i took the beat up, stained, crap-ass carpet outa my 87 4runner. i'm going to eventually be putting down some herculiner in its place...now my question is :

i'm thinking i'm gonna remove that insulation/sound dampening stuff thats in there (see pic). chipped away some of it (upper center of pic) to see how easly it comes off, and determined that it'll take awhile to do the whole thing. its a good idea to remove this crap and then roughen up the sheetmetal before applying the herc right?

any tips for getting the bulk of it off would be helpful.

thanks.

ryan

Deinatly wanna get all that insulation and other junt out of there....if its possible, just paint...even better if just metal (so I've heard).

Something else you may wanna consider is maybe having it LineX'd. It'll cost more but that shit is incredable! Dampens sound pretty darn well too.

something that may really help in getting all the crap out is to use a pressure washer..... one of those bad ass mama jama's, they'll take off everything (Watch your toes though)

thanks man - we got a 4000 psi (dunno if thats strong enough) at the house, so i thought about trying that. if i could afford a line-x job - i'd do it for sure, but i'm a poor college boy. :( i've heard good stuff (on this BB) about the herc even if its only half-ass preped. i'll get it down to baremetal i guess, and who knows - maybe by the time i'm ready to line it i'll have the cash for a pro job - tubbing the fender wells (hopefully in the next 2 weeks) and maybe bobbing it, before i line it.

thanks for the reply - i was pretty sure that crap had to go.

hurc it .............ltr

I'd use some aircraft stripper on it. That should take it down to bare metal after a couple coats.

thx for the suggestions. i got it pretty much all up in about 2 hours with the traditional PBB method of a BFH (and a screwdriver).....well not so much a BFH really, more like a MSRM (moderately sized rubber mallet) and a screwdriver. i may use a solevent of some kinda to losen up the remaining area below the dash.

someone already mentioned using line-x instead of herc....i'd prefer the cost effectiveness of herc - but i've heard some express the concern that it gets mushy in the heat??

tx summers have this funny way of going like 30 days or so of 100+ degree temps. i plan on doing the cargo area in back and the cab, inside doors (once they are halfdoors) and various other minor things.

they sell a UV sealant for the black (herc) that keeps it from fading....might it also help keep it from getting sticky in the heat? whats your guy's take on it? line-x for the extra cash? or just herc and hope?

hurc is way cheap, and I have it sprayed it in much nicer...........get the uv sealer keeps it black and I have never had mine get "mushy" or "squishy" ...........................ltr

Having been down this road before......a wire cup brush in your 4 1/2" angle grinder works good.

I used an old hair dryer I picked up at a yard sale. I heated the stuff up, then used a fairly stiff paint scraper to get the larger chunks. Gotta go with the wire brush on the drill for the rest of it though.

My buddy used xylene, the stuff you are supposed to use to prep the metal with to get the stuff off. He said it basically turned it to near liquid form, then he wiped it off with a rag.

Originally posted by misfitcj
hurc is way cheap, and I have it sprayed it in much nicer...........get the uv sealer keeps it black and I have never had mine get "mushy" or "squishy" ...........................ltr

thanks - there was another thread in the toy section that brought that up....but that was the only time i read that it got mushy....infact, mighta been said by a guy who owns a line-x franchise....hmmmm. thx misfitcj

Originally posted by Stephenw
Having been down this road before......a wire cup brush in your 4 1/2" angle grinder works good.

Originally posted by Stephenw
Having been down this road before......a wire cup brush in your 4 1/2" angle grinder works good.


yar - i feel like a dumbass for having this stuff sitting in the gargage and not using it yet. however the sections along the tranny tunnel and the floor of the back came up in nice, big, easy chunks. the front......not so much. was gonna use the angle grider and the wire cup brush to clean up after the big stuff was gone - but hell - now that the front is being a biatch - i'll just use that for the big stuff too. or the heat gun.

excuse the blurry pic - apperantly i cant operate a camera either...

I've used some floor adhesive remover from Home Depot, it came in an orange can and the name started w/ a "j". It removed the liquid nails that the PO used to put carpet in the heep. Just be careful not to get it on your hands, it burns real nice. Also, have you looked at the spray in liner kit that Eastwood Co. sells?

http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy01.asp?UID=2003041316402092&T1=10259ZP&Dep_Key1=spc

I'm curious if this is any good, it looks a little cheaper than a pro shop, but may be better than Herculiner.

I have heard mixed reviews on that kit seems a little pricey if you can get the hurc from kragen for 79.99 + the 20 dollar rebate ............ to spray it on you will need this gun(stlye) to do it right they are cheap and I recomend the inline filter from harbor freight for 5.00 ( you get two )


here is the link where you can get the gun (http://www.eastwoodco.com/aspfiles/itemdy00.asp?UID=2003041316402092&T1=16030&I1.x=40&I1.y=70) ............................ltr

rock on - thx guys.

i'll look into that other kit - but like i said...i'm a cheap fawker. :flipoff2:

thanks for the link to the spray gun, i knew that HF sold a cheap one, and the link for kragen, i heard there was a $20.00 rebate offer from someone...

thanks again.

Liquid Nitrogen works well.
It freezes the stuff and cracks right off.

Do it in a well ventilated spot!!!!!

Use nitrogen when I build a new Rally car.

Waiting until winter is another good way.
Then take a hammer and beat it to death.

I use to spray bedliners at the body shop I worked and and spraying is way easier than rolling (my boss was cheap and we had to experiment). Unless you have a reason to never go to bare metal before you apply a product. Any time you go to bare metal you need to metal prep, seal and that crap is a pain. Usually the manufacture just states to sand with 180 grat sand paper maybe even a bit rougher so you get good bite to what is there.

Spray on is the way to go if you can. Make sure you mask anything you dont want covered and had plastic around the area. Coming out of the gun it kinda splatters and gets everywhere.

yep - definately gonna spray it. all the tar-crap is off, i found the best way was just the screwdriver and the rubber mallet - if i hit it hard enough, it flew off in big fawking chunks. :D

theres already pretty much bare metal underneath some of the parts where the tar came off, and the rest still has bits of tar stuck to it....so the worn down wire cup brush will probably come out to clean it up. i need to go buy a few sanding discs as well. gonna make it rough like you were saying to give the stuff a good surface for it to stick to.

joker - can you elaborate on


Origionally posted by The Joker
Any time you go to bare metal you need to metal prep, seal and that crap is a pain.


you have to prep the surface with Xylene anyway - is this the same thing?

thanks.

ryan

if anyone was curious:

- the wire cup brush on the angle grider didnt work for shit to get that stuff up

-the heat gun made more of a mess than it was worth. when its cold and brittle i can hit it and bust big chunks off..with it heated up, it comes up easier, but not in big flying pieces.

-the Xylene to clean up the small stuff thats left over, works great - i wouldnt however, use it on a thick layer of that tar...it just doesnt come up well enough. but for the small chunks still stuck and the smeared tar on the metal - working wonders.


gonna tub the fenderwells first - then i'll herc it. was gonna bob it.....but if i wanna use the chevy rear leafs - that rear shackle hanger has to go back 4 inches...which will put it close to the end of the frame without doing any cutting.....so, that means i could bob like, what, 2" off? and i really dont want to do a double shackle......so.......i'll just wait till i give in and do a 4link and coilovers in the rear to bob the ass off it. :D

Originally posted by Txtoy2000

joker - can you elaborate on

you have to prep the surface with Xylene anyway - is this the same thing?

thanks.

ryan

I am not familiar with Xylene. The products that we use to use were just for metal prepping not stripping or any other use. Once you got it down to metal you had to apply the Metal Prep (there are many different brands) and then immidiately after spray what ever you were spraying whether that be primer of bed liner or....... We also used not sanding sealer primers and metal etching primers but I am not sure how they react with line X or any of the products.