Here is some background on the subject:

Transplanting an '87 FJ60 2F into a '72 FJ40.

Installed F water pump and alternator onto 2F. Now, with F fan blade installed, it rubs on the crankshaft pulley. The F crank pulley won't work, as it sits too far back to align the fan belt with the water pump and alternator. We also want to keep the 2F crank pulley to run a Saginaw P/S pump and York air compressor in the future.

I won't mention what we did to get this working until I hear some other ideas first :D What we did was really hokey, but in desperation, we did what we had to do :eek:

Thanks again to those that have helped out, your assistance is appreciated! If anyone has any questions about the swap (other than the damn fan rubbing on the crank pulley :flipoff2: ), let me know :p

Pics to follow in a day or so, once my wounds heal and I wring the rest of the gear oil out of my skin :barf:

?Que? No one who's done this swap remembers what they did with the fan? :rolleyes: C'mon, SOMEBODY has to have the answer, at least a sugguestion :D

Well, we decided to shave a little metal off of the fan blades - About an inch and a half. :eek: No idea what it will do for cooling or balance of the water pump, but it works.

The 2F swap went really well and we actually fired it up tonight, with an open exhaust! Bet the neighbors loved that :flipoff2:

Any sugguestions about what to do with the carburetor linkage? The 2F uses the funky rod and linkage system...We may try to adapt the wagon gas pedal and linkage to work in the '40.

hmmmm,...let me see.

as it sits now, I have all f equipment on a 2f exept :D the water pump.

but, when I bought the rig that I got the 2f out of (76) it had a cooked water pump so I had to use an f pump that I had in a junk pile just to get it home. I cant remember axactly what I did, its been arond 8 years.

the 2f didnt have a fan clutch so I may have used the 2f water pump pully and fan on the f pump.

if its just a matter of making the fan clear, you can run a small alluminum spacer (3/4")

I have a spacer laying around, its yours if you want it
:beer:

Ya' know, sometimes I just don't use my head :eek: I was even in Pep Boys today and didn't even think about looking at aluminum fan spacers...DOH! Well, it's too late, the fan's been modified. I guess if it doesn't cool right, he can scrounge up another fan and we can try the spacer route. Thanks for the offer on the spacer. If Tim pops in here, I'll leave it up to him if he wants to take you up on this.

So you're running the F manifolds on the 2F? We just left everything alone except for a new F water pump, the F alternator (thanks for the tip Rick D!) and originally the F fuel pump. Well, the F fuel pump wouldn't work, at least not with the little fuel pump spacer, so we swapped the 2F fuel pump back on and it fired right up.

Oh, FWIW, we discovered that the FJ60's clutch slave will bolt onto the FJ40 too :)

So, what is the desired size for exhaust tubing on a 2F? 2.25", 2.5 or 3"?

Thanks!

:usa:

ya, just let me know if ya need it. I have used it before so I know it fits. I actually have a fan or two or three. say the word

and ya, ...F intake (73)with non-USA carb, F ex man, F-air cleaner, Mallory dist (from my old F). Like I mensioned, I used the 2-F h2o pump because the 2-F had an oil cooler that neede the 2-F pump. I chucked all the ai shit and pluged the ports in the head :D. and allong with the 2-f manafold went the EGR crap too .

I run a 2 1/4 exaust pipe through a chery bomb. It works fine for me. I like the smooth low end it gives me.

I think allot of guys run 2 1/2 pipes. good healthy size.

IMO 3" is a little much

:beer:

:eek: You shaved metal from the fan blades? What about balance. Let us know how long your water pump lasts now. Good Luck.

Originally posted by fc187
ya, just let me know if ya need it. I have used it before so I know it fits. I actually have a fan or two or three. say the word

and ya, ...F intake (73)with non-USA carb, F ex man, F-air cleaner, Mallory dist (from my old F). Like I mensioned, I used the 2-F h2o pump because the 2-F had an oil cooler that neede the 2-F pump. I chucked all the ai shit and pluged the ports in the head :D. and allong with the 2-f manafold went the EGR crap too .

I run a 2 1/4 exaust pipe through a chery bomb. It works fine for me. I like the smooth low end it gives me.

I think allot of guys run 2 1/2 pipes. good healthy size.

IMO 3" is a little much

:beer:

We used the F h20 pump because it looked like a better fit, and we had a new-in-the-box one laying around. As for the oil cooler, we welded up the t-stat housing fitting, put a pipe plug on the head, and called it good. We'll cap off the fittings on the cooler to keep the crud out, or try to find a 2F oil filter mount w/o the cooler attachment.

I'll tell Tim about your fan offer. I'm sure we can work a trade for some :beer:

Thanks again fc! :usa:

Originally posted by DonM
:eek: You shaved metal from the fan blades? What about balance. Let us know how long your water pump lasts now. Good Luck.

Umm, yeah, we did :eek: Desperate times call for desperate measures! It was really just a temp. fix. I think fc may contribute to the cause though and save us :D We really just wanted to get the engine in and assured that it ran and was leak and problem free (it is). The fan issue should be worked out soon.

I'm planning a 76 2F swap into my 72 later on this year. Did you have to change the position of the motor mounts for your swap?

If you have any tips or can point me to any links that have write ups on the swap I'd appreciate it.

I'm having the engine rebuilt right now and plan on putting Clifford Performance's Fuel Injection kit on next year.:D
:bounce: :bounce2:

Sorry I'm getting in on this late. Looks like Jim has identified his problem and has an alternative solution.

I swapped a 79 2F into my 68 fj40 a couple of years ago. I had picked up a running hulk, so all the accessories were present which made this much easier. I did get al the gaskets needed to prevent any leaks and replaced them before the install.

The motor mount points are the same, you can use use either the mounts and motor supports from the F or the 2F or some combination of the 2. I recommend upgrading to the later 2F motor mounts (rectangular vs round), for strength, and new ones if in your budget. I just recieved all the hardware, mounts, and the rubber isolators to change mine this winter when I swap a heated motor in.

I also swapped the 4 speed and bellhousing in mated to my 3 speed tcase at the same time. The F bellhousing and everything behind and connected to it will bolt right up.

The clutch slave mounted on the driver side on my F so on the 2F (4 speed) I moved the pivot pin to the driver side and retained the original slave, hose and mounting hardware.

When I pulled the intake from the 2F I found it was cracked on the floor below the carb. The donor also had a severly rusted and warped header. To resolve this I used my F intake and a new 2 piece header from SOR. To mount the intake, I had to file the aluminum mounting flanges for the larger 10mm mounting bolts (which I changed to studs to easy installation). Took 10 minutes with a good rat tail file.

I already had a Weber (now in a box) which used the cable so no additional linkage issues here. I haven't done it but it looks like you could integrate the rod linkage into the firewall if you had all the pieces from a donor vehicle, and were able to weld.

I used the Wrangler Power 140 amp alt that was on the F. I chose to move it to the upper passenger side (stock 2F) location, but could have put it where it was. I was prepping for a saginaw conversion and wanted the steering pump mounted there, so the move made sense. I don't remember the specifics of the wiring, but with the Haynes diagrams, I figured it out without much trouble. That has since been replaced with a huge 220 amp gm alt from mean green hanging from the side of a york on a custom mount .

For the air cleaner I found (thanks rugburn) a later F with 2bbl lid and used it, retaining the cool factor of the early cannister air box. You can use the later oval air box also. I have since replaced the Weber with a non-usa 2bbl which dropped right in. TBI is in the works and the same airbox will be retained when that is installed.

Any F or 2F distributor will drop in, the clamp may have to be changed from the matching donor. I used the 79 distributor at first (later swapping my points non-usa one back in) connecting the 2 wires that are left (after everything is connected) to switched 12vdc. Depending on the year, there may be another connection from the starter need to fire the ignition when the engine is cranking. Either starter will work, but the later, smaller ones with gear reduction are preferred.

Since the water pump on the donor was good I didn't experience the trouble Jim has. The fan and clutch fit without interference and seem to pull more air. I did use the later (79) shroud, but don't remember if it was needed or not to fit correctly.

In conclusion, physically the 2 motors fit the same. Bolt patterns and location are the same. Electrical connections, fuel lines, and carb linkage will be the areas you need to modify. Generally if you have a complete donor everything you need will be on one of the 2 cruisers, with exception of some hoses and maybe some wire.

rigez, I'll be glad to share any specific help if you have other questions.

Mike "SpaceGhost" Smythe

Originally posted by rigez
I'm planning a 76 2F swap into my 72 later on this year. Did you have to change the position of the motor mounts for your swap?

If you have any tips or can point me to any links that have write ups on the swap I'd appreciate it.

I'm having the engine rebuilt right now and plan on putting Clifford Performance's Fuel Injection kit on next year.:D
:bounce: :bounce2:

Nope, nothing changed as far as the motor mounts were concerned. We used the 2F's motor mounts and brackets and they fell right in place. Well, sort of. Some prying and fiddling with the hoist was needed. A little swearing helped too :D

We used the FJ60 throttle linkage too including the accelerator pedal. It needed to be relocated a bit, but it all lined up just fine when we were done with it.

The wiring was pretty simple. The coil (+) wire's ring connector was clipped off and the FJ60's plug was spliced in. This allowed the use of the 60's fully electronic ignition. Same went for the FJ60's gear reduction starter. We still need to wire up the water temp. and oil pressure senders.

The F's upper and lower radiator hoses worked as we used a new F water pump and fan. The rear heater and oil cooler fittings were capped off with pipe plugs sourced from Toyota. The heater hose fitting on the 2F's t-stat housing was welded up too.

Thanks to Rick D's tip, the stock FJ40's alternator and bracket were removed from the F and bolted right on to the 2F.

The 2F bolted right up to the 3-speed bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch. The engine and trans. went back in the exact same spot so the shifters and driveshafts remained in their stock locations. Since the stock clutch slave was leaking, we lifted the one off of my friend's FJ60 and after swapping out the pushrods. it too bolted right up.

That is about all I can think of for now :D All in all, the swap went really well without any major problems (or injuries! :rolleyes:).

I wish I could say that for all of the projects we do! :bounce2:

Thanks for the information and the tips guys!

One more thing. Is it possible to make the swap without removing the front clip and fenders?

Originally posted by rigez
Thanks for the information and the tips guys!

One more thing. Is it possible to make the swap without removing the front clip and fenders?

I won't stick my neck out and say "No", but it was a heck of a lot easier as we pulled the engine and tranny/x-fer out together (and reinstalled the 2F+trans/x-fer) this way.

I can't think of what a PITA it would have been if the fenders and front bib were left in place.

Tim had aleady removed the bib and fenders before I showed up but maybe he'll chime in and explain just how easy it was once all of that stuff was out of the way.

Keep in mind, the inline sixes are long engines (especially with the rest of the drivetrain attached!) so you're looking at one narrow opening to get one out of the engine compartment. I have a Trans-Dapt attachment for my engine hoist that allows the engine/trans. to be tilted for easy removal. Even with the fenders and bib gone, we still had to go with a pretty steep angle during the removal process.

Hope this helps!

So airing down the front tires would help. Thanks for the quick response.