Looked around briefly. As far as bolt on kits are concerned I have seen them for a wagoneer D44, but what about a Wagoneer AMC20?

The 4 bolt flange on the end of the Waggie 44 is the same as the AMC20 as far as the bolt pattern goes.

Is there something weaker about the flanged end of the 20 compared to the 44? I understand you could potentially spin the tubes but other than that?

(thinking of fabricatting a disc brake bracket and building my own "kit")

the easy/cheap seems to be. mount a front wag rotor behind the axle flange on teh rear axle shaft ( have it on there then get the bearing pressed on.

then buy/make the caliper brackets , they are $13 each at AFCO for GM calipers, then GM calipers are $20 each

weld them onto the axle tubes in the appropriate location

a little more to ad caddy calipers with parlking brakes, but im reading that those dont work so well.

I know I can get weld on brackets and use GM calipers....

Was hoping for a bolt up approach, and just wondered why they don't sell one for a 6 lug. (maybe just lack of demand?)

The Disc brake E-brake... anyone have one that does actually work? :D

I just did this and I used everything off a waggy front dana 44, mounted the disc to the back of the flange but did not have it pressed on, I modified the bearing retainer to fit through the rotor, but I did modify the cal brackets and weld them on, but you could make them bolt on I suppose

hey jeep77cj5,

got any pics of that modifided bearing retiainer? Id like to see how that works.

Im ot sure I understand what your describing, but I think Id like to!

by retainer I mean the piece that is in front of all the seals the piece that bolts over the backing plate normally, It will not fit through the rotor normally but if you trim about a 1/4 inch off the bottom so that the bottom now looks similar to the top it then can be manipulated through the rotor so you don't have to have anything pressed on or off to change the axle itself as long as the spare has bearing and seals on it of coarse....

Originally posted by jeep77cj5
by retainer I mean the piece that is in front of all the seals the piece that bolts over the backing plate normally, It will not fit through the rotor normally but if you trim about a 1/4 inch off the bottom so that the bottom now looks similar to the top it then can be manipulated through the rotor so you don't have to have anything pressed on or off to change the axle itself as long as the spare has bearing and seals on it of coarse....

ok, I'll claim newbie here... I can't picture this in my head. why would the rotor get in the way? I would get longer studs and put the rotor on the end of the axle like most late model cars/trucks do today.

Got a picture?

He is talking about having the rotor inside of the axle flange. then you press the studs through the rotor and the flange, similar to the way the rotor is mounted on a front axle. You need to modify the retainer plate so you can get the rotor off the axleshaft without having to press the bearings off.

If you use a rotor with a large hat, so it fits over the outside of the flange then it isn't an issue. You can get such a rotor from the aftermarket disc brake conversion companies, but if you use the GM 1/2 ton rotor you can get one any where any time.