Ok, I did a search and didn't come up with much.

How do I know if my 02 sensors on my RRC have failed? General poor performance? Bad mileage? My wife (who frankly pays more attention to such things) notices worse mileage out of LWB #2 than LWB #1. I gave it a pretty good tune-up, short of plugs wires and coil, and she still says it's not as good as the other. I'm wondering if it's time to pony up for some 02 sensors.

Is there a way to tell if they're bad? 115K on them so far.

Also, where is a good place to get plug'n'play 02 sensors. I'm not in the mood to mess around with the Nissan ones (is that right?).

Michael:
I have researched this issue and with help from John Robison, have the diagnostic procedure, but it requires a dual-trace oscilloscope.

Essentially, the sensors have an output that is something of a sine wave that will move from ~0.5 volts to ~1.5 volts depending upon the exhaust gas makeup. If the deviation becomes less, or the transit time increases, the fuel economy goes away. Unfortunately, the ECU will not throw a fault code until the sensor fails miserably. As a result, often-times, the only indication is poor fuel economy.

With the number of miles on your truck, I strongly suggest you replace them on principle if nothing else. I used those from oxygen sensor.com, but you need to solder the wires and connectors to them-it's not a hassle if you're so equipped. Otherwise, contact Nathan Crabtree at 502-8rovers. Tell him I sent you, he'll have the P-N-P.

FWIW when I swapped mine, I noticed no change. After installing cleaned injectors, my fuel mileage JUMPED!. I now have starting and idling problems to fix-it's never over, eh?

Lastly, swapping oxygen sensors in a Rover is easier than any other vehicle I have done this on!

Peace,
Paul

tell me more about cleaning injectors and/or purchasing new ones.

pros/cons???

Originally posted by Serious One
tell me more about cleaning injectors and/or purchasing new ones.

pros/cons???

Not sure about the pros and cons, but I do know napa charges $25 per injector to clean them. It helped a lot on my Heep when I had it.

Justin

$25/injector? Highway robbery! It shouldn't cost more than $10-that's what I charge after marking them up to compensate me for taking them to the shop to be done.

The injectors have the inlet filters yanked out, the inlet throat is scrubbed to remove the rust that WILL be there, now they are put in a machine that cycles the injectors at engine speed simulations while flowing a cleaning solution through them and the flow rates are meaured at each speed. If they are within specs, they are returned to you with new inlet filters and any crud removed that could be removed by running a mildly aggressive solution of carburetor cleaner through them.

I have found that there is usually one per batch that is leaking and one that doesn't open consistently-afterwards, these maladies are corrected. Or, the injector is replaced.

Call around to the diesel repair shops in your area. The Bosch site helped me fidn the local shop that does the work for me.

You will also want to carefully scrub the inside of the fuel ral to remove the rust that is there-trust me, there is rust in the fuel rail.

Peace,
Paul

rust in the fuel rail? Even here in the desert? Tell me more...

(f-in newbie)

Mike:
When you open up the injector rail, there is almost always a sizable accumulation of rust in the rail, right by the injector. It has been surmised that mosture in the fuel causes the steel fuel lines to rust. In spite of what one might expect, the accumulation point is right at the injector, no doubt due to the inlet filters.

Yet another wheel I had to reinvent. I posted a question concerning this process on Dweba nd got no responses. I didn't see it as particularly groundbreaking, but apparently it is/was.

Peace,
Paul

i asked the same question about the 02 sensors a while ago and i got this response:

Try this it's much cheaper, attach a digital voltmeter or the older
meter type to the sensor and a good body ground. The sensor is
positive. The readings you'll get once the sensor has heated up will
be from 1.1 volts (1100 millivolts, or mv) down to about 100 mv.
Higher readings are rich, lower readings are lean. The perfect
mixture for cruise is 400 mv. Your results may vary.

If you're wondering how a sensor can read oxygen content in rich
mixtures where there is no extra oxygen, the sensor begins to act as
a temperature sensor above 400mv.

i have been unable to do this test so i dont know if it works or not
just passin on the word.

now for my own question...
would an o2 sensor actually make the engine run rich. im havin this problem and cant figure it out. my efi light is on. and im cheap and dont want to pay like 100 bucks a pop.

-newbie so bam:flipoff2: right back at ya (just prepared)

Spent a few days at the lake during x-mas. Every time I came down Hwy 267 my check engine light came on. The coasting from the summit of 7300 ft to lake level of 6200 would trip the light. ( bank one sensor one, out of parameters) I carry my OBDII cord for my lap top , so the reset was not a big deal. After the third reset in two days. I drove to Reno for a fix.

I picked up a two universal O2 sensors from Summit Racing , and popped them in. I have 8k on them and I've had no problems and there only 56.00ea. I'm normally not a fan of the universal sensors , but I starting to be one.

Catco #02-04, Summit part # CTO-024

FYI, I just replaced one of my O2 sensors with one from oxygensensors.com, and they actually had the OEM rover one for $100. With the right plug and everything. Just screw in and plug in.

yeah, but with 20 minutes of my time I saved 50 bucks a sensor and bought 4 for the price of 2 plug-n-plays.

The Cheap Bastard in me won out when it came time to order them.

I'm glad I ordered the cheaper ones, they were so easy to splice in once I did I can't believe I actually considered buying the other ones. Figures.

Welcome new-B.

:flipoff2:

I picked up a two universal O2 sensors from Summit Racing , and popped them in. I have 8k on them and I've had no problems and there only 56.00ea. I'm normally not a fan of the universal sensors , but I starting to be one. O2 sensors are basically all the same, so your "generic" sensor was probably built by one of the 2 or three companies that make them (Bosch, ATK and one other). Odds are, it is the same subcontractor LR gets theirs from!