender could comment........please........:D

I'm thinking of doing the same swap. I will be using a CV type drive shaft, pointing the rear into the t-case then? I'm worried about the compound angle of the shaft through the suspension cycle.

Use grade 5 for driveshaft bolts (ever noticed how soft the factory bolts are?) Lots of shear force here.

You want maximum clamp force on the trick spring perches = grade 8. Not much shear stress on leaf springs;)