Hey all. I saw Adams post about a Toy box in a series and thought I'd show you how I did mine. It was done in one long day after all the pieces were on hand.

Series steering shaft with the worm gear cut off, turned down and sleeved to 3/4" to fit Borgeson U-joint.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/1.jpg

Column back together with a bronze bushing at the base and a C-clip to hold tension on the top spring. The U-joint is welded to the end of the shaft.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/3.jpg

Another of the base of the column. It would have saved some time to use a Defender steering column.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/4.jpg

Holes through frame for steering box plate. The larger holes will give room for the bolt heads that have to live in the inside of the reinfocement plate.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/6.jpg

3M 8115 panel bonding adhesive to help hold the plate and seal out water. Not really necessary with the bolts but I figured it couldn't hurt.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/7.jpg

1/4" steel plate bolted and glued in place. There is a third bolt you can't see behind the brake hose that goes through the frame and another 1/4" plate on the inside. The two studs are just bolts welded to the backside of the plate. The other two holes go through both sides of the frame and the second plate.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/8.jpg

The box, column and shaft in place with Borgeson U-joints on either end.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/5.jpg

Another view of the box with the lines and pump in place. For those of you that don't know, I run a Mercedes 2.4L diesel and used the Benz power steering pump.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/9.jpg

A view of the tie-rods. I used 1" OD/.188 wall steel pipe tapped to 11/16-16 to accept Ranger Rover/Disco I ends. The left-hand tap was a bit difficult to source, but not impossibe.
http://www.roxs.us/steering/11.jpg



I just did this a couple weeks ago so if you need any help or have any questions, It's still fresh in my feeble little mind.

jim

looks like a nice job- whats your box out of? i ask because mine is different, my pitman arm points backwards and has 3 mounting bolts. from a 1988 4wd pickup.

It's out of a mid-80's Land Cruiser. Lots of 'em around and cheap. I payed $100 for mine at a local junkyard.

You're going to have a tough time making a rear-facing pitman arm box fit and work properly...How are you going to do it?

i have seen a few rear facing arm boxes, the left front wing needs to be modifed and the top of the box sits on top of the framerail behind the bumper and in front of the breakfast.

i paid $75 for my box with steering shaft at a yard;)

What happened to the rack and pinion setup?

:shaking:

The box you used is from a FJ60, built 81-87. I would have welded the plate to the frame to spread the load over the whole frame rail, not just seven bolts. 7018 beats adhesive anyday.

It's a galvy frame and I wasn't too thrilled about welding to it.
3-3/8" #8 bolts and 2-7/16" #8 bolts go all the way through the frame and a second 1/4" plate on the inside. The 8115 is an automotive panel bonding adhesive that I use to adhere roofs, quarters, rear body panels and rockers on cars, it passes MVSS 301 and over a broad area is stronger than spotwelds. If you can get that box to move you're a better man than me. :flipoff2:

jim