i plan on going with waggy axles, so im sure ill need to outboard my spring hangers and shackles. whats the best way to go about this? itll be on a cj7

build some brackets with gussets ( make them strong)
weld them to your frame, then mock the axle under neath and mark the hols for the spring hangers or shackel hanger, and dill/bolt, or just weld the mounts on, there are several sets of pics floating around on here, including some of my own.

these are mine, ive seen some better, and some worse, maybe you can get the basic idea, ive since added another gusset to them, and they are bolted and welded.

Heres mine<br>http://ajax.extremejeep.com/mike/Pictures/frontspring2.jpg <br>http://ajax.extremejeep.com/mike/Pictures/frontshackle.jpg

Anyone got em?? Or a link?
I need to copy someone's work!:D
My engineering skills fall far short of my fabrication ones.
:rolleyes:

Did a search came up empty on pics, or good descriptions.:(

Looking at going front Waggy 44, SOA, and outboard.
Got the concept...just need some solid info on solid outboard set ups, that can take a beating.
Thanks in advance.

MJ

Dude.. this was half a page down

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13656

Thats what i get for relying on the search function, and "skimming" through the thread topics.

Thanks mike.

MJ:smokin:

What I did on my CJ when I installed my Scout 44, which needed to be 31" spring center to spring center, compared to 27" on the CJ frame, was to take a 6" length of 2x4x.250 wall square tubing and weld it to the side of the frame. This effectively moved the center of the spring mounts outboard 2" on each side to give me the required 31". On the front shackle hanger I integrated the hanger into the square tubing and on the rear spring hanger I welded the stock spring hanger to the tubing as if it was the frame. By using the tubing you dont have to mess around with gussets as the tubing wont bend. I will try to get some pictures and either post them or email them to you.

Tom

Heres mine..

3/16ths angle with 3/16ths plate over the top and front, Then I added the .188 wall 3x3 tube inbetween teh frame rails on the front for strength..


The rear are about 2 inches from the stock location on the frame rail

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=962921&a=13560233&p=52282402

The fronts are outboarded.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=962921&a=13560233&p=52282404&Sequence=0&res=high

And the finished front.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=962921&a=13562526&p=52362079

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=962921&a=13562526&p=52362086

Steve

i know people outboard their springs to clear the pumpkin on axle swaps but how much does this reduce articultion compared to if they were, say... on perches welded to the pumpkin? i need to know for my full width ford axle swap. thanks!
- jake

It really depends on the axle, My 60 inchers the perch will be welded to the pumpkin..

As far as articulation goes, From every one that I know that is running htis setup they can drive off the end of a 30 degree ramp.

think you could send me some badass articulation pics of rigs with outboarded springs? that would be cool as shiat!
- jake

No pictures were taken, Most of these guys dont ramp there jeeps just because theres no real reason to..

Like the 3x3 tube on the front of yours Wheelingpiazza!

I will have to....ahem...copy...that. ;)

Thanks for the pics, and descriptions...

Anyone have any stories or descriptions of set ups that didn't work, or broke?
Just trying to identify weak points or weak setups, and avoid them at all costs. :)

I know that each weld is very important, and some of the welds I see on here and other places scare me (no offense). :D

Just want to make sure I don't miss something critical, and find myself welding it back up on the trail.

Thanks.

MJ

No ramp, but heres an idea.. and no its not maxed. <br>

http://ajax.extremejeep.com/mike/Mike_jeep06.jpg
<br>
btw all my welds are stick, they're not gonna be as pretty as a mig weld.

here are some more pics, I was diggin thru some old scans

this is head on, you can see about where the Wag front spring hangers fall, also the 1/2 plate that sandwiches my frame used to be bumper mounts.

even more

Can't find pictures of the outboarding, but here's some showing the flex.
This is my first time posting pictures so sorry if it's screwed up.

C:\My Documents\My Pictures\11-19-01\flex.jpg

C:\My Documents\My Pictures\11-19-01\Untitled-Scanned-04.jpg

here is how i did mine and they are strong, i did cheat a little and used the more reverse shackle kit , but it worked well http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1560347&a=11845215&p=53423056:)

tommy, i cant see those pics!
- jake:confused:

Lets try this again. It worked in the testing forum.

Here are some links to pictures of the way I outboarded my springs on my CJ-7. I posted a description earlier.

http://members2.photofun.com/tjs80cj/HQiTOOLImageGallery/Mvc%2D560s%2Ejpg

http://members2.photofun.com/tjs80cj/HQiTOOLImageGallery/Mvc%2D559s%2Ejpg

http://members2.photofun.com/tjs80cj/HQiTOOLImageGallery/Mvc%2D561s%2Ejpg

http://members2.photofun.com/tjs80cj/HQiTOOLImageGallery/Mvc%2D558s%2Ejpg

http://members2.photofun.com/tjs80cj/HQiTOOLImageGallery/Mvc%2D562s%2Ejpg

Tom

Hey B2LB did you finally get that jeep?

What are you guys using for springs up front? I wanna do some mods this winter to my `47. Just want more flex. I have Cj5 Rear leaves on the front now, SUA. Im thinking SOA How are `78 waggy front springs? I have some already, is why Im asking. Let me know what you think.

Thanx Mike

mike, no jeep as of yet; need to sell the blazer first, get some money to start with. i plan on using cj rear springs(2.5" wide) on all 4 corners when i do the spring over. let me know when you start doing your project

I figured I'd post on this thread rather than starting a new one. At least it shows I searched. When outboarding your spring hangers, couldn't you potentially add an inch or two of lift while doing so? I may or may not get flamed for this, but I noticed a lot of the pictures, the bottom of the brackets/braces were flush with the bottom of the frame. If you bolted on a piece of heavy channel that was 1-1/2 or 2 inches taller then your frame and made the top flush, and the bottom hang down a little, it would give you that much lift. Then bolt/weld your spring hanger to the channel iron and box the open end with a piece of iron and welds. Then weld on a piece of iron that spans the width of the frame and channel Iron (on top), and another that welds to the bottom of the frame and meets the channel iron like this --[] Am I just spouting off common sense or has anyone done this? Drawbacks: Permenant lift. Plusses: Better than a body lift to fit those 38's or larger. Maintain flex of stock spring, instead of putting 2" arc ones on.
Shaggy

I think the main reason you don't see that happening is that it would be extra work to make the rear end match. With the fullsize or waggy swaps a lot of folks simply leave their rear leaves at the stock width and rearrange perches on the axle. 'Course, I'm a fawkin' Newbie, so what do I know?!?:flipoff2:

I think you misunderstood what I was saying.... The only difference between what the above pictures show and what I am saying, is that the brackets would hang below the frame a little. With a measure tape, this can be accomplished and accurate. The brackets hanging below the frame would create extra bit of lift.
Shaggy

Heres what my outboard springs look like, basiclly the same design as mikes I just closed the front up and added a 4x4x1/4 bar up front

http://wheelingpiazzas.com/pictures/Outboard%20springs/52362079.jpg

http://wheelingpiazzas.com/pictures/Outboard%20springs/56779603.jpg

The rear is set basiclly at the standard spring hanger location.

Nice job on the front hangers. The 4x4 bar is a good Idea. Of course I'd have to pound my frontmost frame strait again.
Shaggy

Mine was very tweaked on the ends It took me about 20 mins to get it straight again..

The previous owner had his tow hooks attached to the top of the frame horns, You can imagine what it looked like.. thats kind of where the box came into mind.

Heres the beginning of mine.

http://ajax.extremejeep.com/rocktoad/toadsreversal.jpg
http://ajax.extremejeep.com/rocktoad/toadscjfront.jpg

Todd, you need to add the upright to those.. I would be affraid they would bend up even tho there tied into that bumper.

Steve Thats why I said it was the beginning.

I still need to do alot of reinforcing.
I pretty much threw it together to move the jeep to my new house.

Once my bug is running and then after I do the SYE conversion to my moms YJ I will be putting the heep in the garage to finish the frame.

Sorry toad,

Missed that part..

:D

It's all good I know your just looking after this Crazy Pollock to make sure he's safe !

hahaha Of course thats me...

You still owe me a beer that I never got..

I was told that I made it back to camp grabbed two beers sat down and drank them both and then went and passed out.

I really don't remember all that

Next time I'll try to make it back with the beer :D

HAhaah just like you to hog the beer..

Next time you just need to camp closer, and its probably a good thing you passed out..

Shaggy, are you talking about something like this:
http://archiegallup.homestead.com/files/CJ5-03.jpg

that was installed when the PO repaired the rear of the frame for a little extra lift. Remember, you only get half the height in real lift, like an extended shackle. Don't know how safe it is, but it works and I've wheeled it hard. This is on the rear of my CJ.