I am curious about welding a Dana 35 stock rear axles for my 88 Wrangler. I have a 350 V8 / NV4500 and Atlas II, but I ran out of cash for the new axles, so for now i am running the stock axles. I was going to get a No-Slip for the rear to use just until i have the cash to throw in a Dana 60 and a Detroit. It bothers me to have all sorts of wheel travel and HP and gears and still getting hung up on relatively easy obstacles because of "2 wheel drive" in 4 wheel drive. What things should i expect from doing this, and can the Dana 35 hold up to the torque and weight from the 35's w/ it welded? I know that it is only a matter of time before i snap the axles, so i am driving very conservative on the throttle. Any info would be great. Here's the set up

I can't believe its holding up as it is...don't waste your money on a locker now, and if you weld it, to carry some shafts. Save up for that 60. If you had a I-6 you might not have to worry quite as much but with 35s and a 350..... :nuke:

A buddy ran the non c clip 35 (4.56 ARB) with a 5.7 TPI for 3 months, then the pinion let go. Dont waste your money.

Why would you spend big bucks on a No-Slip instead of a LockRight? Anyway, D35's break super easy, depending on what kind of wheeling you are doing. Welding it should work just fine, especially if it is just a trail rig.

I have my 35c welded. I t has held all year on 35 swamper but I only run a 4 popper. If you are looking for cheap traction I wouldnt weld the rear but do the front. I have had the 30 welded for 4 years and ir hold up well. If you snap a front axle (which I have done twice) you can just take of the hub and old axle stick in a plug and put the hub back on and continue. Takes about 20 minutes. If you snap a rear unless you have another axle you are screwed. Plus takes alot longer to do a trail repair.

I noticed alot more gain from doing the front than I did from the rear too. I have also got a stash of axles and hubs when needed.

That brings up a question... how do you change c-clip axles with the diff welded up? I mean, I don't care because I don't have a c-clip axle, but how would you?

That's one beauty to having a D35 with a Detroit. Axle swaps only take a few minutes. HAHA!

Just run my portal 35c axles they never break:flipoff2: :rainbow: :rainbow: dana 35=:rainbow: :flipoff2:

Well I got mostly talk guys. One person says yeah do it and another says don't everyone else just talks. I am going to do it so i'll keep you all informed on how it turns out and how it holds up. I am only planning to keep the set up for no more than 10 months so wish me luck. I have plenty of spare parts, and i'm sure i'll need them.:nuke: :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: :nuke: :nuke:

Here's the Jeep.

Not sure if it is going to work though

I actually (Im using a friends screen name, Im Punkskalar) ran a welded non-c clip rear axle for a long time and never broke anything at all... Its only when i was open that i actually broek shafts and carriers and spiders and such... Weld er up, carry some shafts and have fun... Hugh

Originally posted by TornadoTJ
That brings up a question... how do you change c-clip axles with the diff welded up? I mean, I don't care because I don't have a c-clip axle, but how would you?

That's one beauty to having a D35 with a Detroit. Axle swaps only take a few minutes. HAHA! I you know how to weld you only need to weld 8 points on the spider gears. There is no need to weld the thing into a large paper weight block. I take out my axles the same way as everyone else. One axle at a time.:flipoff2:

Weld 2 one foot sections of 1/2 think plate (bout 2" wide) to either side of the pumkin (fore and aft), then get some pretty heavy chain and wrap it round the axle...welding it in place. Attach a stout rope to the end the the chain and throw that sucka overboard.

Originally posted by wild1
If you know how to weld you only need to weld 8 points on the spider gears. There is no need to weld the thing into a large paper weight block. I take out my axles the same way as everyone else. One axle at a time.:flipoff2:

Dude, Don't do a damn thing to it!!!! Be easy on it and try to get as much life out of it, so you can save for another axle. Welding it up or doing any thing else will kill it even sooner and leave you with no cash, and no jeep to drive.

So, let it be till you get a 9" or 60 or whatever.

Have you ever experienced an axle completly blowin' it guts out?!?!
It ain't fawkin' pretty sparky!!!! My POS 35 blew up on the highway, I don't wish that on anyone, I'm just glad no one got fawked when it let go.

Well it sounds like I'm getting yes's and no's across the board. I am going to weld it, bring extra parts along w/ me and wish for the best and be very easy on the throttle. With the low gears I have, I shouldn't have to push the gas down at all. Thanks for the input and i will keep everyone informed on how it holds up.:D :nuke: :flipoff2: :D

Like I said I have mine welded. If you are going to do it then have another carrier around that you can swap out if you dont like it in a couple of days. Too bad you didnt live close. I would let you take mine for a quick burn.

Do what ya' want but 2 stock open D35's blew up on Whopum and Rattler at Paragon this weekend. They were behind 6's with and running 33's. You'll need a hell of a lot more than spare axles. Both of them lost the spider gears, one lost the cross pin as it went thru his cover and puked out everything into the dirt.

i thought talking about modding a dana 35 was frowned on here...

where are the flames?

is POR turning into JU?

"fawk the 35, get yourself a 60" would be the correct POR answer

just a reminder.

The 89 YJ in the pic below is running a built 350 with a welded D35 in this pic. He ran that for a while til he had money to put in a stronger axle. He has now swapped it out, but he abused it and it didnt break. I say weld it and run it. When it breaks, get yer D60.....................

mac 'there's always a reason to upgrade' gyvr

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=241709&a=13905551&p=55555999&Sequence=0&res=high

LOL!! wow this is just rediculous :eek: I think there's a few to many 35's in all of these numbers. chevy350, 35" tires, D35. I think its pretty obvious which one of these needs to be eliminated. Dont get me wrong Im a big spool or weld-it-up fan but I dont think its even worth the welding rod. Just go to a local junk yard and pick yourself up some $200 rear 60, and $200 44 front.

I cant believe you havent disinigrated that D35, I busted two spiders gears into 4 pieces each running 35's and a carb'ed i6.

Good luck:skull:

Well i have given up and accepted the fact that i need to BUY a locker for the damn thing. I want to be able to make some $$ when i sell it in favor of the 60, so I am going to invest in a No-Slip for the rear and a lock-right for the front. I will probably sell the axles to my cousin (YJ 4" lift 33's) for some cash to buy the 60 rear and 44 front when i am ready for them. I really appreciate the info guys, but i am realizing more and more how crappy the highway and street driving would be. I still use the Jeep as my daily driver, at least for another 10 months or so, and i don't want to go through 8 sets of tires in 10 months either. Talk to you all very soon.

You wont get your money back when selling it.

Damn straight you won't! I got a spare D35 for next to nothing to use for spare parts and brackets while I saved up my green and did some research on the D44 swap. The D35 that I got HAD a lock rite in it for a little while...then I grenaded the locker as soon as I got it off the pavement. Partially my fault for not backing down fast enough when it started hopping, but I still think it should have lasted longer. If you dump 400 into a No-Slip (same as a lock rite, but nicer on the street...who cares!?) then you might as well flush it down the toilet because you will not recoup your losses. Weld it up and call it good. Its going to blow up anyway :flipoff2: When my lock rite was still there I used to keep my foot on the gas when I was on the street so that it would stay locked and act like a spool. The locking, unlocking, unpredictable lane changes, etc. really pissed me off and I would take a spool any day.

Hell, for the price of the No-Slip you could throw a meatier axle under there and not have to worry! My Scout D44 was $100 (free to me though) and I have only put $175 into brakes, shafts, seals, bearings, studs, brackets, etc. A little scrounging at some bone yards and you can probably find a D60 rear for the same price as a No-Slip. Save your pennies and do it right the first time.

I suppose any thread isn't truly JU-ish until Macgyver posts on it.

Mac, what's up? Are you getting my addy requests or what????

should i keep that CD forever????

kissie kissie,

Beezil

:flipoff2:

Do it right man! Get the super 35 kit with detroit locker and the cool axle truss. This will make that 35c bullet proof. :flipoff2: :rainbow:

Originally posted by scramblin
Do it right man! Get the super 35 kit with detroit locker and the cool axle truss. This will make that 35c bullet proof. :flipoff2: :rainbow:

:D This guys right. its all about the ":rainbow: super 35 :rainbow:" LOL

I just don't think he gets it fellas. we tell him not to waste a dime on the D35, and he says he's gonna now BUY a locker for it. Trust me. Don't waste the money. I did.. and let me tell you, it was no where near worth it. Ive got 4.56's front and rear, with a full detroit rear and a lockright front. While they have held up, to my surprise, they are getting ditched as soon as the money comes up. Heck, I'll sell you both my axles regeared and locked for $500 plus shipping.. since you are so eager to spend money :rolleyes: Man I want a 44/60 combo!
Scott :grinpimp:<><