I'm looking at using some studs for an adapter. How much thick of material should I use?

Would 1/2 inch thick steel drilled and tapped for the studs be too little? How about 1/4 inch?

what kind of studs? what size? what tpi? are you threading the material? You should be at least as thick as the nut you would use on that size stud, thicker on soft material.

I'm replacing the brake booster/master cylinder on my Cruiser with something that is not a direct bolt on replacement(going to a non-power setup:p). So, to do this, I need to make a simple square adapter to go from the stock 4 studs to a 2 studs.

I believe the studs will be 3/8" or 8mm.... still checking it out. I think the studs on the brake booster I'm replacing are 8mm but they could also be 6mm or 10mm.

Not sure on thread pitch.... I think LC standard for 8mm is 1.25 which is what I will probably end up using. I don't have to keep it metric but given that 90% of the bolts on my Cruiser are metric, might as well keep the confusion down:D

The studs will be grade 8 equivelent since we are talking the braking system of my Cruiser:p

The plate will be threaded for the studs.

I'm basically looking at an adapter that will go through a firewall and my arms won't reach that far around:emb: I've heard to many stories of bolts loosening up while giving no clear indication so I am willing to spend $2 a stud vs $0.20 for bolts.

I don't believe I am limited on the thickness of the adapter but I would rather keep it under an inch.

BTW, nothing wrong with my brake system as it stands... but after having lost brakes due to an engine stall and a near roll, I'm opting to get rid of the power system of the brakes similar to what Lance did:cool:

John,
I was planning on doing something similar on my '65 J40. What I am planning to do is use .75" Al plate, drill the 3 holes to match the fire wall and two to match the new master cyl. I am going to tap the holes for the master cyl and mill out a pockets for the bolt heads so that it will all sit flush to the fire wall. I was planning to use aluminum for this because I have it available does this sound like a bad idea? What master cyl are you planning to use? Is it for front and rear disks or are you runnig drums in the back?

Originally posted by Blue Boar
John,
I was planning on doing something similar on my '65 J40. What I am planning to do is use .75" Al plate, drill the 3 holes to match the fire wall and two to match the new master cyl. I am going to tap the holes for the master cyl and mill out a pockets for the bolt heads so that it will all sit flush to the fire wall. I was planning to use aluminum for this because I have it available does this sound like a bad idea? What master cyl are you planning to use? Is it for front and rear disks or are you runnig drums in the back?

I'm not sure if AL is bad or not... I've always thought of it as a little soft but I think the issue that would be more prevailant is the electrolysis between the steel and aluminum:(

I've had 4 wheel disk for a while and used a few different Toyota masters(stock LC, 81 minitruck, and a mid 80's supra). I'm going to use a 68 Ford F250 master(Napa part # 10-1386).. Lance claims this is what he is using and has been fairly happy with the results.