I don't know a whole lot about either, but i figure cost of each is relativly similar. I just want to start planing what type of steering i am going to do for my project rig, so i can design some things, and start accumulating parts.

What happens when your motor doesn't run, can you steer with either of them?
Is hydro asist possible to drive on the street at all? (this is a trailered rig but i still want to know)
What are relitive costs?(i don't want to know AGR prices, i am talking about backyard built stuff)

Pro and cons of each. And any other coments you have on your experiences with each of them.

Thanks
Ian-

Hydro assist is street legal, full hydro is not. With full hydro you should be able to steer when the vehicle is off if you get the right orbital vavle (not the correct term - but you know what it is). Where as hydro assist works off of your steering box and is harder to turn when the motor is off. Full hydro gives you zero feed back and minimal return to center.

thanks for the comments, I know about all of the road handling affects of full hydro.
So which is better if your motor is not running?

Ian

Manual Steering :flipoff2:

I have hydro assist. The big difference between the two is hydro assist you still have to keep your drag link. This is a good thing. If you have a hydraulic failure you will still have manual steering. With full hydraulic and a hydraulic failure you have nothing. DON"T go full hydro if you drive it on road. Besides all the legal and safety problems, many people have told me that thier full hydro system is tough to steer straight at higher speeds.:)

Assist dives fine if you have a good pump that puts out enough GPM. A home built assist system should run you less tha $150 in pasts.

I would like to learn how a full hydraulic steering system would work at all if the motor is not running. What am I missing here:confused:

The orbital valve I use has a gear pump in the end of the unit, when you turn the strg. wheel without the pump running the gear pump moves enough oil to steer slowly. Off road the full hydro is fantastic. On the road it takes some getting used to, but it's driveable when properly set-up.

Assist is the Way to go if you feel road hours are Gonna Happen
I have Assist on mine And it drives great on the street and offroad it just downright Rocks!!

I think the Steering should always Have An out in Case Pump goes Out break a Line or Bust the Ram!! it Can all happen so i figured with Assist if I ever do any of these situations than i can go Back to Old School Steering just the Pump and Box Driving the pitman arm!

beacause I break Shait!!!! and Quit thinking about it just do IT!!!!
full hydro will probaly set you back more cash !!!

Assist Is great!!!!

My.02cents

Adam, ,,,

Originally posted by 66CJdean
Assist dives fine if you have a good pump that puts out enough GPM. A home built assist system should run you less tha $150 in pasts.

Dean, i remember reading in one of the hydro asist threads that H8monday started, that you were tapping the boxes out for like 250$. Is that just a thing you do for friends, or when the time comes could you hook me up. Also i plan on using a scout saginaw box, that makes no difference Does it?

And by the way i hope assist doesn't dive fine. j/k

Originally posted by Adam Ant

beacause I break Shait!!!! and Quit thinking about it just do IT!!!!
full hydro will probaly set you back more cash !!!
Adam, ,,,

We all brake shit but hey man I'm workin on it i am still busy shortening my axles, and putting the motor in, steering is a little ways away for me, so for now I'm just think'in about it. :D

Ian-

Hydro assist is definatly the way to go. Solves most problems that most wheelers have with larger tires.
Full hydro is squirlly to drive on the highway but some say it's possible but it's still not steet legal.
I sell a full kit or just the mods for the box. Just check out my website. www.westtexasoffroad.com I also have a tech article on how to boost the power of your pump which will help you out.
Please let me know if you have any more questions.

scout box will work fine !!

Snipes run this box and Dean tapped as well!!!

any more ????:flipoff2: :flipoff2:


Adam,.

Question for you guys who have done the ram assist. I went to the local shop to get the ram, but I noticed that the return pressure is not the same. Is there a ram that has the same amount of pressure going out and on return? I just got both caps off, what size lines should I run? The ram I looked at has 3/8" fittings, should I just go with these? Thanks.

There is no possible way to get a ram that puts out the same force both directions and here is why. Surface area. The area behind the piston is greater than the side with the shaft. So the smaller the shaft the closer the #'s will be but never the same. Good news is that a 1.5" or 2" ram will put out so much force you will never know the difference so don't worry about it.

I run 39.5X15X15's and have no problem turning them even when the ARB is in. It doesn't matter if I am moving or not but the good thing is if the wheels are bound then you know it because you do have good feedback so to me it is the best of both worlds.

Anyone seen a 1.5" x 8" welded ram with clevis ends that costs less than $130?

And I was thinking of finding one that's 18.25" retracted length vs. the more common 20.25". Chief makes a welded one in that length (2" bore though). i figure it' be a little easier to mount if it's shorter overall.

Charly

try this website.....
http://www.adelmans.com/military.htm

halfway down on the right there are 15 inch pumps....

(350) - HYDRAULIC,
15 INCH POWER STEERING
CYLINDERS

<img src=http://www.adelmans.com/steering.gif>

they also have some great deals on heavy duty winches....

Originally posted by Charly
Anyone seen a 1.5" x 8" welded ram with clevis ends that costs less than $130?

And I was thinking of finding one that's 18.25" retracted length vs. the more common 20.25". Chief makes a welded one in that length (2" bore though). i figure it' be a little easier to mount if it's shorter overall.

Charly Buy the common one and cut off the yoke, cut off the extra shaft you don't need, and weld the yoke back on. I had to do this on the one I put in my Jeep because there just wasn't enough room. Just cover the shaft before you weld on it so that the weld splatter does't land on it and then blow the seals out.

Anyone seen a 1.5" x 8" welded ram with clevis ends that costs less than $130?

I am using a 1.5"x 8" welded cyl that I got from "surplus Center" @ 1-800-488-3407 in Lincoln,Nebraska,I don't think they have a website so you have to call.
It is a Columbus brand cyl and the cost was 83.00 3 months ago . Also like 66cjdean, I cut the end of the shaft but I tapped a piece of round stock and tig welded that to the end and just threaded in a 5/8 rod end that I cut half the threads off so it didnt add to the lenght.

HTH
Rich

Baileynet.com has a ram that looks similar to the ram you are talking about but the rod is already shorter than what most people use.

Originally posted by TheLakeRat
Baileynet.com has a ram that looks similar to the ram you are talking about but the rod is already shorter than what most people use.

Looked again at Bailey.

The only 18.25" I see is the 2" bore by Chief.

There is a 1.5" bore, but that has the crosstubes.

And I just called Surplus Center yesterday and they don't have any.

Thanks for the cutting ideas, is it just chromed steel, weldable with 706-S?

Anyone got a site for Columbus or any other manufacturers/dealers?

The $130 I quoted was the Prince Sword series.

Thanks,

Charly