Still tinkering with the 9012's. I think those 5" springs are pretty swanky, but definitely not in my budget right now. I decided to reposition my RoverTym uppers.

Here's the stock view within the wheel-well...notice how much up-travel I have :eek:

I moved them forward on the chassis and angled them forward as well...here's a pic of the relocated shock mount.

Here's another pic. Because of the location, I can only drill two of the holes necessary for mounting. Well, this is a temporary solution...maybe I'll get some taller springs and move them back. However, after I remove the Boge unit, if I like how the suspension is working, I'll have my buddy weld the mounts to the chassis to get the Booty out of the fab.

BTW, it looks like the shock will be extended between 5-6 inches at level, and since the shock is angled more forward, I'll be able to eek at least that much up-travel from the axle (I may need to reposition my new bump-stops...).

BTW, the through-bolts for mounting the shock that came with the RoverTym mounts are PATHETIC. About an inch too short. I'm going to tap them out for the Rancho mounting hardware that usually comes with the 9012's/

Originally posted by DieLucas!
Well, this is a temporary solution...maybe I'll get some taller springs and move them back. However, after I remove the Boge unit, if I like how the suspension is working, I'll have my buddy weld the mounts to the chassis to get the Booty out of the fab.






Taller springs dont affect the ultimate compressed position of the axle/shock UNLESS the springs bind before you reach your bumpstop or the rate is so astronomically high that they never compress much.
You still have to tailor your bumpstops to suit.

Dont weld them to the chassis, the wall thickness of the chassis isnt enough and they fatigue crack very quickly, although seeing as your over the cross member you might have a show. Hope you put crush tubes in too when you relocated them.....

Cheers
Daryl

Originally posted by derangedrover







Dont weld them to the chassis, the wall thickness of the chassis isnt enough and they fatigue crack very quickly, although seeing as your over the cross member you might have a show. Hope you put crush tubes in too when you relocated them.....

Cheers
Daryl

I'm with derange on this. These frames are awfully thin. Did you try and find some rockware uppers or copy (sorry matt) their design? Did you do anything to the lower mount or just fab an adapter? I mounted mine an inch out and down on the stock position for the lower. With those big arse bumpstops and that height I wouldn't think you would have many issues.

j

Thanks for the advice on welding to the chassis...I'll use JB Weld instead.


Nothing is fastened down yet. I just did the drilling last night. I need to tap the mount's today. I don't have crush tubes in the area behind that cross member...yet. I've got some that I'll need to trim, but will do the job.

Argghhhh...it'll have to wait 'till monday.

I got my tap today, but cannot find a 37/64ths drill bit. Grainger probably has one but their closed on the weekends. Sears was a dead-end twice today...no tap and no drill bit. I swear, this town absolutely sucks :mad:



[edit: well, I can't buy from Grainger because I have no account. I don't think I'll be finding this bit locally :mad: :mad: :mad:]

Lucas:
You might try going one size upor down and seeing if you can get your tap started (is Merv around?). You might lose some thread engagement going bigger and mightbreak a tap going smaller.

Ask Mike if he'll let you use his company name to open an account with Grainger.

I really feel sorry for you guys, I have half a dozen industrial supply shops in town. No 'wheelin' and the ground is flat, but the Grainger store is an easy walk from the house, the cheapie tool store is right down the street (past the NAPA that extends credit to me), Sears is just a little further and Harbor freight is a ten minute drive.

Nearest free wheeling is six hours away. Nearest pay to play place is three hours.

Peace,
Paul

I just got back from school. Got the drill bit from the bolt shop this morning, had to go over to Home Depot and buy a larger chuck for my drill. All's set.

PT...already talked to Mike about the Grainger thang...now only if he can get down there without sidelining himself in a strip club...:D

Originally posted by DieLucas!
...already talked to Mike about the Grainger thang...now only if he can get down there without sidelining himself in a strip club...:D

Doesn't Mike have 'people' for that. :flipoff2:



I have also been pondering a shock mount relocation. I am strarting to look into mooving the location of the shock all together. Somthing similar to what Bill has
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1466581
any thoughts? worth it, or just bling? my main goal is switch to a double eyelet shock, and to put it out of harms way.

-Jeff

Originally posted by JSBriggs


Somthing similar to what Bill has
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=1466581
any thoughts? worth it, or just bling? my main goal is switch to a double eyelet shock, and to put it out of harms way.

-Jeff

I think that set-up rocks...I certainly was pondering moving them in-board, but that would require some real fabrication...skillz and billz I don't have :D