View Full Version : 10.25 vs. Dana 70
Marksman
03-09-2003, 08:19 PM
Found a F-350 with a D60 front I can use. I will swap in the rear axle also to simplify. Keeps the same axle ratio, bolt pattern etc...
Thanks everyone for help with my questions on the front.
Was doing some reading and linking from this site today, and found out that the rear which I thought was a D70 is probably/actually a 10.25"
I don't know anything about this axle. How does it compare to the D70.
According to the information I have been given it might have a Detroit in it.(Yay!)
Do I want to use this axle or continue my search for a D60 or 14 Bolt?
Thanks,
Mike
Use it!!!!
It will have 35 spline shafts and is very stout.
Eric
Rockcrawler_101
03-09-2003, 08:55 PM
yeah its hella strong the only problem ive heard about them is that the bolts that hold the ring on can rattle loose but the way to fix this is get some bolts off a dana 70 which i gess fixes the problem. Get it i love the way those axles look they not all stupid like the 14 bolt which hang down ten feet they are wider to get there stength.
emsoffroad
03-09-2003, 09:06 PM
The carrier bearings are also alot bigger.
The only thing is that the locker selections are still limited..
saf-t scissors
03-10-2003, 08:53 AM
"still limited"??
Yeah, it sucks you still can't get a EZ-Locker for it, huh?
Have to settle for a Detroit or ARB or Eaton posi or PowerTrax No-Slip or Lock-Rite or....
Couple of things to watch for: earlier (pre-92ish) axles had problems with hub grease seals. There's a two part seal used on the later axles that *I believe* swaps into the earlier ones as well. They're about $40 from Ford, and those are the only ones that seem to last.
They like to eat pinion bearings. My axle is on its second set. I've heard stories of guys towing with these that are replacing diff bearings every 40K or so. The 10.50 design was basically a pinion bearing redesign that was supposed to clear up that problem.
All in all, they're pretty beefy. Definitely comparable to D70/14B stuff.
Ultim8kaos
03-10-2003, 04:16 PM
1.5" axle shafts
35 splines
Plenty of locker choices as pointed out by sclemons
and gears to 5.38's now I believe.
emsoffroad
03-10-2003, 05:37 PM
Originally posted by sclemons
[B
Couple of things to watch for: earlier (pre-92ish) axles had problems with hub grease seals. There's a two part seal used on the later axles that *I believe* swaps into the earlier ones as well. They're about $40 from Ford, and those are the only ones that seem to last.
They like to eat pinion bearings. My axle is on its second set. I've heard stories of guys towing with these that are replacing diff bearings every 40K or so. The 10.50 design was basically a pinion bearing redesign that was supposed to clear up that problem.
All in all, they're pretty beefy. Definitely comparable to D70/14B stuff. [/B]
The rear "oil bath" seal has been upgraded. I could not get the two piece one anywhere. The only one that I was able to get was a one piece seal. It is the same seal used by big trucks on the front hubs. I paid $18 for mine.
Never heard of the pinion bearing problem. I have 250,000 on mine, no problem. I also have seen quite a few that had more miles. The only thing that I see is that the chrush sleeve gets loose. So maybe the people that are having the pinion problems are not checking the pinion.
saf-t scissors
03-11-2003, 12:18 PM
Yeah, the crush sleeve is definitely part of the problem. I imagine most of them are losing preload and that's helping to eat the bearings. Similar probs with the 8.8, actually.
Mine had some chen shit bearings in it from the factory, tho... and they were shot. I hope the Timkens will last much longer.
PLUSH Fab
03-11-2003, 12:36 PM
I did the exact same thing on my rig and bought the axles from a 95 F-350 with the sterling in the back.
5.38s are the highest you can go now, but it seems the popularity of building SuperDuty rigs has helped the 10.25 with gears and locker selections.
Here's some pics of them under my rig...Same as you 60 and 10.25
http://www.plushfab.com/images/MVC-022F.JPG
http://www.plushfab.com/images/MVC-019F.JPG
MVM
66CJdean
03-11-2003, 09:29 PM
I have heard about them burning up like stated and from what I hear it is due to the small amout of fluid they hold. If you turn it up at all then relocate the fill plug higher and this could be a good idea no mater.
Nice work on the Nissan! I will never look at them the same.
PLUSH Fab
03-12-2003, 09:07 AM
Originally posted by Lincolnloc
Nice work on the Nissan! I will never look at them the same.
Thanks Man...built Nissans are coming...
MVM
John Deere Ranger
03-12-2003, 12:36 PM
Originally posted by sclemons
Yeah, the crush sleeve is definitely part of the problem.
You can get a crush sleeve eliminator for under $20 just get a ford 9" Solid pinion Bearing spacer and round the edge that sits toward the pinion (there is a round lip on the pinion) Then there is nothing to worry about. The sterling has the same inner wheel bearing as a Duce-and-a-half. They are HUGE. The sterling is a VERY stout axle and I just got done putting a Detroit and 4.88's in one. Kinda pricey but i think well worth it. More clearance than a 60 with more of a trused axle housing, thicker tubes, stronger cut splines.......
(Note: Steve @ Differential Engineering (http://www.differentialeng.com/) tipped me off to some of this info
jaluhn
03-16-2003, 07:59 PM
As far as I know, the d70 is slightly stronger, but not my much. The 10.25's nose is anbout 2" longer, so the driveline will be a bit different. The 10.25 also uses external drums, where you can pull the drums and service tha brakes without pulling the hub. On the dana, you have to pull the hub and bearings. Not really a bas thing, just more work. The 10.25 also uses a racheting wheel bearing nut, and requires a special tool to remove and install. However, both are very tough units.
~John
saf-t scissors
03-17-2003, 06:26 AM
Originally posted by jaluhn
The 10.25 also uses a racheting wheel bearing nut, and requires a special tool to remove and install.
~John
Isn't the 10.25 spanner the same as the Dana 70? Or was it the 80...?
I know for a fact that there was a Dana axle listed on the applications chart, tho....
jaluhn
03-17-2003, 10:53 AM
Originally posted by sclemons
Isn't the 10.25 spanner the same as the Dana 70? Or was it the 80...?
I know for a fact that there was a Dana axle listed on the applications chart, tho....
Well, my dana 70 uses a 2 5/8" nut, and the 10.25 I've seen uses a 4 point tool, mush like the front axle nuts. Both are the same threads, though. 2"-16. I don't know about the d80, or if the d70 changes between years, but this is just my experience.
~John
emsoffroad
03-17-2003, 11:01 AM
Originally posted by sclemons
Isn't the 10.25 spanner the same as the Dana 70? Or was it the 80...?
I know for a fact that there was a Dana axle listed on the applications chart, tho....
Same as D80, 4 prong.
i would definetly run whith the 10.25. It is debateable that it is stronger than the 70 but its always cool to keep a ford all ford;)
John Deere Ranger
03-18-2003, 08:09 AM
Originally posted by jaluhn
As far as I know, the d70 is slightly stronger, but not my much.
So what is stronger about the 70?
PLUSH Fab
03-18-2003, 10:21 AM
Originally posted by jaluhn
As far as I know, the d70 is slightly stronger, but not my much. The 10.25's nose is anbout 2" longer, so the driveline will be a bit different. The 10.25 also uses external drums, where you can pull the drums and service tha brakes without pulling the hub. On the dana, you have to pull the hub and bearings. Not really a bas thing, just more work. The 10.25 also uses a racheting wheel bearing nut, and requires a special tool to remove and install. However, both are very tough units.
~John
Do you happen to know how to get ahold of that tool? I broke a stud and need to get the hub off my 10.25
Thanks,
MVM
Originally posted by PLUSH Fab
Do you happen to know how to get ahold of that tool? I broke a stud and need to get the hub off my 10.25
Thanks,
MVM
Um, drive your local Checker/CSK/Partsamerica
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/33/139/DCP_0274.JPG
and don't forget driver's side is reverse thread
PLUSH Fab
03-18-2003, 11:29 AM
Originally posted by D60
Um, drive your local Checker/CSK/Partsamerica
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/33/139/DCP_0274.JPG
and don't forget driver's side is reverse thread
Cool, I've driven around town with the Chilton's at the local stuff...even NAPA and crapped out.
Thanks for that pic, gonna help alot and much better than the fawkin' drawing in the book..:eek: :cool:
MVM
http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/users/33/139/DCP_0276.JPG
jaluhn
03-18-2003, 04:14 PM
Originally posted by John Deere Ranger
So what is stronger about the 70?
The ring gear is .25" bigger, (10.5" vs 10.25") and I think the axle shafts are slightly thicker. The d70 is rated at 7400#, while the 10.25 is 6800, I think. Both are roufly equal, and very heavy duty. Don't try picking them up. (I learned the hard way. :) :) )
~John
TheRob
03-18-2003, 09:59 PM
i have a 10.25" out of a 87' F-250. it is just the casing and third member. it has 4.10 gears, and is posi. if anybody is interested, make me an offer.
later,
rob
Marksman
03-28-2003, 10:35 PM
Just wanted to let everyone know I am a moron.
I let my parts truck get purchased by a single mom, who is a mechanic somewhere. Apparently she bought it to put the axles under an early 1/2 ton Ford........duh.
We were re-financing the house and I put off taking money out of savings until that was finalized. The mom beat me by a day.
I was seriously bummed for a day or so. Where else am I going to find a one ton drivetrain with 4.10's and a rear Detroit for $1500!!:emb4: :mad:
Mike
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