I've got a '91 YJ, so I don't have the larger ujoints in my Dana 30 like the older YJs and TJs and I'd like to get a little more beef up there till I can afford to swap that axle out too. I read somewhere that all I had to do was put in TJ axle shafts, but I'd like to now for sure. Anyone done this before?

Find yourself some axles from a 95 yj. The swap will be easier. The tj does not have a disconnect like yours so you would have to change the seal.

Yea I guess thats pretty obvious:smokin: , what was the first year the YJs had the 297s?

yep and the only.

alright, thats what I thought, thx for the help

late model YJ with ABS will have the large U-joints your looking for for the swap.

Pretty much any replacement axle you get for the YJ now comes with the bigger u-joint. Drivetrain Direct has them for $200 both sides.

A better way would be to get a set of Warn or Superior alloy axle shafts for around $450 and stuff it with CTM joints for $300. That will make a respectable combo if you want to keep the D30.

However it looks like you're planning an SOA so I'd swap to a Waggie D44 and put the alloy axle shaft/CTM joint combo into that. This axle will also allow you to set up street legal high steer setup that will be most likely neened with the SOA anyway.

He said untill he can afford a swap.

I kinda thought about that kutyafal, but sinking another $650 in D30 would probably be a waste now. I figure I'll leave it how it is now, and carry spare shafts with the beefier u-joint, and slap that in if I run into trouble. Hopefully I'll have enough $$$$ to slap atleast a 44 up front when I SOA in the spring/summer.

You might have a hard time finding a 95 YJ in the J yard, but you wouldn't have any touble finding a XJ.

XJ's have solid shafts (like the TJ). To make the seal work (the old one rides right where the Vacuum Disco collar goes) you have to press on a little metal sleeve that essentially makes the shaft a bigger diameter so the seal seats right.

You do this, you'll have 297x, no more vacuum disco. Only thing is that now you can't run anything but an OX or ARB in the front b/c both shafts are always turning. Answer: gotta get hubs, and OX/ARB or pull the stub shaft on one side.

In all honesty, the only difference between a built 30 and a 44 is the ring gear/carrier size. I dunno what you plan on running power/tire wise, but there's something to be said for a D30 with strong shafts/ujoints versus a D44 that has stock shafts/ujoints and may cost more

Bottom line: If you have cash into your D30 now (gears/lockers) you might wanna think about hanging onto it. Go for the swap if you don't already have cash into the 30...

You've got a good point since I am locked and geared front, but instead of messing with hubs I'll get some shafts from DLD with the bigger u-joints. Wouldn't mind trashing the vacum disconect, but isn't the hub conversion $1000+...thats just a little too big of an investment for it a think.

yeah, warn wants like $800 for the hub kit, which really isn't that great (the hubs are Ford Ranger parts). I was just saying that if you run a detroit up front with solid shafts then you won't be able to steer even if you're in 2wd.

What I'm trying to figure out how to do is put CJ outers (the whole knuckle/hub assembly) on to get the 5 on 5.5 lugs patern which means that you can get Warn premium hubs-which are worth the cash.

Basically, the swap to Cj parts means you have to the old knuckle off your D30, weld (have someone who knows what they're doing weld...) on the CJ parts and presto: D30 with heavy duty shafts, heavy duty u joints, 5 on 5.5 lug pattern with warn premium hubs. Only difference between that and a D44 or a Currie 9" is the carrier size and shaft diameter....

You could probably find the CJ parts for cheap-free, and you can cut the knuckles off yourself. I just don't know if the CJ hub will accept the TJ/XJ outer stub shaft....

Just a thought....:nuke:

not a bad idea, never thought of that. Might have to look into that more when I get closer to SOA time

I have a 95 yj and it did not come with 297's. I think that the ones with ABR brakes had them but not all 95's did. If your front is locked you can steer it fine in 2 wheel drive but you will have drive shaft vibration. But the steering is unefected. Now if you cna put on a set of hubs then you will be ok.
But either way I would get rid of the vacuum disconect and just through in a pair of TJ hubs.
What I did before I got my warn hubs is I used to just unhook the front drive shaft then you don't get vibration. It is a hassle but I drive my jeep 40 miles a day to work and I only get to wheel about every other weekend. You can get to where you can hook up the shaft pretty quick. :cool:

Originally posted by Mudpuppy
I have a 95 yj and it did not come with 297's. I think that the ones with ABR brakes had them but not all 95's did. If your front is locked you can steer it fine in 2 wheel drive but you will have drive shaft vibration. But the steering is unefected. Now if you cna put on a set of hubs then you will be ok.
But either way I would get rid of the vacuum disconect and just through in a pair of TJ hubs.
What I did before I got my warn hubs is I used to just unhook the front drive shaft then you don't get vibration. It is a hassle but I drive my jeep 40 miles a day to work and I only get to wheel about every other weekend. You can get to where you can hook up the shaft pretty quick. :cool: You could have also put a cv driveshaft in the front too. If you put tj shafts in you will have to put in a cv or you will get vibrations. Be there done that.

I'm already locked front and rear, vibes up front aren't bad, usually not noticable unless the u-joint is really worn. But yea I plan on putting a CV on it anyway, probably when I SOA since I'll need have it rebuilt anyway