94+ 3/4 - 1 ton fornt axles have those daned unit bearings... well what i would like to find out here is, the 32sp stub shaft bolt's into the hub, does the nut have to be on to keep the bearing's tight or is it just to hold the stub shaft inside the hub?

u just assembled my 60 this morning and the wheels are leaning 3-4 degrees out, it's got under 40k on it! i had to cut the nut's off the stub shaft's when i took it apart....

as far as i know the nut is there just to hold the stub shaft.

Originally posted by TR
as far as i know the nut is there just to hold the stub shaft.


kinda what i figured... but i don't really want to buy new unit bearing's so i'm pulling for invisible strings here...

did you remove the knuckle? it might just need a alignment.

Originally posted by TR
did you remove the knuckle? it might just need a alignment.


oh no, with the tire off the ground it moves 3+ inches side to side it's definatly the wheel bearings...

the alignment deal's are wrong i know that, they're just one the local tire shop gave me to get it rolling...

On Dana 30 and 44's unit bearings the nut is on there to hold the bearings together. I know somebody 1st hand who had one come apart becasue he tried running without the stub shaft. I would assume the 60's are the same way.

ok i was wrong. i didnt know that.

Originally posted by TR
ok i was wrong. i didnt know that.


forcing the stub hard into teh back of the bearing makes it no tighter...

Yes, you need to have the stub shaft bolted on to hold the bearing together.

CJ

Originally posted by CJ Lagos
Yes, you need to have the stub shaft bolted on to hold the bearing together.

CJ



Mmmm lovely, $32 a nut , fucking joyus!

ok well this might be grasping at straws..but last time i was at ok4wd they had parts form a dodge 60 laying all about the shop,,, looking like they were going no where,,, if u want i will check with them on monday and see if they will sell the stubs and such if your interested,, or u could call 908-454-6973 ask for harold... or just pm if u still need some parts...

Originally posted by OTTERGONEJPN
ok well this might be grasping at straws..but last time i was at ok4wd they had parts form a dodge 60 laying all about the shop,,, looking like they were going no where,,, if u want i will check with them on monday and see if they will sell the stubs and such if your interested,, or u could call 908-454-6973 ask for harold... or just pm if u still need some parts...


i'll keep this in mind :D i'm going to try a few local nut/bolt places to see if i can get a nylock or something that's that fine threaded rather than the over priced POS the dealer sells

Why not try a Dana/Spicer dealer for the stub nut? That is where I got mine from I think I paid $8. And to prevent having to cut them off I use a gold or silver anti-sieze on them. You have to torque to 175 ftlbs on the Spindle nut and 125 on the hub bearing nuts.

Originally posted by DSI




Mmmm lovely, $32 a nut , fucking joyus!

have you priced the bearing...I would be jumping for joy if $32 was gonna fix it...:D

Originally posted by Supergper


have you priced the bearing...I would be jumping for joy if $32 was gonna fix it...:D


yea priced em friday just for shit's and giggles.... $224ea

The stealerships here give a one year warrenty on them. I go threw them about every 8 months or so. Sometimes sooner :mad:

Damn, $32 for the nut? On my last Dodge 2500, I had to replace one of the stub shafts because someone had stripped the threads where that nut goes on, I was doing a brake job and found out I had to get a new stub shaft, etc...what a pain.

Go over to the turbo diesel register and search for places to get the stubshaft, I found a place that got it and the nut to me cheap(I think around $100 for both).

CJ

If you end up needing new unit bearings, I just got the sale flyer from these guys [URL=http://www.stempf.com/index.htm[/URL], I dont know if they sell retail, but they had the dodge unit bearings and ball joints on sale pretty cheap, I can get more info at work on Monday if you want.

well i found the stub's for 35ea, so that's not a problem, i was going to replace them anyhow since i had new inner's made just so i had all fresh shafts...

Originally posted by DSI




Mmmm lovely, $32 a nut , fucking joyus!

I know you've paid more than $32 for a nut before. I've seen you in person. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by pmurf1


I know you've paid more than $32 for a nut before. I've seen you in person. :flipoff2: :flipoff2:


at least it was with a woman.... PAT! :flipoff2:

Also, as a side note, from what I was told at an axle shop, the knucle outs from an f-350 bolt right onto a dodge dana 60 front, right down to the tie rod (and yes I did see it in person, It was quite wierd when I pulled up and there was an almost bone stock 94 cummins ram with locking hubs). Something to keep in mind.

Garrett

Hey, call the guys at lightruck.com (yes, only one "T") and tell them you want the PavementSucks.com price (acct #106025) and you should get 15-20% off retail. Pricier than the JY or used, but ususally cheaper than a local parts place and the stealership.

They can get axle shafts, axles, gears, bearings, universals, tranny and t-case parts.

I get nothing from these guys, but they said I could share my account #.

Originally posted by Hick
Also, as a side note, from what I was told at an axle shop, the knucle outs from an f-350 bolt right onto a dodge dana 60 front, right down to the tie rod (and yes I did see it in person, It was quite wierd when I pulled up and there was an almost bone stock 94 cummins ram with locking hubs). Something to keep in mind.

Garrett

I was thinking about doing that but the ford super duty bolt pattern is different.

Originally posted by GOAT1


I was thinking about doing that but the ford super duty bolt pattern is different.

that would be a ford dana 50.. I am talking about the older pre-super duty dana 60 fronts, although, I wouldnt be suprised if the dana 50 would bolt up too.

Garrett

Originally posted by Hick


that would be a ford dana 50.. I am talking about the older pre-super duty dana 60 fronts, although, I wouldnt be suprised if the dana 50 would bolt up too.

Garrett

Yeah, that makes more sense, I wasn't thinking about those.

Anyone know if the F-250 TTB stuff would work? I would think it would be a lot cheaper that the F-350 stuff (used, anyway).

BTW :flipoff: Dodge for putting this POS front end in my truck. :D

Pete

Originally posted by pcorssmit
Anyone know if the F-250 TTB stuff would work? I would think it would be a lot cheaper that the F-350 stuff (used, anyway).

BTW :flipoff: Dodge for putting this POS front end in my truck. :D

Pete


TTB 50 = NO!

the spindles out are interchangable, but the knuckle itself is different, sorry


BTW i started calling dealer's in a 50 mile radius, and found the nut's for 12 ea :D

I think dodge may have been appealing to people like me, I like the cad quite a bit in my daily driver :flipoff2:

Garrett

well i pick the 2 castle nut's up tomorrow, and teh guy was even nice enough to lower the price to $9 ea ;)

now, i wonder how much damage could be caused by running this thing about a 1/4 mile without the nut's in place....


any ideas??? the wheels move honestly 2 or so inches at the top of a 38in tire when wiggling them, and they were loose when i wiggled them before i put tires on, so i din't think it's gotten worse...

go for it!

I'm sure a unit bearing that's held together with nothing more than a friction fit will hold up just fine with 38s hanging off of them :rolleyes:

at the least, your hubs will come apart, snap the caliper mount off the knuckle, fuck your rotors up, slice up your tires and fuck up whatever sheetmetal is around them, ad well as possibly killing yourself and some of those around you.

Dunno about damage. Email JasonB, he knows all about those axles ;)

Garrett

Originally posted by CheapXJ
go for it!

I'm sure a unit bearing that's held together with nothing more than a friction fit will hold up just fine with 38s hanging off of them :rolleyes:

at the least, your hubs will come apart, snap the caliper mount off the knuckle, fuck your rotors up, slice up your tires and fuck up whatever sheetmetal is around them, ad well as possibly killing yourself and some of those around you.


ok dipshit... i guess the part about this being in my buggy slipped by you, along with teh part about it not being drive but out of the garage onto a trailer and into my garage??

and i agree with camo, your sig is acurate :flipoff2:

got the nut's today, had to buy a 1 11/16 socket to install them, but it was worth it, they're now tight and appear to have no damage :D


thanks everyone for the insight :beer:

Originally posted by DSI



ok dipshit... i guess the part about this being in my buggy slipped by you, along with teh part about it not being drive but out of the garage onto a trailer and into my garage??

and i agree with camo, your sig is acurate :flipoff2:

I'm the dipshit, and you're the one running a unit bearing 60 in a buggy :confused:















but I still wouldn't trust it to hold up sitting on the ground, let alone on a moving trailer. :flipoff2:

Edit: nevermind I was wrong lol found it out myself.

dynatrac makes a decent kit to retrofit thos axles to locking hubs, 35 spline, ditch the CAD, etc... but it's kinda pricy.

Originally posted by CheapXJ


I'm the dipshit, and you're the one running a unit bearing 60 in a buggy :confused:




Hmmmmm $75 for a complete front 60 with under 40k on it?? it's worth it...