The CTM u-joint has needle zirk fittings on all four caps. I was thinking it'd make axle removal alot quicker to put four notches in the knuckle to facilitate axle removal without removing the zirk fittings first. I don't want to make stress points that could cause the knuckles to fracture though.

What do you think about this idea?

they make zirks that are virtually flat if you got some of those the axles should come right out, i know they do on mine

I would do anything BUT notch the knuckle.:)

i just did my ctm`s. and it took about 3 extra minutes to take out the zirts and reinstall them once the axle was in. quit bein lazy:flipoff2:

Kacrawler, these zirks are the virtually flat ones.

2stroke, yeah, yeah.:flipoff2:
I know it's not a big deal. I was just curious if this time-saver was doable or too dangerous to the knuckle.

If you've got bigger than 35" tires, and drive like a nut, I probably wouldn't do it. Otherwise it would probably never be a problem or create catastrophic stress on the knuckle.

Personally, I say just don't be fawkin lazy. :p It's not like you have to take the axles out anymore anyway - you aren't going to be breaking ujoints anymore, remember? ;)

But you might wear them out.

Originally posted by Lance
If you've got bigger than 35" tires, and drive like a nut, I probably wouldn't do it. Otherwise it would probably never be a problem or create catastrophic stress on the knuckle.

Personally, I say just don't be fawkin lazy. :p It's not like you have to take the axles out anymore anyway - you aren't going to be breaking ujoints anymore, remember? ;)
Yeah, I have small hole chevy kunckles too, just remove the damn zerk and then install or remove the axle.

Are you breaking them enought to even bother?

Nope, just looking to shave time on a piddly-ass task. Thanks for the inputs guys. :beer:

Sounds like someone is prepping for the suggested "pit stop" type events for TTC, sure would make shaft changes easier.

Keep in mind, if you're pulling that shaft in the field, the CTM has most likely left the vehicle entirely, and the mangled bloody stumps that were formerly your precious cro-mo shafts will probably have to be torched or beaten into a shape conforming to the knuckle anyway, so notching for zerk clearence doesn't really help much.

I guess you could put allen head set screws in instead of the zerks, which process do you want to speed up or slow down? Greasing or removing?

LOL! Not me, just working too many hours these days and carrying the search for precious minutes into my hobby I guess.

Plus, those little zirk buggers tend to stick to my fingers then go flipping off somewhere; not an issue while in the driveway (unless you live in Elk Grove! :( ), but could turn into a pain in the ass on the trail.

Carrier problems can result in having to remove the shafts too, in which case the axle stubs won't be damaged. I'm already talked out of doing this mod, no sense whipping a dead horse.:flipoff2:

I pulled my shafts out the other day and when putting the grease zerks back in, one of the caps rotated. I was just snugging up the zerk too, not turning hard. I heard that the caps shouldn't turn. What does this mean?

Originally posted by watson
I pulled my shafts out the other day and when putting the grease zerks back in, one of the caps rotated. I was just snugging up the zerk too, not turning hard. I heard that the caps shouldn't turn. What does this mean?

One of your shafts is wore, if it's not egged out too much you can peen the inside of the axle yoke to hold the cap a little better, or go with the butch method and tack weld the caps to the ears.

I suppose if being able to quickly pull your shafts is that big of a concern for you, you could swap your knuckles for ford pieces, and run Ford brakes, the Ford Dana 44 knuckle runs a much larger hole.

I just bought this axle with warn shafts and CTMs. The guy told me that the shafts and joints were brand new, he hadn't even locked the hubs in since he installed them. They sure look clean. Would Warn's warranty cover this shaft? I've heard they are hard to deal with on their warranties.

You guys really think that making (4) 1/16" is going to degrade strength that much? I'm sure my knuckles have lost more than that in surface rust.

Bryan

Originally posted by Oxjockey
You guys really think that making (4) 1/16" is going to degrade strength that much? I'm sure my knuckles have lost more than that in surface rust.

Bryan

I was just going to mention boring them out that little bit needed but then realized DOH, they need to be that size so that the spindle self aligns itself:jester:

Another thing to think about: To start with, if you can easily turn the cap in the axle, the axle needs to be replaced. I always mark my ears and caps with liquid paper pens (best metal marker you can get!) and pull things when they start moving. The full-circle clips should hold them in, but get them out ASAP. What I was going to say though, is that you would be more likely to break a hub than a CTM or Warn axle (Lance's review nonwithstanding), I think. I don't like the hub fuses, but you might trry them and see if they will hold up for one comp at a time or something. Quick change, anyway.

-Bart