if you run a front dana60 i highly sugguest biting the bullet and installing 35spline outers. i have broken two 30 spline stub shafts in my 60 and both times it took out the lockout and swelled the spindle so i could not get the hub assy off without cutting the outer bearing with a torch. i broke my last stub about 5 months ago and i tore my jeep down and started on my new rig. well tonight i have been trying to get the thing part and what a PITA. i have the 35 spline stubs waiting to go in it and good thing i have spare spindles. anyway it'll be cheaper to get the 35 spline stuff than to go through what i am going through (for the second time!) right now. anyway....

are you running 44s and a detroit or spool?i havent upgraded yet but maybe i should hereing your story.

if your running 35 spline stuff i highly recomend gettin 40 spline axles :flipoff2: it never ends :D

Just screw it and get a d70 front end. :) :)
~John

I'm going with 35 spline off the bat, since I need new hubs, I don't want to spend money on 30 spline hubs. I'm going with 35 spline right now.:D

i'm gonna go out on a limb here and be the odd ball 32sp ;)

Originally posted by 73k5tony510
are you running 44s and a detroit or spool?i havent upgraded yet but maybe i should hereing your story.

42's and a detroit. i had 2 sets of 30 spline outers and i was hoping they would last until someone came out with a good set of alloy shafts for the 60 similar to the warn shafts for the 44. i just wanted to post and say TRUST ME! it is not worth it to try and run the 30 spline stuff. last time i had to replace the rotor (from trying to beat the hub assy off the spindle), all beaings, lockout, stub, and i managed to salvage the spindle after working on it a while in my buddy's machine shop. well this round it is looking like the same thing only i have already had to cut more out and i have not gotten it off yet. it is late and i can't be beating on crap now because my kid nor the neighbors would appreciate it. i'll go back at it in the morning.

got 'em....35 all around :flipoff2:

good advice certianly

I'll trade ya some spare 30 spline outers for your 35 spline outers if you wanna try it again :flipoff2:
The rig is looking reeeeal nice.

If you don't run much motor and have a light vehicle 30 spline will hold up just fine :D (just as a reference point- 1 year and no failures on 30 spline )

Did in 5 ,30 spline outers last year.
The 35 spline upgrade is now done

I am wondering when I will need to upgrade to these $2100 hardened shafts with CTM's that they are advertising in the vendor secton???

I keep hammering the piss out of my 35 spline stuff with no breakage.

I can only guess that it would take having a rear steer D60 to break a 35 spline axle enough to warrant that kind of $$ on an upgrade.

no it takes somebody who knows how to thrash their shit... or else you're not running hard enough trails Nolen :flipoff2:

Hal destroyed a 35 spline 60 inner/outer and u-joint at cal-rocs in Barstow. I bet his rigs as heavy as yours... He upgraded to the CTM 300M shafts and installed them two nights ago. We'll see how they do in Fernley.

Doug

Originally posted by white knight
Did in 5 ,30 spline outers last year.
The 35 spline upgrade is now done

did you go through what i am going through all 5 times? it would be nice if all that blew was the stub shaft. they can be had relatively cheap and would be a nice fuse but the fact that when they blow they take out the spindle and lockout too it is a real PITA!!

Originally posted by Doug K
He upgraded to the CTM 300M shafts and installed them two nights ago.


DROOL!!!! i wish. one of these days i'll when i get my rig finished and i can recoupe from some of the $$$ it is costing me to build it i'll save up for a set of ctm's and shafts.

i will also add that the 35spline inner on the other side (which is the side that i lost the first stub) is twisted pretty good at the splines. i expect to see the same when i get this side out.
:(

I was never brave enough to run 30 spline stuff with my 44's. But from running the 35-spline stuff, my advice to you is WELD THE CAPS IN!!!!!!!!!!!! I can not stress this enough. The first time I pounded it hard without the caps welded, they walked out and took out the ears on both the BRAND NEW inner AND outer shafts. The u-joint was also brand new. The trunions of the joint were unharmed, but all caps were shattered to hell and back. Since welding the caps in I haven't hit anything quite as hard but nearly as hard and have had no problems.

J. J.

Originally posted by High5


42's and a detroit. i had 2 sets of 30 spline outers and i was hoping they would last until someone came out with a good set of alloy shafts for the 60 similar to the warn shafts for the 44.

They have, Superior axle is now making heat treated 4340 60 shafts, Pig has them up in the vendor section. They are comparable to the $3200 CTM shafts at half the price.

Anyone running cut down 35 spline shafts in a Ford? What else do you have to do to run them? I heard that Moser is selling them for Fords now too???

I have 35 spline stubs with Ford spindles. The stubs are cut back a little, and a different inner race was used to space out the hub. I bought it as a kit not knowing how easy it was to do.

You could also get the splines cut back a little instead.

I broke 3 30spline outers and 2 times they went through the lockout.

I ran 2 years on the 30 spline outers, when I lost one it took out the spindle, bearings, locknuts, and hub dial (OE Spicer). As mentioned, it wouldn't be so bad breaking the stub if it had the typical failure mode of just a clean break. I went with the Warn hubs, which IMO suck. I kind of wish I'd had the Spicers wire'd out, however the Warns are easy to unlock--when they're working.

Pete

Originally posted by bigdude
If you don't run much motor and have a light vehicle 30 spline will hold up just fine :D (just as a reference point- 1 year and no failures on 30 spline )

No failures.. didnt your brake a hub the first time your took it out one year ago:D

But im with you, it will hold for now... Im gonna sport my little 37s with a spool in front, till I get the 35splines and warn hubs...

bigdude you have an 1980+ ford d60? so it dosent have the neckdowns my pussy 79 d60 has...

Originally posted by Bushwhacker
Anyone running cut down 35 spline shafts in a Ford? What else do you have to do to run them? I heard that Moser is selling them for Fords now too???

i am

cut down in lenght 5/8" - 3/4"
put the snap ring groove back in

thats it

Originally posted by redruM


i am

cut down in lenght 5/8" - 3/4"
put the snap ring groove back in

thats it


Is the snap ring groove that important?? I've heard its not needed. Did you have to change out a race also? Got a part number for it?

Does it matter which type of hubs you have for this swap(inner/outer)?
I may end up running some home made flanges that my buddy made instead of hubs.


thanks

just turn your arb off, DER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! jiMMy

Originally posted by bigdude
If you don't run much motor and have a light vehicle 30 spline will hold up just fine :D

I run an imitation engine (190k-mile 22R) and a 3800 pound rig, and have broken 35 spliners. :p

I guess the 171:1 crawl and 44's could have something to do with it, though. :)

while we are talking 35spline stuff how about the warn 35spline hubs. i have heard a few times that they are the weak link in this setup. true? i was wanting to get flanges instead of the lockouts but i found a good deal on a brand new set of 35spline stubs and warn lockouts and i could not pass it up. i plan to go ahead and run the warn lockouts for now and that is why i am asking. i do plan to upgrade to flanges later though.

p.s. i got it off. i found that cutting the cage of the bearing and then digging all the roller out and the pulling the cage out is the easiest way to do it. thenyou can pull the wheel hub off and the innder bearing and seal will stay on the spindle. i just pushed them back out of the way and used a die grinder to cut through what was left of the bearing. this releaved the tension and i tapped it off with a hammerp. i will repeat PITA!!!!!

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

I guess the 171:1 crawl and 44's could have something to do with it, though. :)

You think???? :flipoff2:

Is the snap ring groove that important??

The only problem I have found without the snap ring groove is it will alow the axle to float inward, the stub shaft will not seal against the spindle, which means water in the bearings. I've been running mine without the snap ring groove for over a year with no problems other than having to repack the bearings every time I get in water. Gets old after a while.:)

Originally posted by High5
while we are talking 35spline stuff how about the warn 35spline hubs. i have heard a few times that they are the weak link in this setup. true?

Potentially. I didn't torque-break my Warn hubs; they came apart due to snap ring grooves being cut too close to the edges of parts, and probably from vibration. I have seen the Warn hubs break from torque. I run Dana drive slugs.

Originally posted by High5
while we are talking 35spline stuff how about the warn 35spline hubs. i have heard a few times that they are the weak link in this setup. true? i was wanting to get flanges instead of the lockouts but i found a good deal on a brand new set of 35spline stubs and warn lockouts and i could not pass it up. i plan to go ahead and run the warn lockouts for now and that is why i am asking. i do plan to upgrade to flanges later though.

I haven't broken a hub yet. My u-joint and shafts all broke and the hub was fine. When I get some alloy shafts, I am probably going to run flanges though.

J. J.

Originally posted by mudtruck44

and a different inner race was used to space out the hub.




You would not happen to know the part number of that race would you? Or anyone else?

Originally posted by High5


did you go through what i am going through all 5 times? it would be nice if all that blew was the stub shaft. they can be had relatively cheap and would be a nice fuse but the fact that when they blow they take out the spindle and lockout too it is a real PITA!!

Chewed out the spindle and the lockouts blew out
It sucks.

I just got my 35 outters for my hp 60. Prolly one of the best upgrades and fairly inexpensive.

http://www.carolina-performance.com/axles/D60/2003-04-23/000_0003.jpg

http://www.carolina-performance.com/axles/D60/2003-04-23/000_0007.jpg

Originally posted by dblue351



You would not happen to know the part number of that race would you? Or anyone else?

In case anyone else was wondering I found the part numbers.

382S

what are you doing to gernade D60's like that?

My friends K5 has a 402 in it, D60, 30 spline, Deee-troit in the front and 44's. He's run the Hammers, the 'Con, and Tank Trap and keeps it together.

is your jeep a pig or something?

Originally posted by zakk
what are you doing to gernade D60's like that?


is your jeep a pig or something?

Nope, High5 gets it:D

Or you could go the 16 spline route and get rockwells.

Originally posted by Hayraker


Nope, High5 gets it:D

and the hammers don't?:confused:

Originally posted by zakk


and the hammers don't?:confused:

I'm sure he could break shafts there too...

no one has mentioned anything about wheather or not changing the spindle bearing is important or not when going from 30 to 35 spline. I had heard that there was a difference in the shaft diameter where the bearing runs and the 35 spline stubs would be loose in the spindle if you did not change the bearing, although if anything you would think the bearing would be to tight.

So whats the story from the gods?

Uh ... I don't know. I didn't change mine and it hasn't hurt anything yet.

J. J.

Just exploded my 35 spline inner (short), Spicer forged joint and 35 spline outer today.

Anyone got something better? :D That's two 35 spline outers in the last three wheeling trips. :D

what does it cost besides the $200 hubs???

Hmmm, I just received a new set of Spicer axles and forged joints and slugs. I thought the same bearing could be used too... In fact, my old stuff is going into service as spares so I hope there is no bearing issue. What's the scoop?

Originally posted by chvy boat
no one has mentioned anything about wheather or not changing the spindle bearing is important or not when going from 30 to 35 spline. I had heard that there was a difference in the shaft diameter where the bearing runs and the 35 spline stubs would be loose in the spindle if you did not change the bearing, although if anything you would think the bearing would be to tight.

So whats the story from the gods?

Same bearing. The only thing needed to upgrade for chevy/dodge is locking hubs or slugs.
IMO warn 35 spline locking hubs are POOP.

Originally posted by Aggro
Same bearing. The only thing needed to upgrade for chevy/dodge is locking hubs or slugs.
IMO warn 35 spline locking hubs are POOP.
That's what I thought, thanks. Also agreed on the lock-outs, that's why I got the slugs... I just hate loosing the option to unlock one, but frankly, I never did it anyway...

Thanks, I should have said it was for a ford 60 does that make a difference?

And yea warns are crap, but it is either that or chanel locks to engage and disengage the oem lock outs, It is one of those things where they give you a life time warranty and think that excuses the crap quality. But for them, it makes it so most of use have to buy 2 sets of lock outs, one for spares and one to run.

Originally posted by zakk
what are you doing to gernade D60's like that?

My friends K5 has a 402 in it, D60, 30 spline, Deee-troit in the front and 44's. He's run the Hammers, the 'Con, and Tank Trap and keeps it together.

is your jeep a pig or something?

your asking if my jeep was a pig and your buddy is runing a K5??? no it was not that much of a pig. if he hasn't broken a 30 spline outer with a 402 and a heavy k5 then he doesn't get heavy with the skinny peddal. not that that is a bad thing, i just choose to use mine some times and that is when i get into trouble. :D

hes talking about me and i hammer down hard sometimes.when i was in the tank trap in hollister i was getting air bouncing off stuff tring to climb upand ended up braking a 14ff ujoint strap wich i fixed after i got out with my winch.i try to go a little essier on the pedal but after hering your story i think i will be upgrading as well to save my self the headake.in 4 years of searious abuse they did hold up just fine but im not gonnatake anny chances.i proably ilready jinxed my self annyways:)