9" Question-setting preload/torque when switching yokes

[4byford]

I am installing new 3rd member into 9"; someone had helped himself to the yoke so I must now reinstall one. Am concerned with torque spec for the pinion nut- How do I properly install without destroying crush sleeve or screwing up preload? This is a daily driver so I need reliability- and I need it back on the road!
Any help would be much appreciated-
TIA

[Alpo]

Done right you must replace the crush sleeve. this is how Ford set preload. By torqueing the nut you set nut torque and pre-load all at once.


Eric

[welndmn]

Ehh, i reuse crush sleaves sometimes, the right way IMO would be to get a Solid spacer and loose the whole crush sleave.
But you need to remove the pinion support (5 bolts) then install the new yoke, off the top of my head, set it to 10in/lbs of rolling torque

[Brick Wall]

If any water/dirt got in when the yoke was pulled then you should remove the 5 bolts, take the pinion support off and lube/replace bearings as required, clean up shims and support and put gasket maker on the case to get a good no-leak seal. If not then all you have to do is remove the oil seal and the yoke washer, outer pinion seal and crush sleeve will fall out in your hands.

Technically you dont need to replace the crush seal if you are reusing the same ring gear, pinion and outer and inner bearings.

Here's how I did mine: Grab your breaker bar (dont use an impact if reusing crush sleeve, once a sleeve is crushed too far there is no other way but to get a new sleeve and start all over) and start torquing the new pinion nut on. With your other hand keep pulling and pushing on the yoke as you tighten it until there is no more free play (cant move the yoke in or out). Now tighten the nut in very small increments like 1/16 or an 1/8 of a revolution. After each increment use your in/lbs torque wrench and try to turn the yoke with it. Repeat above procedure until torque specs are met.

Pinion bearing torque is 6-7in/lbs for used and 13-15in/lbs for new bearings. Set yours somewhere inbetween and call it good.

This is how this n00b set his up. Feel free to critique on how or why my technique may be wrong.

[4byford]

Appreciate the info- Nothing has gotten into the housing, so I am in good shape there.
Brick Wall, I think I will take my chances and go with your technique. I don't really want to pull the pinion support if I can avoid it. I will shoot for 9-10 in/lbs and see how that works.
Now, to find an inch lb torque wrench....

Thanks again!

[pacopico]

Originally posted by 4byford

Now, to find an inch lb torque wrench....

Thanks again!

Remember...you need a dial-indicator or beam type...not a click type to check pre-load.

[desteurm]

Why even bother with the inch pound torque wrench, the sleeves are engineered that once a certain amount of torque is applied to the nut then it is done.

Remove the pinion housing from the 3rd member, slide on a new crush sleeve then your yoke and stick the yoke in a big vice. Get a 250 lb-ft torque wrench and take the nut to 175 lb-ft. It will be right!

[Hobe]

Originally posted by desteurm
Why even bother with the inch pound torque wrench, the sleeves are engineered that once a certain amount of torque is applied to the nut then it is done.

Remove the pinion housing from the 3rd member, slide on a new crush sleeve then your yoke and stick the yoke in a big vice. Get a 250 lb-ft torque wrench and take the nut to 175 lb-ft. It will be right!

This is an assumption that may be correct most of the time but not always. As cheap as a torque wrench is why would you not do it right instead of hoping you did it right.

And yes I have done the setup before and mine required a little greater than the 175 lb-ft to get the preload spec'ed with my ring and pinion setup. I'm glad I went ahead and used the torque wrench.

[78bronco460]

I use my fish scale. I measure 12" from the center of the socket on my torque wrench and mark the handle with a piece of tape. Pull on the handle with the fish scale and each lb. on the scale is a foot-lb. excellent for checking preload.

[1 tuff truck]

IN POUND TOURQE WRENCH WAY TO GO. IF PRELOAD'S NOT RIGHT THEN WON'T WORK. I INSTALLED NEW SEAL AND TORQUED IT DOWN TO 175FTLB MY RING AND PINION WAS HOWLING WITHIN 3000 MILES.

[dittohead]

Just run a solid spacer with shims like a dana axle. That is what i have and it is way better because if (when) you hit the ds yoke on a rock, you will probably lose your pinion bearing preload, which in turn, wipes out your R+P, over time:eek:

[Scot]

Originally posted by welndmn
Ehh, i reuse crush sleaves sometimes, the right way IMO would be to get a Solid spacer and loose the whole crush sleave.
But you need to remove the pinion support (5 bolts) then install the new yoke, off the top of my head, set it to 10in/lbs of rolling torque

What is the correct procedure to set up a solid sleeve? Mine from Summit came with an assortment of thin shims, one thick one and the main section. I put the thick one in and the main section, tightened it all up and it seems to be in spec. It can't be that easy, can it?